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BenjaminSelby

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Everything posted by BenjaminSelby

  1. Interesting point - I didn't know about that, but of course it makes perfect sense. Thanks. Thanks for the info Wayne - I've actually already emailed you because I'm looking for something firm to use to create the forge floor, and was wondering if you shipped to Australia.
  2. Thanks for the reply Don. Do you have any support to keep them upright? Like angle iron sliding channels? Or do they just stand in front of the forge on their ends? Yeah, I thought about that too. Maybe that's the best option. More versatile...
  3. Hi everyone. I'm sure everyone's sick of the 'first propane forge build pls halp' posts which you must get all the time here, so I apologise for adding another one. I've read a lot of the previous posts, but I have a couple of specific questions and I'd be hugely appreciative of any input. 1 - Soft Fire Brick Doors As you will see from the attached image, my forge is a metal cylinder lined with ceramic wool. I haven't coated the wool yet, and I'm still not sure how to strengthen the floor. Anyway - I want to use soft fire bricks for the front and back doors, but what I'm wondering is: do they need some kind of support (e.g. angle iron sliders) to hold them in place, or should they just stand free? I see some people have fashioned supports for brick doors, and some just stand the bricks up on the table. It seems to me that supports would be a good idea to prevent the doors knocking over. 2 - Work rest This actually relates to point (1) - I was thinking of making a work rest for long stock by running a square piece under the front of the forge (see image), but this gets in the way of the doors (which probably doesn't matter too much as it's just a 15mm gap). But maybe if I make a sliding support out of angle iron for the bricks they can slide over the top of the work rest..? Or am I over-thinking it..? What do you guys think? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
  4. Well, I considered a lot of the options presented here. Thanks very much to everyone for your input. I took a needle file to it and after over an hour of solid filing, I enlarged the keyway enough that the wheel now fits on the motor drive shaft. I had to tap the wheel a few times with a mallet to get it to seat on the shaft fully (not looking forward to the struggle if I ever need to get it off again...) It seems pretty sturdy and doesn't look like it will wobble/vibrate. I realise that my filing job is dodgy as hell but it seems ok for now. Edit: I definitely considered the idea of making a broach, but I figured it would be a lot of work for something I'm probably only going to use once. It would have been an interesting experiment, though.
  5. Oh, ha ha ha - no way! No, I was initially intending to enlarge only the keyway on the drive wheel. I never considered reducing the size of the key itself on the motor. I figured it was a permanent part of the motor/drive shaft assembly. But some members here suggested that the key on the shaft could be filed down to fit the smaller keyway on the drive wheel, so now I'm thinking that might be an option (although to be honest I'd still prefer to alter the drive wheel itself because it's non-standard as it currently is).
  6. I find this idea really interesting. I might be able to get some 6mm tool steel and make a broach, perhaps... I just assumed that broaches etc would need to be really precisely machined and that a massive press would be required.
  7. Thanks for the input. I thought about this, but figured maybe this would permanently alter the drive shaft of the motor so I could never use it with any other drive wheel... Or am I wrong here? I didn't realise that I might be able to remove the key from the drive shaft. If so then you're right, that might be the simplest solution.
  8. Fantastic. Thanks for the advice guys. Just measured it and realised I'll have to deepen the keyway too... It's about 2.2mm deep and I need 3mm for the key on my motor. I'll file it carefully and hope for the best. My main worry was that an imperfect fit would result in vibration.
  9. Hi everyone. This is my first post. I'm just starting out in knife making, and so I'm collecting materials to build my first 4x72 belt grinder. I bought a set of wheels on eBay. Unfortunately, the seller didn't provide me with the product we both agreed to: I asked for a drive wheel with a 6mm keyway, and the seller provided me with one that is around 4.76mm wide (see pic). I opened a dispute on eBay and received a refund. eBay support were great throughout it all. I would have been happy if the seller had offered a partial refund, or if he had just sent me the correct size wheel, but he was uncooperative and rude... At least eBay themselves saw the problem and stepped in. Anyway - could any experts please tell me: is it possible for me to enlarge this keyway to the correct size, using only the basic tools I already have? I mean, I have files, dremel, etc. I actually have a small press, but not something huge like you guys probably have in your shops, so I'm not sure if I could broach it successfully. Obviously, the solution would appear to be to take a small file and just file it out, but I'm worried that the result won't be very accurate. Will that matter? Or will it still work OK? I'd greatly appreciate anyone's input here. Thanks very much.
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