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Posts posted by GEzell

  1. Other than the thickness of the blade and minor cosmetic details, puukkos have remained unchanged for at least 2000 years.  The blade became thinner as metallurgy improved, though the edge angle remained the same, thus the modern 'scandi' grind.

    This example is about 1000 years old, from Norway.


    • Like 4
  2. The forward and rear laynard holes were my idea after doing some reading and a little testing.  A rear laynard can allow the blade to strike the arm or body if it gets out of control, so I wanted to have more options.

    Thanks Alan, those bolsters complicated things but I think they were worth the extra trouble.  

  3. Thanks guys, it has a good home, I need to ask the new owner if he's using it.

    I think if I were to go with strict bladesports specs I would need to shorten the transition between handle and blade considerably, I like a nice 's' curve there for comfort and safety but it does take up a lot of space... The customer wasn't concerned about it so I wasn't really either.

  4. I wanted to show off a chopper I made recently.  It's not quite to bladesports specs but it's close, the cutting edge is 10.25" and w1 tool steel that formed a neat auto-hamon.  The pattern-welded bars are my standard 1084 and 203e mix, and the bolsters are from the same billet.  The handle is stabilized walnut.  It has a reversed distal taper and handles like an ax....




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  5. My method is almost identical to what Dave just described except after neutralizing I Flitz the heck out of it.  If the etch was sufficiently deep it makes for a beautiful, long lasting finish... It can be difficult to photograph though.

    • Like 1
  6. Magnificent.  

    I love the character of the steel, the subtly of it.  About a year ago a friend sent me a patternwelded Indonesian spear to clean up, the amount of contrast and the character of the steel looks very similar.

  7. I like it, the shape is dead on for a small seax.  If you're going for historical accuracy you need to work on your sheaths, though I'm sure it's functional.  If you're interested there are a lot of images here: 


    • Thanks 1
  8. Very cool!  

    I made a wolfstooth last fall and had success cutting shallow notches in the bar to serve as guides, then using a hot-cut hardy to cut them to the final depth... Very similar to what you guys did, but backwards.  I too have tried using a rack gear with very dramatic failure, though I think it still has potential...

    Looking forward to seeing the final results.

  9. So sad to hear this, Larry was an exceptional bladesmith and artist, and a good man.  I had the pleasure of an hour long conversation with him in 2001, along with seeing a few examples of his work... I had wondered what had become of him.

  10. Is the steel you're cutting a fuller in annealed?  There is a possibility that you've work hardened it with the work you've done.  Honestly though, Imy first guess as to why it's stopped working would be that it's gotten dull, you could try using it on a piece of mild steel to test your resharpening.  The scrapers I've made have an edge angle just shy of 90°, and care must be taken when resharpening not to round the edge... The angle of attack that they cut best at is also a bit tricky due to the design I came up with.

    I hope that was helpful and that you can get it to cutting properly again.  If all else fails you can make a new cutter....


  11. I talked with someone who knows about these things, and this is what they said....

    "I think because as an alloying element, nickel is substitutional, taking the place of one or more iron atoms in the cube. But, as a pure metal, the nickel stays arranged as a body centered cube regardless of temperature, rather than changing to face centered austenite as iron does, which is what allows the carbon to move through the cube. The interstitial spaces are more open in austenite, so the carbon can get through to saturate it. But because the pure nickel does not change to face centered, and remains body centered cubic, there is no room for the carbon to move through."

    Makes sense to me, but it's way above my pay grade.  This is what he remembers of information given to him from Mr V...


  12. If the epoxy will be the only thing holding the knife together, I would suggest filing little notches on each of the four corners of the tang, this gives the epoxy something to grab onto.  Be sure to throughly clean the tang also.  

    You know those little coffee stirrers they have at McDonald's?  I drop one in the tang hole before I pour the epoxy in, they're hollow so all the air can escape from the bottom of the hole, that way there won't be a void from a trapped bubble... Just remove it once the epoxy is poured.

  13. All of your knives have graceful lines, but this one, to my eye, really has grace in spades.  The lines (of course), the materials, the carving and finishes... About as close to perfect as I've seen.  I don't know if I've ever seen one of your knives I didn't like, but this one.... This is a freaking gorgeous knife.

  14. I have had ebony crack (2 months after the knife was finished) and it's heartbreaking.  I personally don't use it unless it's stabilized, and only a few people will even try stabilizing it so I use a lot of African blackwood instead.... That said, it is a beautiful wood and a joy to work with, and I know a few knifemakers who use it on a regular basis and don't seem to have any problems with it.

    That's a lovely blade.

  15. 16 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    A local sharpening service will come to you with all the tools in a van.  They charge $1 per inch.  That's not blade length, that's length of object.  And I did say object, they'll sharpen anything that can be sharpened.  If it's a mower blade you have to take it off first, but they'll do it.

    That's my going rate for everything except machetes which are sharpened entirely on the belt grinder... Except I go by blade length.  Perhaps I should change that...

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