Jump to content

GEzell

Members
  • Posts

    3,318
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Posts posted by GEzell

  1. I've only made a handful of san-mai blades, but I've been bit by this too. My solution was to edge-quench about half the blade width, so far I've not had this problem again using this method.

  2. I've been doing them the same thickness, forging in the bevel, and it seems to work pretty good. I have a little trick I use to be sure the edge steel is centered... once the billet is ready to be forged into a blade and the point is drawn out, grind a 45 degree bevel along each side of what will be the edge, just deep enough to hit the core steel... then forge it into a knife. This also helps to keep the softer jacket steel off of the edge.

     

    If I were planning on a lot of stock removal I'd probably use thicker sides.

    • Like 1
  3. Just from looking at point damage and profile corrosion... I think we are seeing three different blades here with similar shapes and inlays. The Chesterton blade has a clean break at the point. The first blade in your post, judging by other photos, has an intact point. The middle one in your second photo has much more profile corrosion and still has most of its point, but not all... but not a clean break either. Yet the inlay design is very similar on all three.

     

    Fascinating.

  4. 1. Timothy Artymko

    2. Chad Scott

    3. Caleb Harris

    4. Wesley Alberson

    5. Kevin Hopkins

    6. Alan Longmire

    7. Brian Dougherty

    8. Pieter-Paul Derks

    9. Joshua States

    10. Dan Rice

    11. James Fuller

    12. JJ Simon

    13. Nate Runals

    14. Aiden Carley-Clopton

    15. George Ezell

  5. The times I have used it I simply soaked it in linseed oil. It has an open grain to it, reminds me more of hickory and oak than your typical tropical hardwood, but it makes for a durable handle regardless.

  6. this is hot, what did the copper from the guard/ferrule come from? do you have any WIPs of those?

    The guard is from a electrical panel bus bar, the spacer is also from some forgotten electrical something or other, I've had it laying around for years and don't really remember, but it was from back in my material scrounging days... There was a time when every knife I made was from scavenged parts.

     

    Thanks guys.

  7. Thanks. You mean woods like box, fruit woods, maple etc.? According to "Knives and scabbards", box is by far the most used wood, seconded by maple. I was lucky to find quite a bit of box, bought one big piece and got quite a lot of thicker sticks for free. I quite like it. It's AFAIK the hardest and most dense European wood. And it has a nice but subtle color and figure.

    Box, yew, fruit woods such as apple, pear, and plum... all of these have proven a little hard to acquire here in the states from traditional sources. I've managed a small stash of box and yew, and I have a deal worked out with a local orchard next time they prune... and I'm hoping no one can tell the difference between European maple and local hard/sugar maple...:) finding box and yew with interesting figure has proven almost impossible. I recall you had a bad reaction to yew and will take precautions when I get around to using it. I've used box only once so far but it was a pleasure to work with.

×
×
  • Create New...