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Everything posted by GEzell

  1. That's my going rate for everything except machetes which are sharpened entirely on the belt grinder... Except I go by blade length. Perhaps I should change that...
  2. I'm pretty sure that's Edvin's work, he makes a very nice version of the Baltic war knife. They tend to be thick and narrow, with a nice wedge cross-section, in some ways they remind me of bayonets... The point is usually in line with the spine, but also occasionally drop-point style or centered.
  3. This is the only single-edged sword I'm aware of that was found with a chape, which indicates it had a typical scabbard. The earlier, Vendel blades had yet another type of sheath... This complicates things, a seax with a 20" blade for instance could have any of the three types depending on location and time period.
  4. Beautiful work, I too am interested in the pocket knife sheath...
  5. I'll second that. Excellent work man.
  6. A lot of seaxes have convex geometries, especially the more narrow ones. The seax of Beagnoth is a good example. A washer-type pommel would be a possibility on seax types with a full length tang (broadsaxes, narrow seaxes, Scandinavian types, but not type IV).
  7. Since you're posting this in design and critique, I'm going to offer you some advice. I'm a seax aficionado, so the first thing that stands out is that this really doesn't look very much like a seax. Right now the seax is suffering from the same thing that happened when the bowie knife suddenly became popular: everybody wants one, but almost no one knows what one is supposed to look like. The cutlers of Jim Bowie's day were more than happy to crank out big scary knives and call them bowies, so that any knife with a blade over 6" long was dubbed a bowie knife for marketing purposes, most of which didn't really look anything like the knife Jim Bowie used.... I've seen double-edged daggers called bowies. I would like to prevent the same thing happening to the seax. The idea of a seax has suddenly become mainstream, everybody wants one, but almost no one knows what a seax actually looks like. My advice is to study the originals. There are a lot of replicas out there and most of them are atrocious. If you want to make a genuine seax, look at the genuine seaxes... In most cases this means rusty blades in museums. Lucky for us we have the internet and don't actually have to travel to Europe and visit the museums personally, Jeroen has done that for us...:) I'm giving you a link to my Pinterest board that has virtually every image of a seax, or smaller knife from the same period, that I've been able to find. Not a lot of them have good descriptions, very few have dimensions, but I think you'll still find them useful. Seaxes were used for over 500 years over most of Europe, there are many regional variations and they changed over time, and sticking a 6th century handle on a 10th century blade is generally considered bad form, but hopefully these images will give you a crash course on all things seax. https://pin.it/aknnwsqkydk3wy
  8. That's awesome.... And yes, a little insane.... But in a good way.
  9. I'm at a loss for words, this is exceptional work, my hat's off to both of you.
  10. That looks great man, and I owe you $5...:) I'm with Alan and Joshua, that's probably decarb, though with wrought iron it's good to expect the unexpected. Speaking of wrought, these guys are sitting on over a hundred tons of it: https://www.oldglobewood.com/real-wrought-iron.html. That's where I figured your's was from, the stuff I've worked of their's has a high phosphorus content and etches very bright. I need to find some low phosphorus to go with it, it would look neat patternwelded together I think.
  11. I'm willing to bet you $5 that your wrought iron came from Globe... That stuff has amazing contrast, almost more than nickel.
  12. Well done man! Great pattern and shape.
  13. Good to see some of your work again, you have such a distinctive style.
  14. Good to see you again Raymond! The pattern is due to using wrought iron and w1, forging teeth into them, then forgewelding them together. I'm posting a photo I took showing part of the process. Both have gone to the same home...:) Redstone Arsenal is about 20 miles from here.
  15. I've been quiet lately, I haven't had as much time to bladesmith as I'd like between job and weather. I'm trying very hard to get caught up on commissions. Here we have a pair of wolfstooth seaxes with ash handles. Both have wrought iron spines and w1 edges. The larger one is just over 2 ft long, silver wire wrap, and the handle stained with aqua fortis. The fittings on the sheath are nickle silver.. we'd wanted to use silver but it just wasn't in budget. The smaller one is just over 10" long, with an oil finish on the handle and bronze sheath fittings.
  16. Thanks for this tutorial Peter, I'm planning to make a few scabbards in the near future so this is very well timed. I found a source for the plywood, big sheets too.... http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php I want to verify, the plywood is bowed to the cross-sectional shape of the blade when the layers are glued together, and afterwards retains that shape?
  17. Dude! Yeah, I can't come up with anything coherent to say.... Dude!!
  18. My local Lowe's has 6" and 12" drill bits, they're not the best quality but are easily replaceable. If it's a through tang, I'll drill from each end, where I want it to enter and exit, then drill all the way through... I'll then open up the hole to fit the tang using broaches. Broaches are one of those odd tools that are hard to find premade but are easy enough to make yourself, you can modify sawsall blades and longer jigsaw blades or make them out of barstock.... If you're like me you'll end up with a collection of them.
  19. I stumbled across this one tonight on the vikverir site... http://www.vikverir.no/ressurser/trondheim_viking_no/?dir&page=all Museum of Natural History and Archaeology, Trondheim, Norway... Maybe you can contact them for more information.
  20. Uneven heating is also a factor from what I've experienced. I have a mini-forge I used to use for heat-treating until I realized that every blade I hardened with it had the exact same slight warp to the left... This was because of the burner coming in from one side I think, had it been coming in from the top it probably wouldn't have been a problem. Your attempt to soak, while a noble effort, might be causing more problems than it's curing.
  21. I'll second that. That sword is mind-blowingly awesome.
  22. Beautiful work man, that was a complex build but you pulled it off and made it look easy.
  23. I have a small HF drill press, but I actually prefer drilling hidden tang handles using a hand drill. I do my layout on the end of the block to determine where exactly the hole needs to be, and I mount the block in a vise so that the path of the bit will be level. I draw a center line down the block and use that to help me eyeball when the bit is lined up correctly. It isn't hard to do considering the long bit gives a lot of visual reference. If it's a through tang and the hole needs to go completely through the block, I mark both ends and drill halfway in from each direction. 9 times out of 10 the holes line up perfectly.
  24. Good to see your work again! The browning really does make the inlay stand out. The knife is pretty cool too.
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