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      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Alan Longmire

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Alan Longmire last won the day on May 19

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About Alan Longmire

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  1. That would be a great sword in monosteel, the Damascus takes it over the top!
  2. To add to that, it can be difficult to get steel white hot in a venturi burner propane forge if both forge and burner are not well designed and tuned. In my coal forge I have no difficulty getting steel white hot, with sometimes unfortunate results...
  3. Good point, Mark. Parks 50 clearly says room temperature. I just had slower oil on the brain. I just scored some Parks AAA that clearly says 120-140 degrees, since it's a much slower oil. It is for 5160 and O-1, which have a much longer amount of time to get from critical to Ms and still fully harden.
  4. Bring the oil up to around 130 degrees, it makes for a faster quench. Decarb can get pretty deep, and kilns are bad for that because of the oxidizing atmosphere. Anti-scale compound really helps with this. And there is no limit, but every time you do it the decarb gets worse. Thus anti-scale compound again.
  5. Sounds like your client has been reading things they don't understand, or just heard that the S is for shock resistant, which it is. But, it's an air-hardening very tough steel meant for shock as in rock chisels, hammers, and other large blunt objects. It makes a great hot punch or chisel since the tempering range is so high, but I really don't think it will have the flexibility needed for a rapier. Then again I've only ever used it for hot punches and chisels, mostly because the S-7 I have is in the form of alignment pins from an injection molding machine and that's about all you can do with those... Hey, at least he didn't ask you to make it out of CPM S90V!
  6. Mark and Dan are spot on. Your oven is running way hotter than you think it is, and temper color charts are not accurate. Full blue means you got up around 500, unless you left oil on it, which will blue a blade at 350. Which, by the way, is where you should have been. Finally, on the not hardening the second time: How long did it take you to get from the fire to the oil? 1095 MUST go from 1450 to below 900 in under one second. If you miss that window it won't fully harden, with the degree of not hardening depending on the amount of time by which you miss the window. Oh, and I don't think anyone is going to give you grief about using USA-marked Nicholsons. I just scored a pile of worn-out Black Diamonds myself!
  7. Yep, that's pretty rusty! Whatever mark it had is long gone. I lean towards Trenton, unless the underside of the heel shows really strong hammer marks. It's still in better shape than my first anvil.
  8. Yeah, you can reshape the horn. It's just wrought iron anyway. It's the face you have to be careful about removing material from.
  9. Looks around 75lbs or so. It's not a farrier's anvil, just an ordinary American pattern. Hay-Budden, Trenton, or similar. Check the ring and rebound, look for damage (although it looks okay in that bad picture), and it's worth it to you go for it. It's a little steep to me, but then I'm not in the market. If you get it, promise you won't take it anywhere near a machine shop!
  10. Could be a minor alignment issue. Step one is to run a few layers of 1" masking tape around the tracking wheel to give it more crown. If that doesn't fix it, it's time to start futzing around with shims. Hopefully the tape will do it!
  11. Doesn't matter. Apple cider tastes better, but the steel doesn't care.
  12. Longmire should know the name, but darned if I can think of it. looks great whatever you call it!
  13. Well said, Steven.
  14. You're certainly not the first to think of that, but the problem is that you want water first, THEN oil. And that's only for a very very few steels. You want the first part of the quench to happen quickly, then slow it down. The pros use Parks 50 for this, because that's what it does. The cheap use water then oil and risk cracking. Mixing the two as you mention is just asking for trouble in that a water-hardening steel may cool off enough as you're plunging it through the oil that by the time it gets to the water it has not hardened. Or worse, it HAS hardened and the shock of water makes it crack, which is what will happen to most steels.
  15. If you want to have contrast, you have to use Damascus for that. Twisted 1040, once ground flat, will look no different than untwisted 1040.