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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. Cool. What happens if you hit one with a hammer? If it crumbles, it's just ore or a rust concretion. If it dents, grind a bright spot and see what it looks like etched.
  2. Ted's right, that's a flare fitting, and to use one properly you need a flare tool for copper line. That said, your current regulator and hose should screw right into your needle valve. If said needle valve is what connects the gas line to the burner tube, you're now good to go. Blown burners are great because there's no need for tiny orifices, aligning gas jets, and so on. Just dump gas into the tube and away you go! Most folks just use 1/4" to 1/8" copper refrigeration or brake line with a compression fitting like on a refrigerator icemaker line. You will also want a 1/4-turn
  3. Nice. How many times have you re-created old #1?
  4. I think you'll find with real charcoal you won't have that problem. Briquettes are mostly coal dust, sawdust, and glue, designed to smolder but not flame up. Real charcoal will burn fast and hot, with a lot of flame. Also no fine ash to clog stuff.
  5. What they said. Use real lump charcoal, not briquets, break it up into more-or-less 1-inch cubes, and have at least six inches of it piled in there. Side blast is fine, it's traditional for charcoal as it helps keep from blowing it out of the forge. Another row or two of brick for the sides, and you don't need a cover.
  6. That last chunk looks like cast iron, the other two look like ore, but it's hard to tell from here. 500 years ago the blast furnace was just appearing in Central-west Europe, from Germany down through Austria and into Bohemia and Moravia, with a separate concentration in northern Italy. Finery forges like the hearth furnace you see on this site, but larger, were used to refine the cast into wrought iron and steel. And the bloomeries were still going strong, and the short-stack furnaces of Styria were still making "natural" steel from their carbonate ore.. Do you know anything else abou
  7. For reference, here are my two favorite machetes to use. The shorter one is a U.S. Army-issue by Ontario Knife. Steel is 1095, and it has zero flex. It's just a flat bar a hair thinner than 1/8" with a deep hollow grind edge about 3/8" tall. The longer one is by Tramontina of Brasil, 34" OAL. It is much thinner, unknown steel, again just a flat bar, but with a short scandi edge about 1/4" tall, full spring temper and can bend double without taking a set. I suspect it's the equivalent of 15n20 or 8670. The Ontario Knife one works best on woody brush and trees, the Tramontina is absolute d
  8. Lots of long etches in ferric chloride is the safest. The best is to leave it out in humid salt air for 50-100 years.
  9. It's not really that random, but sort of. Go to this link : https://www.tf.uni-kiel.de/matwis/amat/iss/kap_b/illustr/sb_3_3a.html and scroll down to the second image. And that's a simple sax with an edge welded on.
  10. Yes indeed. There aren't that many metallographic examinations of period swords, but those that exist do all show lap welds along the length as well as butt welds along the width. For twisted rods you'd never know by looking, as the weld line ends up as part of the twist pattern. Some Anglo-Saxon blades in cross-section look like somebody just threw a bunch of random rods together and welded until it got vaguely sword-shaped.
  11. Is that etched? If the line was invisible while you were grinding you're probably good.
  12. Cool! I knew it was an earlier one by the recessed eagle, but not the exact date. They started in the 1850s, and lasted into the 1960s. Guess they weren't doing the weight on the foot in 1879!
  13. I've seen a few attempts at that with half a sheep shear. Your handle is the best I've seen.
  14. I vote dark. Something nice that won't fight with the pattern.
  15. Yep, 40 full rotations for a ten inch bar. It should look like a threaded rod.
  16. Twist patterns and drawing out do not mix. If you look down in the Fiery Beards subforum, the pinned thread "Is your beard still burning" has some good tips starting on page 3 or so. For a Viking pattern, you have to think like a Viking. They were not making massive billets and forging them down, they were making tiny ones and building them up. I like to do multi-bar twist patterns at the finished length, and almost the finished thickness depending on the pattern I'm after. I mean, for a sword-sized blade I'll make straight laminate bars the length of the blade, forged to around 3/8" - 1/
  17. That, sir, is the right attitude for this business!
  18. Yep, that's a Fisher! Cast iron body with thick steel face and horn top, welded in the mold. They do not ring, but have great rebound. There should be a raised number on its left front foot (the side not showing in the pic) that, if you add a zero, will give you the weight. As in, if it's a 5, it's 50 pounds, if it's a 10, it's 100 pounds, and so on.
  19. If you go to their specialty wire page, they do have a "contact us" page where you can ask for a specific alloy and price quote. I've never been inside, but I know where they are. If you contact them and they say "well, we have a barrel of nickel wire drops out back" I'll be happy to go pick 'em up and ship them to you if they don't want to. It's only about 10 miles from me. Maybe five from Matt, but with twistier roads. https://www.mapeswire.com/specialty-wire/ On their "history" page they say they do aerospace alloys and other exotics. Ask for Nickel 200 (pure Ni), Nickel 4
  20. Welcome, Anders! That looks like an unsupported file format. Can you convert it to .jpg or similar? I like your avatar.
  21. Good luck, and remember to always work the weld at or near welding heat for the HC stuff!
  22. That quote was for a Little Giant, where there is a thick coil spring between the arms. These leaf spring setups are FAR safer. Don told me that mine once broke at an eye and he didn't notice until the next heat. These springs are not highly tensioned, and the stack is tightly clamped together. The eyes are about the only place they can break. I would shorten the bolts that connect the toggle arms to the ram, though. Or add an expanded mesh guard cover to keep accidental exposure to moving parts to a minimum. With Little Giant hammers the guard is a requirement, with others
  23. My feeling is that it will just burn off, with maybe some surface staining from the pigments in the paint that will grind off easily enough. I don't 100% guarantee that, but I strongly suspect it.
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