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      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Alan Longmire

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Alan Longmire last won the day on October 11

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About Alan Longmire

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  1. Found it! Last post in this thread: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/31928-my-new-dust-collector/ This is an absolute must as fine dust is fairly explosive. Not to mention the cleaning bill you'll miss when the filter bag doesn't blow up, not causing you to need a fresh pair of pants...
  2. That would work, but will fill up fast. I would use the bucket as a sort of pre-cyclone spark drop. I will see if I can find a picture later.
  3. I like all the later iterations, but two things are bugging me a little. Joel, on your designs it looks like the face of the guard is not square to the blade, it looks likethe edge end is a bit forward, making the line rake backwards, if that makes sense. The other thing on both is I would get rid of any hint of a notch or choil between guard and edge. In my experience that will only catch on things you'd rather be cutting. A ricasso is fine, of course.
  4. Just don't forget the bucket of water between the grinder and the filters! I'd hate to see all that work catch fire from a stray spark.
  5. Very classic. Nice walnut!
  6. Top of the product line of the Columbus Forge and Iron Co. of Columbus, Ohio. They also made Trentons, so there is a lot of similarity. Made from ca. 1895-1930ish, I think. This is just from memory, I'll check the book later unless someone else does first. Score!
  7. If you actually do use superquench for this, borrow a padded suit of armor from the bomb squad. I was being a conservative engineer when I used the term "catastrophic failure." Vern's mention of a hand grenade is more accurate, but not powerful enough. It will explode, and probably take the tank with it. Superquench was designed as an ultrafast quench for low carbon steel to harden it enough for expedient tooling. A medium carbon steel will shatter in it,high carbon will blow apart. Cast iron, or at least cheap gray cast, will most likely pop apart at the quench line with a loud bang, sending shards flying at high velocity. Pouring it on top would result in more and smaller chunks spalling off in random directions. If you absolutely must do it, use warm water and a tripod and pulley with a long chain as a remote dropping device. And have the EMS standing by. In water it probably won't explode, but it probably will fall apart as the iron shrinks while the graphite doesn't. Think of a slow-motion film of hitting cottage cheese with a hammer.
  8. Glad you fixed it!
  9. Don't even try it! It is most likely plain cast iron and cannot be hardened. The most likely outcome of heating and quenching will be catastrophic failure, with a very real possibility of serious injury. Consider it an expensive lesson and find something steel to pound on. There is a pinned thread about anvils here you should read, several good alternatives to "real" anvils are mentioned.
  10. What Doug said. Try it and see, but if it's still too hard to file it's too hard.
  11. No, the foil won't help anything. I temper my hawks with a plumber's propane torch. I know the colors are not reliable, but they help. The steel has to be absolutely clean, any oil or fingerprints throw off the oxide colors. I hold the flame in the middle of the flat of the blade, edge down. I play the flame around to keep the color even, watching carefully. I want a wide band of even color so the entire hardened edge is close to the same temperature, and I take the edge to a full peacock blue as seen under daylight fluorescent tubes. This is around 575 degrees f. If done properly a file should bite fairly easily. On a thrower I do this three times, sanding off the colors in between. The length of time under the torch for a 1/4" thick by 3" wide head is around five or six minutes. Important caveat: my hawks are mild steel with an inserted edge of 1084 that's about an inch wide. The edge only gets hardened. If you use a different steel combo this may not give satisfactory results.
  12. It generally doesn't work that way. See the pinned thread "how to become a bladesmith" down in The Way for the reasons. That said, I assume you have checked out the Upper Midwest Blacksmiths Organization, which has members all over Wisconsin and parts of Illinois and Iowa. http://umba.name/ is the website. I know you specified bladesmith, but learning to forge is part of it. All the skills you pick up for general smithing are of great use when you decide to narrow it down to just blades. Plus those guys have connections for tools, people, classes, and so on. Check 'em out!
  13. Good forging, Sam! Those terminals are hard to keep even. At least for me.
  14. If you're sanding off the oxides after the quench and the steel looks like it has little raised blisters that means you overheated a bit.
  15. If you knew how true that observation is... Chris is among the best humans I know. And the strongest, character-wise. I'm proud to call him a friend and brother.