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Everything posted by dragoncutlery

  1. very carefully ......i use a disk sander to make sure my handle material and any brass or thick spacers are flat you can also use sandpaper on a granite plate or any flat surface (no plywood doesn't count) and hand sand till flat i recommend a tacky temp adhesive on the sheet goods to avoid rolling at the edges from the sanding motion and final passes should be single direction prolly short strokes thats not as important on a block that will end up with the corners knocked off but critical on a mostly or fully shaped guard or bolster that wont be trimmed up
  2. i did an integral ti folder handle the only way i could get it to bend the way i wanted was to clamp in my vice and heat were i wanted it to bend with a oxy torch and tighten the vice worked out grate but as soon as i read cold work i knew there would be trouble
  3. yes the replacement is the contact point on the bar it does last a wile but even with the carbonizing i did to mine after two years of edc it has some play. on ebay try using bar or plate as search terms for thicker than 1/8 ti
  4. first mc masters has a bit of everything but they make you pay for it i would look at ebay for ti no heat treat and nothings going to hurt it if your fancy i do recommend a replaceable contact point for the lock bar as ti has a tendency to lock up to well i carbidize mine but i only get a few years of constant use before it starts to show were
  5. I believe so making it a good area to build a lime kiln
  6. I thought it odd it's on a maintained trail of sorts with signage about the land and waterfall at the center of the trails but didnt say anything about the kiln or the caves in the rock around it
  7. It's hard to tell its kinda filled up over the years trees leafs and debris but lime kiln makes sense
  8. Seen this on the way to a waterfall any ideas what it was used for had a walk up on the top and a brick lined cylinder shape running from top to bottom
  9. Hedding to mt airy nc this weekend any knife related stuff to do or see in the area I'll be there for about a week
  10. had a similar issue with an auburn instruments not reading high enough gave them a call and the guy on the phone talked me threw setting it up to read higher see if you can get a call in to ink bird
  11. well im not familer with the jflex per say but a butt joint is were the abrasive butts up to its self and a lap joint the abrasive over laps its self and makes for one hell of a bumpy ride and should be avoided at all costs there used to be a few places that sold a like graphite covered strip that you could cover your platen with that had enough give to maybe deal with a bit of bump and reduce running friction i have been running a 01 platen unhardened for about 15 years now just needs to be trued up from time to time
  12. are you getting butt joined or lap joined belts?
  13. auburn instruments is were i get my pid controllers i got one off ebay/amazon to save a bunch of money and used it to control a toaster oven to dry wood and almost burnt the oven up it was over 100deg f off and i could not get it to adjust to correct never had that issue with the auburn even with other suppliers thermocuples
  14. when it has dried a bit the bark will be easier to chip off and some of the burl guys use pressure washers to remove bark .......not sure if after its dried for a bit or when its fresh tho if you have the ability or can get them to do it cut one side flat so you wont have to lean in to the anvil as much as if its left full round ... if that makes sense
  15. you obliviously did not get to see my early work every hammer mark was visible when done
  16. weld your billets with a press and the weld on the handle will hold a ton better
  17. that point on the bolster looks like it was supposed to be a guard
  18. i remember reading about some one doing a line in ss might have been 440 but its been maybe 12 years since i read about it but it would be beyond a coal forge
  19. you can have hamon or you can have stainless or you can have easy heat treat you can pick one but you cant have it all thats why there are so many metals are used in knife work
  20. well for a chopping knife i would do a much smother guard thats going to chew up the hands pretty quick and with the handle tapering off the pommel it will interfere with the retention and you usually want a flare or a kick out on the end to keep the knife in hand wile swinging a bump to pivot the knife off your pinky wile swinging can add oomph to a swing https://acc-cdn.azureedge.net/accliveimages/0008667_gigantic-ceremonial-kukri_550.jpeg https://images.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/condor/images/CN3915133n.jpg https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0019/0948/9729/products/Fiddleback_Forge_Machete_Duo_-_1_400x400.png?v=1528867446
  21. thats some good looking cable
  22. grind the weld off the top of the bar and lay a piece of that tube all the way across it and stick weld it to the frame 20 tons will bent flat bar easier than tube also the stick weld has a lot more potential for strength than the flux or mig welding when building a press its go big or go home
  23. heres a bad image of a simple jig that can help establish angles for your bevels move it in to bring the grind back on the blade move it out to leave it higher on the blade
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