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Alan Longmire

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Everything posted by Alan Longmire

  1. Fair enough. I'm sending off that hawk I posted a while back, so I doubt I'll have anything to show either, but dang, I wish I could see one of those beauties in person! Super
  2. All the post vises I've played with can be unscrewed until the screw just drops out. Not saying they all do, of course. Persistance!
  3. I saw the other post first and resonded to that one before i saw this one... I am now officially blown away, and may never find my socks again...Tell me you're gonna bring them all to Harley's, please?
  4. Not Worthy  You're gonna bring that to Harley's, I hope? Super
  5. PB B'laster is a penetrating oil(?) based stuff that stinks to high heaven but also will penetrate and free up stuff like nobody's business. For some reason it is found at auto parts stores only, at least around here. I was given a hand-crank forge blower last spring that had been sitting outside for 20 years and was, of course, frozen up. I took off the gear cover and soaked it all down with B'laster, repeated every few hours, along with dainty taps on the main fan shaft. It broke free in under 24 hours, and is now my main blower. I'd get a can and hose down the screw every day for a week, tap on the end lightly each time, and if it CAN be broken free that'll do it. If it's a total rust weld deep into the housing, the screw is screwed. Good luck!
  6. PB B'laster is better than liquid wrench for me. Other than that, maybe light taps with a hammer? Or soak it in a bucket of kerosene for a couple of weeks. Patience is about all that works, really.
  7. I am SO lucky because I live about 45 minutes from Harley! That said, in my opinion the best airports are: Tri-Cities regional in Blountville, TN (very close indeed, like 20 minutes out); second, Knoxville, TN, AKA McGhee-Tyson Airport, initials TYS, two hours southwest; then it's a draw between Nashville, TN, Charlotte, NC, and Roanoke, VA, each ranging from three to five hours drive. Those who have flown here can answer better than I. I'm just so darn pleased to be meeting the lot of you AND at Harley's I can hardly type straight, much less forge straight... :laugh:
  8. I'm with Dean. I'm not a fine smith, just a beater of steel, but I like what I see! Good one.
  9. I used to do artifact photos for archaeology reports. My setup was very much like Coop's, except I used the elevated frosted glass tabletop to remove unwanted shadows. It worked very well for black & white prints, not so hot for color slides. I found one thing with the lighting that can really make the surface relief pop is to leave one side of the diffusion tent open, and direct a strong flood at just above tabletop level for an oblique lighting effect. With the ground glass tabletop, there are no shadows. I didn't use strobes, just a bunch of floods and softboxes. My "tabletop" was just a 24" x 30" sheet of glare-free glass from the frame shop, supported on the corners by 35mm film cans. I used different colors of mat board under the glass depending on what I was shooting. I've kind of gotten away from photography, since I can't make the digital camera I have do what I liked to do with my old full-manual 35mms or the 4x5 press camera (Busch pressman D with double-extension bellows and a Linhof Technica 155mm Schneider lens). I'm also better at macro work than larger objects like what I make now. Bang Head
  10. Are Chupacabras edible? Lots of cabrito on the hoof around here these days, you never know when I may catch El Chupacabra himself... ???
  11. Oh, my..... Super Not Worthy
  12. Nice! Sort of a modified raindrop/pool-and-eye thing going on there. Did you do that with punches or drills?
  13. Right on. If everybody liked the same thing it would be a very boring world. I do like the curves. I like many curvy things, actually...
  14. Well, there's no accounting for taste, as they say. I also just finished a firescreen that was just a bandsaw-and-arc-weld job of straight lines. No soul at all, and the customer even said she didn't want any sign it was hand made. Her money spent good, though. Are you going to use the same sort of pinning system? I like the look of that.
  15. Or you could always get a new one from Rob Frinck at Beaumont... :cool:
  16. I'd actually use the switches to start my coal stove! Go ahead and send 'em, I'm running low! LOVE the "gray turd" comment. It captures everything this knife isn't. Nothing turns me off faster than angularity, bead blasting, and G-10. Not to knock what anyone else is making, but if I want a knife that looks factory-made and mechanical, I'll get one from a factory. ::
  17. Egad! That's almost enough to make me retire! Super Not Worthy
  18. There's so many recipes and formulas for pewter that just about any alloy of mostly tin can be used and still be called "pewter." A lot of folks use Nickelite brand babbitt. Lead-free plumbing solder, at least the kind that's also cadmium-free, is almost identical to Brittania pewter. It seems to me to have a higher surface tension than the leaded formulae. I've been known to add up to 5% lead to improve castability, but I don't do that on things that will be extensively handled or put in someone's mouth. I melt it in a homemade steel ladle with a propane torch, using a dab of beeswax for casting flux.
  19. I like the concept and I like the knife. 'Bout time somebody put some soul into a tactical. ::
  20. If I leave a belt on my KMG with the tension applied, it can stretch unevenly and start to wobble a bit. BUT, it's so darned easy to take the tension off (just a 1/4 twist of a lever) I've learned not to do that. Since the drive wheel and tracking wheel are so exposed, it's also very easy to make sure the belt is aligned dead center. They're high-crowned wheels, which makes it even easier! I have the plain flat platen on mine with a ceramic platen liner, and a 1hp non-reversible motor with the 3-speed step pulley arrangement. Not as simple as turning a knob to adjust speed, but more than adequate for what I want.
  21. Oh, another plus for the ceramic is you can JBweld it right onto your existing platen and not have to worry about getting the mounting bolt holes right on a replacement. A 2" wide by 8" long piece of ceramic costs about $8, If I remember right, which I may not. Cheap, at any rate.
  22. Raymond, I'm not sure what you mean by coloring the pewter. After the nitric acid stain is used on the wood, the pewter turns a soft sort of "French gray" color, which if left unpolished will turn black. That's with the lead-free stuff I'm using, I've used traditional leaded pewter as well, and it doesn't turn black. I'm not sure what other patina options are open for pewter of various formulas. I like to use pure tin when I can get it, or 98% Sn 2%Pb, but lead scares people so I am now using 95% tin, 4% antimony, 1% silver, AKA lead-free plumbing solder. It's fun to play with, at any rate!
  23. Thanks! Yes, the pewter banding and mouthpiece were carved out, then I used thin cardboard (a pop-tart box) as a damming/mold agent and poured the molten pewter into place. Fast and effective. The snake and lightning bolt are silver, more for effect than anything else. I also just like silver!
  24. KMGs come with a mild steel platen and nobody complains about them! Were I you I'd get one of those ceramic platen liners from Darren Ellis. They don't dish out and they're slicker than (insert favorite colorful comparison here)!
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