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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. I can't tell you how happy I am that Kyle made that video and even more that you posted it here. Those guys (Pakistani or Indian, but probably Pakistani) have really improved in the last few years, probably from reading here on the forum! But, for being more or less actual slave labor you really can't blame them for poor welds and sloppy HT. The guy in the UAE is probably getting the the one that sells for $35 for maybe $5-$7 each, which means that each guy on down the food chain is getting literally pennies for each step of the construction. I'm glad Kyle didn't bash on them as much as he
  2. Kreg brings up a very important point about going freehand after the heat treat: With a jig you can't feel if you're blowing the temper, and won't know until the edge suddenly turns blue. While this makes absolutely no difference before heat treating, it's a major problem if it happens afterwards. For that reason, when grinding freehand after HT always do it bare-handed so you can feel how hot the steel is getting. There are exceptions like Alex's filet knives that need the support of the jig and have to be HT'd before grinding. Also, you don't wear gloves when grinding for the
  3. That makes two of us! Although, it seems like Jeff had a pic of a small spearhead with teeny tiny teeth. I'll have to look, but still, this is seriously cool.
  4. Yep. To keep it clear, if you use ferric nitrate to stain the wood, you can call it aqua fortis stain, but not plain aqua fortis. There was an outfit called Wahkon Bay that used to sell ferric nitrate labeled as aqua fortis stain, that may be where the confusion got started. Sorry to hijack the thread, Stephen! Do you use heat on the chromic acid like you do the ferric nitrate?
  5. The pure iron and butter iron don't show a pattern because they have nothing to show, they are just homogenous metal. Wrought iron shows a pattern because it is a composite material of thin iron strings of varying composition mixed with iron silicate slag. The ferric chloride usually dries to a reddish powder, though... I don't know why yours is white, but then I don't let it dry on the steel, either.
  6. Yep, the contrast between the new and fossil ivory really works. And I dig the grooved guard.
  7. For the record, when wood finishing people say aqua fortis they mean ferric nitrate. When antiquarian chemists say aqua fortis they mean nitric acid. Nitric alone does enhance the grain, but doesn't add color. Well, it does add orange, but that's not really helpful...
  8. That's gonna look good with the centerline running through those X's. Good pattern for a double-edged symmetrical blade.
  9. Lookin' good, Stephen! I've never played with the chromic acid, but it does pop the grain.
  10. You, sir, are a fast learner! Looks good.
  11. But you still won't know what it is. Keep in mind that mower blades are designed to be lawsuit-proof, as in, will not ever break and send metal shards flying across the yard to injure anyone, resulting in a major liability claim against the manufacturer. In some cases, like on some commercial mowers, the blade steel is somewhat hardenable, but is sold in a way-soft tempered condition emphasizing toughness rather than hardness. In other cases, like consumer-grade stuff from the big box stores, they are not hardenable at all just in case some genius gets the idea to harden his mower blades so
  12. Check your email, the yahoo account. I want to be sure we can communicate before I do something irreversible!
  13. I can reset it to something neutral, then you change it when you log back in. I can't see people's passwords, but I can edit them.
  14. I smooth mine a little, but that's up to you. The as-cast texture tends to keep it from sticking, and if you use it a lot it'll wear smooth anyway.
  15. Oh, and after tempering my part for 2 hours at 1140 F, the shell of the oven was definitely too hot to touch.
  16. If you could get 240V service (I know...) it should keep the electronics cooler, or at least draw half the amps. But it looks great so far!
  17. It really is that soft! Certainly not suitable for chisels. That said, it would be great for a laminated yanagi-ba as long as you took the steel into the tang as well. You could hammer out the quench warp with no worries at all. It is more or less slightly harder than pure copper.
  18. That was actually accidental, I wasn't thinking of your post when I wrote that this morning. We agree, in other words.
  19. Nice! I just fired some AEB-L in my Evenheat, and after sitting at 1500 for ten minutes, ramping to 1925 and holding for ten more, it's still cool to the touch outside. It is wrapped in a stainless jacket, of course, but is otherwise not much different from yours. I did time it on the warmup. 37 F to 1000F in 8.5 minutes, 1000 to 1500 in 7 minutes, 1500 to 1925 in another ten. I don't know what kind of SSR it uses, but there is a massive heat sink on the back of the control box that gets warm to the touch. Not too hot, but definitely warm. I have the Rampmaster 3 with solid
  20. It's called "Pure Iron" or 00 iron in the U.S.A. It was made several years ago by a guy looking to replace wrought iron, and as far as I knew the batch is gone now. I have some, and it does forge like butter. Even cold. It barely work hardens. It's soft enough you can easily bend a 1cm round bar in your bare hands. I made a small axe from it once, with a high carbon steel edge of course. just ahead of the eye it was about 3cm x 1cm. It bent the first time I tried to use it. So: good for decorative work that won't be stressed, bad for things that actually get used. It etche
  21. Just be sure to keep them in order! They will be stamped 1, 2, and 3, and the slots will as well. If you get them mixed up they won't be concentric.
  22. I prefer that the handle doesn't fight with the blade myself. It's one thing if you can get curly maple to match a ladder pattern, but if it doesn't match it clashes. In my opinion, of course.
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