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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. Well, it's not in the book, but it was apparently made in Missouri, judging by the mark. The body is cast iron or steel. It looks like there might be a steel plate on the face? Does it ring, or does it go thunk? If it goes thunk, is there any rebound? That will tell if it's cast iron, cast steel, or steel-faced cast iron. There are a lot of "no-name" cast anvils around, pretty much every foundry would make a few. Some are great, some are just cast iron doorstops. Can you send better pictures, from all angles, including under the base?
  2. Hey John, could you convert those to .jpg format? A lot of older computers, phones, and websites (like this one!) can't read .heic files, and since the site doesn't, folks have to download them to see them.
  3. You want enough force that the belt twangs like a bass guitar string when you pluck the long bit of it. I use a spring instead of a gas strut, but it's the same idea. It shod be stiff enough that it's hard to compress without leaning on it.
  4. K-tip, huh? Looks like you're getting the steel to go where you want, and that's 3/4 of the battle when forging!
  5. Depends on the blade. I do the name stamp cold. I use a hot stamp of a handprint on axes. The trouble with hot stamping is that if you're not really good (and I'm usually not!) it's easy to grind it out during cleanup. There are ways to compensate, and big stamps usually do better hot. Intricate stamps do better cold.
  6. I got mine from these guys: https://stampyours.com/ Ignore the dust and fingerprints... I should get a new one a little bigger. That one is 6mm long, and is hard to see at actual size. But I wanted it to mark small folders, so there you go. Forgot to add, they were the cheapest quote I found. I had one guy say it wasn't possible to do it under 1/2" long, and quotes ranged from $85 to $350 for the same thing.
  7. Nice indeed! Excellent steel, and you did a great job on the wire inlay.
  8. Dan, was that test perchance via PXRF? A friend of mine has been playing with that on early 19th century things, and the big thing that stands out is that that testing method doesn't do carbon. Not one bit. The other numbers look right, if a little high in copper.
  9. That is a great job for a belt finish! Did you buff at all, or is that just off the belt?
  10. The hub lining is usually cast iron. As for the cultivators, those are usually Bessemer steel, but that rusty bar sure looks wrought.
  11. We've kind of skipped all around the topic, but never had a truly dedicated thread. This one and this one come the closest.
  12. I remember Dick doing that. Very cool project, Matt, always great to see you here.
  13. At that price, it's almost cost effective to smelt your own! Here in the USA, if it is in bar stock or anchor chain it sells for more than as wagon tire for some reason.
  14. That looks more like a dedicated heat treaters oven than a forge, and looks like it would run on the oxidizing end of things, not unlike the old Johnson trench forges used for repointing jackhammer bits. Maybe a glassblower's oven? Geoff has good advice. The solenoid was just to cut the gas if electricity went out, which doesn't make much sense if there's not a forced air source for the thing.
  15. That should slow that rabbit down a bit, assuming he can hit it!
  16. Thanks. I knew it was fibrous and ornery. Looks great here, though, and it is very resistant to splitting and checking.
  17. Nice! How was the elm to carve?
  18. Those are some of the most bizarre axes out there, excellent job! That's some impressive forging.
  19. Family stuff yesterday, literally. Went to the Ridgewood BBQ and was too stuffed to do a darned thing for the rest of the day. I did think about the further inlays, and decided to do a mishmash of styles by the maker John Small, ca. 1809. Had a couple of hours this afternoon, and so I added his knife on the left side. This is gonna look a lot like the last update. First, cut the knife from scrap sterling sheet and anneal it. Add layout blue, make sure the inlay is where it needs to be, and scribe the outline. The blue tape not only complements the layout
  20. That looks like a good balance right now. It should feel like it wants to chop, but be nimble enough to not be point-heavy.
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