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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. It does seem silly in an area like yours that has no confirmed cases. We had no cases in my county when we started isolating either. Now we have six confirmed, and it doesn't seem quite as silly. And declaring an emergency doesn't give you government money. Who says you can't ask questions? If it's your elected officials, remind them who elects them.
  2. Practice. And a properly dressed hammer face. It's tricky, but once you have the hammer control to make the edge of the anvil and the edge of the hammer face line up for every blow, you can do a good forged plunge. Of course, once you've started hammering a single misalignment will ruin it...
  3. The guard is very near the proximal null node of vibration, aka the spot in the grip where there is no vibration, so it doesn't make a whole lot of difference.. A guitar string isn't really the best analogy.
  4. I'd double-and triple-check that. A guy in Arizona just died of trying that stuff. It's all over the internet, but there's no real proof.
  5. It's a little bit thicker, thus a little bit slower. With the composition of this blade that shouldn't be a problem, just don't try for hamon on 1095 with it.
  6. Well said, sir. We do try to keep politics out of the forum, well done skirting it. Maintain hope! This too shall pass. Slowly. But it will pass.
  7. I don't know that particular sword, but there are a handful with similar mounts that all seem to have come from Ireland at about the same time.
  8. Have you considered chisels? I find a nice half-round die-sinker's chisel to be the very ticket. Just take a rod of something cheap and hardenable, grind to shape, harden, and go to town. When it chips, grind it back and continue. Coil spring is great for this. Once it's roughed in, then go to files.
  9. Ovens do that, especially if you left any oil on the head. Sort of the opposite of tempering over the fire where oil will show you a full blue, but a file will still skate. As long as it files, it's good! And, BTW, I'm really diggin' this.
  10. I do feel bad for the people being laid off, and I do think the response is only slightly overblown. The problem is we are not being told the WHY of not leaving the house for two to four weeks, and people are scared. The media, especially the social kind, is not helping. It is in the best interest of humanity to stay apart until the virus runs its course, that is the reason for the shutdowns. If there were no shutdowns, people (being essentially silly, ignorant creatures) would continue to congregate and pass it around. It's not deadly to the vast majority of people, but it is serious enough that it would clog the healthcare network in a couple of weeks if we don't act like adults and just step back to break the cycle. We've seen too many zombie movies and it's freaked people out unreasonably. Hoarding guns and toilet paper is ridiculous. If we calm the heck down and stay low for a few weeks it'll be gone (or at least contained) in a couple of months. The reason it's so bad in northern Italy is that they did not implement isolation measures until it was way too late. But they seem to have turned the corner as of this weekend. This doesn't turn you into a zombie. This usually doesn't kill you*. But it does make you a drain on the already overstressed system if you do get a serious case of it. Be adult, tell the fearful to get over it and man the heck up. We'll get through this. *I am in the higher risk group, being 50ish, a former smoker, recently recovered from pneumonia, and on immunosuppressant therapy for psoriatic arthritis, which I may stop for a while. I don't want to deal with being sick for a month again. edited to add: I'm also out of breath from helping a neighbor round up some escaped cattle and rebuilding much of the fence, and of course we talked about all this. He just had his spleen removed on January 28 and is moving slow. Very few cases around us, but there are a few. We agreed to keep it that way.
  11. The spine pattern looks almost like the plasticine from Dave's! In a good way, of course. And the pinstripe Damascus is a great way to get that effect without having to do all that fiddly wire inlay or koftgari. Nice!
  12. Also, once everything is hooked up, spread some soapy water on all the joints and turn on the gas. Any leaks will show as bubbles.
  13. On the folders since they are stock removal only and start from speroidized annealed, I normalize twice, then I set the little two-brick gasser at 1550 F and soak for ten minutes. On forged O1 I just soak for a minute or two at decalescence, assuming that forging has done a lot of the carbide-spreading work already.
  14. I have one dry chemical on the wall beside the power hammer where it's a quick grab from the forge, and a CO2 that sits on the floor halfway to the door. Then there's the old lime bucket left over from when I thought I was annealing stuff. Just as good as sand for oil fires on the floor or any other "smother and cover" type of situation. Lids on the quench tanks. A covered oil fire is no longer a fire after less than a second. Then there's the hose on the back wall outside. Not that a garden hose is ideal, but it can be deployed if needed.
  15. Mix it thick and it ought to be enough for a skim coat. You really don't need any thickness of coating anywhere except the floor and lower walls where it tends to get poked a lot. Unless you want to weld. Then you will need a thicker floor to keep any flux off the wool.
  16. Technically yes, but the wool will be crumbly after you fire it for a while. This will just make it harder to line later, as the wool will want to powder up rather than sit still. But firing it up to see if it works is fine. If you just absolutely have to forge (and I understand!) and can't wait for the kast-o-lite to arrive, just put a thin coat of satanite on it as a temporary measure. The kast-o-lite will stick to that just fine.
  17. I ground a little too much off the wrong side of a folder backspring, then discovered I'm now out of 3/32" 01 to replace it with...
  18. I do have some of the Briwax in black, and it is great for indoor things that don't get touched. It's not nearly as tough as car wax, though.
  19. Looks like the e9 is a small enamelling kiln, but certainly usable for smaller blades. Chamber size is 8.5 x 9 x 4.5 inches. As long as you stick with 7" or smaller blades it would be fine. Oh, max temp is 2000, so no fancy stainless alloys.
  20. Perhaps I should have clarified. Air on, slightly opened valve, torch in forge, light torch, slowly add gas until it gives a gentle "poof!" But yeah, it'll take the hair off your knuckles no matter what. You just have to figure out where to stand during the process so as little of you as possible is in the way. A smith I know who shall remain nameless lost much of his beard that way, using the flaming wad of paper method and Jeremy's mistake of not turning the gas off between attempts while lighting a Fogg-type drum forge... Congrats on the first firing!
  21. The "sentry xpress 4" is just the controller, and is found on everything Paragon makes. What model kiln is it?
  22. That was in the display room at Owen's hammer-in in 2014, so most of the pieces were still in the hands of the makers at that time. Here's the full set of pics: Not to hijack or anything, of course.
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