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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. Yeah, except Starry Night is Van Gogh. Pretty darned awesome, Dave!
  2. Y'all do know who Tim is, right? Ever used or recommended a forge made from an adobe-filled washtub blown with a hair dryer? AKA the Lively-type forge?
  3. I was wondering about the mill... The good news is cast iron can take a bit of fire as long as it's not taking a direct hit with a hose. Consider it an extreme form of stress-relieving for castings. Did the patterns and plans make it?
  4. I think Doug meant the way the edge rises above the unsharpened part in picture #2.
  5. Quench vertically, stopping with the scroll right at the surface. Hold until the red fades, then all the way in.
  6. You, sir, know how to keep busy during quarantine! Bravo!
  7. I think you did a fine job. Chapes are hard too. About the only thing I'd change would be to make the nagel a bit smaller, but that's a minor quibble.
  8. Looks like a good armor-piercer! And I do like me some briar burl.
  9. That they do. There are a LOT of cheap thin-wall tubing grinders on eBay with unbalanced wheels that are priced just enough lower than the real grinders that many new folks are tempted. These grinders cannot be made not to vibrate. Even my KMG, which is built from 1/2" plate with 1.5" solid steel arms, can be induced to vibrate off the table with an unbalanced wheel. This makes it very important to be careful with tube-frame grinders. The one Jeremy linked is guaranteed to be good, because those guys don't sell bad tools. It's their livelihood, they can't afford to get a single bad review. Plus they're knifemakers themselves, so they know what is required. This is in contrast to the guys on eBay who are just looking to take the money of inexperienced people by providing shoddy, often unusable, forges and grinders. I'm lookin' at you, Devil Forge and Toobinator...
  10. This is where you need some kind of antiscale compound. Using your files and sandpaper, take the edge down to pretty much ready to sharpen and fully finished before you harden and temper. Follow the directions of your chosen antiscale compound closely, some of them can really do a number if overheated. Use a muffle pipe in your forge (tubing with one end sealed shut, toss a lump of wood or charcoal in the end) to keep a neutral atmosphere. Between that and the antiscale, you can avoid both scaling and decarburiazation, allowing you to harden with a much thinner edge than usual. Note that warping can still be an issue! To avoid that, normalize several times before hardening and be really careful about how your blade enters the quench. Warping is caused by unequal stresses, so normalize to even out forging stress, heat evenly (muffle pipe!) to even out heat stress, and quench exactly perpendicular to the oil and don't swish the blade around to avoid uneven cooling stress. If you are very careful you can do this with a fully sharpened blade. It's not recommended practice, but it can be done.
  11. Welcome to the forum, Tim! Glad to see you here.
  12. Pheer has a good reputation. So does the one Jeremy linked. 20 years ago the choice was limited to four grinders. Now there are about a dozen with good reputations. In general I prefer solid barstock for the tooling arm to limit vibration, but heavy wall tube is fine.
  13. There is a learning curve, but you'll get it no problem. That's going to increase your productivity if you're not careful!
  14. I like where you're going with this.
  15. Since he mentioned Owen's smith knives, I suspect that curve is deliberate.
  16. Ha! Nailed it, yataghan curve and all. . How are you going to hilt it?
  17. Well done! Most people make those too big. This is a great recreation.
  18. Now that is just too cool! I think you just invented a whole new category, in fact...
  19. Looks like you've got a copy of or have seen the diagrams from Tylecote and Gilmour 1986...
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