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Fox Creek

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Everything posted by Fox Creek

  1. I HATE IT when that happens. I do feel your pain It was not clear to me if the , er, uh, design change, happened before or after HT. I assume you were trying to tweak a hardened & tempered blade. My shop rules are that you can COLD tweak 10895/1084, even to the point of putting a pipe wrench on it to untwist a blade. You may not, under any circumstances, attempt to "tweak" 1095 cold AT ALL. Warm it up to a blue heat locally and you can tweak the H*** out of it.
  2. Freeking wonderful. Speechless, really.
  3. Freaking amazing is right Jake. I cant wait to see the niello work. Sit at my table anytime.
  4. I LIKE that bluejean "micarta" Beau. Nice work, Stephan. Is it sharp? (I'm sure it is.)
  5. Great work guys, all around! You are lucky to have the brotherhood of the Dwarves, cherish it and enjoy it. Plus you guys do look so darn MAD Great graphics on the logo/sign too! The quality of the carving has a lot to do with the wood in my experience. A softer wood needs big, bold, knotty knot work, a fine interlace requires a fine grained harder wood to hold the detail. Carving knot work in coarse, open grained wood like red oak will rid you of any tendency to mis-placed fussyness and is great practice!
  6. Thanks all. I find the octagonal handles work well (feel good in the hand) and are very versatile and adapatable. Ya, Ray the camera works fine, I had to re-learn somethings and correct some file name errors to link the image. I've got to plug in the old box and see if I can recover my FTP client (he said client! ) I had once upon a time. Holler at me Larry. If the Governor lays us all off before the new fiscal year , I may have PLENTY of time to do this stuff.
  7. This is the first one finished this year. I was so lazy last year and it was sooo hot, and I had to rebuild the stack and hood on my forge, etc...I promise to do more this year. "just shy of of 9" in the blade, 1085, Wrought Iron guard plate and pommel, mild steel ferrule; through tang is peened over into button head in center of pommel. The customer furnished the Maple, part of a long-rifle stock blank.
  8. With them seeds of wisdom did I sow, And with mine own hand wrought to make them grow, But this the only harvest that I reaped, Use a light hammer and little girly blows. (apologies to the tent maker)
  9. I "anneal" after forging. (probably not a text book maximum-possible anneal) I feel like it homogenizes things a bit and serves as a fail-safe stress relief from all the violence done the steel in forging. Plus softer saves belts in grinding. I try never to get the steel that hot again in the subsequent process. I have a steel waste can with about 2/3rds full of vermiculite. It does absorb moisture from the atmosphere, which makes it less effective, but then it dries out again in hot weather. I have heard about folks introcucing thin slpits of pine to the annealing box along with the steel.
  10. Very interesting thread Chris, Jesus. Thanks, I never thought about the "what looks like what" aspect before. Jesus do you have a pic of Tamahagane side by side with your Faux Cable-Tamahagane?
  11. Thank you all for the kind remarks. I am goint to get to work tonight in the shop on a sgian using the mini-one-brick forge. Much cozier in inside. Marianne has been loading the kiln today and is half frozen.
  12. This has been a strange Winter, warm early, cold later, bad back, sinusitis, etc, forge out of commission, but I have finished a Dirk that will go home soon. 12-3/4" blade 1085, Beech handle.
  13. Well, Steelbeater, you obviously have something going on there or you wouldnt be doing it, right, Bud? I AM fascinated by the competent pattern welding in the first piece. Very badly ground, but lots of potential. I bet you dont have the right tools. A big belt grinder or a NEW 14" file helps A LOT. Remember, some folks find welding very difficult, and this looks fine, so give yourself some credit Dude. MOST "newbie" work posted on the forums is from people who actually been working at it for a while or a related craft. The real newbie work is always dreadful, as we are working outside of a
  14. Nice tools,, both of 'em. I made a swing arm type much like Ray's a great while ago, but it never worked too well. It actually was built of angle iron. I cut the "angle" off to make the leg to go in the hardy hole. Put together with hard bolts. It always drug down the spine/edge of the blade too much. I have necked down tangs all sorts of ways, but don't do any worse using a hammer and the edge of the avil than I do using any of my home made tools.
  15. Fox Creek

    My new anvil

    Wow, that's great! My own practice is to keep a oily piece of canvas (OK, a filthy oil-soaked rag) over the anvil, I lay the bar I use to preheat the anvil in the Winter on it to keep the wind from blowing the cloth off. It doesnt take much to keep the top from rusting.
  16. I think it looks great Ray. From a practical, point of view, the guard may be swept in a little tight to the handle (I always fuss around a lot on the ones I make with an S guard, kinda a trade-off betwenn aesthetics and room-for-fingers.) One thing no one has mentioned a part of the design is the blade. Imagine this with a less belly on the blade and it changes the feel of the whole piece. ....I too would like to hear about the steel from Aldo.
  17. Larry, I am in Lawrenceburg, KY. I would be glad to help with the Spring hammer-in. I am going to Bowie's.
  18. Well, I prefer a forged blade because, like making them, and know how to make good knives that way. ( I dont know how to make a good stock removal blade). but really. it is not because of any metallurgical or functional differences. It is all about form. The stock removal knife is captive within the precision ground bar of steel from whence it cometh. Not so the forged blade. No perallel (sp?) edges here, no flat planes and machine tool regularity. No curves, all flow. small scale transitions in form that satisfy. Everything tapers two ways! No need to stay inside the bar when you forge.
  19. I have seen blades with nice "Hamon-Like" activity of 5160, made on myself one time. Edge quenched, not clay coated, of course. My take on this is that you can get some very nice, visually interesting quench-line stuff with 5160, but you have to somewhat overheat the steel to do it. Make sure it is normalized for veery fone grain before you take that hardening heat, and you will be all right, Get it hot , quick, with out long soaking, and quench. "Spring steel" makes very good knives, but the draw back is all the labor involved in cutting the stuff up. (I still have most of a whole spring
  20. Cumberland Elkhorn Brand metalurgical grade sized and washed coal.
  21. Thanks for the kind words Norris. Edgar, more of the gun oil type. Any gun oil or light machinist's oil intended for general bench use is fine. I buy 5 Gal (US) plastic buckets of 30 WT non-detergent R & O Oil locally for a quench oil blend, but by itself it works fine on the bench; cut it about 25% with white kerosene or Mineral spirits for use on the oil stone or as a abrasive paper lubricant.
  22. Really nice Ray...really. They look like they would be very functional too. Nice pair; One to keep, and one to use!
  23. For working the patina? I use Ballistol, but you could use any good oil. The Ballistol is nice that because it is supposed to neutralized acidic conditions.
  24. Yes, nothing but fumes does the work. I haven't tried boiling, but an familiar with the process, My Dad years ago had a small home business rust blueing shotgun barrels. The blade is 1084. or is it 1085? OK, 1084/85.
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