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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. That's what I'm thinking as well. On the only one of those I have, the bevel is about five times longer than that. On yours, that will change depending on blade thickness, but remember it has to have the same edge geometry as a knife blade to be able to cut well, even if it's a chisel grind. If it's already hardened and tempered, get one of those dremel stones for sharpening chainsaws that fits the notch. Those work on hardened steel much better than files. The shape looks good, and I don't envy you having to make it! I'm sure you'll pull it off, though. You've got th
  2. Have you checked here? http://www.hightemptools.com/salts.html
  3. You're really cranking these out! I like olive wood as well.
  4. The swirl is because the burner enters the chamber at a tangent at the top right. It has no option but to swirl. That's one heck of a forge, btw. I've used it a few times.
  5. Shellac might work as a binder. Worth a shot, anyway! I think the EU in general is very strict about borates, among other mostly-harmless-if-used-as-directed substances. Meanwhile, in the US we can buy a 2.14 Kg box of borax at the grocery store for about $3.50... I could ship you one, but as you said, it would cost a fortune. DHL is $58, FedEx is $80-$100, UPS is $100-$125, and, while USPS international is as low as $50, they transfer it to Deutche Post for delivery on your end, which would make us both liable for dealing in regulated substances. DHL would be the b
  6. It would spatter, yes. You could also just make a paste of borax and boiling water. Add borax until it won't take any more, then let it dry. It will be a hard-ish lump, but still able to be powdered if needed. And Dan is right, boric acid works too. It can be found in cockroach poison as the only ingredient, but make sure it is the only ingredient! In the US the brand name "Roach-Pruf" is pure boric acid. You can also find boric acid at a pharmacy. It's used as an eye wash.
  7. Do you have access to a kiln? If so, you could cast a rod of anhydrous borax by melting regular borax powder into a mold and firing it at around 2000 F. Otherwise, you could use the powder and bond it with either hide glue or white wood glue. It wouldn't be hard, but it wpuld gold together.
  8. I keep forgetting about those... if you search for one, call it a standard bull pin. They come in many sizes, and are indeed handy drift material.
  9. The bits look like a modified version of these: The center point is shorter and the spur is longer, with the center point still a bit longer than the spur. And you won't need the flat cutting part for the circle and dot. If you score an old one (these are a 17th-early 19th century pattern) and cut off the flat, you can use them to make center-hole bone button blanks as well.
  10. I find it extremely ironic that what I do for a living often involves talking to people who have had a similar experience to Arthur Dent's attempt to find the plans for a bypass scheduled to take his house. Our plans are only easier to get in that the locked filing cabinet is not in a disused lavatory in the basement with a sign on the door that reads "Beware of the Leopard."
  11. Uncle Al's are the gold standard. They are obnoxiously loud, but utterly bulletproof.
  12. Like that, or this, from Matthew Berry's blog: And here: The vents connecting back to the tree mean you'll most likely get porosity in the sprue, but who cares? It might also help if you re-oriented those little flat parts to be vertical, with vents coming off the bottom end and looping back to the sprue way high in the system. All these pictures are from vacuum casting, and as such they don't have nearly the amount of venting a gravity cast needs. Have you looked into centrifugal or even steam casting? Both kind of scary, and you're limited as to the siz
  13. As usual, what Jerrod said. If you're using an anti-scale compound or a muffle tube with a bit of charcoal in it, decarb isn't an issue. Somewhere around here I posted some pics of what soaking and subsequent normalizing does to grain size in W1. A five minute soak at around 1600 degrees created table-salt-sized grain; one normailzation took that to a decent size, three made it fine as silk. The basic rules of heat treating straight carbon steels are few and easy. 1. Do not soak, no matter what you saw on YouTube. 2. Always normalize 3x after
  14. That file will be either 1095 or W1, neither of which need more than a couple of minutes (like, seriously, two) at temperature. Longer than that and unless it's W2 and has vanadium in there, you'll get grain growth. On the one hand, this improved hardenability. On the other, it decreases toughness. Be sure to consider your alloy when adding soak time, most of the simpler ones don't need much, if any at all.
  15. Yes, but you two are approaching the issue with a separation of about 2700 years of technology. I do agree on the vents. Small parts at the bottom of the sprue tree should have so many vents coming off the thinnest sections that they look like big spiders. The vents hook back into the trunk, unless you add a riser, which in some cases may not be a bad idea.
  16. It never stopped, it just seemed to peak around 2014-2015, with minor resurgences since. Like now.
  17. Ariel Salavierra was doing it back around 2004. Dunno if he was the first or not. It is a cool effect, but it's basically just a big braze joint. Not ideal metallurgically, and yes, it does increase corrosion via galvanic reaction, but keep it clean and dry and it'll outlast you. Drop it in wet dirt for 100 years and all you'll find is copper foil.
  18. I continue to know where my towel is. Anything else, not so much...
  19. Lovely! I like all these little Birka-style saxes showing up these days. It's just over 15 years since the first seax rennaissance (driven by this very forum, btw!), maybe a new one is arriving?
  20. Looks like it hardened! As for temper, light straw for slicing, dark for chopping. Make sure there is no oil or fingerprints on the edge, that will throw the colors way off. As in, you can see full blue and it may still be too hard to file.
  21. The arms, the sort of vertical parts, should be longer and the toggles, the short horizontal parts, should be much shorter. The spring needs to be strong enough that it pushes the arms apart with enough force that the toggles are horizontal when at rest. Your spring looks like a loosely wound 1/8" diameter wire? On a 25lb Little Giant the same spring wire is about 3/8" diameter and is coiled very tight. The spring is what makes this type of hammer work. The only thing the toggles do is keep the ram from hitting the pitman at the top of the stroke. Speaking of which, a second look at your
  22. From what I can see from the video, the motor is way too slow, the spring isn't doing anything at all (it's supposed to be a large compression spring that pushes the arms apart with great force), and the ratio between the arms and the toggles is way off. Not trying to be a downer, but that needs some work. Edit: Jaro posted as I was typing. He just built one of these that works, so listen to him!
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