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GEzell

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Posts posted by GEzell

  1. I've found two metal ferrules, and neither has very good documentation or providence....

    This is from eBay- 

    VERY RARE GENUINE ANGLO-SAXON SEAX & FERRULE- (Wheeler type IV)

    £155.00577494c93daf657c69e9b18c17053d35.jpg

    It doesn't say what the ferrule is made of, it appears to be possibly copper alloy?

    Another, if the dating is correct, made of silver.... http://www.time-lines.co.uk/saxon-epigraphic-knife-bolster-and-tang-024789-39957-0.html

    024789.jpg

    Both of these could be fakes, but also could be genuine...

  2. A little critique on the blade shape...

    This style of seax usually has a slightly longer clip, and usually looks better with a slightly longer clip.  This makes for a fine point which can be reinforced by changing the grind angle towards the tip.  

    This style of seax always tapers in profile from the clip to the tang, the spine and the edge were never parallel.  The widest part of the blade was at the 'hump', and as it approached the handle it narrowed.

    This type of seax was always a hidden-tang, as were the vast majority of other styles of seax.  I've been searching for a decade and have only found one seax of this type with the handle intact, the Aachen seax, which has a metal ferrule/cap on the butt end.  Period illustrations often show some type of ferrule but it's impossible to tell what type of material and the exact construction.  Extraordinarily few have survived, which leads me to believe that they were typically organic materials.  

    Earlier, continental broadsaxes had long handles, and it's very likely that this trend also applied to the later Saxon style seax.  The Aachen seax has an approximately 10" blade with a handle over 8" long, and the surviving sheaths and period artwork indicate that these proportions were typical.

    One other thing... It's very rare to find a perfectly straight line on these seaxes, it's always very slight subtle curves, including the edge.

    23131707_10212922798296349_7234632998424691794_n.jpg

  3. 17 hours ago, Gary Mulkey said:

    George--We need a little more info.  Are you looking for curly ash wood for a handle?

    Yes, and an oversized handle at that.  It doesn't matter if it's burl, curl, or crotch as long as it's got nice figure.

    Alan, I'll give Dunlap a call, maybe they'll pick out a nice piece for me.

  4. NJSB: Carbon 0.807 Silicon 0.32 Manganese 0.54 Chromium 0.503 Vanadium 0.153

    AKS: Carbon 0.82 Silicon 0.22 Manganese 0.42 Chromium 0.66 Vanadium 0.2

    Overall I doubt anyone could tell the difference.  Aldo's might be a little tougher (more silicon) and not quite as hard (less chromium and Vanadium).

  5. 1080 and 1084 are the easiest steels to heat-treat, and are also easy to forge, sand, and polish.  They also make for a good knife.

    If you're going to be sending them out for heat-treating you have a lot more options...

    • Like 1
  6. You posted a few seconds before I did Alan...:)

    I've seen Ariel's work, but the thread I have in mind isn't him.  I was thinking it was one of our European friends, perhaps Greg Verizhnikov, but I'm not finding it...

  7. I remember a thread here where a guy was making some beautiful blades incorporating copper into patternwelded steel... I'm trying to find that thread again, and after searching through 50+ pages I've arrived at the conclusion that I should just ask somebody.

  8. There's basically three ways to straighten a warp.

    The first way I've already described, after the quench but before martensite forms.  Quench long enough to get past the pearlite nose, then straighten by hand (with thick gloves) before the blade cools past 400-500°.... This is also where the aluminum plates come in (they don't have to be aluminum, steel and even wood will work), they can be used to keep everything straight until the blade has fully cooled.

    The second method is to straighten during the temper by clamping the blade to a hunk of steel, over-correcting a little past straight.  This can take a few tries to get right, but works most of the time.

     

    The third method involves three points in a vise, a torch, and bad odds of breaking and/or over-heating the blade.... Avoid this method if at all possible.

  9. You have a window between approximately 800° and 450° where the blade has missed the pearlite nose but hasn't started turning into martensite yet... That is, the blade is still soft.  During this time you can fix any warps by hand, with heavy gloves of course.  Once it drops below 400-450° martensite (hardened steel) begins to form and it starts becoming brittle.

  10. The only tempering chart I've been able to find for 80crv2 (https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/zdata-bladesteelC-1080+.htm) shows you would need to temper at 575° to reach 55HRC, which is a bit hotter than my kitchen oven will go (I do have a drum forge/furnace that will stabilize at that temp with the burner barely sputtering, but that doesn't help you)... I should have checked that before I commented earlier.  That said, maybe a different steel would be better for this purpose.

    I personally like a throwing knife to be able to function as a knife (otherwise it's not really a knife, is it?), even though it is a little softer I wouldn't want it dead soft... Again, personal preference here, I'd want a solid spring temper, say 48 to 55HRC, maybe even a little harder with the right steel.  I can understand why others might feel differently however.

  11. When I was a teenager I had some throwing stars that had that type of grind.  I've been meaning to go out to my grandparent's old place with a metal detector to see if I could recover any of the two dozen or so that I lost there... Someone came up with the same idea you have, though I can't recall what they're calling it, there is a line of tactical knives that uses that geometry.

  12. Of the steels you mention, the only one I would use for a thrower would be 80crv2.  I would not suggest 1095 or o1 simply because the tempering temperature would be higher than the average oven can reach... Anything with .8% carbon down to .4% would work, I know one fellow who made a set out of HC railroad spikes and that might just be the best thing to use them for as far as knives go.

  13. From my experience, along with what the experts have written, 1095 can be oil hardened in thinner sections but you can expect the autohamon effect... I get a a little autohamon quenching 1095 in parks#50, and a lot in warmed canola.

    From my experiments, agitation during the quench is extremely important with shallow hardening steels.  Plunge it into the oil, and use a slicing motion, waving the blade back and forth but NOT side to side until the blade has cooled to black.  Pull it out, check for warps and quickly straighten as needed, then back into the oil until it's cool enough to handle... Then wipe clean and into the tempering oven.

    • Like 4
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