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    Zurich, Switzerland
  1. Ciao Daniel May I add a little critic to your Knives. The Shape of the Blades is exactly what is needed for hunting in our area. But since I helped many roe deers and rabbits out of their fur myself I can tell you that the wrapped handle is somewhat suboptimal. The rough sourface gives maybe a nice grip, but since it will be in contact with blood and pieces of flesh it is prone to get dirty and sticky. When you've gutted and skinned a deer out in the woods you're usually quiet happy when you just can wash your hands and blades in a nearby well or creek. So imho i'd prefer a plain surface. Besides that, great blades and nice to have you back. Greg
  2. Hi there I spent quite some time googling pages related to bladesmithing and knifemaking. I bookmarked the ones that I liked, here they are, hope at least some of them are helpfull to beginners. Oh, I'm Swiss, some of the Pages are maybe in French or German, but most should be english. http://www.100megsfree3.com/kragaxe/temp/mgibson.html http://www.isd.uni-stuttgart.de/~tardy/sch.../schmieden.html http://www.andrew.jordan.scarlet.nl/index00.htm http://www.roninknives.com/ http://www.dfoggknives.com/cgi-bin/IkonBoard/ikonboard.cgi http://pub53.ezboard.com/bprimalfires http://pub14.ezboard.com/bthecrucible26870 http://www.ckdforums.com/index.php http://pub53.ezboard.com/fprimalfiresfrm12 http://www.forgefr.com/ http://www.schmiedecafe.com/ http://couteaux.free.fr/ http://www.hawknknives.com/knives/_knife.shtml http://www.uddeholm.de/PRODUKTE/Uddeholm_Handbuch.pdf http://www.sz-metal.si/index2.htm http://swordforum.com/metallurgy/ites.html http://www.anvilfire.com/ http://www.blindschleiche.de/Artikel/GAK/20010113Scheide.php http://www.cashenblades.com/Info/Info.html http://www.customknifedirectory.com/CKD_TutorialFrameset.htm http://www.dfoggknives.com/index.htm http://www.dragoncutlery.bravepages.com/grind.html http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html http://www.arscives.com/bladesign/hybridpolish.htm http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/ http://www.powning.com/jake/home/j_homepg.shtml http://www.jogibeer.de/ http://www.vikingmetalworks.com/library.html http://www.engnath.com/public/intable.htm http://www.ulrichlennartz.de/sub-leo/messer.htm http://www.engnath.com/public/intable.htm http://home.mchsi.com/~samonji/polishtutorial.html http://www.littlehenknives.com/Survivorseries.html http://pub53.ezboard.com/fprimalfiresfrm12 http://www.ksky.ne.jp/%7Esumie99/ P.S. yep, they call me Google-Slut
  3. Achim Wirtz told me his recipe for a pretty similar mixture . It consists of 70% of baking fat (coconut prefered, smells great ) and 30% parafine wax. I use the same mixture at my shop and it has some advantages. When at room temperature its hard and can be stored anywhere, it also doens't rot, smell bad or anything and you can store it for years. To use it you need to heat up your quenchtank first to about 50-60° C. The Goop is then liquid like any other oil. The baking fat has a very high boiling point, and since its allready warm its not that a shock for the blade. I used it myself on 65Si7 which is pretty simillar to your 5160 and on 1.2510 (01) and had as far as I can tell good results with it (though, I'm not that a skilled bladesmith), no broken blades so far and all show a good hardness. Achim told me he uses Goop also for 1.3515 (german ball bearing steel, similar to 52100) and he's happy with the results. The only downturn is that you got to heat your quenchpot up everytime before you use it. For a professional bladesmith this is maybe not the optimum, but since I do only a few blades a year I'm just happy to never ever hear something cracking when I quench, and if its a Rockwell more or less I really don't care.
  4. what a wonder, could that be somehow related with the fact that your shop is in a basement and has no windows?
  5. www.messerforum.net , Germany, Austria and Switzerland http://www.forgefr.com , France hope this helps you a bit
  6. Greg

    Forge UV

    local hardware store sells saftey glasses for outdoor work, 100% UV protection, but not that dark, more a greenish color. Tried them for forgewelding, and they do just very few interfere juding the steel colors, but you can stare for a while into the forge without getting this "flashes" in the eyes.
  7. Greg

    Bladeridge (shinogi)

