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tsterling

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    http://www.sterlingsculptures.com
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    Whidbey Island, Washington (the state), USA

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  1. tsterling

    Rotary Tool Bits for Wood Carving

    There are hundreds of different rotary carving bits...I have lots of them and have spent lots of money on them, but end up using only carbide ball burrs and occasionally a long narrow tapered diamond point for tight cleanup. The best place I've found for them is here: http://www.lascodiamond.com/LascoProducts-3-32-Carbide.html I have no financial interest in this company. I've marked the ones I use for small scale/detailing in the image below. Purchase only carbide, high speed steel burs will burn out very quickly. You might find this free download of use for detailed carving with power tools: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=315 Best of luck, Tom
  2. tsterling

    What do you present/deliver your knives in?

    Find an easier/quicker way to make a box...in about an hour, link below.. Presentation box tutorial also google “bandsaw box” for another quick method.
  3. Have you thought about publishing as epubs like Kindle?
  4. tsterling

    Napped Finish?

    https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/20922-knapped-steel-neck-knife/#comment-194988
  5. tsterling

    Article in Knife magazine

    Thanks Alan!
  6. tsterling

    Article in Knife magazine

    What is "Knife" magazine? Google doesn't bring up one...
  7. tsterling

    Question for a friend.

    It's probably just mineralized and not really petrified. Mineralized walrus will carve just like ivory or solid bone. The center of the tusk will have a pattern that looks like solid cut cauliflower. You can download my free eBook about carving netsuke (with a little more info about carving ivory) here: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=315 Good luck! Tom
  8. tsterling

    Magna Graver GR-2900

    JP, For $10, you got a deal, assuming it works. It's good for basic engraving. This will answer most of your questions, sharpening gravers is the first task - if you can't do that, Do Not Pass Go: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24166 Best of luck! Tom
  9. tsterling

    Making antler's white again?

    I'd enhance what you have. A strong solution of potassium permanganate painted on carefully with a small paintbrush (several applications) will radically darken the porous parts of the antler (eventually almost black) and a light sanding will lighten the more solid areas. Don't get it on the bark or that will change color as well. Allow to dry completely, then seal. This is not a stain, even though it looks purple in solution. It is a strong oxidizer, and oxidizes the organic material to dark brown or blackish. In other words, a very rapid aging. Try this link for an example: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/800-potassium-permanganate-on-antler/page__hl__potassium__fromsearch__1 Good luck! Tom
  10. tsterling

    Has anyone made a lugged (winged) spear?

    I read once that the lugs were designed for fighting on horseback. The lugs prevented the spear from going in so deep, allowing the rider to have a chance of hanging on to the spear as he passed by at high speed, pivoting the unfortunate victim around for a higher chance of extracting the spear, thus not disarming the rider at first contact with the enemy. I have no idea if this is real or fiction. It does sound good, however.
  11. tsterling

    Help with deep relief carving

    A couple of comments... Slipping is happening because your carving technique is wrong. While I've had slips in my carving career, each and every time it was because I was lax with my technique, and I knew better. There should never be a time where your blade is so uncontrolled that it would travel more than a few millimeters if something unexpected should occur. You should get or make some appropriate carving blades, gouges, veiners and chisels. Better wood will help. For complex designs like Celtic knots or Viking twisties, closer grained wood will help a lot. If terms like veiner, stop cut, cutting with the grain are foreign to you, then some real instruction is needed. Where are you located? I would be surprised if there is not a woodcarving group near you where you can get a little help. Failing that, here's a link to a free eBook on my website that might help. It's probably a bit advanced for your carving stage, but maybe it will provide a little insight: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=315 Hope this helps! Tom
  12. tsterling

    Question - Decent Pneumatic engraver?

    Simple Engraving for Knifemakers, try this link: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24166
  13. tsterling

    Another new one for ICCE

    Sweet! Nice lines and colors. Tom
  14. tsterling

    Question Regarding Wooden Boxes for Knives

    Here's a tutorial on my website/blog I made about making small presentation boxes. Hope it helps... http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=882 And if you scroll down this page (http://www.bladegallery.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=721&cat=Sterling%2C+Tom) to the Sold area, you'll see lots of examples of my little presentation boxes. Not all of them have the hinge mechanism, some are even simpler. Good luck, Tom
  15. tsterling

    Tiger and moon friction folder WIP

    Well done, Tiaan. You've made major step ups in your skill levels! I'm really looking forward to seeing this guy finished. Tom
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