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GEzell

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Everything posted by GEzell

  1. I love the steel, the handle design, the blade shape... Epic.
  2. I've found two metal ferrules, and neither has very good documentation or providence.... This is from eBay- VERY RARE GENUINE ANGLO-SAXON SEAX & FERRULE- (Wheeler type IV) £155.00 It doesn't say what the ferrule is made of, it appears to be possibly copper alloy? Another, if the dating is correct, made of silver.... http://www.time-lines.co.uk/saxon-epigraphic-knife-bolster-and-tang-024789-39957-0.html Both of these could be fakes, but also could be genuine...
  3. A little critique on the blade shape... This style of seax usually has a slightly longer clip, and usually looks better with a slightly longer clip. This makes for a fine point which can be reinforced by changing the grind angle towards the tip. This style of seax always tapers in profile from the clip to the tang, the spine and the edge were never parallel. The widest part of the blade was at the 'hump', and as it approached the handle it narrowed. This type of seax was always a hidden-tang, as were the vast majority of other styles of seax. I've been searching for a decad
  4. Yes, and an oversized handle at that. It doesn't matter if it's burl, curl, or crotch as long as it's got nice figure. Alan, I'll give Dunlap a call, maybe they'll pick out a nice piece for me.
  5. The title says it all, I'm looking for ash with nice figure, 1"x 2"x 9" is the optimal size.
  6. NJSB: Carbon 0.807 Silicon 0.32 Manganese 0.54 Chromium 0.503 Vanadium 0.153 AKS: Carbon 0.82 Silicon 0.22 Manganese 0.42 Chromium 0.66 Vanadium 0.2 Overall I doubt anyone could tell the difference. Aldo's might be a little tougher (more silicon) and not quite as hard (less chromium and Vanadium).
  7. 1080 and 1084 are the easiest steels to heat-treat, and are also easy to forge, sand, and polish. They also make for a good knife. If you're going to be sending them out for heat-treating you have a lot more options...
  8. Well done man, I'm glad he's getting his knife, and a lovely knife at that.
  9. That would make a very nice bird and trout knife, or inconspicuous EDC for that matter. I could also see a version 150% sized being an excellent hunter.
  10. Again, remarkable work sir, I had to come back and be inspired again...:)
  11. That's the one I was looking for, thanks!
  12. Thanks Alan, I will also keep digging. I know I commented on the thread, which narrows the field down to around 2000 possibilities...:)
  13. You posted a few seconds before I did Alan...:) I've seen Ariel's work, but the thread I have in mind isn't him. I was thinking it was one of our European friends, perhaps Greg Verizhnikov, but I'm not finding it...
  14. This was actually adding copper layers to damascus, not simple plating.
  15. I remember a thread here where a guy was making some beautiful blades incorporating copper into patternwelded steel... I'm trying to find that thread again, and after searching through 50+ pages I've arrived at the conclusion that I should just ask somebody.
  16. Raw linseed oil does dry, it just takes several months instead of a week...
  17. There's basically three ways to straighten a warp. The first way I've already described, after the quench but before martensite forms. Quench long enough to get past the pearlite nose, then straighten by hand (with thick gloves) before the blade cools past 400-500°.... This is also where the aluminum plates come in (they don't have to be aluminum, steel and even wood will work), they can be used to keep everything straight until the blade has fully cooled. The second method is to straighten during the temper by clamping the blade to a hunk of steel, over-correcting a little past str
  18. Even though the battle has already been fought, I'll be rooting for you...
  19. You have a window between approximately 800° and 450° where the blade has missed the pearlite nose but hasn't started turning into martensite yet... That is, the blade is still soft. During this time you can fix any warps by hand, with heavy gloves of course. Once it drops below 400-450° martensite (hardened steel) begins to form and it starts becoming brittle.
  20. The only tempering chart I've been able to find for 80crv2 (https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/zdata-bladesteelC-1080+.htm) shows you would need to temper at 575° to reach 55HRC, which is a bit hotter than my kitchen oven will go (I do have a drum forge/furnace that will stabilize at that temp with the burner barely sputtering, but that doesn't help you)... I should have checked that before I commented earlier. That said, maybe a different steel would be better for this purpose. I personally like a throwing knife to be able to function as a knife (otherwise it's not really a knife, is it?)
  21. When I was a teenager I had some throwing stars that had that type of grind. I've been meaning to go out to my grandparent's old place with a metal detector to see if I could recover any of the two dozen or so that I lost there... Someone came up with the same idea you have, though I can't recall what they're calling it, there is a line of tactical knives that uses that geometry.
  22. Of the steels you mention, the only one I would use for a thrower would be 80crv2. I would not suggest 1095 or o1 simply because the tempering temperature would be higher than the average oven can reach... Anything with .8% carbon down to .4% would work, I know one fellow who made a set out of HC railroad spikes and that might just be the best thing to use them for as far as knives go.
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