dragoncutlery

a 50 hp motor costs more per minute to run than a 7 hp motor by a few magnitudes assuming you have 3 phase to run it not sure you can run a tru 50 on single phase if your pump fails its most likly going to cost more to replace than one that can be run by a 7hp

Jesus wax on wax off maybe you can play with the internal settings (peramiters) sounds like it might be to fast or to slow seeing as it works with a heat sink but not open air only think i had to do with theones from the link was set a peramiter to go over 999f

Solid state relays are your frends when working with pids more than happy to take photos of any of my pid setups if you wana compare wiring

im using one of those floor drying fans very concentrated air flow lots of air something like that might help but your pump could be on its way out here is the link to were i get my kiln controllers you can rig up a toaster oven or a electric smoker with one and a thremocouple and dry your wood or update your burn out oven also good for tempering they make one with a timer so it can shut off after whatever time you set it for http://www.auberins.com/

Curtis pretty much wrote the book on home stabilising if you want the best results read and re read the info on his site and that he sends with the product if you deviate from the info know that your results will vary

Watch an hvac guy vac a system they dont get to vac and shut a valve they run the oump till there done

Cj doesnt off gas all your pulling is air or water vapor from the wood If you stop vacume yes it starts to allow cj in but when u start again yes not quite at the beginning but what might have only took 3days is now 3 and a half days

one try running a fan at your pump wile its working you also might try changing the oil two the temp to dry wood at is 220f use a digital readout kiln it if you can until it stops losing weight so get a good digital scale i have a small block that has been different weights every 8 hours for the last 5 times i have checked it (right the current weight on it when ever you check) also store in a zip lock wile it cools or for longer storage it will get moisture from the air and un do all the baking and curtis always says leave it under vacuum till it stops bubbling if you shut it off you are basically starting from scratch you can email curtis direct from his website and he will be more than happy to answer any questions you have he has even been known to talk ppl threw pump rebuilds he also has a group on facebook that he is active in

i use a compass to mark the grove and spacing 1/16 drill bit to make the holes go back with a v grover made from small diameter garage door spring then its waxed thread of choice and twin needles followed by some edge trim with the belt grinder or bandsaw if i left a lot on and then to the home made edger/beveler as i broke my moms old one and tandy doesn't make the same quality they used to just some round stock tweaked and hear treated to do the job then you can slick the edge or not to preference

if you want to home stabilize wood and do a good job get cactus juice if you wana screw around you can try just about anything but if its not vacuum impregnated and heat polymerizing its not stabilizing like we have come to know its just a treatment

He has a bader and a wilton square wheel just waiting to see what he has to go with them

https://www.zoro.com/dayton-belt-grinder-34hp-120240v-735a-2x48-2ryn7/i/G2178741/?q=2RYN7 try zoro for all your grainger needs its owned by grainger better shipping and most of the time cheaper?????

i have done a few brut finishes in the day and have liked some of the stuff thats out there what gets my goat (and i love my goats) is stock guys who ding up there blades and call it a finish, cross peen marks on the flats is not an astetic you hammer dropping noob .........sorry

the magnetic catches are going to be over ridden with steel dust in short order

you can also do a guard and wrap up under it as you go the attached is what i call confetti micarta its strips of cotton based fabric and was wrapped epoxy wet (so similar ) on to the tang with the pin added later for looks i bagged it up and wood block clamped it to reduce air bubbles and then worked it as normal