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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. How did it do after half an hour at 6 PSI? Ideally you'd see little to no flame inside, just a nice yellow glow. If you've got that, hold off on further tinkering until you get used to it. Homemade gas forges are a steep learning curve, and it's best not to mess with too many variables at once.
  2. Slipped with the disk grinder and took 0.3mm too much off the end of my latest folder backspring. Just enough to ruin it.
  3. Welcome! I particularly like the first one.
  4. What pressure are you running? That still looks a bit rich, which is opposite problem most people have.
  5. LPG is easily able to get and hold temperatures for a cruxible furnace IF you use a blown burner. Venturis like that have the very issue you ran in to. With a blower freezing is no longer a problem. An oil burner is fine too, of course, and adds another level of niftiness. Congrats on the first semi-success! You need to stir the melt, or at least probe it to ensure everything is liquid. A carbon rod is ideal, but mild steel will work as long as you don't leave it in too long. You'll need a foundry glove and face shield, and don't turn the gas down. Just lean over, poke around gently, and stir gently. Any glass you drag in will float back up.
  6. No. Do not file back the tips, that's probably the whole problem. They are only the rated size at the very tip. Try an 0.030 tapered tip without changing anything. I bet you'll see a world of difference. You are probably dumping gas through an 0.045" jagged orifice at the moment.
  7. Sounds like you need a smaller tip for sure. Tapered wouldn't hurt, either.
  8. You're running way rich. What size are your gas jets? Somehow you've got a lot more gas than you need getting in there.
  9. They look fine to me! And yes, experience is a good teacher.
  10. I think it looks good. Those patterns need some slight imperfections or they get sterile. I don't see them, but the fact it looks good shows they're there.
  11. I had a flat tire today too, but no whisky. . Got some rum, though, so life is still decent.
  12. I like it. The pics are a bit grainy, though.
  13. I think the reason you see people using oak is because it (in the form of kiln-dried red oak) is the only hardwood readily available at the big box home improvement stores in the US. Red oak will cause rust. I'm with Geoff, though, I don't use it much because it's usually pretty uninspiring to look at. You can turn white oak into faux bog oak with vinegaroon or aquafortis. Quartersawn white oak, aka tiger oak, is pretty in larger sections like flooring, furniture, and so on, but usually isn't figured enough for small knife scales. This, when darkened to resemble bog oak, is a pretty good substitute at a much lower price than the real stuff. People also think of oak as being "strong" wood. It is, but it's also fairly brittle, which is why you don't see it used for hammer handles (except for Japanese red oak, apparently it has some spring to it the other species don't have, unless that's just more of the hype so often associated with things Japanese).
  14. In my part of the USA without the broad arrow stamp you could expect to pay $400 - $600 for a Brooks of that weight in that condition. The stamp adds another $100-$200. Should be a bit less where you are. But not much.
  15. Yes indeed, that book is the only book of its kind! And there is a lot of information it leaves out, especially for Continental anvils. But if the anvil is English or pre-1999 American, it is probably in there.
  16. From what I can find, the only English anvil maker operating in 1945 was Brooks. Being wartime production it's not surprising it's not marked. The RH may be a foundry identifier. I have never seen an anvil with the broad arrow mark, and I'm a little jealous. Welcome aboard!
  17. Nice. I'm glad they let you keep the big nails.
  18. On linseed oil and blackening: afterwards is easier, but either way works. I usually raise the grain and dewhisker a time or two before blackening, but that's not necessary at all.
  19. Looks like a decent unit, as I said. KMG clone with a tilting feature, basically. Personally I don't see a need to tilt, but hey, since I don't have that feature I don't know what I may be missing. I'm not a big fan of the gas struts, but not for any practical reason. I just like the adjustable tension you get with the bolt-and-spring on the KMG. Who knows, I might be perfectly happy with a strut, it's just not what I have.
  20. Bump it one more time and you're out.
  21. Gotta put some kind of organic offering in the can! Is that a self-contained air hammer I see? Nice!
  22. Yep, that's choppy! Not quite the right hilt for a true falcata, but obviously takes inspiration from the blade. Nice job on the polish, and nice anvil!
  23. What Austin said! Welcome aboard. Being as old as it is, I wouldn't assume the spring is 5160, though. It might be, or it might be 9260, 1075, or even 1095. Or something else... Test a piece and see how it does in warm oil before you do the blade.
  24. No, you just posted at night and nobody is up yet. Never heard of the company, but it looks decent.
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