    I actually worked on both sides of the blade and frequently turned the blade. What amazes me the most is the I get the clean ridge on the left side, the side that is usually away from me when I work. Well, I guess I just have to make a new piece and try it again. Greg
  8. Hi Latley I was working on a piece for a customer, actually one of my first works for somebody else. He gave me a desing sketch, a medium sized viking-style knife with a ridge (dunno if ridge is the correct english term, therefor I used shinogi). Atm, I'm stuck with hammering this ridge, I started hammering small bevels on both sides, draw them out, and with soft blows on a red heat I received a really decent ridge on the left side of the blade, but on the right side, no matter what I do, how soft or hard I work, no clean ridge want appear. So far I worked out that I can controll the rigdeline with controlled strikes on either the flat or on the beveled part, tried that a few times, the ridge on the left side came better and better, but the edge on the right side didn't improved. now I'm at a point where I'm afraid that the entire edge could get to thin if repeat this procedure a couple of times. so, any advice how to work out the bladerigdes on both sides? what should I pay attention to? Greets Greg
  9. Hello I plan to build a bloomery this summer and make my own steel. Now im trying to get as much know-how and informations as I can. I started a thread with a detailed description of my plans on the bladesmithing boards of http://www.ronin.to (direct link to thread: http://www.ronin.to/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18 ). If you got anything to contribute or are just interested in the general topic, it would be nice if you could read it and maybe drop me a line or two. Greets Greg p.s. dear forum admin, I posted some direct links to another board, hope you don't mind, but if this is considered as bad or ilegal behavior, please tell me, and I will remove them instantly.
  10. Thanks for the compliments. I splited the handle with a chisel-hammer (dunno whats the english word for "Warmschrotmeisel"). Afterwards I removed some material with a angle-grinder and hand files, then hammered it into shape again.
  11. Greg

    Newbie Blade

    Here's a pic of my first blade. It's made of 65Si7 spring steel, blade-length 15cm, total length ~30cm, diferentialy hardened, leather handle-wrapping. It was great fun making it, although this 65Si7 is tough stuff under the hammer. The knive weights about 370g and it fits just perfectly into my hand. guess I will use it myself as an outdoor-knive.
  12. SCJ, I made a Page with all sketches and drawings I found: http://homepage.swissonline.ch/messerschmieden/burner.htm Hope this will help you. Greets Greg
  13. @SCJ I think I must have some some sketches of the burner and the Nozzle somewhere, but I suggest you to purchase a real hybridburner from Rex if you can aford one. It takes a lot of work to build one, and I only did this cause I was/am short on money. All guys I know who use his burners are very satisfied with them. Anyhow, will search for those sketches and scan them. Also think about Roberts tip with Don's design, it seems to be an excellent small forge. I actually only choosed this setup cause of the better functionality regarding HT. Well that, and the good old "Bigger is Better "-attitude @Robert Probably true, but at least we can try
  14. Hi @Robert, yes, the burner makes it very easy to control heat an atmosphere. The special mount of the choke with the weel was an idea of my workshop-buddy Urs. This way you can work with gloves and still have a perfect grip. Since I havn't got any resources left to build a salth bad ( had to eat cup-noodles for 4 weeks for this one) I need this forge also for hardening, thats the main reason why I choosed the horizontal setup. @Don, I think its me who has to thank  you, your site is just great, and I'm greatfull that you share your know-how. It helped me a lot with my stuff. Thank you. @Mike, Yeah, it was great fun building this one, also gives you a better understanding in what you are doing, and what you need. So I get a forge customized for my needs. I was one lucky fellow with my shop and the equipment. Urs, the owner of the shop, who I know from civil protection service (the mandatory service you do over here when your not serving with the armed forces), invited me to use his shop in my freetime and helped me building this forge. Urs is a professional cabinet maker and metal artist, the shop is equiped with almost every tool and machine that is used for metal works. besides that, the shop is an old smithy, and all the old tools, hammers, anvil, tongs etc. are still there. gave me kinda headstart. Then I also get into contact with Daniel Gentile, hes a young bladesmith from Zurich, he gave lots of valuable tips, and also some free training lessons. Greets Greg
  15. Hi Guys I'm new to the show, my name is Greg, I'm 24, from nearby Zurich, Switzerland. Latley I started my bladesmith-journey. I havn't posted much so far, cause I simply had nothing to contribute, well now, I got something. After the first Newbie mistakes (you know, enthusiasm and such...) I became a bit more serious in what I was doing, and built myself a gasforge. I made some pics, and set up a page (modem-users be aware, heavy load!) http://homepage.swissonline.ch/messerschmieden/gasforge1.htm Well, mostly you guys fault that I became adicted to bladesmithing, guess you will have to live with me for some time now  Greets Greg
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