dragoncutlery

Got further in to troubleshooting the big hammer it was binding when rotated ends up front pin to lift lower the head was binding took apart and there was a bit of rust and oil pack looked further and ill be needing to make two pivot/toggle bushings though they were worn ends up there missing i might try hdpe rather than bronze as it doesnt move a bunch.....last photo is one of the two it has out of four that it should have

any idea the size of the scales in the photos ?

You make a coil that only goes along the cutting edge ive seen it somewhere maybe youtube

wait paper what?

if you dont own the space a 25-50lb little giant or similar can be set on lumber to protect the slab i cant help you with noise as thats subjective but a smaller hammer will have less bounce to the room its in so you will knock over less stuff with a 25 than a 50 and so on i think my 50lb little giant is rated abound 320bpm thats 5.34ps if my american school system math skills are up to par i almost think you are focusing on the wrong specs wile trying to figure out what you need and i dont know how to help you in that regard heres a spec sheet f

you got galvanized steel cut your shapes out then soak in strong vinegar till the zincs all gone then its safe to heat and beat i do this when i need to weld pipe for a project and their out of what i need in black pipe

no one gonna say anything about oog having a kaybar??????

I add shalow notches to my tangs and have started sand blasting tangs and the under side of guards before glue up before i did the blasting i didnt have any issues it just made sense to me as i have the blaster for other uses to add it to the prosses

Not at the sizes your working if the broch is sized right each tooth is just shaving a bit of material at a time not 1/8 inch passes

Ill go down to 1/8 for smaller stuff and 1/4 for bigger and start stacking with spacers if i need it to look beefy

shape the key or file it or broach it you don't need a heavy press you can even use a hand hammer its not tool steel your broaching even a drill press can be used when i broached a slot i bought the bushing to match the bore and made a broach from the same stock i wanted to fit (think it was 304 ss) i just filed/ground it till it looked like a broach you will need shims to do the dead but there easier to make than the broach

I use a bit of angle iron that i tack welded a shelf on and use mini cant twist clamps to hold the knife in place it does require that your platen or work rest is adjustable to work also helps if your work rest is on the wide side

I got some of the yellow uvex ir lenses and they are clear and make my eyes feel relaxed even just having them on let alone when forging and they dont make the room as dark downside the ones that work wont fit over regular glasses (found a over lens supposed to be the same rating but got sun spots trying them out) im testing some orange ones next that will fit over my glasses with slight mods

zercote as is or boxelder burl colored and stabilized but i dont like "plain woods" but im fine with antler??? so anything with color or swirls plain woods are ok oak plain maple but they invite carving or engraving and i aint got time for that little hint thin metals for a guard tend to look amateurish/importy and are more likely to bend when you least want it to even on a finished knife depending on use you can stack it up with spacer material or additional layers of metal for a more pro look but the top layer i stick with at least 1/8 unless your meaning a ferrule then thin is

if thats a basment get a co detector if its not get one anyway they can save your life forges put out a ton of co make sure you have air flow were ever you forge