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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  


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GEzell last won the day on April 20

GEzell had the most liked content!

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About GEzell

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    North Alabama
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    Bladesmithing and visual arts

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  1. It doesn't have to be pretty as long as it works. What type of insulation did you use? Doug, I suspect the hinges are for easy access should it need relining...
  2. I overheard a conversation earlier about Charlemagne's sword Joyese, and how Google translated it to 'Happy', which one must admit is an odd but strangely appropriate name for a sword... Spiffy is even better.
  3. Wonderful, marvelous, and excellent... Well done man, well done indeed.
  4. Not boring at all, in fact I'm on the edge of my seat... I need popcorn I think. I can hardly wait to see this one finished.
  5. Dear God that is beautiful... I've never thought to try combining incising and embossing, nor was I aware of the use of heat in leatherwork. I have new things to try! Thanks for sharing your thoughts and methods with us. This has been a wonderful thread.
  6. Thanks guys. These just sold this morning, both to the same person...:) Chris, the challenging commission is a sword, a Viking style single-edge that has me upgrading much of my equipment to handle larger blades. Grinding a 30" blade has proven to be a true test of my ability, now it needs heat-treatment... When it's done I'll name it Spiffy, in honor of Alan...:)
  7. I missed the first few minutes, so missed hearing the full names, but I kept thinking that guy looks a lot like someone I know...:) Congratulations!
  8. Two rather simple seaxes I recently finished. I've been quiet here lately, working on a very challenging commission that has me upgrading much of my equipment, the heat-treatment in particular. These two blades are part of the first group of blades heat-treated in my new furnace, and I needed something new to take to Tannehill, so I went ahead and finished these out. The blades are forged from 1084 and are just under 1/4" thick. Both were grinded down to a zero edge, then refined with a tiny micro-bevel... They are very sharp and cut well for being so thick. One is 10 5/8" overall with a 5 11/16" blade and maple handle. The smaller one is 8 11/16" overall with a 4" blade and bog oak handle. The sheaths are embossed leather with bronze fittings.
  9. Welcome to the forum! That's a beautiful knife, I love the way you've combined the contrasting materials of the frame.
  10. The bars must be square with parallel surfaces, if not they will weld, then pop apart when the side of the stack is struck. This happens to me more than I'd like to admit, and the long soak method I described above, combined with a big dose of stubbornness, is the only fix I know of other than tearing it apart and squaring everything up. If the mating surfaces are not parallel, the stack will bow. When you hit it on the flats, the welds will come apart every time... Unless you soak the heck out of it.
  11. I cannot guarantee that this will work, but it's worth a shot. During your initial weld everything seems to stick, then it comes apart when you try to draw it. So take it apart, clean the adjoining surfaces, flux and re-weld. Let's assume it appears to weld together. Next heat, reflux, let it soak at welding heat for 15-20 minutes... This will strengthen the bonds between the rods. After 15-20 minutes, gently yet firmly hammer it together, treating it like it didn't weld the first time. Reflux, and let it soak again. Now see if it holds together when you draw it out. I do not know the science behind it, but these long soaks have allowed me to save a few multiple bar billets despite the experts saying it can't be done. Be sure to normalize the heck out of it afterwards to get the grains back down to a reasonable size.
  12. I've used that method (sanding with linseed oil) on bog oak and walnut with good results, though I've since stopped using linseed oil on black walnut as it darkens the wood too much. Every species of wood seems to need a slightly different finishing method for best results, finding the right one for each is either a pain or an adventure, depending on your outlook on life...
  13. Very nice, I love the accuracy of it. I assume the cutting edge is oriented at 90°?
  14. I second that. It looks like a very refined version of what I use, without the duct tape, rust, and bad machining... Most impressive work...
  15. Ed Caffrey recently posted this video on grinder height, I am pretty much in agreement with him and Joshua on it. Posture makes all the difference when it comes to grinding or forging. https://youtu.be/-i5d4-s-Fnc