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Everything posted by GEzell

  1. Outstanding piece, really grabs one's attention.
  2. I got downright excited when I read 'super-clean 1095' I was starting to think such a thing didn't exist (you should see the contents of the last batch I recieved)... thank you Randall.
  3. GEzell


    It reminds me a bit of Boye's designs, too. Great minds think alike... His book was my intro to knifemaking too, and to this day if I make a full-tang knife I see his influence there . I love the steel pattern, someone's really going to be proud of this one.
  4. :You_Rock_Emoticon: I really like the design and proportions of this one, and the construction is clever and solid. Thanks for sharing.
  5. I've admired your work for a long time, and this is truely exceptional craftsmanship. I for one would like to see the lucky blade that these are for once everything's wrapped up, if it's possible.
  6. I really like the blade shape and the steel is simply beautiful. What makes a camp knife? It depends on who's doing the camping. There have been good arguments for a smaller general-utility knife, an ax for dealing with wood, and maybe a machette for campsite prep. I tend to think of what alot of good folk call a camp knife I would think of as a bush knife (to borrow Mr. Goo's term), or a utility knife hefty enough to chop and chop well... If someone carries a 15" Bowie hunting, I guess they can call that particular knife a hunting knife, even though it doesn't nessisarily fit with most sane folks (particularlly knifemakers) definition thereof. Still, I tend to think of a knife with these proportions as a utility or hunter, but it might be bigger than it looks...
  7. As a general rule, the finer the finish, the slower it will rust, but the faster it will show scratches... The satin finishing techniques above are excellent for a working blade. One small point I would like to make, and it depends entirely upon your grind and geometry you prefer: if you are using a true convex grind with no secondary bevel, I would suggest the final finish run perpendicular to the edge as opposed to parallel, which seems to be the most common. The reason I suggest this is because sharpening this type of blade effectively refinishes it, and if the scratches run parallel resharpening will basically ruin this finish. This is definalty more of a consideration on a working knife than a display piece, and then only if the customer is one of those folks who care how the finish looks on their working knife to the point of trying to maintain it (I have one or two customers that really like the patina a carbon blade gets after months of use, God bless 'em). I'm not trying to establish a rule, just giving you something to think about.
  8. I once got a nice effect of parallel lines using a very coarse rat-tail file in a draw-filing motion. The round shape seems to concentrate alot of action in a small space. I recall reading that one modern Japanese smith was using small sections of various sawblades to achive deep parallel 'file' marks...
  9. Hmmm, yeah a picture might help... Next to the guard the piece can simply be a metal ring at it's simplest, or if there is no guard, a guard-like piece could be soldered on to cap the piece. For the other end(the, er, butt-end pommel thingie), a simple cap soldered onto the part that fits on the handle. That piece could be friction-fit, pinned, or have the tang run through and peined/screwed or otherwise attached. These parts could also be cast, if that's your thing, or even multiple pieces with strong mechanical connections (lotsa epoxy?). On one antique, the handle was a stag taper, with a cap... the pommel fit over this and matches the taper of the stag... I'm not 100% sure how that was pulled off, other than soldered in place with low temp stuff. With my soldering skills the stag would be charcoal before I finished...
  10. I really like that, reminds me of Cleston Sinyard's(sp) swept points some, very solid, very practical. Hard making sheaths for that pattern, though, that point... Excellent job... :35:
  11. I like how the steel pattern complements the stag pattern... good lookin knife :You_Rock_Emoticon:
  12. I recently aquired a few planks of 140 year old poplar, and was considering using it for scabbards... glad to see someone likes the stuff.
  13. GEzell

