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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Alan Longmire

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About Alan Longmire

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    Johnson City, Tennessee, USA
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    World Domination

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  1. Trouble getting blade hot enough during HT

    You could build your own for half that amount if you have any welding skills. www.hightemptools.com and Wayne Coe here on the forum have everything you need, and that firebrick in that forge is not one of those items. A split (half-thickness) brick let into the floor is good for wear resistance, but takes a lot longer to heat up than just wool and refractory skim coat. Which that forge does not have. Uncoated wool when fired gets really brittle and the fibers break off and float around where you breathe, which over time causes the equivalent of asbestosis/mesothelioma. All you need is a burner (burners threads a plenty here, or buy the $45 kit from hightemptools), a shell of some sort (paint can, propane bottle, mailbox, etc) enough wool to line it (one or two inches, your choice) and a refractory cement topcoat like Satanite, Mizzou, Cast-o-Lite, etc. about 1/4 to 1/2" thick plus a way to mount the burner and some way to block off the openings a bit (thin firebricks on angle iron tracks are good for this) and you're good to go. I'm just talking about the one on eBay, I'm not on facebook to see the other one.
  2. Small craft knife WIP

    Absolutely gorgeous! If I didn't know better I'd think was Japanese, 19th century!
  3. Looking really good! Good to see you around again Petr!
  4. Hunting knife

    I wish I'd started earlier too, I was 28. Twenty years ago. Two things I've learned: 1. Forklift tines are not mild steel. I've heard 4140, 5160, 1045. Excellent anvil steel regardless. 2. 52100 is not a candidate for hamon. WAY too much chromium and manganese, and will through-harden unless edge-only quenched. Then you'll get a hard line, but that's not really hamon.
  5. Toku'ish attempt

    Oh yeah, I may have neglected to mention my power hammer was involved...
  6. Preparing for first smelt.

    What you have there is called Gossan ore. It's the iron cap that used to sit atop a copper sulfide ore body. If it's from the very top of the cap it might be weathered enough to work, but that's doubtful in this case. As Daniel said, copper in any noticeable amount is very bad for home bloomery work. There is a similar ore body in southeastern Tennessee (Google Ducktown, copper basin). The iron cap was found first, around 1818 (it was Cherokee territory at the time). The first inch or so was usable, but the rest was not. After the Cherokee Removal in 1838 (Trail of Tears), further prospecting revealed the copper sulfides. The mines were worked until a couple of years ago, producing copper, silver, gold, and sulfuric acid, but no iron. In your location the alluvial black sand far from the copper mines are your best bet, but only if it's strongly magnetic.
  7. Definitions and history of "Wootz" and such

    Pinned it is! Not the first time it's come up, either. Down in the pinned Bloomers and Buttons, you will find this:
  8. Etching problems

    Hmmm... I've never seen that before. It looks like over-etching, but 30 minutes in vinegar won't do that. What is the complete heating history of this blade? Could be decarb, and/or alloy banding, but I can't really say.
  9. Burner Placement

    More burners means more potential for an oxidizing atmosphere, which is definitely not conducive to welding. A pair of 3/4" T-Rex burners would be able to melt steel in that forge. If your burners are as efficient, act accordingly.
  10. Burner Placement

    That's just an awful lot of burner for the volume.
  11. propane forge issues

    Get the tank refilled. Don't exchange it, exchange cylinders are only filled to 17 pounds. Get a full 20 pounds, it's usually cheaper.
  12. Saint Michael Archangel

    Very nice work, and quite beautiful! Even if the pommel is a tiny bit small.
  13. Pricing Questions

    Not to mention if the sheath is good or not. A high-end sheath maker (they do exist) can charge almost as much as a high-end knifemaker. It's all relative.
  14. Definitions and history of "Wootz" and such

    Some say wootz, because of the banding, will cut better even when supposedly dull. But people say a lot of things. Since it is a crucible product the carbon distribution is even and there are no slag inclusions, unlike bloom steel (Evenstad process possible excepted). Therefore, in the right hands it is theoretically a "better" product. Remember, the west rediscovered crucible steel when Huntsman needed a more uniform spring steel for the chronometer in the 1760s. It was lower carbon and not processed to show the structure, though.
  15. DMT for bevel grinding?

    I was just about to chime in on that! I have no idea if they would work for hand sanding. I have only tried it with the Klingspor blue zirconia and they were less than satisfactoy. And as far as I know Rhinowet is still the golden child, although some people swear by Norton black ice. Black wet or dry lasts longer than Rhinowet for me, but is not as fast nor does it leave a better finitiob.
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