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About Zoe

  • Birthday 06/17/1971

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    Marlinton, West Virginia

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  1. thanks for your input. I will keep that in mind when making more.. again .. thanks !!
  2. I would like some design critiques on this new line I am working on. They are simple and seriously functional. They would be a low end version.. By low end I mean by price point. With each knife I conducted the ABS test. Shaving, rope cutting, chopping 2x4, shaving again.. Obviously skipped the bend test :-) the knives are 1095 and the Hamon one is 1075-1080. All are hand forged. All are 3/16" thick, top two are about 6" long and the bottom one is 5" long. I'am curious to get others opinions and suggestions.. thanks for looking
  3. Zoe

    A Few New Ones

    thanks guys.. And Don I also am looking forward to studying with you. This has been a life long dream of mine since i started my passion for Damascus when i was 17.. very cool.. and thanks again.. Zoe
  4. I have a few new knife styles that I wanted to share. the one with Mokume came out "ok" but the ones I did since have hidden screws and smaller screws that hold the scales.. This was an experiment and a learning process. The fixed blades are a san mai cord wrap and explosion with california buckeye burl. The folders start at 450 and the mokume is 775. The explosion and california buckeye is 375, and the san mai is 400.. I will post details soon.. I forgot them in the shop when I came in you can also see them at the whats new section on my site. Thanks for looking everyone and I also appreciate any feedback anyone might have .. thank you
  5. Thanks for looking everyone.. this knife is sold, but i have 3 more new models in the works and soon to be completed... Zoe
  6. Are you using gas ? Years ago Don Fogg told me a good little hint. When the flux starts to bubble and the bubbles start dancing.. then its ready to weld. Dont weld at the first sight of bubbles dancing, let them get going and really excited. Watch them and play around with different bubble activity and then weld and see which temps work good for you. After you get the feel of your forge and what it looks like inside you can judge and it is easy. Also when the steel comes up to the color of the inside of the forge that is another indicator...As David said, try some 1080 if you have it.. its a bit easier to weld.. good luck
  7. thanks a lot don..I sent you a PM.. Zoe
  8. Thank you Richard.. I appreciate your comments and compliment. I want to venture into other folder types, but the frame lock is a good place to start for me due to the construction.. again, thank you
  9. thanks Dave.. It was a trip learning how to do it, I know where i made mistakes and what i want to do differently. But i guess that is true with every blade, right ? I am working on some more now to improve on it..thanks again !! Zoe
  10. I have just completed my first folder. It is complete sole authorship, except pocket clip. With MUCH help and long phone calls with Wally Hayes of hayesknives.com and of course feather inspiration from Kevin Casey. It is a frame lock with Titanium frame handle, silicon bronze washers, hardened stainless steel 3/16 press fit stop and spacer, lathe turned stainless steel rear spacer and mosaic explosion lathe turned thumb stud. Hardened 3/16 stainless steel pivot. Blade steel is 1095 and 15n20. Titanium is blue/grey anodized and glass bead blasted, hard to see the color in my poor photos (I will take better ones tomorrow, I am just excited and wanted to post. The lock is tight and it is a good true fit and opens easy and stays closed nice. Stainless steel pocket clip with tip up in pocket. These are going to run around $450, some cheaper with different options. I am taking pre-orders if anyone is interested. the reason I am doing pre-orders is I have 3 people that ordered them and want to get the materials ordered, i.e. titanium. I also will have other models and different handle options soon, or will work to anyone custom ideas you might have.. thanks for looking, this is exciting overall 6 7/8" blade 2 15/16" Handle 3 15/16" Closed 3 15/16"
  11. Beautiful.. Feathers are addicting arent they ?.. Great job, cant wait to see the piece it will become. thanks for sharing with us !! Zoe
  12. Zoe

    New Damascus

    First... I would love to share and i will share anything i know till the day I die as I have been given great help all along my way Ok, it is basically a feather with a medium count and then drawn all the way out instead of sliced. Let me explain, weld up 36 alternating layers, I used 1095 and L6. Then draw it out into a bar about 2" x 2", then slice that bar into 3/4" slabs. So now you have 2"x 2"x 3/4" thick. Stack those up making sure to keep the bar stacked in the same order it was cut so all your parallel layer are still going the same. The weld that stack up, I use a press. The I use a hot cutter and press in a hot cut all the way through the billet until about 1/2" from the bottom so it will stay together. Keep in mind that this is all being done vertically because the billet is tall, the 2x2 piece are stacked up, not out. Then after the hot cut, I quickly flux the cut and hammeer it closed then take another welding heat and weld the seam closed. The hot cutter i dull on purpose to "smear" the cut and not cut clean. So after the weld you can see how the layer smeared down the center of the billet. The I drew this billet out from about 5" long to around 20" and thats why the pattern is elegant and long instead of tight like the one below. There are many great makers who have worked on the feather pattern and Kevin Casey has taught me a lot. everyone does it a little differnt and this is one of my own. the ones above with the micarta handles are a "w" feather that was sliced so as to keep the pattern tight same technique to make it though. Hope it helps... Zoe
  13. Zoe

    New Damascus

    thank you very much. He is a true delight Zoe
  14. Zoe

    New Damascus

    Thank you very much for your kind words.. They are very encouraging
  15. Zoe

    New Damascus

    what I do it use a ball end dentist burr bit to make the design and then dip a tooth pick in ferric chloride and paint in the groove, then I take a hard silver solder brazing rod which has a lot of copper in it and sharpen it to a point and then scrap in the groove and the ferric disolves the copper and plates it to the steel.. Hope that explains it. I alos do a similar techniche using cold blue solution which gives it a nice blue/black look... Zoe
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