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GEzell last won the day on September 30 2017

GEzell had the most liked content!


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    North Alabama
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    Bladesmithing and visual arts

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  1. It's a swedish sax, a very different breed than the English and continental types which had the ridiculously long handles. It's not the only one of this type to have a decorated handle either, it's just extremely rare for the handle to survive in such a pristine condition.
  2. I've found a baldric over-the-shoulder carry rig works well for these big seaxes. Excellent work sir.
  3. The temperature for baking a turkey should have very little to no effect on a knife's temper. What type of steel? How did you harden it? How thin is the edge?
  4. I have made something similar to this. I used a 2ft section of hot water heater tank (14" diameter) lined with kaowool with an opening at each end (one for the burner and one for the blade). I use a 1/2" zoeller style burner and that's almost too much... Two thermocouple probes, one near the back and one near the front, and I can tune the temp to within 2° of what I want. It has given me all the accuracy I could need for carbon steels. I also made a full-sized one for swords up to 40" from 55gallon barrels, you'll need a bigger burner for that. I would think that you'll want an inside diameter of at least 10 inches. Jim Batson made one from an old metal garbage can...
  5. This is what I do with all my seaxes. That's a great looking knife!
  6. It's the same basic concept, though that cutter would need modifications to cut annealed steel.
  7. As far as I know, that Anglo-Saxon seax is the only full length tang I'm aware of (for a langsax, they're fairly common on broadsaxes). As far as tempering, I'm not that familiar with 1075. I recently made one of 80crv2 steel and tempered at 550° for a hardness in the mid to upper 50's. I think that was about right for a 26" blade... There is a group on Facebook called "the seax files", I highly recommend it if you do the Facebook thing. Recently there were photos posted of the Jesenwang seax, and there are some good resources in the files section.
  8. "The best work...the work REALLY worth looking at...is done on the verge of utter failure." 

    Richard Furrer

  9. I'm not an expert, but part of your problem could be a potassium deficiency. I struggled for years with muscle cramps in my chest, abdomen, and legs. A friend suggested I take potassium, and as soon as I did the cramps stopped, along with much of the soreness in my joints. I take a tablet when I go to bed and another when I get up in the morning and I can tell if I missed taking it... If I know I'm going to be doing a lot of sweating that day I'll double the dose. It is possible to take too much, but it takes quite a lot, you'd have to eat them like candy to get near the danger zone. Anyway, it helped me immensely and might help you.
  10. A katana has a similar tang about the same width and proportions. The wire wrap at the mouth of the handle serves as a ferrule. I used J Loose's method with the wire, the ends enter the tang cavity and are bent over with the tang serving as a wedge to hold the ends in place... It would be quite difficult to remove now without a lot of persistence. Hard maple is also an extremely strong wood, that being my primary reason for using it (good looking is secondary). With the tang notched and bedded into the handle with g-flex, the tang and the wood work together as a unit, each supporting the other. This is another blade I might try to replicate, as you can see the tang is quite massive, even more so than this one.
  11. Thanks, one of the things that draws me to this blade is it's extremely aggressive profile. The blade is between 7 and 8mm thick, with no distal taper.
  12. Thanks! The biggest challenge is heat-treating and tempering a piece this size, I built a dedicated heat-treating furnace for this purpose. Forging, grinding, and sanding are all complicated by the size though. Thanks! The handle is approximately 10 inches long. The tang is a blind hidden tang, just as it was on the original. It's also over 6" long and quite wide... The wire wrap serves as decoration, helps to keep the handle from splitting, and adds a surprising amount of weight to the handle, helping the balance. Thanks! I was unable to resist testing it on the shrubbery, and it bit me pretty good while I was sanding the blade... It wants to cut and cut deeply, or poke deep holes in things... I kept it as close to the original as I could, and was pleasantly surprised at how good it balances and feels in the hand.
  13. I present to you my rendition of the seax found at Little Bealings, housed in the British museum. The 26 5/8 inch blade is forged from 80crv2 steel. The handle is dark stained hard maple, wrapped with nickel silver and brass wire. The sheath is speculative, as there are no Saxon langsax sheaths that have survived, and very few langsax sheaths at all. I wanted it to be true to the artifacts yet distinctly Saxon in character. The fittings are bronze and include a baldric for carry. The chape was cast by Matthew Berry of Hopkins Forge. This is the largest seax I have finished.
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