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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. Looks good! Can't say much about the blade, though, as it is mostly absent from that little clip...
  2. Feathered wolf tooth, interesting... I'm gonna guess it represents the tangled swirls of the duality of light and dark the protagonist(s) are struggling with. Just going out on the obvious limb...and you didn't tell me Petr was involved! He is definitely the guy for mythic-level fittings.
  3. Plato they say, could stick it away, half a crate of whisky ev'ry day...
  4. Be careful with that picral, that's some nasty stuff!
  5. That is indeed what I meant, that handle just looked like it was meant to go into a sort of dovetailed receiver lug on the muzzle, at least until I saw the hole. Now I am even more confused... The engraving and gold damascene work does look Turkish. Odd piece, for sure.
  6. Look at the pinned topics. There may be no dumb questions, but there are lazy ones.
  7. Certainly not the U.S. Civil War, although it looks to be of the period if not earlier. The gilded engravings are interesting (and rather crude), but I too have never seen a bayonet with that full-length dovetail lug mount and no hole for the barrel. Might there have been one on the same side as the lug and it just broke off? Like Geoff said, we are mostly makers rather than collectors, but I hope somebody comes along who can help.
  8. https://www.prittlewellprincelyburial.org/ There's an interactive thingy where you can see some of stuff, but be aware the sword is in pretty nasty shape.
  9. Look what I just found! https://www.mola.org.uk/prittlewell-princely-burial-excavations-priory-crescent-southend-sea-essex-2003 This is the full excavation report. At GBP 35 it isn't cheap, but I'm going to order a copy. 514 pages, 339 illustrations! The little book I mentioned above is maybe 40 pages and 25 illustrations.
  10. More good advice from those better than I am! I do wire or clamp, but the key here is not to incorporate those into the weld. Take them off when it's time to. Thickness is tricky. You already know you can't draw out a twisted bar without losing the tightness of the twist, and that the pattern of a twist changes depending on how deep you grind into it. That is why you sometimes see twists that have been cut down the middle and either used as veneer or just swapped back to back. Thus the thin on-edge welds. 3/8" can work if your twists are much tighter than you want them on the finished blade or if you are comfortable drawing sideways across the billet. And the other trick to getting a good tip weld, besides going straight down, is to use a bottom swage that matches the tip profile. This keeps the sides from bowing out while you weld the very tip, a difficult fix if it happens. Finally, if you don't want a weld line to show on a fishmouth weld, just polish the edge bars after etching, leaving the core alone. Creative de-etching.
  11. I have no answer for a lot of things, and those I either don't answer or just say I have no idea. Usually some else will, though.
  12. I have done both of those, and by far the best aesthetic is the hairpin edge wrapped around a finished-to-size core. To get that long thin tip you need the edge bar to be wider at the bend of the hairpin, otherwise you don't get the length. To make it even more fun, an upset square corner on the tip that is then forged into itself to form a thick V shape works better. As long as you avoid cold shuts. That's sort of how I did the trowels. A fishmouth weld will show up when etched, and it can be a cool effect, but if you don't want that the hairpin is better. The first weld in setting the core is done by driving the point of the core straight down into the bend of the hairpin. Then you get the pleasure of keeping track of those long 1/4" thick edge strips as you weld them sideways the hard way without slipping off to either side. Preparation is key. You can do it, I've seen your stuff. It's actually kind of fun when it works well. The opposite is also true, of course. I have a dwarf-sized PW sword that started out about 38 inches long. It's 24" x 2.5" wide at the moment. One of these years I'll finish it up, as it's still kinda cool. I'll go all Tolkien on its ass... Ric Furrer uses clamps made exactly like a traditional collar joint on decorative work to hold the bars. Works much better (or at least with less probability of failure) than simply wiring them.
  13. Looks good, but I know what you mean about the mass and tapers and such; it's damnably difficult to forge in that nice hyperbolic profile (as seen from the top) a good felling axe has.
  14. This is the "Viking" sword, with new guards and pommel. and this is the Anglo-Saxon. Regrettably I don't have any full-length pics, hopefully someone who was at Fire and Brimstone 2012 does. Here's a closeup of the pattern:
  15. You've been doing your research, Zeb, good on you! Semantics aside, I have had the luck to handle an actual Viking sword alongside an even more rare Anglo-Saxon sword. The Viking had an inlaid inscription and is suspected to be an Ulfbehrt, weighs around 3lbs, and handles like a 2x4. The Anglo-Saxon was full pattern-weld, weighs about 2lbs, and handles like a dream. Roughly the same length, too. The one you made a model of would be in between, retaining enough mass for a hard blow, but nimble enough to be useful against a faster target.
  16. Try it with the dust only, adding big hunks will mess with the bloom. And you need more charcoal. If you were running ore, 25 lbs would need at least 75 lbs of charcoal. And I am going on the assumption the dust is oxidized back to ore. If it isn't you may get cast, or you may just get a mess. So many variables!
  17. Yes indeed. Trenton, made in Columbus, Ohio by the Columbus Forge and Iron Company. The "India" stamp is odd, probably someone testing a stamp or set of stamps they had made. Made in 1906 by the serial number, the other number is the weight, 160 lbs. The W in front of the weight is the anvilsmith, Karl Wright. They used a cast mild steel base forge-welded at the waist to a wrought iron or mild steel (whichever was cheaper at the time) body with a steel faceplate. Good anvils!
  18. It's possible you have surface carburization of the punch slugs and maybe not enough time in the fire to really consolidate them the first go-round? On the subsequent heats to forge it down into your cylinder you'd be losing carbon each heat. All just guesses.
  19. I understand, I just upgraded from an 8 year old S3. Cellphone cameras don't stand much of a chance in a shop environment. Sounds like the blower may be a bit on the big side (which may account for the whopping loss of steel by weight), but at least you didn't get cast iron, so something worked okay. Any noticeable slag? Not much in that mix to form slag, and you don't really need slag for hearth steel making. I don't have experience actually doing a hearth run, I've only done actual smelting and Aristotle runs. I have watched hearth melts, but there was a crowd and alcohol was involved...but your puck sounds like the blob that typically emerges from an Aristotle furnace. Did you lose any bits during initial consolidation? If not, then you did something else right. However, the puck should form below the tuyere. Being in the direct blast will both cause decarburization and make the steel go away. And by feed rate I meant how often did you charge the hearth with fresh steel and charcoal? The method calls for a hearth full of burning charcoal before the first steel enters the fire, and the steel is added bit by bit as the previous parts melt through the hot zone. A sand base to the hearth will protect the steel from decarb and oxidation, I have been told. Hopefully Emiliano or Mark will jump in here, they have an excellent handle on it.
  20. Did you use lump charcoal or briquettes? What kind of furnace? Blower? Feed rate? Without seeing pictures, you're describing what sounds like a wildly variable carbon content with perhaps some dendritic carbide formation (the veins). Yeah, pics would really help. Can you take a phone pic and email it to yourself and post it that way? Or even a plain old phone pic?
  21. That's a nice profile for sure, and postdates pattern-welded blades by a few years, so good call.
  22. Gotta get those twists tighter. Like four to eight lines per inch, if you are aiming for a seax or other early pattern.
  23. It's a tiny book, and the only color photos are of the glass beakers, but it is still interesting.
  24. Steve is in American Samoa, which makes a bit of a difference.
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