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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. I can't help with grounding the outlet (and with 240v a three-prong plug is hot-hot-neutral), but the machine ground Joshua mentioned is easy enough. Get some heavy (8 or 10 gauge) copper wire and attach one end to the grinder frame. Run the other end to a ground rod driven into, well, the ground. Ground rods are a 6-foot length of copper-plated 1/2 or 5/8 mild steel round bar. This ensures that in the event of a short the current finds an easier way to ground than through you. Before I did a machine ground on my grinder it would zap me just from static buildup.
  2. All you can do to stabilized wood is sand it fine and buff to a shine. It's mostly plastic, after all.
  3. Love the hybrid techniques, Gary. Whatever works!
  4. Plus I think VFDs require a ground. Not that that's hard to do, just thought I'd mention it.
  5. It occurred to me overnight that you may have been thinking of a vertical heat-treat forge where the blade hangs inside. Those are great, but the guy I was talking about holds the blade horizontally and strokes it back and forth through the body of the forge. The idea behind this kind of vertical forge is that by having the burner at the bottom of a tube and the openings at the top, you get a clean, even heat and reducing atmosphere, plus if you're welding up a billet the flux falls away rather than gobbing on the floor.
  6. That's always an option for longer sections. My pile is of mostly sub-2" chunks.
  7. Yay dog! And yes, a farrier rasp can remove serious steel, especially if the steel is hot.
  8. The forge is just what gives the heat. It's what you do with it that matters.
  9. Hmmm.... IF it holds together you might be able to save it, but it looks like a slightly-too-cold twist is shearing every third twist line towards the left side of the picture. The only way to fix that that I know of 9and I'm open to suggestions!) is to flat-grind until all the scale is gone. This won't leave you with a lot of thickness to work with, and if that is shearing, you'll need to weld it to something else sooner than later. If it's just deep grooves you're good to go. Once you de-scale, of course. I have a small pile of sheared twist sections under the vise. It happens.
  10. If you're happy with it I am. Certainly not more rounded. Ease those corners on the wood and see how it feels in the hand.
  11. Length for forging is unlimited, it's width and how much room you have to swing a long bar that limit you there. For heat treating, an 11" hot spot can easily do a 42" blade, up to 60 if you do your part. It's just a matter of stroking the blade back and forth to get an even heat. A buddy of mine does katanas in a 4" hot spot in a vertical forge. Tempering is where long blades get annoying.
  12. Contact your guild. Their HQ may be four hours away, but my guild has members spread across a couple hundred miles too. And I'd go so far as to say the ratio of smiths online to not is more like 1:20. And definitely ask your local guys. Be polite, show what you've done so far. I bet you'll get some help.
  13. High carbon does weld about 150 degrees cooler than mild. Not quite enough that you'd notice, in other words. Very bright yellow just short of white.
  14. You need to build a big cupola furnace...
  15. Nicely done! It does look great.
  16. What Gary said. Or you could do a really deep etch, cold blue, then wipe off the high spots. But the 1075/15n20 combo will weld like a dream.
  17. Oh yeah, I forgot he did that from time to time. There's a spike hawk under my forge with that effect around the eye because the edge end of the body refused to weld at the eye, so I tried copper brazing it. But, unlike yours, it doesn't look deliberate. Did you use a lathe on that bowl, or is it hand filed? Just curious, I always like to compare notes with other hawk guys.
  18. Our built-in search is not the best, so if I told you to use that I really would be telling you to bugger off! I will tell you to read this thread, there's a list of UK suppliers on it: Even better, go take a class from Owen, actually learning the techniques and using the equipment will set you years ahead. If you had a 2 x 72 I'd give you a long list, but as that is a 6 x 48 your choices become far easier. You have three or four abrasive choices, and 12 grits to choose from, whereas with 2 x 72 you have hundreds. Here's a link to a site in the US that sells belts to give you an idea of what's available: https://trugrit.com/product-category/abrasives/abrasive-belts/abrasive-belts-by-size/6x48/ Ceramic grit is the most aggressive for the longest, but you have to use a lot of pressure to keep it cutting or it will glaze over. Zirconia is very similar. Then there's silicon carbide, which is good, but not as good as the first two, then aluminum oxide, which is merely okay for metal, but is great on wood. Also, on that machine you can raise or lower the belt part, it can be run vertical, horizontal, or anywhere in between. Then there's always files and sandpaper, which is all I used for years. Slow, but it works.
  19. Nice dendrites, Jan! I hope they forge out well for you.
  20. Welcome aboard! I like that second hawk. I've never done one of those later ones with the diamond-section eye. Is that brazing rod on the first two, or is it that stuff they put on horseshoes for traction? Interesting effect.
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