dragoncutlery

thats some good looking cable

grind the weld off the top of the bar and lay a piece of that tube all the way across it and stick weld it to the frame 20 tons will bent flat bar easier than tube also the stick weld has a lot more potential for strength than the flux or mig welding when building a press its go big or go home

heres a bad image of a simple jig that can help establish angles for your bevels move it in to bring the grind back on the blade move it out to leave it higher on the blade

mild will not snap like that

i literally got kicked out from a knife makers forum on Facebook for answering this question i may have been a bit more expressive on how i felt about 43rc for knives tho i was cable tv safe it wasn't enough

i have some variable tooth blades and i tried to cut some thin ti and striped off all the coarse teeth i feel yah

well yours is almost as far away different from mine at 50h 240 but if it stops suddenly and wont start up theirs a chance the 'fuse tripped' it just doesn't look like a fuse

if its similar to the harbor freight i will say a few things after running mine for almost 8 years the motor quite on me ends up it has a thermal fuse in it i added a resetable type at a lower temp setting and look forward to many more years of use some ppl make seats to clamp in the vice to make long setions more comfortable and theirs is a good likelihood that if you remove the locking wheel for the blade guide that there is another hole that you can use to get the upper guide closer to the work wich helps when using as a chop saw wich i was absolutely giddy with its ability to do finally i could cut something to length wile doing something else also i put off looking in the gear box for way to long the grease that was in mine was like pine tar i scraped and diluted it out as best i could then added a proper level of 80-90w

that will work but if you have a scrap yard near you you could probubly get a larger chunk for less there for a base i would build a hollow box tall enough to get to your hammering hight fill it full of concreat and set your anvil object in to that that will keep it at hight and keep it from walking around on you

2x4s and ply wood are your friends when in need of a work bench vacuum is for stabilizing pressure is for resins and you will want a proper vacuum pump as it needs to run some times for days to do a quality job for resins you only need to keep it under pressure till its right and proper set up or the air bubbles will reinflate you will burn up a food saver trying to get to the level of vacuum you need to hold and prolly never reach it the cheep harbor freight vacuum pumps are entirely acdquitte and rebuild able i highly recommend turntex if any one wants to do it your self

ill take 23.75 shipped and not a penny more :p

im doing all of it casting stabilizing collecting burls ect i hope some day to break even kind of like knife making stabilized and cast knife blank size im hoping to get $20 for it some day

i did a wright up years ago on what i saw as how to grind at the time there's still some usable info there learn to grind and you can fix bad hammering learn to hammer and you can do less grinding http://dragoncutlery.com/grind.html

white to N black to L pos to positive neg to neg motor to motor pos and neg if it sucks switch the wires put a switch between the controller and the power source some of the cheep controllers can burn out if operated before there at full supply

the trick to the tricky part is not to grind past the center once you cross that line it will try to spin the item out of your hand but a good disk grinder is essential to getting a good fit up with bolsters and guards ie i wouldn't make a knife without one you think you can get flat on a belt grinder but i can make two pieces of wood stick together using a disk sander