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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. There's a pretty steep learning curve to those. Be sure to get a LOT of blades!
  2. You can indeed seal the cord with epoxy. Use a hair dryer to keep the epoxy hot and thin, it'll soak into the cord. If you stop applying the epoxy before it forms a visible pool between the strands, and keep the heat on it for another minute or so, it'll soak into the cord and not leave a mess on the blade. It's tricky to do well, use a Q-tip or small paintbrush to apply the epoxy and only use a little at a time.
  3. Nice! Quite arty, and I love that it's wearable.
  4. Yeah, you've outdone yourself on this one!
  5. It does indeed! Excellent use of the disappearing rivet trick.
  6. Looks like a Trenton with that long skinny heel, but that's not their mark... might be an Arm and Hammer. Both made by the Columbus Forge and Iron Company of Columbus, Ohio. With the steel face and iron body that dates it to ca. 1898 - 1914. There should be a serial number on the front foot, when you get the new anvil see if it's there. If it's an A&H the underside of the heel should be kind of rough, they left them unfinished right off the steam hammer. Whatever it is, it was indeed the best $50 you ever spent! You will definitely notice a big difference in how much steel you can move with the Holland. That old anvil probably has excellent rebound, but there's no substitute for mass under the face. Get ready to grind the edges, though. They come sharp enough to cut yourself on.
  7. Nice! Is that a peen block, or is the whole bun the tang?
  8. Hey, if the CFO says do it, by all means do it! I was wondering that about the shelf. I have used one once upon a time, on a 125lb Peddinghaus, and it's a neat thing for certain bends, especially hinge eyes. Anything you want to bend more than 90 degrees without hitting the side of the anvil, really. Plus it gives you a 90 degree inside corner to use as a swedge... I'd get one if it was an option, it can't hurt. Can you add a set of wheels to one side of the stand such that they're almost touching the floor, and will engage if the stand is tipped about 10 degrees? If so you can fill the stand with sand, steel, gold, or what have you to make a heavier base. I'd say lead but we all know the dangers of that. Plus gold is a bit heavier!
  9. Anvil shape also makes a difference. A 100lb farrier's anvil with the long horn, long heel, and tiny waist feels very different from a 100lb English colonial-era anvil with short horn, almost no heel, and all the mass under the face. The blocky anvil feels more solid and gets more work done. As for shelf, it's handy if you don't have a swage block. My main anvil is a 220lb Refflinghaus south German pattern with no shelf/step, just like Holland's 240lb double horn. If I need the step, I have a block that sits in the hardy hole. No big deal, easy to make. That said, just looking at the distribution of mass, the 260lb has it more centered under the face. A friend has the 125lb double horn, and I can vouch for the heat treatment. They're very lively anvils.
  10. 9260 (if that's what it is, what kind of vehicle did it come from?) is basically analogous to 5160, except with silicon instead of chromium. It gets as hard, but it is tougher. And yes, the HT is the same as 5160, which is why they are used interchangeably by spring shops.
  11. Warm oil might do it, try and see. Size of the sample isn't that important, except for thickness. Thin stuff will tend to harden faster than thicker stuff. I saw you use metric, so I checked your IP address for location. You may well have EN43/9260, one of my favorite steels for big blades. It's extremely tough, but easy to forge. It works fine in water, but warm oil is safer.
  12. It could be a number of other alloys as well. 1084, 1075, 9260, 8670, and so on. There's no rule that springs have to be a particular alloy, only that they be able to act like a spring. What did it come off of? Now then, based on your experiments, it's not 5160 since it didn't harden in oil and since it didn't crack in water. It's also perfectly normal for hardened steel to shatter like glass if you haven't tempered it after hardening. It's probably a 10XX series steel, but we can't rule out 9260. Finally, scrapyard XRF analysis is pretty useless for what we do. Unless the unit is specifically calibrated for steel it'll give you gibberish, and on top of that they can't detect light elements like carbon. They're really only for the scrap guy to be able to tell if something is steel or aluminum or copper.
  13. Most people either use a pin that drops in from the top or a tab that rotates down. Think simple. Either drill a hole through the die holder such that it will capture the die with a pin, or drill and tap a small hole like 1/4-20 in the front of the die holder and bolt a rectangular piece of steel to it so it hangs down and hold the die in place, but can be rotated up to remove the die.
  14. Welcome back! 1. Spring temper will be a bit soft for a carving blade. You'll probably want to redo the HT. 2. That's pretty thin, but carving knives and Sloyd knives would be a good use. Or leatherworking blades, anything that needs to be thin and delicate. 3. I think you answered your own question there.
  15. You are completely insane, but in the best possible way. I love this project!
  16. Did a few things over the weekend, including finding two new problems to fix! Still working up folders, and one of the blades took a nasty warp for some reason, probably got into the seam of the foil pouch and got pressed unevenly during the quench. It's in the oven trying to correct said warp. This amount of bend didn't help much, so it's back in the oven with a thicker spacer to push the tip down more. I also learned that the 1/8" bone scales I ordered from Guitar Parts & more (great place for other stuff!) were bleached with something that made them WAY too brittle. When I drilled the holes for the scale rivets and mainspring pin I used all the precautions: New sharp bits, masking tape, clamped hard to a piece of flat wood, very light intermittent pressure on the drill bit, and every hole blew out so completely it looked as though I shot them in with a .22 rifle. Now, I have been using Loctite AA330 speedbonder for these scales, because it's ready to go in five minutes and it's resistant to everything. Heat, pressure, bending, prying, most solvents, the stuff is pretty much indestructible. And now I had to remove it or trash the liners I spend all day working on, including dovetailed bolsters. Well, turns out that if you let it soak in lacquer thinner for 24 hours and then patiently pry with an exacto blade, it'll let go. No pics of the aftermath, I set fire to the little can of solvent with the scales still in it (saved the liners!). Turns out that dry bone soaked in lacquer thinner will burn to bone ash. Another learning experience!
  17. Sounds like you know what you want to use, then. It was my second choice, for what it's worth.
  18. If you do use soapstone, be sure to wear a respirator or carve it wet. The dust acts like asbestos.
  19. Still looks wrought-ish... Those flakes are a good sign.
  20. Back in the day you'd have been the court jeweler to the king, dude...
  21. Here's more than you want to know about patinas... https://www.ganoksin.com/search/patinas/ But yes, etches leave a patina. The black goo on carbon steel after etching with ferric chloride is manganous ferrous oxide (Fe3O4 with manganese dioxide). What you're getting is probably a simple patina reaction between your water, the stones, and the steel. Jerrod responded while I was typing, but IIRC Jim Kelso's iron patina is the one with hydrogen peroxide and salt, right? That's just a way of quickly forming hydrated ferrous oxide, aka magnetite or black rust.
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