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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. When I took a tomahawk class at Conner Prairie in 2000 the lead instructor asked if we'd heard that OBT. We all had. He then took a collection of pre-1981 pennies from us. Got about 16, IIRC. He then tossed them in the coal forge and proceeded to weld up two hawks and a belt axe without ever cleaning the fire. The only time copper causes problems with welding is if it is in or on the steel itself.
  2. Welcome aboard! You're going to fit right in. Do you know Joshua States? He's a fellow Hancock alumnus and Phoenician, no doubt he'll show up soon. Love that ram's horn.
  3. Yeah, 1084 doesn't come in round. W1, O1, and 5160 do, of the relatively easy knife steels.
  4. Couldn't find it either, but here's the full credits: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1972591/fullcredits/?ref_=tt_ov_st_sm There's about 15 armourers and assistant armourers, but that only means they procured the sword, not that they made it.
  5. They're whatever was cheapest for the manufacturer at the time. 1045, 1060, 5160, 4140, reconstituted powdered toast mix... You can get a three foot bar of 3/4" round W1 for $5 or so, then you'd know exactly what you have. And we'd be able to tell you how to heat treat for best results. Using scrap for blades is false economy. It's fun, and you're recycling, but you'll never know what the best heat treat is without a lot of experimentation. If you want to do that experimentation, that's great. You need to be able to see decalescence so you can tell when it's ready to quench, and you need to try oil and water quenches to see if it survives, hardens, or kind of hardens. Then experiment with tempering heats until you find out what is needed to get the hardness and toughness you want. That's what we do for homemade steel, and within reason that's what you do with scrap. The original use tells you a little, but not much, about what the alloy may be.
  6. If you use actual jewelers silver solder it will give contrast. If you use silver bearing lead-free plumbing solder you'll have a big mess. Since she did jewelry she probably has the right stuff. True silver solder, aka hard solder, flows anywhere between 1100 -1800 degrees F and contains silver (56% to 90%), copper, and traces of other stuff. Plumbing solder with silver flows at 450 F and is 96% tin, 3% antimony, and 1% silver.
  7. Most excellent! Love that bone carving. Maisie did a good job!
  8. +1 on what James said. And if that's hard firebrick, the wool will also keep you a lot cooler. Welcome aboard!
  9. Nice! I want to make one of those, and the Hurst shifter is a nice touch.
  10. Any patina on a carbon steel kitchen knife will eventually turn a uniform brown. The mustard doesn't wear off, it just blends. Hamon or clay hardening on an appropriate steel (as Doug mentioned, O-1 is not appropriate for that) does the same. If you want to keep a fresh-looking hamon, you will have to redo the polish every few years. If you want to keep a fresh-looking mustard patina, you have to re-polish the blade and redo the mustard every few years. Personally I like the deep chocolate brown an ancient carbon steel kitchen knife gets, but it does kind of spoil the look of a good hamon. And wives tend to want knives to be shiny.
  11. There are two ways to do san mai with stainless outer layers, both of which start with grinding all surfaces super clean and then not touching them again, much as you'd prepare a mokume billet. Then you have the choice of doing as Jeremy said and MIG or TIG welding the entire perimeter shut (stick might work, but not if I do it...) or packing it in a canister and welding that shut. A guy I know uses aluminized exhaust header tubing scraps because they won't stick to the billet. Then whichever method you choose, you bring the whole thing to welding heat and set the whole thing on the first squish. Yes, squish. It's pretty much a press weld, hand hammering will not have a high success rate. Hopefully one of the guys with more experience will chime in (cough Joshua cough)
  12. Language. San Mai is Japanese, the three-layer laminates from Scandinavia are in their own respective languages.
  13. Well done! I head the rivets with about ten taps in a vise, but I don't have a collet chuck and my lathe is only about 300 lbs.
  14. You should be able to feather the clutch enought to have that control, and it won't hurt the hammer. Leaf springs are pretty forgiving.
  15. You can do it with equal thickness to make a big billet, but you really have to pay attention to where things are. It's easy to get the core off-center with thick sides.
  16. I never addressed that, but yes, it does! 4.8 ounces / 136g. Fairly well balanced despite that bulbous butt-end.
  17. As a general rule, with steel you want the outer layers to be half or less the thickness of the core. With iron you want as little iron as possible, it'll smear out over the steel.
  18. If you want to leave the texture on a file or rasp knife, you have to forge at welding heat to avoid that sort of thing. Which leads to other issues, but it's doable. Also makes a cool pattern if you use a bit of unground file as the edge steel in an axe. You get the teeth!
  19. I like when things work out like that. And yes on your eccentric. These things sling the ram a lot further than you'd think when running, and it's such a fast snap you don't see it on video. Mine had a 4" stroke at the eccentric (2" off center) and a ram throw of six or seven inches using a similar spring pack to yours. If you find it's too whippy you can always bolt on (clamp, actually) another leaf to stiffen it up. Stiffer runs faster. there is an ideal ratio of speed to weight to stiffness, but I don't know how to calculate it. Too fast and too whippy and you'll float the ram without doing any work. As an aside, the anvil and ram of mine were made from similar shafting, in this case a five-foot length of 4" round that had been a bulldozer axle. I cut off the top foot and welded the flat bottom of a bit of railroad track with the bulb cut off to it to make the guide system. I really wish I had pics of that thing...
  20. Thanks, Kevin! They intimidate me too... 20 years ago I was making flintlock rifle patchboxes with hidden release mechanisms and didn't think a thing about it. Those are a bit more complex, but not intimidating. Folders demand a level of precision I don't generally do...
  21. Just a suggestion, I would speed it up to around 220 rpm and shorten the stroke by half. These hammers work by moving the spring quite a bit to give you a snap on the downstroke. A 4" open space when still will be an eight inch or more when running full tilt. Don't want to launch it off the guides! My hammer is a different config, but it has a 1" gap at rest, 6" at full tilt, and tops out at 220 beats per minute or more.
  22. I like mine so that the tooling arm is about an inch above the belly button, but then I'm blind and need it close. But somewhere around your center of mass is good, because you'll be locking your elbows and leaning into it.
  23. Nice stuff! That chip-carved guitar is kind of mind-blowing, I've never seen one.
  24. That's more a function of the humidity in your shop. Red scale is hydrated iron oxide, gray/black scale is anhydrous. Doesn't mean much.
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