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GEzell

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Everything posted by GEzell

  1. From my experience, along with what the experts have written, 1095 can be oil hardened in thinner sections but you can expect the autohamon effect... I get a a little autohamon quenching 1095 in parks#50, and a lot in warmed canola. From my experiments, agitation during the quench is extremely important with shallow hardening steels. Plunge it into the oil, and use a slicing motion, waving the blade back and forth but NOT side to side until the blade has cooled to black. Pull it out, check for warps and quickly straighten as needed, then back into the oil until it's cool enough to handl
  2. I think they were calling it 1080+... I notice they're calling it 80crv2 now.
  3. I should have given you this link first... This explains what each process does. http://www.cashenblades.com/heattreatment.html I consider normalizing and thermal cycling (that is, multiple normalizations with descending heats) essential for a forged blade, as this refines the grain and puts the steel in an ideal state for hardening. Annealing serves only one purpose, to make the steel soft enough to drill and file easily. The only time I anneal is if I'm having trouble drilling holes in a full tang, otherwise I rarely bother with it. Your difficulty with your equipment will b
  4. That's the nice thing about a convex grind, it doesn't require any special equipment. See that ridge where the primary and secondary bevels meet? Sand it into a facet. Now you have two new ridges either side of that facet... Make them facets. And again. And again. Now blend. Wah lah, you have a convex geometry.
  5. This might be of use... http://www.cashenblades.com/steel/1080.html
  6. It's good to leave the edge a little thick as it helps it survive the heat-treatment, but afterwards it needs to be thinned down. You can use a coarse stone or sandpaper... I would suggest 60 grit. A method I've been using for a very long time now is to convex the blade at this point, just enough to thin the edge down to a proper thickness... For me, I take the edge down to nothing, I want a burr along the edge, but that might be too extreme for some...
  7. Kiln shelves is an option I'm looking into, they are cheap enough to be replaced occasionally and should be immune to flux. Now if someone just made some with raised edges....
  8. That's Mr Andersen's work, not mine, but there's more pics of it here.... https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/karl-andersen-js-turkish-twist-takedown-w-david-seward-sheath.1338600/
  9. The GSA site is interesting in that it shows why certain alloys are used and the effects of different compositions, hopefully to give an idea of what alloy would be best suited for forging... After more reading, I've confirmed that leaded nickel silver is indeed hot-short. I'm preparing to do some forging with it myself... There's an interesting video on YouTube that shows it being forged... https://youtu.be/92DcXHpJXPA
  10. I found this thread which has useful information... And this... https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/12764-forging-nickle-alloys/ And this... https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113754
  11. Yes. I usually use 1/16" brass pins. It's not really that much extra work, and it does guarantee perfect alignment. Hah, that's the term I was trying to remember, they're called alignment pins. I learned about them from Karl Andersen and they are so useful wether the knife is a takedown or not.
  12. One thing I've found that helps immensely for multiple piece handles that will need to be disassembled and reassembled multiple times is little pins, running parallel to the tang... There's a term for them but it slips my mind at the moment... anyway, all the pieces are pinned together so they can be worked on individually or together as a unit. If done precisely, everything snaps together like Legos...:)
  13. Looking good man, that's some lovely Cocobolo and I bet it will be twice as cool fluted. I've done just enough wire inlay to be dangerous... I've only worked with inlaying maple, which I've heard is very easy compared to tropical hardwoods like Cocobolo, and I'm not sure the methods would transfer from one to the other. Anyway, Joe Keeslar has some good videos on YouTube that should get you started.
  14. I don't recall seeing those, but I thought I'd share these.... Mine get a lot of use. https://m.harborfreight.com/15-inch-long-reach-locking-pliers-97609.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot provided
  15. I like to forge san-mai pretty close to shape, including forging the edge bevels. When forging the bevels you need to pay close attention to working it evenly from both sides so the core stays centered. Something that I've found helps immensely is grinding 45° bevels on what will become the edge then forge the bevels... This virtually guarantees that the core will be centered along the edge.
  16. Usaknifemaker.com is now selling Parks 50 by the gallon... That said, it's really too fast for leafsprings, imo.
  17. Beautifully forged sir! Very impressive.
  18. Excellent work man, that is an epic sword. The inlay and patinas give it a lot of personality.
  19. You have covered the evidence well, I know of no other examples (but I am constantly on the lookout for more). The resemblance between the fittings on the Aachen seax sheath and some belt fittings makes me wonder if some artifacts have been misidentified. One would think that there would be an occasional sheath fitting showing up in the archeological record, but I've had no luck identifying any. I'm also keeping an eye out for period illustrations in manuscripts, surely more exist that we haven't noticed. Thanks for putting all this together.
  20. What a classy knife, and congratulations on the move and new shop.
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