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john kleemann

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  1. Thanks for the help guys. My drill press is on it's lowest speed which is I think 520rpm, I've been using lube, my pressure might be off ,my bits are sharp until they're not. I think I should try to normalize again now that I have some anti scale compound. I'll start with a new bit also. Does anyone have a bit sharpener they like? I've been looking at the tormek but don't really want to spend that much. But, buying new bits is pretty spendy for the cobalt. Anyone using a press and punch setup? Thaks again
  2. I've been using spacers that are bright or iridescent. Gives a nice look and contrast without being too bright. I haven't had a chance to need to find one in the grass yet but I'm sure I will. I like the 6" hunter!!
  3. Good morning Chase, here are some pics of the Ameribrade grinder with the 20+ yr old motor. I know you said you don't think the tilting base would be useful, I thought the same thing until I started grinding profiles in the handle. It's nice to have a different plane so you're not bending over looking at it from the side, I can stand straight up and grind finger grooves. I would recommend it. Have fun, John
  4. Hi Folks, I forged out a couple more knives and was shaping and drilling but I'm having issues with the drill bit overheating. Would it be wise to normalize it after grinding, but before drilling? Or do I need to get a drill bit sharpening system? Any advice on that also would be greatly appreciated. I'm using cobalt bits and oil to cool the bit.
  5. I just started forging this year. I have been researching parts to put my shop together. The grinder I chose was an" Amribrade fastback" chassis. I didn't want to have to fab this. I had enough to do putting the rest of the shop together. I had an old pressure washer with a 1 1/2 hp Baldor motor(enclosed, single speed, 110v). As others have said you can't put a VFD on this motor. I chose a 4" drive wheel. It's slower, but , I feel it still eats metal for lunch. My thought was to get a 7" drive wheel and swap it if I felt like I wanted more speed. I think this might loose some of the power thou
  6. I was going to have surgery on my back for a bulged disc. My chiropractor told me 20 min. of heat and follow with 2 min. of ice, repeat as many times as you can handle. This manually pumps blood through the area helping it to heal naturally. This worked for me and did not have to go through surgery. That was over 20 years ago. He also told me to go to Hawaii for a month. Hope this helps. Forge on
  7. Thanks. Just having fun with the different materials available. I traded the fat little Bowie to a friend who is an avid hunter and owns a metal shop. He was smitten with it when I showed him the finished product and he was able to hold it and feel it. That made me feel like I'm on the right track. forge on, John
  8. That's awsome Joël, love the attention to detail. I think that's what I like about bladesmithing, they are small enough projects that we can afford to really trick them out. Very nice, thanks for sharing. John
  9. I was just thinking of the oyster knives as gifts for people who aren't necessarily into stabbing and cutting knives. that's an over the top design!! I like it. It'll be years before I'm doing stuff like that.
  10. Actually, the top three are heat treated and tempered, the bottom one still needs some work.
  11. OK. Here is the new pics. Don't know why that happened. My computer can't even read those .heic files.
  12. Hi folks, I got the thermometer for the forge and used it several times now for normalizing and for heat treating. It works great, now I'm not guessing. these all turned out ok for the 1st ones I forged. I'm really enjoying putting scales on and grinding cool shapes with my new Ameribrade sander. Forge On, John 20220521_231531[1].heic 20220521_231654[1].heic 20220520_060207[1].heic
  13. Yeah, I was looking into that also. I should probably get a hardness file test kit so I'm not guessing at that. Thanks for the help. Back to bladesmithing!
  14. I'm using 80crv2. I went to the thread where you guys talk about normalizing, quenching, and tempering and followed the guidelines talked about. I don't have a pyrometer yet but ordered one. After normalizing I brought the blade up to just past magnetic and held it there best I could for about 10min, quenched immediately in parks AAA heated to around 105 f. File testing after cool showed it being soft. tempered it 2x at 375f, still seemed soft. At this point I ground away and realized the crack wasn't going to grind out so I put it in the vise and tested it and it snapped easily. This is when
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