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Everything posted by Lamey

  1. thanks guys, it was fun to make, and headed way down Southeast.... near Miami.
  2. thanks, Kenon the plunge lines are just ground on the flat platten, right at the forged bevel at the edge/choil.
  3. Always hear talk and see photos of the "Southwest" Bowie, but sure dont hear much mention of the "Southeast" or more commonly called "Southern" Bowie. The differences in my view and experience are in the "Southern" Bowie having a fairly straight back or spine, shorter clip, and lower tip. The "Southwest" In my view generally has some upward arch to the spine, and a longer higher tip. I know they are just "names" and share more characteristics then they differ, but I do like to respect those distinctions between the 2. A few quick pics of the "SOUTHEAST" Bowie I finished today
  4. Thanks guys, toxonic i know the exact issue you are referring and I had the same thing... just took a little while and carefully blended it all in. Ive seen guys use several methods, one was a half round file, they just cut the transition by hand (I do believe this was Nick Wheeler.... leave it to Nick to do it the "perfect" way). Ive seen one or 2 just roll the edge of there belt over the edge of the platten and grind the transition contour that way.... seems a bit tricky to me but i may experiment with that. Some use the cool little Integral grinders like Uncle Al sells, it
  5. thanks guys, it was definitely fun to make, and will be making more.
  6. This is the first "finished" integral ive made, ive forged several, but never gotten around to finishing one until now. This blade was actually forged over a year ago, just havent made the time to finish. Any how, forged from a bar of 5/8" W-2, 7" blade, 11-7/8" overall, Ceylon Ebony handle. Fun to make, going to be doing more of them. Learned a bit making this one, the hardest part for me was figuring out a good way to grind them, specifically transitioning from the bar to the blade... tricky. A few pics-
  7. I really like it, and it looks like it would sure be a cutter.
  8. Been a while since ive posted, trying to play catch up and dont have much time for the computer nowadays. Forged 1095 & Stag Bowie, overall length is 15-1/4", blade is 10-1/4" x 1-7/8", .260 thick at spine. Guard/pin/butt cap are stainless. Thanks!
  9. I was only there Friday aternoon/evening, had some stuff come up that occupied my Sat/Sun. The knife cut good, but i didnt do my part....my "aim" was just a bit off!
  10. Lamey

    Jungle Honey

    hi Mat, your right the blade on this one is 16-1/2", 32" overall. Will be shipping to its new owner on monday, have 3 more to finish.
  11. thanks all, Jerry call next time your in town and we can visit in the shop.
  12. Kind of an "old school" chopper for me, no fancy curves, no fancy handles, just a very basic, very sharp cutting tool. Forged from 1-1/2" x 1/4" 1095, blade is 10 x 2, overall 15". So if you have pics of what your brining, feel free to show um here.
  13. Lamey

    Jungle Honey

    not sure about the weight, dont have an accurate way to measure. I can say that it feels very lively in the hand, substantial without being "heavy".
  14. Lamey

    Jungle Honey

    thanks all, they are a fun to make, a bit challenging on the heat treat, but still fun. Sam, no turks head, ive not yet mastered them (not a 4 strand anyway, and thats what this one would need). I am doing a Tsuba on one im building now. Some folks expressed concern over hands slipping on the handle, the way these are wrapped, and the shape of the tang (larger toward the edge), your hands wont slip, even if wet. I believe you would leave some skin behind before you actually slipped on the cord wrap. Will be posting a similar piece im working on in a week or so.
  15. HI all, a few quickie shots of a Jungle Honey i just finished up. For those that dont know this is a Jimmy Fikes design, so for that he deserves all credit. This one was forged from 1095, .200 stock, didnt want to make it too light so it was minimally ground... just enough to remove major hammer marks. These pics arent the best, dont show the hamon well, had to get them between rain clouds. The hamon has alot more activity then visible in these pics, will get better pics of hamon if possible. Overall length is 32", blade is 16" x 2.5". Still have to do a bit of polish and fi
  16. Fellas, this is the best working Walnut ive ever used. Its much denser/harder than the other Walnut ive used in the past. Works about like good hard Curly Maple, great handle material.... pretty and tough! Here is a pic of a Bowie handle i just finished using some of Dons Walnut, still needs a few coats of oil/wax but will give you the idea-
  17. Hi Chris, went back and edited post, located in Jasper, AL.
  18. Located in Jasper, AL. Have a new condition Nimba Centurion, only used 1 time for about 30 minutes, no better rebound for this size of anvil (or at least in my experience). This is an older one, about 5 years old, made by and dressed by Russell Jaqua. Asking $1200 (Cost on a new one is over $1600), prefer pick up only or can deliver within reasonable distance. Trying to fund other shop equipment, feel free to email or call for further info, thanks, Matt 901-288-9172. Actual pics will be posted early this week (monday night). Here is the info. from the Nimba web site- The Centur
  19. yep the hammer is gone, its set up and running in a very worthy shop! I found a 100 lb. Bradley Compact that takes up about 1/2 the room. Thanks for all the interest and inquiries.
  20. Just finished another that has been on the bench for way too long. Forged from W-2 round bar, Macassar Ebony handle (still have to put a few coats of wax on the wood), SS guard. Blade is 10-1/4" long x 2-1/4" wide, overall length is 16". Has a nice long handle to drop back and really get some speed/power in your cut. .260 thick at ricasso with alot of distill taper, handles light & lively with enough width and weight up forward to still cut like it should. Any how, here are a few pics,
  21. Don those are my favorite 2 that youve done, really nice.
  22. Lamey

    Aldo's 1095

    thanks all. heat was 1475+/-, with about 5 minutes soak, the next one I do will have less soak and a bit heavier coating of clay.
  23. Here is a big Cutter i just finished up from some of the 1095 Aldo is sellling. First off the steel is very clean, very little to no surface scaling, nice edges, no gouges/dings/scrapes etc. It forges very nicely under the hammer and is thick enough (3/8") to really get some drastic shape and width without sacraficing thickness. This particular blade is about 10.5" long x 2-3/8" wide. You could easily forge this stock down to 2.5". This steel has very good possibilities for drastic hamons, as any good 1095 should. These photos dont really show it but there is alot of activity in there.
  24. my guess is between 4500 and 4700. The 100 lb. version of the same hammer wieghs 4400, and they pretty much share the same frame.
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