dragoncutlery

very carefully ......i use a disk sander to make sure my handle material and any brass or thick spacers are flat you can also use sandpaper on a granite plate or any flat surface (no plywood doesn't count) and hand sand till flat i recommend a tacky temp adhesive on the sheet goods to avoid rolling at the edges from the sanding motion and final passes should be single direction prolly short strokes thats not as important on a block that will end up with the corners knocked off but critical on a mostly or fully shaped guard or bolster that wont be trimmed up

aww

i did an integral ti folder handle the only way i could get it to bend the way i wanted was to clamp in my vice and heat were i wanted it to bend with a oxy torch and tighten the vice worked out grate but as soon as i read cold work i knew there would be trouble

yes the replacement is the contact point on the bar it does last a wile but even with the carbonizing i did to mine after two years of edc it has some play. on ebay try using bar or plate as search terms for thicker than 1/8 ti

first mc masters has a bit of everything but they make you pay for it i would look at ebay for ti no heat treat and nothings going to hurt it if your fancy i do recommend a replaceable contact point for the lock bar as ti has a tendency to lock up to well i carbidize mine but i only get a few years of constant use before it starts to show were

I believe so making it a good area to build a lime kiln

I thought it odd it's on a maintained trail of sorts with signage about the land and waterfall at the center of the trails but didnt say anything about the kiln or the caves in the rock around it

It's hard to tell its kinda filled up over the years trees leafs and debris but lime kiln makes sense

Seen this on the way to a waterfall any ideas what it was used for had a walk up on the top and a brick lined cylinder shape running from top to bottom

Hedding to mt airy nc this weekend any knife related stuff to do or see in the area I'll be there for about a week

had a similar issue with an auburn instruments not reading high enough gave them a call and the guy on the phone talked me threw setting it up to read higher see if you can get a call in to ink bird

well im not familer with the jflex per say but a butt joint is were the abrasive butts up to its self and a lap joint the abrasive over laps its self and makes for one hell of a bumpy ride and should be avoided at all costs there used to be a few places that sold a like graphite covered strip that you could cover your platen with that had enough give to maybe deal with a bit of bump and reduce running friction i have been running a 01 platen unhardened for about 15 years now just needs to be trued up from time to time

are you getting butt joined or lap joined belts?

auburn instruments is were i get my pid controllers i got one off ebay/amazon to save a bunch of money and used it to control a toaster oven to dry wood and almost burnt the oven up it was over 100deg f off and i could not get it to adjust to correct never had that issue with the auburn even with other suppliers thermocuples

when it has dried a bit the bark will be easier to chip off and some of the burl guys use pressure washers to remove bark .......not sure if after its dried for a bit or when its fresh tho if you have the ability or can get them to do it cut one side flat so you wont have to lean in to the anvil as much as if its left full round ... if that makes sense