• Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

GEzell

Members
  • Content count

    3,194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

GEzell last won the day on April 20

GEzell had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

71 Excellent

About GEzell

  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://s665.photobucket.com/albums/vv18/GHEzell/
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing and visual arts

Recent Profile Visitors

1,660 profile views
  1. What a classy knife, and congratulations on the move and new shop.
  2. I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018QHQSB8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN7VV8O/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I want better probes with ceramic sheaths, I'm not sure how long these will last, but Omega doesn't take Discover cards...
  3. The stiffness of the blade has nothing to do with the heat-treatment and everything to do with the geometry... A full-flat grind flexes extremely well.
  4. I managed to get a few pics of Jerry Rados' twisting rig at Batson's this year. Someone else was operating the crank...
  5. viking

    Wow, that's some very impressive work!
  6. I'm loving that tight twist...:) Good job man.
  7. That looks good! The welds look solid, and I like your design also. I think you're using 1084 and 15n20, right? Those two steels have almost exactly the same heat-treat requirements, so just treat it like you would 1084.
  8. http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/shop/product-category/high-carbon-steel/ This is the home of Aldo Bruno, the New Jersey Steel Baron. His 1084 comes highly recommended, it is easy to forge, grind, and heat-treat, and makes a great knife. http://www.hightemptools.com/steel.html This is the site where Kelly Cupples can be reached. Mr. Cupples hasn't really warmed up to the computer age, you'll need to email him for a current price list, but he makes up for it in being a great guy to do business with. He also has free shipping on orders over $100 on most of his products so it's worth it to buy in bulk. I highly recommend his 1080 for the same reason I recommend Aldo's 1084, it's very similar. The mothersite is a great place to get gas forge parts... https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/shop/product-category/blade-materials/carbon-steel These guys are great to do business with, and are great for small orders and reasonable shipping prices. Stick to their 1084, some of the steels they carry are not for the faint of heart... As you might have guessed, I recommend new steel as opposed to used because you know exactly what you are getting and can get consistent results. Old files may be case hardened (useless for knives), old leafsprings can have cracks, steel from Lowe's might be good for practicing with but will never make a decent blade, but Aldo's 1084 is always good...
  9. I am left-handed, but I have learned to adapt... It wouldn't matter to me.
  10. Very nice work! The handle really came alive when you stained it.
  11. That's the type used in cutting competitions, so I usually refer to them as competition choppers... If they have an official name I don't know it.
  12. I've discovered that the natural colored micarta really benefits from an oil finish, at least cosmetically. That looks like a good working knife, I love the shape.
  13. I was really enjoying watching these, right up to the point the flaw was found... Heartbreaking. This is one of the reasons I haven't been using as much wrought iron lately...
  14. Most of the migration and viking era blades had very low layer twists, around 5 to 7 layers. I typically do 9 or 11 layers, but occasionally fold and double that depending on the look I'm after. The way I work, I expect the finished billet to grow in length by the time I'm satisfied with the welds, so I twist the bars accordingly... I like very tight twists, so my method is to twist as tight as I think it needs to be then twist some more... For the best looking twists, you'll need to grind away at least a third to a half of their thickness to get down to the 'stars', so again plan accordingly. You can do a lot of this heavy stock removal before welding the bars together and avoid quite a bit of grinding later... Taking all that into account, I forge the individual bars 3/8 to 1/2 inches square, and weld it all together expecting to end up with a billet about 125% the thickness of the finished blade. If you don't do the thinning of the twists before welding everything together you'll need the billet to be almost twice the thickness of the finished blade, which means a lot of grinding...