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Alan Longmire

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Alan Longmire last won the day on March 23

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About Alan Longmire

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    Male
  • Location
    Johnson City, Tennessee, USA
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    World Domination

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  1. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade kitchen knives?

    So much for the chapter on Japanese kitchen knives in "Knife" by Tim Hayward...
  2. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade kitchen knives?

    They are chisel ground. Flat or ideally slightly concave on one side with a half-height bevel on the other. Like most Japanese blades there is no secondary bevel.
  3. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade kitchen knives?

    You can definitely HT both 1075 and W2 with a pipe in the forge, they're simple steels. As for bringing out hamon, the usual procedure is to sand up to 2000 grit, then gently etch with ferric chloride or hot lemon juice, then gently polish with powdered abrasives in oil. Simichrome/Flitz and Mother's Mag Polish can also be used to clean up the blade above the hamon, but they can also erase it if you're not careful. There is a ton of info about polishing for hamon on the forum, look around.
  4. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade melt (failure?).

    Is there any writing on the blade? The ones I am used to seeing often have "Uddeholm" stamped or etched in them every few feet, and Uddeholm is the maker of 15n20, so it's a pretty good guess that's what they are. And 15n20 is slow to rust.
  5. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade kitchen knives?

    If you go with Aldo, his 1075 and W2 are great for hamon. And sometimes the W2 comes thin enough for easy stock removal. Not sure about spine thickness on a nakiri, sorry.
  6. Alan Longmire

    Finish or Not

    Nice pattern, though. You could try the coffee etch and see what happens. 52100, despite the chrome, etches almost as dark as 1095. For more of "pop" nickel is the stuff, thus the 15n20. You could also cold blue it and sand back the high spots with a hard backing on the paper, your etch looks deep enough to make that work well.
  7. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade melt (failure?).

    That's a hearth melt, not a smelt (since you started with steel and not ore), and that kind of bandsaw blade is more likely to be a 4xxx-series band with HSS teeth. If it's monosteel it's often 1095. The ones that they use 15n20 and L6 for are 9 to 12 inches wide with great big nasty lumbermill teeth. All that said, I think I'd give that a miss next time.
  8. Alan Longmire

    304 / 308 Stainless

    It's pretty much impossible. The 300 series is not hardenable. And yes, for the stainless alloys used in knives you will need an oven to get the best results, or any results with some of them.
  9. Alan Longmire

    Seeking advice

    I believe that to be the case.
  10. Alan Longmire

    Saw blade kitchen knives?

    Do you mean the little ones for like a skilsaw, or the big ones from lumber mills? In either case the steel type is an unknown. I know a guy who bought a 36" blade with the carbide tooth inserts thinking it was L6, because that's what all the junkyard steel guys said it was. He had the whole thing laser cut into bowie knife blanks only to find out it wasn't hardenable. Not L6, in other words. Unless you can get an answer from the manufacturer, all you can do is take a chance and figure out the heat treat process for the one you have. That's all trial and error. Unless you have an XRF gun handy that will tell you the composition. The scrapyards have those now and the operators can be bribed with donuts... Oh, and no steel is unsafe for kitchen use.
  11. Alan Longmire

    Seeking advice

    The methyl acetate is a plastic, which explains a lot. Like why Tru-oil is waterproof...
  12. Alan Longmire

    linseed oil

    I agree with Gerald, except I do use boiled linseed oil without thinning. Personal preference only, it makes no difference in the end. So what is "boiled" linseed oil? Originally it was literally boiled with a little lead carbonate, which is what allows it to dry. Now it has been heated enough to polymerize, and the lead has been replaced with petroleum solvents and cobalt carbonate, AKA Japan dryer. Still poisonous, but not as insidious as lead. If you want to make your own, get a jug of flaxseed oil (guess what: it's raw linseed oil. Linseed = linen seed, linen comes from the flax plant, marketers realized nobody wanted to be drinking what sounded like a wood finish) and some lead. Melt the lead in a reducing atmosphere and hold until it's a reddish powder. You need about a tablespoon for every gallon of oil. Heat the oil until it looks shimmery, add the lead carbonate and stir. Keep it simmering for an hour or so, then pour into an airtight container and let cool. Or just go buy some.
  13. Alan Longmire

    Wrought san mai

    I wouldn't go that far. In fact I would take it to almost sharp to make sure the core steel hardens properly.
  14. Alan Longmire

    Hardening a throwing knife

    I suspect they insisted on hardening on FiF to see if people knew enough to temper way back. The guys who didn't break did just that.
  15. Alan Longmire

    Hardening a throwing knife

    Then you'd just get the edge to crack. You really do not want throwing knives to be hard. They break. Springy ones can also throw themselves back at you on a bad throw. I know, people do it all the time. In my opinion it's just not a great idea.
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