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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. Make and keep paper and PDF copies of all correspondence. You need to have a paper trail when the bureaucracy comes knocking.
  2. I think so, but I can't promise I'm right!
  3. Go to Stephan's if at all possible. He makes really nice kitchen knives.
  4. I say leave it alone, OR add a very small inlay, not a full buttcap. Just my opinion.
  5. Assuming you're in Atlanta (the name suggests...), get yourself over to the Atlanta History Center and join the Alex Bealer chapter of blacksmiths. They meet at the Tully Smith house. Well, the shop is out front. Watching and participating is the second best way to flatten that learning curve! The fastest and best is to take a few blacksmithing classes. http://alexbealer.org/ Edit: Looks like they now meet all over central Georgia, and you just missed the last meeting. You MUST go to the October meeting, it's at Stephan Fowler's shop. He is an accomplished bladesmith and friend of mine. http://www.alexbealer.org/plug.php?e=events&m=details&id=136
  6. Here is another thread on a homemade forging station: It uses a large chunk of forklift tine, the back or upright part which is parallel-sided rather than the actual fork part which is tapered. These are usually good steel, ready to use as-found, provided you can cut a chunk off of one.
  7. Since it's not going to be nearly as hot as we're used to on forges, I still think your 25mm is enough.
  8. Railroad track "anvils" are common, and for some reason non-smiths seem to think they are worth as much as a real anvil. They aren't.
  9. I was afraid you might have to do that. at least this way it's a guaranteed perfect inlay, though.
  10. If you don't do both faces of each piece it's hard to keep things flat. Easy to get wonky ends, in other words.
  11. Bog oak and copper are a great combination, and your style is always great!
  12. You probably could, but having an air gap will keep the cladding cool enough to touch.
  13. That's the way they work, they are only truly square when open about an inch. It's because of the way they're made, unlike a machinists vise.
  14. Ten points for correctly quoting the council's location of the bypass plans for Arthur Dent's house! And yeah, it's technically whisky, just like a knife from Wal-Mart is technically a knife... it does the job, but without any sense of style or pride in craftsmanship.
  15. At the very least it should be Van Winkle reserve.
  16. Oh, yes indeed! If you ever watch a good pair of HEMA (historical European martial arts) fighters at play, you can see how every part of the sword is a weapon. There was a little of that in this film, but the points of the guard and the pommel itself are often used to poke your opponent in painful locations if you get inside his guard. I was a very bad epee fencer in college, mostly because they wouldn't let me do that sort of thing. Only poking with the point, no slashing, no bludgeoning, one hand only, where's the fun in that?
  17. He checks in here every so often to see what we're up to, he may well see this. Paul, if you're reading, go ahead and join!
  18. That makes my brain hurt. In a good way, but wow, that's some impressive forging!
  19. I would think 25mm should be enough. The outside will still get pretty hot, unless you leave a space between the wool and the cladding.
  20. That could work... and Gerhard, that one isn't as trippy as the original. I don't know what Hunter was smoking in the 1840s, but it seems to have been the good stuff! Here's the original:
  21. I think I'll add it to the end of Geoff's anvil thread in a few days after it's been up long enough for most folks to see it. I have his email and phone as well if you want to ask him about it. Just didn't think it would be nice to post those publicly where any bot can scavenge.
  22. This showed up at my local guild meeting last Sunday, and I thought it was just too cool: The anvil is a 2" x 7" forklift tine and can be mounted skinny side up or flat side up. Note the fuller ground into the end of the skinny side. The vise jaws are not fixed, they can be removed and rotated to offer options like a header, a hardy clamp, two different opening widths, and so on. It has a pair of pivoting racks to hold flux, punches, etc. on the end opposite the vise. Plus it has horizontal hardy holes on both long sides and under the end that can hold bending forks, a cone mandrel, etc. The vise screw is just a length of 1" acme thread rod with a captured nut on one end of the framed. The other end of the screw rests in a little piece of pipe on the moveable jaw, and there is a little piece of brass acting as a wear plate in there (because Paul is just too cool!). The coil spring that opens the jaws is offset to allow up to a meter of length to be run through the vise jaws. And, with the wheel rather than the usual bar handle, the vise opens and closes FAST, and can't whack you in the tender bits like a normal vise handle. Spiffy, huh? All you need is a welder, but a bandsaw helps. Paul is a genius, btw. If you've got a copy of Francis Whitaker's "The Blacksmith's Cookbook," you may remember in the chapter on watering cans for the forge Francis showed a can with the holes up high on the side rather than the usual punctured bottom type that pours water all over everything, thus making a mess. He called it the "Tennessee Valve" after where he saw it. Paul is the guy who made it... Anyway, I thought this was a genius-level invention, perfect for demos and such as it's not too heavy and it can do anything a "normal" anvil and vise setup can do.
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