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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. That is my understanding as well. The one potential problem is if the peening of the tang has locked the nut in place, in which case you'd have to get the bits of tang out of the slot, tighten the nut, and re-peen the tang. Maybe use a little boiled linseed oil to try and expand the shrunken leather spacers first?
  2. It occurs to me also that Hitachi White is designed for water quenching, or at any rate it is a very shallow-hardening steel. Could also be that only the exposed edge fully hardened. It (#2) has enough carbon in it (1.05 - 1.15%) that it could lose a lot to the mild and you might not even notice. The mild is going to be (depending on which alloy) between around 0.15% and 0.25% C, so even if full diffusion has occurred the overall carbon is still going to be around 0.75-0.85%. I also thought about the one-sided iron/steel knives of Japan. The steel does fully harden, but it can be bent because of the support from the iron.
  3. Stihl, Husqvarna, or Jonsered? Or something else? I learned long ago to never buy a cheap chainsaw.
  4. Sounds like whoever did the welding may have hosed it. How thick is the White Paper? Carbon can move 1/16" in five minutes at welding heat. I can't explain why it both skates a file and takes a set, though... but my san mai experience is limited. Hopefully someone with more experience on the Hitachi steels will chime in, I've never used it. I have a small piece of Blue Paper, waiting for the right project.
  5. I have seen it done, but it's certainly not common practice. It may be more efficient, but the danger of it not relighting would keep me from doing it. Not to mention the extra oxidation you get every time you turn the burner off. Not a big deal for mild steel, but a dealbreaker on blades. I have seen an idler circuit built into atmospheric forges, though. It's an extra loop of fuel line with a needle valve and ball valve that drops the fuel input greatly, acting rather like a pilot light in a furnace. http://www.hybridburners.com/new-help.html#idlefull I have heard of at least one guy who used a solenoid to operate the ball valve so his forge was only on full blast when his foot was on a pedal.
  6. I never met him, but I have several picture of his knives on my screensaver at work. Sorry to hear it.
  7. European specs: DIN 1.1231, Krupps CK75 (Germany), AFNOR XC 68 (France), SS14 1770, 1778 (Sweden). All that said, C60 makes a good blade if water or brine quenched, that's what the late Bob Engnath used for his Japanese-style swords. It takes a great hamon, too. I doubt you'll find any car parts (at least recent ones) made from 1075, most are using 5160 or 9260 for the springs. Those little e-clips used to hold down railroad track are 9260 (if made by Pandrol), one of my favorite steels. Relatively easy to forge and finish, tougher than most other steels. It has to be oil-quenched.
  8. That's what I was thinking, 1075 or something similar.
  9. That bowling ball carcass material is pretty spiffy for plastic. Looks almost like amber.
  10. Looks good! Too bad about the router base collar. I hate when an otherwise decent tool is crippled by corporate greed.
  11. Bummer. I feel much the same as Bruno about tool theft. That's just low.
  12. Translated for the layman: the blade was made by packing a Harley Davidson chain with some bandsaw blade and powdered high carbon steel (the 1080 and 15n20 to fill up the voids) into a steel box (the canoe), the whole thing being then forge-welded into a solid billet of steel. The box was then ground off and the blade was forged from the billet. An acid etch then reveals the patterns made by the different kinds of steel used in the blade. Alloys with nickel, like the bandsaw blade, 15n20, and the roller pins in the chain, will be bright lines, while the leaves of the chain and the 1080 will be dark gray. The guard is made from nickel silver, aka white brass, aka German Silver (no actual silver content, it's mostly copper with 18% nickel). The handle is desert ironwood (tree species, rare and expensive, grows only in the Sonoran desert of Mexico and Arizona). The pins are tubes filled with other shapes and packed with colored epoxy resin to create a mosaic effect when viewed from the cut ends. The maker could probably tell you much more about it if you still have his contact info.
  13. A little Google-Fu makes me think I have found Mr. Farley, and that he is not the maker of the hammer but rather its first owner. He was a civil engineer for the army in Ohio in the 1890s and got a patent for a starter for motorcars in 1912: https://books.google.com/books?id=sbJDAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA315&lpg=PA315&dq=c.+r.+farley+ohio&source=bl&ots=8xVURk_OgV&sig=ACfU3U1m0bTwFaOheDK6r9g3-47bK9ELWg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjM_6yLkLrjAhWEHc0KHSvvClQQ6AEwBXoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&q=c. r. farley ohio&f=false https://books.google.com/books?id=hR9LAQAAMAAJ&pg=PR16&lpg=PR16&dq=c.+r.+farley+tools&source=bl&ots=AztThnbcRH&sig=ACfU3U1sLZBnnaL2i2JWfWbAyLPDrE-zCA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiDku_nj7rjAhVPHs0KHS-UCuo4ChDoATAAegQICRAB#v=onepage&q=c. r. farley tools&f=false It was common practice to stamp one's tools with one's name at the time.
  14. I don't have any of those, but I have always liked them. I've seen 'em come up at the local flea market from time to time, I'll keep an eye out for you. Oh, and (as you know) it would be sacrilege to turn that ball peen into anything else. I have rarely seen one so well made. Possibly English.
  15. I was just going to type what Jerrod said. On steel that thin, trying to do it in a kiln is going to result in a LOT of scale and decarb you won't necessarily get in a forge. You could also try just overtempering it with the propane torch, although there is a risk of warping since it's so thin. To do this, just hold it in the torch flame until it gets a little incandescent, a dull red in a dark room. The trick is to do it evenly and from both sides, or it will warp towards the cooler side. So, I vote for normalizing in the forge.
  16. I've always thought of the F/S as the archetype of the word "dagger." I look forward to seeing what you do with it.
  17. Yeah, ferric won't hurt you unless you drink it in quantity. Have no fear.
  18. Yeah, the flaky black stuff is burnt oil. Scale shows up in oxidizing atmospheres, and is basically magnetite formed from the iron in the steel combining with oxygen, and appears as a hard crusty gray deposit that leaves a pitted surface. Decarb doesn't show visually, but can be noticed if the outer few thousandths of an inch are softer than they should be. This happens in mildly oxidizing atmospheres when there is just enough oxygen to scavenge carbon from the surface of the steel.
  19. I do prefer this version.
  20. Yep, that's what you're after, grain-wise. Good job! And you might be able to drop a lump of charcoal into that furnace to provide a reducing atmosphere if you start having issues with scaling and decarb. I am told 80CrV2 is more prone to decarb than 1084 or 5160, but I've never been offered a reason that should be.
  21. Looks like a miniature industrial block. Mine is about the same size, but it has only one through-hole (1 3/4" square) on the large sides. The rest of the flats are taken up with bowl and spoon impressions. Mine also omits the octagons and has two larger half-rounds on that side. I need to carve out the pocket on its stump a bit bigger, the wood shrank over the last couple of years since I last rotated faces and it took a long time and a lot of force to get it back out. It's surprising how tightly a 1" deep slot can grip when it's shrunken elm... Regardless, swage blocks are incredibly handy to have around. Certainly not necessary, but they make a few jobs easier for sure.
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