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Alan Longmire

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Posts posted by Alan Longmire

  1. If you're taking that to Atlanta next month, I suspect you'll go home with a few awards. B)  Lots of people make knives, you create an entire mythos for each piece!

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  2. 1 hour ago, Joshua States said:

    Porter Cable.


    Milwaukee here, main one's going on 25 years old.


    I know a guy who swears by the cheap ones from Harbor Freight. He bought a couple when they were on sale for $10, and bought the extended warranty for another $10. Then when one inevitable fails, if he's in the middle of an important job he uses the spare, then takes the dead one back for a free replacement.  Might get six months out of a good one, might get a week. He's gone through like 30 of the things, all for the original ~$30 investment.  Personally I prefer quality, and I like a paddle switch so it stops if I drop it.  

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  3. 15 hours ago, Jaron Martindale said:

    I got impatient and did some more filing today on the side I had started, and did some "beveling" of the guard as well.


    Do that to the other side as well, it'll save time and saw blades!  Jewelers' saws don't care about a flat surface, but thick stuff is hard on them. Just drill your pilot holes before bevelling, since drills DO like a perpendicular surface...

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  4. You can indeed seal the cord with epoxy. Use a hair dryer to keep the epoxy hot and thin, it'll soak into the cord. If you stop applying the epoxy before it forms a visible pool between the strands, and keep the heat on it for another minute or so, it'll soak into the cord and not leave a mess on the blade.  It's tricky to do well, use a Q-tip or small paintbrush to apply the epoxy and only use a little at a time.  

  5. 12 hours ago, Bill Schmalhofer said:

    Any ideas on maker and age?


    Looks like a Trenton with that long skinny heel, but that's not their mark...  might be an Arm and Hammer.  Both made by the Columbus Forge and Iron Company of Columbus, Ohio.  With the steel face and iron body that dates it to ca. 1898 - 1914.  There should be a serial number on the front foot, when you get the new anvil see if it's there.  If it's an A&H the underside of the heel should be kind of rough, they left them unfinished right off the steam hammer.  Whatever it is, it was indeed the best $50 you ever spent!  


    You will definitely notice a big difference in how much steel you can move with the Holland.  That old anvil probably has excellent rebound, but there's no substitute for mass under the face.  Get ready to grind the edges, though. They come sharp enough to cut yourself on.  

  6. Hey, if the CFO says do it, by all means do it! :lol:


    I was wondering that about the shelf.  I have used one once upon a time, on a 125lb Peddinghaus, and it's a neat thing for certain bends, especially hinge eyes. Anything you want to bend more than 90 degrees without hitting the side of the anvil, really. Plus it gives you a 90 degree inside corner to use as a swedge...  I'd get one if it was an option, it can't hurt.  


    Can you add a set of wheels to one side of the stand such that they're almost touching the floor, and will engage if the stand is tipped about 10 degrees? If so you can fill the stand with sand, steel, gold, or what have you to make a heavier base. I'd say lead but we all know the dangers of that. :rolleyes: Plus gold is a bit heavier!

  7. Anvil shape also makes a difference.  A 100lb farrier's anvil with the long horn, long heel, and tiny waist feels very different from a 100lb English colonial-era anvil with short horn, almost no heel, and all the mass under the face.  The blocky anvil feels more solid and gets more work done.  


    As for shelf, it's handy if you don't have a swage block.  My main anvil is a 220lb Refflinghaus south German pattern with no shelf/step, just like Holland's 240lb double horn.  If I need the step, I have a block that sits in the hardy hole. No big deal, easy to make. 


    That said, just looking at the distribution of mass, the 260lb has it more centered under the face. A friend has the 125lb double horn, and I can vouch for the heat treatment. They're very lively anvils.

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