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GEzell last won the day on September 30

GEzell had the most liked content!

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About GEzell

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    Bladesmithing and visual arts

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  1. Raw linseed oil does dry, it just takes several months instead of a week...
  2. There's basically three ways to straighten a warp. The first way I've already described, after the quench but before martensite forms. Quench long enough to get past the pearlite nose, then straighten by hand (with thick gloves) before the blade cools past 400-500°.... This is also where the aluminum plates come in (they don't have to be aluminum, steel and even wood will work), they can be used to keep everything straight until the blade has fully cooled. The second method is to straighten during the temper by clamping the blade to a hunk of steel, over-correcting a little past straight. This can take a few tries to get right, but works most of the time. The third method involves three points in a vise, a torch, and bad odds of breaking and/or over-heating the blade.... Avoid this method if at all possible.
  3. I'll second that...
  4. Even though the battle has already been fought, I'll be rooting for you...
  5. Wow, that looks awesome....
  6. You have a window between approximately 800° and 450° where the blade has missed the pearlite nose but hasn't started turning into martensite yet... That is, the blade is still soft. During this time you can fix any warps by hand, with heavy gloves of course. Once it drops below 400-450° martensite (hardened steel) begins to form and it starts becoming brittle.
  7. The only tempering chart I've been able to find for 80crv2 (https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/zdata-bladesteelC-1080+.htm) shows you would need to temper at 575° to reach 55HRC, which is a bit hotter than my kitchen oven will go (I do have a drum forge/furnace that will stabilize at that temp with the burner barely sputtering, but that doesn't help you)... I should have checked that before I commented earlier. That said, maybe a different steel would be better for this purpose. I personally like a throwing knife to be able to function as a knife (otherwise it's not really a knife, is it?), even though it is a little softer I wouldn't want it dead soft... Again, personal preference here, I'd want a solid spring temper, say 48 to 55HRC, maybe even a little harder with the right steel. I can understand why others might feel differently however.
  8. When I was a teenager I had some throwing stars that had that type of grind. I've been meaning to go out to my grandparent's old place with a metal detector to see if I could recover any of the two dozen or so that I lost there... Someone came up with the same idea you have, though I can't recall what they're calling it, there is a line of tactical knives that uses that geometry.
  9. Of the steels you mention, the only one I would use for a thrower would be 80crv2. I would not suggest 1095 or o1 simply because the tempering temperature would be higher than the average oven can reach... Anything with .8% carbon down to .4% would work, I know one fellow who made a set out of HC railroad spikes and that might just be the best thing to use them for as far as knives go.
  10. From my experience, along with what the experts have written, 1095 can be oil hardened in thinner sections but you can expect the autohamon effect... I get a a little autohamon quenching 1095 in parks#50, and a lot in warmed canola. From my experiments, agitation during the quench is extremely important with shallow hardening steels. Plunge it into the oil, and use a slicing motion, waving the blade back and forth but NOT side to side until the blade has cooled to black. Pull it out, check for warps and quickly straighten as needed, then back into the oil until it's cool enough to handle... Then wipe clean and into the tempering oven.
  11. I think they were calling it 1080+... I notice they're calling it 80crv2 now.
  12. I should have given you this link first... This explains what each process does. http://www.cashenblades.com/heattreatment.html I consider normalizing and thermal cycling (that is, multiple normalizations with descending heats) essential for a forged blade, as this refines the grain and puts the steel in an ideal state for hardening. Annealing serves only one purpose, to make the steel soft enough to drill and file easily. The only time I anneal is if I'm having trouble drilling holes in a full tang, otherwise I rarely bother with it. Your difficulty with your equipment will be judging temperature. One thing that will help is the old magnet trick. Steel looses its magnetism at approximately 1420°, which is about 80° below the ideal temperature for hardening. It will put you at the low end of the ballpark... One other thing that will help is a phenomena known as decalescense. When the temperature reaches the steel's happy place, a phase change begins to occur within the steel, and it requires energy to happen. Energy that was being radiated as light starts being used elsewhere, thus the steel, instead of glowing brighter as the temperature increases, will stop glowing brighter until the phase change is finished at which point it begins glowing brighter as the temperature increases again. What this looks like is a little hard to describe... As the temperature increases the steel gets brighter until it begins to change, and then it appears to not be getting brighter, and then, starting at the thinner parts (the edge and point) suddenly start getting brighter again while the thicker sections lag behind like shadows. When the shadows are gone, quench. It's only possible to see it in near darkness, but it is a surefire way to know the steel is hot enough to quench.
  13. wip

    That's the nice thing about a convex grind, it doesn't require any special equipment. See that ridge where the primary and secondary bevels meet? Sand it into a facet. Now you have two new ridges either side of that facet... Make them facets. And again. And again. Now blend. Wah lah, you have a convex geometry.
  14. This might be of use... http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1080.html
  15. wip

    It's good to leave the edge a little thick as it helps it survive the heat-treatment, but afterwards it needs to be thinned down. You can use a coarse stone or sandpaper... I would suggest 60 grit. A method I've been using for a very long time now is to convex the blade at this point, just enough to thin the edge down to a proper thickness... For me, I take the edge down to nothing, I want a burr along the edge, but that might be too extreme for some...