Jump to content

Fox Creek

Members
  • Content Count

    154
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fox Creek

  1. Robert, You did a nice job regrinding the back of the blade. Even a little bit more off would work nicely. I can't believe your customer won't love it.
  2. I like that very much also. I like that the horn has been worked down somewhat; looks kind a like some mamoth bark ivory I have seen, almost. Very inviting. NS pin?
  3. Thank you so much for the kind words, Ray and all. Murch, was it you asked about the Patina process? Its very simple. 'goes into HT at 220 grit. Afterwards, drop back to 120 grit to clean up, then 220 worked hard. Degrease thoroughly. TIP. when you wash it off with acetone or whatever ( I favor aerosol carburator cleaner myself), let it drip dry for about 20 minutes. Water will condense on it from the sudden cooling of the evaporating solvents. very ugly results to put water beaded blade into tank. Make sure it is dry by evaporation. Suspend in a tank of somekind ( I use big white PVC pip
  4. That is really astounding and impressive. :notworthy: It looks heavy, but I know that it is not. 'anyone know the thickness of the blade?
  5. Oh, yes. I will be there Alan. My main problem is deciding what to bring for the IITH. This dirk was a little different; I hadn't done one with the curved basal plate in a long time and had, more or less, forgotten how to do it. I approached it a bit differently and left a lot more stock to carve, so I was carving more upon the form than into it; a bit thicker at the plate, and it came out quite a bit "chunkier" than I anticipated, but felt very good in the hand. The beech is great stuff to work with. Not as hard or brittle as Birch, not as soft a Black walnut or cherry; has an subtle open
  6. I just shipped this off to Texas. The patina was appllied during hot weather and came out very even and dark. (It is somewhat unpredictable process) I like it but some customers dont like anythig this dark.) 13" blade of 1085. European Beechwood haft, all mild steel fittings, brass pommel nut.
  7. I haven't done the mental analysis of all this, but a sequenced quench from oil to water is very old technique. You see methods in old shop books that call for floating oil over brine, and quenching first in the oil, then through the oil into the brine. The brine is too severe, the oil less so, so you "cushion" the quench by oil first, then brine, to obtain maximum hardening with out the snap-crackle-pop-blade cracking phase.
  8. They look rusty all right, but be careful of old lead containing paint and galvanizing or chrome plating. You dont want to burn that stuff off and put it in the air in the vicinity of your lungs. I bet they are pretty good quality low alloy steel in the mid carbon range, 1070 or so with a bit of chrome or nickle, etc.
  9. Priz, the 5160 coil spring woulf be dandy stock for punches if not too large. I have heated up coil springs and cut them uu on a hardy and then strightened out the shorter segments. 5160 meakes a darn good cold chisel, and that's a good project for this stock too. You get to forge it to a squarish cross section.
  10. That's a nice little knife. I dabbled in cable damascus once, for a couple of blades worth, a few years ago. I could always get it to delaminate at the edge under extreme stress, but short of that, they were very tough, and very, very sharp. (I am sure yours is better welded than mine.) How did you harden it? and how tempered? 'just curious.
  11. Yes, Jake, I know what you mean. There are maker's names that are very familiar to me, like old friends, that I have never met. Only through their work. There is a kinship somehow.
  12. Greg, you said you liked the middle one...I love making the little stag sgians. That one has a german silver ferrule. I can see where they could evolve into quite fancy things. It is hard to find a really good piece of white tail crown for these, but the eccentricities of the materials make you think. Oh, yes Alan, I remember that knife. quite a nice piece.
  13. A grease quench works great. It will stink and smoke, but you will get hard blades. If all is right, it will blow the scale off the blade. Throw in a sprinkle of saltpeter and sal ammoniac for the ancestors. :35:
  14. Thanks Guys! I despise taking photos and up dating the website Fox Creek Forge. It doesn't seem to matter, I still have a years waiting list. (which isn't all that much stuff since I am a slow part-timer ) I truly regret I wasn't able to make it to Harley's. What knife of mine showed up Alan? I can't imagine what that might be. I just shipped anothet two off to you-know who in MO and now He wants two more! I have to finish mowing the back yard and then into the shop.
  15. I have gotten very bad about taking photos of work before I ship it. But, I did take a shot of this set before i sent it out earlier this year.
  16. I think that we all have knife makers in our lives that have influenced out knifemaking, some through direct contact and learning, others through the media of print and photography. For example, very few actually knew Bill Scagel, but many makers have looked at his work in detail though indirectly and found it good. The only time I think I have ever seen a real Scagel blade was in a knife show many years ago at the Memphis Ornamental Metal Museum. It was in a plexi case and being allowed to fondle it did not seem to be probable. Nonetheless, the hair stood up on the back of my neck. I looked a
  17. Dan, I have been using a mix of 50% 30 weight R & O oil, purchased in five gallon buckets from a local NAPA store, and 50% transmission fluid with very good results. It seems to pretty fast, doesn't require much preheating except in winter, and works well with all the steels you mention. You can fine tune it by varying the pre-heating of the oil, and using an interrupted quench. ...I didn't make it to Harleys this year either.
  18. There is nothing wrong with the basic design, but I would discourage you from building it with concrete/cement. That is not at all refractory, will break down quickly in contact with the heat, and would be very heavy and unncecessary. The bottom air will work fine, you just have to be mindful of keeping it clear of clinker. If you are using real, metalurgical grade washed coal, you will get little clinker with proper fire management. If you are using common "stoker" coal, you may get a lot of clinker. The ash filled/washtub forge is a very good design by the way. For another approach, I hav
  19. Fox Creek

    Quench temp

    I find the temp of the Quench oil needs to vary depending on its "speed", the ambient temperature and the work at hand. There are a lot of variables in everyones specific set up and materials, of course but I get the impression that a great many bladesmiths must use oil much slower than mine. The oil I use* is very reliable, but fast. It rarely requires any preheating, except in the winter when I pre-warm it by quenching a bar before I harden a blade, but its not hot by any means, just luke warm. I find the key to success for me when quenching difficult blade forms that want to warp is slowing
  20. That's a nice cache of stuff to work with. Remember, You need materials to make tools and stuff with too, not just blades. those cultivator point spring arms would be ideal material for swages, etc. And by the time you use this half up, you will have learned a great deal about how to hot cut and work down odd pieces. :ylsuper: Those cultivator points would make dandy blades I bet. Study the shape of them and hot cut the profile with a straight chisel and then finish forge with the hammer. Even if you only do it once it will be fun. Recyled materials encourage us to do things differently to
  21. That looks great. What's it made out of? Looks maybe like a castable refractory ?
  22. Yes, very nice work. I like simple. Is the pommel and cross mild steel or wrought? Is the pommel peened (peined?) on or threaded and peened?
  23. That Permit thing sounds like a pain Ray. Good Luck. Around here, if you are zoned A-1(which is Agricultural, which includes a lot of territory that simply is just rough, anything that is not something else, is classified as A-1)you can do what ever you want with out regard to building codes, etc. as long as it is agricultural. The only thing they worry about is residential. Always wary of some one building a sub-standard bunk house for the field hands. In some counties it is illegal to put in a new house trailer; they have had that much trouble with sub-standard housing in the past. Maybe the
  24. This is a great thread! I finished up a coke bottle frame handled sheffield Bowie with Stag scales for an old customer. This is the 3rd piece he has purchased.) 'waiting on the MO for that one.
×
×
  • Create New...