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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. I was not ready for long-haired Jeroen! I had hair that long from 1988-1995. Thank you for posting this, I have missed your content.
  2. Yeah, can't tell... They also might have a hole in the tip, which is what you're trying to avoid?
  3. Ooh, I hope you have success with this! 1. No, I don't, sorry. 2. In theory, if you can find a dried oxtail chew toy. I've only seen assorted rawhide, antler, bone, hooves, and ears as dog chews, but then I don't often look at them. If you do find one, yes, all you'd need to do is soak it, get the hide off, put it over the core, and let dry. 3. In general, the cuts of meat that butchers get from wholesalers is skin-off, so no luck there. Try a slaughterhouse, aka meat processing plant. I haven't made rawhide, but there's lots of info online. Some is probably even good! If you do this, I want to know about the look on the face of the guy you ask for whole cow tails, unskinned.
  4. Indeed. You almost have to use hand gravers, and those have to be extremely sharp. That's going to look great on the sheath, though.
  5. I've always liked the weirdness at the line between the stainless and 52100 on these.
  6. You know, Tim, a couple of pics would be excellent for those of us looking to go VFD...
  7. Runs up the center of the blade on the back of the sheath, then runs up to the top edge where the suspension ring is. Follow the seam.
  8. Yes, that flows much better.
  9. Did you put an asymmetrical centre back seam on that? I really like it.
  10. I don't see why not. Basically using a drill press as a horizontal disk grinder. As long as you don't put side load on the spindle it would work as an improvised surface grinder. Slower, and not as accurate as some, but better than nothing for sure!
  11. Proof! Converted 1.25" round wrought iron to 1.25" x 5/16" bar and forged the head, forged the rest of the bar to 1.5" x 3/8". Next I'll forge that last bit of round down to 7/8" round or so, after which it'll go on the lather to be turned into the bowl. In a couple of months I may start a WIP thread on it. The intent is for this to go in Iron in the Hat at this year's Bowie Memorial Hammer-in. Much appreciated! If I didn't have a disk grinder with a tilting table I wouldn't have tried the dovetailed bolsters. Most folder makers that do that mill the liners and bolsters from solid 416 stainless using end mills and dovetail cutters. I used the disk grinder to bevel the bolsters prior to soldering on the liners, then used it to put matching bevels on the scales. It's an experience...
  12. Incidentally, if you ever watch Antiques Roadshow and see the appraisers looking at the brass drawer pull backplates (the "brasses," as they call them) on 17th and 18th century furniture, They're looking for evidence of cast-and-forged rather than rolled plate. Hammer marks, porosity, uneven thickness, etc. The better makers did try to file the brasses flat, and sometimes the only evidence is file marks on the back side, or a visibly crystalline texture. There is almost always a tiny bit of porosity, often hard to find. If it's uniformly smooth and even, it's rolled, and thus a later replacement.
  13. I thought about that as well. The clearance is good, and I didn't think the pin was too tight on the blade since when cycled with 220-grit scratches the pin doesn't rotate with the blade. What happens is that the liners spring open a bit, leaving the pin about 0.002" below the surface of the bolsters. Thus my determination I didn't a.) peen the pin enough, and b.) use the tapered reamer deep enough to hold the pin. I'm certain it can be driven out with a pin punch. Its getting the new one in that'll be a problem. I'll need to make a little doohickey that will take the spring tension off the blade enough to get a new pin through. AFTER taper-reaming the thing with a wider taper... Busy with the bureaucratic bounty of the day job for the next few weeks, unfortunately. Although I did start forging the hawk for the next hammer-in day before yesterday...
  14. Glad to hear it. I always worry I'll have someone take it personally. And you're one up on me: I've never made a W pattern billet.
  15. Ooh, I remember that one! Good advise, too.
  16. You asked for it, so here's an honest opinion. Keep in mind it is ONLY an opinion! The pattern is nice. I like the big bold look, it's uncommon and is not too busy. I don't like the harpoon point on the recurved blade. I don't care for recurved blades in general, but on this one the placement of the raised false edge is out of proportion. Too long, and with it at the deepest part of the curve it looks almost broken rather than intentional. And if you're going to do the harpoon point, it needs to be beveled back to the line of the spine to look right. Great job on the plunges and domed pin. I don't mind the slab-sided grip, you see that a lot on historic bowies. I think the guard transition from full width to half-width is a little too angular. Rounded corners would flow better. So would a little recurve in the guard, since it doesn't go all the way back. Not a full scroll, just a little flip at the end. A short upper branch on the guard would add visual interest to the otherwise flat plane there. There's not a lot of contrast between the guard and the spacer. A thin sandwich of vulcanized fiber and nickel or stainless would really pop. See Cal G.'s latest post for an example of this effect: A single black spacer between the iron and nickel, and a black spacer with a thin line of nickel between the big nickel and the wood would really set that transition off. It's a classic trick, and still works well. As Dick said, be proud you finished it out, you learned a lot of new stuff! And remember, my critique is only an opinion.
  17. Cast an ingot as thin as you can, hammer it to the required thickness. I've seen Wallace Gusler do it with brass by pouring it onto a marble slab. I bet Jeroen has a better way, though.
  18. Yeah, I have a tapered reamer that I use for this. I just didn't peen the pin as much as I should have. It'll probably push right through when I get around to doing it. Keep the ideas coming, though!
  19. Nice! I can see it would be hard to compete with the imports and their investment casting process for the brass. That's one reason I stick with the American gunsmith style of tomahawk, I can't make the English style trade hawks and make any profit, especially since there are good castings of those out there.
  20. Every few years I pick up the leaf blade dagger blade that sits by the grinder and give it a few passes, and each time I say "Huh. I forgot this was san mai..." I do use a silver sharpie to mark my high carbon steel stock. Every foot or so, so I don't accidentally cut off the marking and forget if it's 1075, 1084, W1, 5160, 52100, H13, O1, S7, or A2. And the AEB-L. And the cpm154... The 15n20 is pretty distinctive. I might have too much variety of steel floating around... the wrought pile is in its own corner and is also distinctive.
  21. That's kinda cool... might it be a forgotten damascus blade?
  22. That'll be just too cool if you can get it to work!
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