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Everything posted by Brice

  1. Thanks to both of you, Josh and Daniel.
  2. I am deeply curious about methods for polishing and revealing the pattern in mokume gane. Is that something this tutorial might cover?
  3. That's nice looking. It has an almost oceanic look to it.
  4. Wow. That's just beautiful. Nice work on the bolsters, Scott. I really like the belduque in general, and I had not known the bolsters were welded on. That's pretty cool.
  5. Hi, Daniel. I'm over in Arvada. I get to smith occasionally. we might be able to chat or do some smithing. Peace. Brice
  6. Thanks a bunch guys. Tyler, no worries on time. I teach full time during the week, so it was largely academic for a while, since I wouldn't have time much either. James your directions are also well taken. I'll give both a try. So, more wood ash, less clay and maybe some sand in the clay to aid minimizing shrinkage. Let's see what happens. Also, I have to remember that I live in a mostly arid climate and that affects the way things dry too. This week will be good for those kinds of issues, though. We just got our annual average of rainfall in the last week. Best regards Brice
  7. hmmm. ok. Are there other basic additives I can use? Such as ashes, charcoal or something similar? I read that some japanese smiths use a blend of charcoal, clay, ashes and water. Not that sand isn't available. That will work. what ratios should I be looking for?
  8. Hello, Together. I have a bit of a quandary. I have been trying to mix together a clay slurry for clay-tempering some of Aldo's 1075. However, once the clay dries, it also cracks and flakes off, becoming useless. How do I not have this happen? Is it the mixture of the slurry I am using? Is it just the clay itself?
  9. Thanks very much to Alan and Chuck. that was exactly what I was hoping for. I had a copy of Fur trade Cutlery... and now I can't find it. Thanks again. Brice
  10. So, a customer has just asked me to put a handle on his reproduction of one of these critters, and I am curious about the methods that would have been used. I was originally going to use osage orange for the handle, but now I wonder if maple wouldn't be more appropriate? Would it just be two slabs that are carved out to fit the tang with holes drilled for rivets? Any suggestions would be useful. Thanks, Brice
  11. That's pretty sweet-looking, Geoff. I really like the forge finish on the body of the head, and the tacks work really well.
  12. Thanks for posting this Sam. I have struggled with tong making a lot, and this helps me see the mistakes I have been making. Peace.
  13. I would like one too, and now would be a good time. Keep us posted. How many are you hoping to have orders for?
  14. Wow! That's really sweet! May it see lots of use.
  15. I loved the videos... Highly educational and motivational. Thanks to you for putting them online and to Jared S. for having them show up in my news feed. They're awesome. Merci Beaucoups. Brice
  16. According to David Edge, the transition from seax to dagger takes place somewhere in the 1100s (12th century), and while the dagger as we know it took a bunch of different design shapes during that transition, by the end of the century, it's pretty much settling down into what we know now.
  17. That is a really slick piece, Dave. I really like the exotic flare it has... maybe you need to make a sword that mirrors it...
  18. This is a really good first forged blade. I like the lines and symmetry, and the color combinations work really well. Just as an aside, I have been wondering about a bunch of us posting the first knives we have made. I would be willing to bet that most of our first attempts don't look this good.
  19. That's nice, Chris. Would I be right in guessing it's meant as an armor piercer?
  20. I like all of the knives you are showing on this page, quite a lot. I am looking forward to seeing more work done on them. Keep us posted.
  21. This is a really nicely made blade. I love the handle and the polish you got on the blade. Excellent work, sir.
  22. Brent, were the terns stoned, because you're not supposed to leave them unstoned. Couldn't resist.
  23. That certainly is a fine piece of cutlery! I especially like the hamon and the walnut has great depth. Looking forward to seeing more!
  24. Thanks to both of you. You have provided me with much to consider, including looking closely at the Colorado law. The article on cutting boards was illuminating, and made for some interesting food for thought. At this point, it sounds like I can reasonably use G-10, although I am really not outfitted to work it. I could also use stabilized woods, which I believe another full-time kitchen cutler uses as his sole grip material. Hm... more to ponder. Thanks a bunch. Brice
  25. @Matt, okay, I wasn't sure if stabilized wood fit into the category or not. I don't think of Micarta as impermeable to bacteria because of it's cloth makeup. I honestly don't know enough about the manufacturing process to understand whether or not it will harbor bacteria. If not, then it might just be the ticket. I like the look of stabilized wood a lot better than Micarta, but it does have the benefit of looking a lot like ivory. @Brian. That is similar to the finish I use, and while it works well for the home kitchen where the cook is in the position to clean their knife and put it
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