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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  


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GEzell last won the day on September 30 2017

GEzell had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and visual arts

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  1. The wolf seax

    Eets ah very pointy....
  2. The wolf seax

    I've been quiet lately, I haven't had as much time to bladesmith as I'd like between job and weather. I'm trying very hard to get caught up on commissions. Here we have a pair of wolfstooth seaxes with ash handles. Both have wrought iron spines and w1 edges. The larger one is just over 2 ft long, silver wire wrap, and the handle stained with aqua fortis. The fittings on the sheath are nickle silver.. we'd wanted to use silver but it just wasn't in budget. The smaller one is just over 10" long, with an oil finish on the handle and bronze sheath fittings.
  3. Making a Scabbard With a Veneer Core

    Thanks for this tutorial Peter, I'm planning to make a few scabbards in the near future so this is very well timed. I found a source for the plywood, big sheets too.... http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php I want to verify, the plywood is bowed to the cross-sectional shape of the blade when the layers are glued together, and afterwards retains that shape?
  4. "Sovereign" Dagger.

    Dude! Yeah, I can't come up with anything coherent to say.... Dude!!
  5. full tang handles

    My local Lowe's has 6" and 12" drill bits, they're not the best quality but are easily replaceable. If it's a through tang, I'll drill from each end, where I want it to enter and exit, then drill all the way through... I'll then open up the hole to fit the tang using broaches. Broaches are one of those odd tools that are hard to find premade but are easy enough to make yourself, you can modify sawsall blades and longer jigsaw blades or make them out of barstock.... If you're like me you'll end up with a collection of them.
  6. Help Identifying Viking Age Sword

    I stumbled across this one tonight on the vikverir site... http://www.vikverir.no/ressurser/trondheim_viking_no/?dir&page=all Museum of Natural History and Archaeology, Trondheim, Norway... Maybe you can contact them for more information.
  7. Blade warping O1

    Uneven heating is also a factor from what I've experienced. I have a mini-forge I used to use for heat-treating until I realized that every blade I hardened with it had the exact same slight warp to the left... This was because of the burner coming in from one side I think, had it been coming in from the top it probably wouldn't have been a problem. Your attempt to soak, while a noble effort, might be causing more problems than it's curing.
  8. The Lake Sword

    I'll second that. That sword is mind-blowingly awesome.
  9. Completed "Bowie No.1"

    Beautiful work man, that was a complex build but you pulled it off and made it look easy.
  10. Drill press and hidden tangs

    I have a small HF drill press, but I actually prefer drilling hidden tang handles using a hand drill. I do my layout on the end of the block to determine where exactly the hole needs to be, and I mount the block in a vise so that the path of the bit will be level. I draw a center line down the block and use that to help me eyeball when the bit is lined up correctly. It isn't hard to do considering the long bit gives a lot of visual reference. If it's a through tang and the hole needs to go completely through the block, I mark both ends and drill halfway in from each direction. 9 times out of 10 the holes line up perfectly.
  11. Back in the game

    Good to see your work again! The browning really does make the inlay stand out. The knife is pretty cool too.
  12. The Lake Sword

    I love the steel, the handle design, the blade shape... Epic.
  13. Help with Seax bolster

    I've found two metal ferrules, and neither has very good documentation or providence.... This is from eBay- VERY RARE GENUINE ANGLO-SAXON SEAX & FERRULE- (Wheeler type IV) £155.00 It doesn't say what the ferrule is made of, it appears to be possibly copper alloy? Another, if the dating is correct, made of silver.... http://www.time-lines.co.uk/saxon-epigraphic-knife-bolster-and-tang-024789-39957-0.html Both of these could be fakes, but also could be genuine...
  14. Help with Seax bolster

    A little critique on the blade shape... This style of seax usually has a slightly longer clip, and usually looks better with a slightly longer clip. This makes for a fine point which can be reinforced by changing the grind angle towards the tip. This style of seax always tapers in profile from the clip to the tang, the spine and the edge were never parallel. The widest part of the blade was at the 'hump', and as it approached the handle it narrowed. This type of seax was always a hidden-tang, as were the vast majority of other styles of seax. I've been searching for a decade and have only found one seax of this type with the handle intact, the Aachen seax, which has a metal ferrule/cap on the butt end. Period illustrations often show some type of ferrule but it's impossible to tell what type of material and the exact construction. Extraordinarily few have survived, which leads me to believe that they were typically organic materials. Earlier, continental broadsaxes had long handles, and it's very likely that this trend also applied to the later Saxon style seax. The Aachen seax has an approximately 10" blade with a handle over 8" long, and the surviving sheaths and period artwork indicate that these proportions were typical. One other thing... It's very rare to find a perfectly straight line on these seaxes, it's always very slight subtle curves, including the edge.