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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. I like the bone, myself. What did you do to it to get that "antique" look?
  2. For the amount of cash it would take to have a welding shop do what you propose you could buy a new anvil.
  3. Well, you just took it up another notch! Wow! :notworthy: VERY nice inset on the cable, and it looks even better than I'd have thought. Blackwood's a right pain in the rear, isn't it?
  4. What Tim said! You've got an eye for graceful lines, which is half the battle. The other half, of course, is making what you intended. I'm still working on both halves.
  5. As a corollary to this, under no circumstances should you offer non-alcoholic "beer" to a diety!
  6. Use whatever you consider a noble substance. If it's important to you, the Powers that Be will understand. Oh, and Aaryn, the air blast should be directed through the bottom of the fire. You'll need to seal off the bottom of the stove grate, leaving a hole for the air, which should be ducted in through a pipe of some sort. This might work: Replace the stove grate with a steel plate to which you have affixed a 2" pipe flange. Screw a T-fitting into the flange, cap the bottom, and run a two-foot pipe from the center of the Tee out the ash door, where you can then insert the hair dryer. Disconnect the heating element of the dryer and it'll last longer. Don't use galvanized pipe for the flange or the tee, if it gets too hot it makes nastiness.
  7. When I set it up I anointed my forge with Laphroig for smoky, peaty, single-barley malt goodness, and with absinthe (Un Emile 68) for artistic ability. A little tobacco now and then doesn't hurt either! I allow the smoke to go up the chimney, where the winds take it where it will.
  8. When you're messing with elemental forces, and let's face it, in bladesmithing you're trying to master all four of 'em, that takes a deal between you and the gods. They like single malt, offered with due humility.
  9. That's 'cause they don't do that sort of thing (magnetic stirring of thermit steel at upwards of 2600 degrees) in industry, so there's not a ready answer! And the nuclear engineers don't start working with magnetic containment and manipulation until you get upwards of 20,000 degree plasma-state stuff... For an archaeologist I'm a lousy metallurgical physicist! No offense to Bob or Mete, of course. I do appreciate having folks who actually know what's going on at the atomic level in steel around to help. I have had geologists get pissy with me when I ask about iron ore deposits, as they seem to be utterly unable to get their heads around the idea that I'm not after an industrially exploitable source that will produce over 100 tons a minute for years on end, but just a small enough deposit that I can get a few hundred pounds of good weathered ore. Sometimes it seems that the world can be divided into two types of folks when it comes to home smelting of any sort: Those who say "COOL!," and those who ask "why?."
  10. Darn, all I ever get in my forge is a mouse nest!
  11. I use a 1/4-20 threading die, myself.
  12. You gonna line that with ITC-100? Inswool has a nasty habit of shredding into fine airborne dust if you don't, plus it'll give you another hundred degrees or so of temperature range on the top end, always a good thing!
  13. How did I miss this one back in August? :261: Nice one!
  14. Wow! I like the Waki-Seax designation, or a wakiseaxi, maybe? Seaxizashi? Darned cool, whatever you call it. :35: :ylsuper:
  15. Now, THAT oughtta work! So where you gonna get the labor to pump 'em for the three or four hours your smelt's gonna take? Very Robert Michum look on your face, BTW.
  16. Hey Bob, are you the Bob Sherwood I met at the Conner Prairie historic armsmaking workshop in 2000 and 2001? I just saw your name at the bottom of this post and a little bulb went off in my semi-petrified brain. I'm the guy who at the time used to live about 12 miles from Hershel and Frank.
  17. Hmmmm.... Guess I'm such a nerd the last post is usually the last one I've read! That's what a desk job will do for you. Yes, I do know what you're talking about, since I only visit TKN every few days.
  18. Groovy! Now to find a pyrometer that I can afford... I like doing HT in my coal forge, but once the blade length gets over about 18 inches it's darned hard to get the temps even from tip to tang. As I am planning on a few longer blades soon, I need to get ready to HT 'em.
  19. Nice old pot-belly stove, but as you have noticed it really isn't useful as a forge. Tai's forge-b-que is probably the cheapest, most functional forge you could build, and you could do a variant on it if you turned your stove upside down. Do check the thread on books for beginning knifemaking, especially Hrisoulas. I haven't read Goddard's $50 knife shop, but I know he has good info as well. Where there's a will there's a way, and it looks like you have the will! Now you just need a better forge and some tongs. Vice-grips can work, but will scar up your steel more than I care to deal with.
  20. I've been toying with this notion for a while myself. Jesse, does the vertical forge have even heat from top to bottom? At first glance I'd think the heat would rise, leaving the bottom a couple hundred degrees cooler than the top, but I'd be happy to be wrong. I have room for a vertical 55-gallon drum, but not a horizontal one inside the shop.
  21. Having held that sword of Jake's, I can tell you authoritatively there is no-one better to listen to about this subject!
  22. Jon Arthur, if you click on this symbol "" in front of the post title, it does the same thing. Took me a year to figure that out!
  23. My treadle hammer has a 3" solid baseplate, a 4x6" solid anvil, and a 6" round solid head, the back standard is 6" round solid. My drawing dies are a split 1.5" bar. I STILL wouldn't like to draw that long on it! :notworthy:
  24. Based on the two crucible melt/smelts I've helped with at Larry Harley's, I have a question as well: Harley always dumps the button out of the crucible while it's still at a red or higher heat, often pouring off some slag at high yellow first. Do those who know more than I dump the crucible hot, or let the charge cool in place and hope it comes loose later?
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