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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. What Jeremy said, but 1/4" is a thick blade. Anything thinner than, say, 3/32" / 0.093" /1.5mm is better to grinder after HT, only because steel that thin tends to warp in the quench if it's bevelled. Think filet knife or thin kitchen blade. With most blades over 3/32" you'd just be wasting belts to do heavy grinding after HT in my opinion. But that's just me.
  2. Gerhard, what kind of ivory? Warthog should be relatively legal, don't know about hippo. I've been told hippo is much softer than some, though...
  3. I think he missed the part about it being in coin-type slices rather than scales.
  4. Prejudice. . Seriously though, I have used a lot of anvils, both old and new, and never found a newer one (Peddinghaus, both pre and post- Ridgid tool, Refflinghaus, TFS, Cliff Carroll, Etc. but not Rhino) which has as hard a face or as good a rebound as any pre-1970s anvil. Laurel Forge and Foundry came close, and the later Kohlswas were even harder (and thus prone to chipping), but no cigar. And it's not a forged versus cast thing, Columbians are cast steel, and Fishers are steel-faced cast iron. All the new ones advertise a face between Rc 54 - Rc 56. If that is true, my Columbian must be Rc 59 or better. A file won't touch it, and it will not dent. Send me a Rhino and I'll let you know what I think...
  5. You can also vary the tension, that (and the tooth spacing) affects how tight the pattern is. My sample above is 1" round with a 14-20 variable pitch blade as tight as I could tension it. A 10-14 blade leaves a coarser pattern. Less tension makes it more pronounced, as the bkade can flutter a bit more.
  6. That's the harmonics from the bandsaw blade. I think it's pretty cool. I actually took pictures the last time I cut some 1" round bar, looks exactly like that. Looks like your saw has a tighter pivot. This effect shows up on square bar too, but as horizontal lines. Only rounds get the curved ones. It's just a "reflection," if you will, of the vibrations the teeth take into the bar with them.
  7. These, and a burial context or three, are the only surviving ones I know of. Jim Austin makes good reproductions based on these finds. https://forgedaxes.com/classes/all-classes/viking-style-blacksmithing-hammer/ http://warehamforgeblog.blogspot.com/2014/02/viking-age-forging-hammers.html I asked because none of them have that short heavy fuller behind the face. There is a sway there for sure, though. Good forging, and good toolmaking regardless!
  8. You've gotten really good faster than anyone else I've seen! And since it sold so fast you know to charge more for the next one.
  9. Looks like that new stuff is a good bit stronger than FeCl. Pretty wild pattern!
  10. What are you using as your model? The few I've seen don't have that dramatic a face. Just curious.
  11. That's the "cool" emoji, a sly smile in shades. No slight intended.
  12. You were about to drop $2500 on a Papa Rhino the other day, dude, and this is a better anvil than ANY modern one. And that price is still a deal IF it weighs what they say it does.
  13. Another excellent video! You are one of the few people, myself included, who I've seen use the cross pein to pull down the bevel at the ricasso. I've seen alot of using the edge of the face to do it, but the pein is just so much easier. And often more accurate.
  14. Columbians are great. If it's what it looks like I'd have dislocated my shoulder trying to get to my wallet by now...
  15. If you don't have documentation that it was legal when purchased, and it's not part of an obviously antique object, you can't legally sell it across state lines or internationally, period. Annoying and stupid, but that's how it is. That probably wouldn't stop me from using it, though. I'd just claim ignorance as to what it is if anyone asked. I have some synthetic ivory that is practically impossible to tell from the real stuff unless you do the hot needle test. I might just say I thought that's what it was.
  16. Good call, sir. That ancient ivory is too nice to waste.
  17. My standing is a hobby smith of 22 years who happened to inherit moderator status on Don Fogg's forum when he retired, (I suspect because I talk too much...) and while I am a decent blacksmith and competent bladesmith, I'm just a middle aged guy from Tennessee who loves this stuff. But I appreciate the respect, thank you. You are the one who deserves the respect, though. And you have it from me.
  18. And before you do anything, pin the scales together and even up the blade ends. That has to be even or it will look bad.
  19. It's always best to do all filework and hole-drilling before heat treating. If you're worried about the filemarks being a stress riser (generally speaking, not a real problem), fill them with clay before HT. I try to have everything done and sanded to 400 before HT. Use a muffle pipe with some wood or charcoal in it, zero scale. Or use antiscale powder in an oven. If using stainless, use foil. That way the only real cleanup after hardening is removing the cooked-on oil for carbon steels, and nothing for stainless. Hit it with 400 again and it's ready for the edge.
  20. I finally had time to watch the second video, and I'm pinning this thread. There's just so much good info presented in both videos it's amazing! I especially liked the second video where you're filing and talking about filing. I LOVE filing and files. There's a couple of threads about that down in the fit and finish subforum, and as I'm always telling people to get the biggest file they can find for the first rough work, it made me deliriously happy to see you demonstrating just how quickly you can get the job done with the right file. Bravo!
  21. What Rob said. I can't overstate the importance of gaining good forging skills, especially if you don't have serious power tooling to finish things with. The old saying is "a minute at the forge saves ten at the grinder," but if you're working without a big grinder, it's more like "a minute at the forge saves an hour with files and sandpaper." There's not one thing wrong with that little kiridashi.
  22. With the hot-dog-inna-bun weld it'd just give it some curve, possibly in the wrong direction... Go for the damascus, it's actually easier!
  23. This. They actually have maybe seven of them now? Matt Stagmer can grind a sword blade in about 15 minutes start to finish on a pair of them. They're big, but they are very stable, very powerful, and can run very fast. They're industrial machines, like the really big power hammers. The Nazel 3B hammer we all want, at 300lb ram weight, is a baby used to make the tooling for the big hammers. Same with a 2x72 grinder versus the 3x132 grinders. If you've got the need for commercial-scale production, you've got the need for a bigger grinder. In other words, I want one, but I don't need one.
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