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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. See, I told you I wasn't good at that! Thanks, John.
  2. Well, you only need the bar to hold for a little while. And as I said, I'm not good at it. The guys who are good at it, at least the ones I know personally, tend to have to re-attach the handle a few times during the process of going from a pile of bars to a completed billet. MIG (gas shield, not flux core wire welding) and TIG welds seem to hold better too.
  3. Ah, what's a few years between friends? Way to make a return entrance, sir!
  4. Ah, the 3/4" is spring steel too? Yeah, heat that to at least 400 F along with the rebar. I use 3/32 6013 too, and it seems (the few times I've welded on a handle, I prefer tongs) that if you preheat and run a deep-penetrating bead followed by a pile (technical term) of lower-amp passes to build up a wad (another technical term) of weld bead the handle will stay attached a little longer. They'll usually break eventually, forging is not kind to stick welds. At least not mine.
  5. Only if the flame stays in the burner long enough to burn the paint off, but even then it's not a big danger. More of an annoyance.
  6. Yes, let's. No quibbles about naming conventions, that gets political. Some like it, some don't, leave it alone and move on. Try turning up the amps and preheating the rebar. Rebar has enough carbon to harden when welded cold, which leads to cracked welds. Edit: can you order some 6013? That's my go-to rod for my poor welding skills.
  7. Those are nifty and rarely seen outside Europe. The Breton French had a six foot long version used for morticing ship frames. It had a little socket handle in the middle.
  8. If those dry chips are anything to go by, I suspect green ones will be large and thick just as they should be.
  9. Anyone who makes or works with swords is intimately aware of the harmonics. It's just that the guard simply doesn't enter the equation given its location, be it tightly fitted as as possible or just shimmed enough that the grip core holds it in place. It's a non-issue. As I seem to recall mentioning earlier...
  10. I can't help with the electro-etch, except to say you do have to do it after HT since otherwise you'll sand it off during cleanup. It should work fine on O-1, though. You can indeed hot stamp O-1. Do that before HT, of course.
  11. I knew that's what you were trying to do, but it then became a venting thread, sorry. There aren't as many full-time professional makers hanging out here anymore , compared to say 10 years ago, which is why there haven't been that many answers relevant to your original question. I have seen a hawk commission blow away in the wind, but not being full time AND still having employment I can't really offer much. Marketing will be even more important than ever (and it was extremely important to begin with) as this dies down, but that's not a difficult call to make. That virtual Damasteel show could be good. Just gotta watch bandwidth, my company has had to give up on videoconferencing because everyone in the world is online at the same time now, and it shows.
  12. Sorry, he was a Chinese spammer operating out of a New Jersey server. Deleted with extreme prejudice. And I don't know what happened to the report spam button. But I got him as soon as I was back online.
  13. That, sir, is the point. let's keep it that way.
  14. I vote full-on golden age, oval guard, no hamon, or at least not a high-contrast hamon. That shape and that grip is just too classy!
  15. https://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/products/P-75/500-1-2-75-BURNER-BRACKET.pdf Jock helpfully has these no-weld instructions...
  16. Which is exactly why when someone asks me to critique a design I always point out if the guard drops below the edge. You'll note I didn't say those specific examples are ideal, the older ones we had in the 70s and 80s did not have that built-in guardlet thingy. Those were just the first examples of the blade shapes I found.
  17. My dad was a professional butcher for years, so I got used to the various knives traditionally used for stuff in the western tradition. For steaks and stew meat, most butchers will use the oddly named "butcher knife" that looks like this: but for large steaks the scimitar is preferred: Both of these examples are about ten inches of blade, but scimitars come up to 14 inches of blade. All that said, if I had to choose I'd pick Garry's. That's one pretty knife and it has proven it'll do the job.
  18. I was initially hesitant to let this thread continue, given our no-politics atmosphere that makes this a special place, and we almost went there, but! I am glad to see that you guys are using your heads and keeping a critical eye on things. I went to the store today and was happy to see the panic buying seems to be slowing down a bit. Still no TP, and meat is rationed, but there are potatoes, unlike the first of last week. I suspect that we as knifemakers are a bit smarter than the average person. Something about dealing with potentially deadly stuff on a daily basis tends to weed out the stupid, after all. And as Joshua said, we've known this was coming for years. We didn't know exactly when, or in what form, but we knew there would be a fast-spreading virus coming out of eastern asia (where almost every pandemic in history started) or central Africa that there would initially be no immunity for, and that it would require exactly this type of response. Some people just didn't listen, or chose not to believe it. Hang in there.
  19. It certainly does the job better than my rounded guillotine fuller. And the video was top-notch as always, thanks for that!
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