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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. The second shadow hamon is called utsuri. Hard to tell if that's truly what's there with rhe damascus going on, but most likely it is. I like it, especially the plain antler.
  2. We all have days like that, it's just part of the process. Still annoying, though.
  3. Ooh, shiny! VERY nicely done. I look forward to the sheath.
  4. If you have some brass rod, make a chisel and use that. The brass usually won't scratch the steel. Usually...
  5. That is my understanding. The further east and north you go the more varieties turn up.
  6. +1 for Supergrit. They had the best price for the 50-count sheets last time I checked.
  7. This is all just too cool! When you guys wrap it up this will end up pinned in the History subforum.
  8. "Jambiya" is the Arabic word, Khanjar is the Indo-Persian word.
  9. One simple test to see if it's an austenitic stainless like 300-series or 18-8 etc. is to try to stick a magnet to it. If it sticks, it's hardenable martensitic stainless. If it doesn't, it's austenitic.
  10. That came out great! Looks almost like a really high contrast hamon.
  11. I'd say early 1950s, myself. Score!
  12. That's the decarb line that happens during welding. It's just cosmetic, and it's too late to fix it now. In the future, if you find or suspect you may have two layers of the same alloy touching in a billet, find out for sure before you heat treat. Give it a grind and quick etch. If you see a lighter line where there shouldn't be one, set the forge to a reducing atmosphere and bring the blade to just above critical temperature. Hold for a few minutes, then do a few normalizing cycles. The hold at heat allows carbon migration to take place, which erases the decarb line. Oh, and that line is not between two pieces of 15n20. 15n20 is the naturally bright stuff, and that line is between two pieces of the dark stuff, whatever that is in this billet.
  13. You may be able to get the grain a little finer, but it looks good as-is. That steel is most likely (98% chance) 15n20. Look closely at the band, it may have the word "Uddeholm" lightly etched on it. If so, that's 100% chance it's 15n20. And listen to Chris about the edge, he teaches wood carving!
  14. I can't help with grounding the outlet (and with 240v a three-prong plug is hot-hot-neutral), but the machine ground Joshua mentioned is easy enough. Get some heavy (8 or 10 gauge) copper wire and attach one end to the grinder frame. Run the other end to a ground rod driven into, well, the ground. Ground rods are a 6-foot length of copper-plated 1/2 or 5/8 mild steel round bar. This ensures that in the event of a short the current finds an easier way to ground than through you. Before I did a machine ground on my grinder it would zap me just from static buildup.
  15. All you can do to stabilized wood is sand it fine and buff to a shine. It's mostly plastic, after all.
  16. Love the hybrid techniques, Gary. Whatever works!
  17. Plus I think VFDs require a ground. Not that that's hard to do, just thought I'd mention it.
  18. It occurred to me overnight that you may have been thinking of a vertical heat-treat forge where the blade hangs inside. Those are great, but the guy I was talking about holds the blade horizontally and strokes it back and forth through the body of the forge. The idea behind this kind of vertical forge is that by having the burner at the bottom of a tube and the openings at the top, you get a clean, even heat and reducing atmosphere, plus if you're welding up a billet the flux falls away rather than gobbing on the floor.
  19. That's always an option for longer sections. My pile is of mostly sub-2" chunks.
  20. Yay dog! And yes, a farrier rasp can remove serious steel, especially if the steel is hot.
  21. The forge is just what gives the heat. It's what you do with it that matters.
  22. Hmmm.... IF it holds together you might be able to save it, but it looks like a slightly-too-cold twist is shearing every third twist line towards the left side of the picture. The only way to fix that that I know of 9and I'm open to suggestions!) is to flat-grind until all the scale is gone. This won't leave you with a lot of thickness to work with, and if that is shearing, you'll need to weld it to something else sooner than later. If it's just deep grooves you're good to go. Once you de-scale, of course. I have a small pile of sheared twist sections under the vise. It happens.
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