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GEzell

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Posts posted by GEzell

  1. Thanks!

     

    The first two blades came from the same billet, which was an attempt to replicate a pattern I did last year on a much larger blade, scaling it down. I'm pleased that I managed to get the twists so tight... The third one was basically forged from a little scrap I had left over from an earlier project, and though the pattern is a bit stretched I like the shape of the blade most of all.

     

    Emiliano, the idea to use the herringbone pattern on the sheath fittings came from looking at your work...:)

  2. That looks awesome!

     

    Yeah, that's the basic process for the sheath. I use a piece of 1/4" plexiglass with a good sharp corner to start the bend, pulling the wet leather down over it to stretch it. Be sure to wrap the knife in plastic or something to protect it from moisture, oil or wax the knife, give it a few wraps with saran wrap and then tape it up real good.

  3. I have a bad habit of grabbing images off the net and not remembering where I grabbed them from... I'm getting better about it, I want to give credit where it's due, but I'm still far from perfect. I'll dig around and see if I can find anymore information on this.

  4. I have used ferric chloride to deeply etch steel, it works quite well it just takes longer than the nastier acids. I use enamel paint as a resist. I am intrigued by the salt water technique, but apparently not enough to try it when I have a proven method already... I need to get off my arse and experiment, it would be a time saver if nothing else. It takes about an hour and a half to get a nice deep etch with FC on steel, add to that waiting for the resist to dry, cutting the design, etc... anyway, yes you can use FC, it just takes longer but is less likely to result in injury as using the traditional mordants.

  5. I have been using g-flex for about a year and am quite pleased with it. As far as the thickness, it flows much better when it is 95 degrees plus, in the summer I store it in the shop, in the winter I keep it in the house. Anyway, my unscientific tests show it to be very strong once it has fully cured with excellent impact resistance.

  6. http://pin.it/fdoFaqi

     

    I hope that link works. These are Slavic knives from the 11th century... the sheaths are so similar that I was hoping this might be an unbroken tradition, though I don't know if these were made of birch-bark. The fittings, and the overall pattern however... the resemblance is amazing.

    • Like 1
  7. If the purpose behind san-mai is to have an ultra hard core, it should be noted that if the blade is not tempered back sufficiently the edge will still chip. I use primarily shallow hardening steels, so it matters little if the entire blade is quenched, I'm still not going to get full hardness all the way through the blade... the edge-quench is entirely to avoid the blade being ripped apart, in this case it serves no other purpose. With a deep hardening steel like cru-forge I think the slower quenchant would be a better solution.

  8. So a good customer decides he wants a seax with a type L sword hilt... my first instinct was to try to talk him out of it, but then I remembered some broadsaxes I'd seen that had sword-like hilts, and then I started sketching. This is the result. If the 10th century Saxons had ever met up with the 6th century Merovingians, the results may have looked something like this....

     

    Overall length is right at 20 inches, cutting edge is 14 inches. Blade is made from 1084, 15n20, with W1 for the edge and spine. Handle is bog oak with wrought iron and etched bronze.

     

    IMG_20160718_170014793_zpsonzeoloo.jpg

     

    IMG_20160718_170032157_zpsrxnstjbl.jpg

     

    IMG_20160718_170046664_zpsxdqi70bf.jpg

     

    This one pushed me into new territory, for which I am grateful.

    • Like 4
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