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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

GEzell

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GEzell last won the day on September 30

GEzell had the most liked content!

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    http://s665.photobucket.com/albums/vv18/GHEzell/
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and visual arts

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  1. Blade warping O1

    Uneven heating is also a factor from what I've experienced. I have a mini-forge I used to use for heat-treating until I realized that every blade I hardened with it had the exact same slight warp to the left... This was because of the burner coming in from one side I think, had it been coming in from the top it probably wouldn't have been a problem. Your attempt to soak, while a noble effort, might be causing more problems than it's curing.
  2. The Lake Sword

    I'll second that. That sword is mind-blowingly awesome.
  3. Completed "Bowie No.1"

    Beautiful work man, that was a complex build but you pulled it off and made it look easy.
  4. Drill press and hidden tangs

    I have a small HF drill press, but I actually prefer drilling hidden tang handles using a hand drill. I do my layout on the end of the block to determine where exactly the hole needs to be, and I mount the block in a vise so that the path of the bit will be level. I draw a center line down the block and use that to help me eyeball when the bit is lined up correctly. It isn't hard to do considering the long bit gives a lot of visual reference. If it's a through tang and the hole needs to go completely through the block, I mark both ends and drill halfway in from each direction. 9 times out of 10 the holes line up perfectly.
  5. Back in the game

    Good to see your work again! The browning really does make the inlay stand out. The knife is pretty cool too.
  6. The Lake Sword

    I love the steel, the handle design, the blade shape... Epic.
  7. Help with Seax bolster

    I've found two metal ferrules, and neither has very good documentation or providence.... This is from eBay- VERY RARE GENUINE ANGLO-SAXON SEAX & FERRULE- (Wheeler type IV) £155.00 It doesn't say what the ferrule is made of, it appears to be possibly copper alloy? Another, if the dating is correct, made of silver.... http://www.time-lines.co.uk/saxon-epigraphic-knife-bolster-and-tang-024789-39957-0.html Both of these could be fakes, but also could be genuine...
  8. Help with Seax bolster

    A little critique on the blade shape... This style of seax usually has a slightly longer clip, and usually looks better with a slightly longer clip. This makes for a fine point which can be reinforced by changing the grind angle towards the tip. This style of seax always tapers in profile from the clip to the tang, the spine and the edge were never parallel. The widest part of the blade was at the 'hump', and as it approached the handle it narrowed. This type of seax was always a hidden-tang, as were the vast majority of other styles of seax. I've been searching for a decade and have only found one seax of this type with the handle intact, the Aachen seax, which has a metal ferrule/cap on the butt end. Period illustrations often show some type of ferrule but it's impossible to tell what type of material and the exact construction. Extraordinarily few have survived, which leads me to believe that they were typically organic materials. Earlier, continental broadsaxes had long handles, and it's very likely that this trend also applied to the later Saxon style seax. The Aachen seax has an approximately 10" blade with a handle over 8" long, and the surviving sheaths and period artwork indicate that these proportions were typical. One other thing... It's very rare to find a perfectly straight line on these seaxes, it's always very slight subtle curves, including the edge.
  9. Looking for figured ash

    Yes, and an oversized handle at that. It doesn't matter if it's burl, curl, or crotch as long as it's got nice figure. Alan, I'll give Dunlap a call, maybe they'll pick out a nice piece for me.
  10. The title says it all, I'm looking for ash with nice figure, 1"x 2"x 9" is the optimal size.
  11. 80CrV2 NJSB V AKS ?

    NJSB: Carbon 0.807 Silicon 0.32 Manganese 0.54 Chromium 0.503 Vanadium 0.153 AKS: Carbon 0.82 Silicon 0.22 Manganese 0.42 Chromium 0.66 Vanadium 0.2 Overall I doubt anyone could tell the difference. Aldo's might be a little tougher (more silicon) and not quite as hard (less chromium and Vanadium).
  12. Steel for beginner

    1080 and 1084 are the easiest steels to heat-treat, and are also easy to forge, sand, and polish. They also make for a good knife. If you're going to be sending them out for heat-treating you have a lot more options...
  13. Highland Dirk - Biodag for a Bodach

    Well done man, I'm glad he's getting his knife, and a lovely knife at that.
  14. 3-finger EDC

    That would make a very nice bird and trout knife, or inconspicuous EDC for that matter. I could also see a version 150% sized being an excellent hunter.
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