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Brandon Bearden

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    https://rabbitholejunkies.com/

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  1. Awesome, I love it. Great work. Also, good to know you used elm, I just grabbed a bunch from my neighbor who cut some down and I have re-sawn it on the bandsaw, it will be ready by end end of the summer as hot as it gets in the garage. I was not sure how it would work for a handle. I really like your handle and leather work. I also like the single well placed pin. Thank you for sharing.
  2. The purpleheart handle is the 3rd, a take on a Japanese chefs knife. The cocobolo handle is intentionally rough and heavy, not sure what a good use for it would be, just playing around. Both are made from 1084 and were freehand stock removal. I have two more that are almost done, my first attempts at forging - not nearly has pretty, but functional I am happy with them, I am starting to understand how to cut in lines on the grinder. I only have a porter cable 4x36" benchtop with the 8" wheel and a harbor freight 1x30 right now. Working on building a 2x72. It is fun to dink aro
  3. Thank you both, yes, I see lots of plans out there, but I like the design of the OBM the best and want to try, to the best of my ability, to recreate it. I can guess on many of the dimensions with a belt in hand, yes, but having a starting point would be best. I am sure the ergonomics of their chassis has gone through some iterations.
  4. So, I don't have the cash to throw down 800 on the body of the origin blade maker 2x72, so I am going to order many of the parts from them, like wheels and such and try to build my own. However, I need some raw dimensions. I need to know how long the arm is and where the pivot point is and how then how deep from that pivot point to the front and then how tall from the table to the pivot point. From there, I should be able to figure out the rest. I am looking at the one that tilts 90 degrees. If anyone has one and would be willing to share those dimensions, I would be ever grateful.
  5. Thank you for the comments. Yeah, I mixed up too much epoxy and just said, whatever :) I was thinking 1084 steel. I have some s30v, but I know I would need to send that off.
  6. So, yes, I was envisioning something that would stay inside the forge at all times, like drilled through and permanently mounted. I did read some of those posts before posting. No one seems to be talking about the environments the probes are designed to tolerate much. This is a very important aspect of selection. Type K probes are not supposed to be used in reducing atmospheres. I was planning on using an Arduino, which I already have many of, and an Adafruit MAX31856 ($20) to read the temp and then output on an LCD screen or segmented display, which I also have. I would have to do some modifi
  7. I just wanted to see if I could do this thing before going down the rabbit hole. After this, I was hooked and bought a forge and welder. I have a cutting torch, grinder, belt sanders and other tools for my other hobbies. I sure went off the deep end from this one success. I look forward to many more to come. I as so worried I was going to fail that I just used a piece of low carbon weld steel from the hardware store. The handle is purple heart and apricot from a branch that fell nearby. I wish I would have used better steel... oh well. Next time.
  8. TLDR My question is: which thermocouple type should I get and which sheath material should I choose? Does anyone have any specific recommendations? The use case is accurate temps during forging and initial heat treats. I tend to over complicate and/or over build. I have a 2 burner Mighty Forge. The blacksmith shop I purchased it from said they have measured it at our elevation at 10psi at 2600° - So, it gets way hotter if needed. I want to be able to get it this hot and maybe hotter without worrying about burning up my probe. Background I have been poking a
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