    New Dagger

    I just wanted to second that. Your knives never cease to inspire and amaze me. :notworthy: Graceful design, outstanding workmanship.
  14. The long riccaso gives you plenty of room to put yer finger if you need to choke up on it, I say. Good looking knife, looks very user friendly.
  15. The only times I'll quench in water is when oil won't get it hard, but that's just me. Some people love water, but I suspect most use brine (the salt affects the boiling temp of the water). It's hard to say with unknown steel. Impossible to predict wether you'll get hamon/transition, what temp it needs to be quenched at, and what temp it needs to be tempered at. I'd try getting a test blade to nonmagnetic and quench it fast in warm thin oil... if that doesn't get it glass hard, try bumping the temp up a wee bit past critical before the quench. As far as tempering, start at 360 then sharpen and test the edge by flexing over a brass rod... if it cracks, bump the temp up 20 degrees and try again until it will not chip. If it bends and stays bent, you've overshot the mark. You want it to flex then return straight. Go ahead and give it another cycle or two at your final temp, just to be sure. Don't forget to normalise (a couple of times doesn't hurt and might help) before quenching, and don't leave too rough a finish or too fine an edge on it when you quench, bad things might happen. Good luck.
  16. I'm thinking the same thing. What grit finish did it go into the quench at? Anything lower than 240 could be asking for trouble (note: a rougher finish is nessisary on clay-coated blades to hold the clay, but theoretically the clay fills in the gaps). One smith suggested finishing a blade to 600 grit before heat-treating, but that sounds like overkill to me. One of the nice things about the high-temp salt setups, no decarb, so very little cleanup after heat-treat....I gotta get one of those.
  17. After tempering I sharpen them to give them the edge flex test and do a bit of whittling. These first cuts with a fresh edge seem to be the moment for me, even if I do dull them again before finishing and hafting. It's a knife. See? It just cut something.... :ylsuper:
  18. Virgil England wrote an article several years ago in Blade mag that described a machine he'd made using a jackhammer in a frame for forging. there were no diagrams or details of the construction other than everything being scrounged. Looks like it could be done, but you'll want to mount that sucker. Something like a light press frame design should work. I'd give it it's own anvil attached to the frame.
  19. I'd go with 1060-1075 range carbon steel, or 5160. A belt sander is not nessisary but is nice, a good big file will do the same work but will give you sore shoulders in the process... Most complex polearms will require either welding or riveting, though.
  20. I can't remember what the Woodshead bowie looks like, but it might have been built like this... coke bottle handle tutorial Alex Daniels gave a demo at Batson's a few years back on an interesting way of making a bowie handle that may be what you are referring to... it was like Bruce's cokebottle but used liners simular to a pocket knife, and the whole assembly soldered and pinned. Some of the old California bowies appear to have been made in a like fashion. Any bolstrs would be attached to the frame instead of the tang, allowing the knife to be taken down by removing a pin through the tang or a nut from the end (a nice feature).
  21. The two reasons I know for leaving some thickness to the blade are warping and carbon loss. A good normalising sequence will remove most cause for warping, but there is still the simple fact a knife is thick on one side and thin on the other... throw in a differential quench where the edge is contracting alot faster than the back and bad things can and do happen. The carbon loss issue gets a bit complex. It seems to me to depend mainly on when and how you do your preheat-treatment (annealing, normalising, and grain refinement steps). If you do your normalising after grinding, there is opportunity for carbon loss during the pr.ocess. If you do it before grinding, most if not all of your decarb will be ground off... The trick is to avoid decarb in the first place. This is done by maintaining an enviornment that is free of oxygen while thermally treating the blade. The fancy way is to use high temp liquid salts to immerse the blade. The low-tech way is to use wood chunks... a metal tube with one end closed is inserted into the forge. Once it gets to tempature a small chunk of wood is tossed into the tube, allowed to burn for a moment, then the blade is inserted. Toss in another to maintain the blaze, and keep it up til the blade is ready to quench. This does two things, it burns off oxygen and it coats the blade with soot. Tai mentioned something like this once, I tried it and like it. I still leave the edge a bit thick, just in case. Try a stone or 80 grit paper to thin it back down, you are shortening the life of your files using them on hardened steel.
  22. I forge in a well ventilated metal shop... I love to forge in a storm, something with the air pressure or humidity makes the forge run hotter. I save my welding for storms, if I can.
  23. At that scale it should be a good hunter too. Very clean design.
  24. Thanks for the thoughtful replies. I hadn't considered the decarb that forms between welds... that might do it. At what temp does carbon migration start? Would thermal cycling, normalising, and hardening be hot enough for it to happen, or does it take the higher temps of welding for it to happen at a significant rate? Goddard's study on cable indicated very low carbon iron forming at the welds, I'm not sure if the cable had gone through the full heat-treatment when tested or not. Steel is some facinating stuff, isn't it...
  25. Several smiths have mentioned a 'damascus cutting effect' involving a patternwelded blade having a better bite in a cut because of the alloys wearing/sharpening at different rates. Given carbon migration, it would seem to me the differences due to other alloying elements would be very small...(the whole hard/soft layers isn't there after a few welds to my understanding). On the other hand there's the wootz blade cutting silk scarfs and the odd properties reported of the 'dendritic' cast blades. Would carbide formers in thin sheets not quite lining up with the edge cause... something? Maybe it's wishful thinking, but honestly it's beyond my barnyard metallurgical studies to say one way or the other. I'm hoping someone here might shed some light on the subject.
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