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tsterling

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Everything posted by tsterling

  1. Absolutely sweet piece of work, Jake! Much respect. Tom
  2. There are hundreds of different rotary carving bits...I have lots of them and have spent lots of money on them, but end up using only carbide ball burrs and occasionally a long narrow tapered diamond point for tight cleanup. The best place I've found for them is here: http://www.lascodiamond.com/LascoProducts-3-32-Carbide.html I have no financial interest in this company. I've marked the ones I use for small scale/detailing in the image below. Purchase only carbide, high speed steel burs will burn out very quickly. You might find this free download of use for detailed carving with power tools: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=315 Best of luck, Tom
  3. Find an easier/quicker way to make a box...in about an hour, link below.. Presentation box tutorial also google “bandsaw box” for another quick method.
  4. Have you thought about publishing as epubs like Kindle?
  5. https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/20922-knapped-steel-neck-knife/#comment-194988
  6. What is "Knife" magazine? Google doesn't bring up one...
  7. It's probably just mineralized and not really petrified. Mineralized walrus will carve just like ivory or solid bone. The center of the tusk will have a pattern that looks like solid cut cauliflower. You can download my free eBook about carving netsuke (with a little more info about carving ivory) here: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=315 Good luck! Tom
  8. JP, For $10, you got a deal, assuming it works. It's good for basic engraving. This will answer most of your questions, sharpening gravers is the first task - if you can't do that, Do Not Pass Go: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24166 Best of luck! Tom
  9. I'd enhance what you have. A strong solution of potassium permanganate painted on carefully with a small paintbrush (several applications) will radically darken the porous parts of the antler (eventually almost black) and a light sanding will lighten the more solid areas. Don't get it on the bark or that will change color as well. Allow to dry completely, then seal. This is not a stain, even though it looks purple in solution. It is a strong oxidizer, and oxidizes the organic material to dark brown or blackish. In other words, a very rapid aging. Try this link for an example: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/800-potassium-permanganate-on-antler/page__hl__potassium__fromsearch__1 Good luck! Tom
  10. I read once that the lugs were designed for fighting on horseback. The lugs prevented the spear from going in so deep, allowing the rider to have a chance of hanging on to the spear as he passed by at high speed, pivoting the unfortunate victim around for a higher chance of extracting the spear, thus not disarming the rider at first contact with the enemy. I have no idea if this is real or fiction. It does sound good, however.
  11. A couple of comments... Slipping is happening because your carving technique is wrong. While I've had slips in my carving career, each and every time it was because I was lax with my technique, and I knew better. There should never be a time where your blade is so uncontrolled that it would travel more than a few millimeters if something unexpected should occur. You should get or make some appropriate carving blades, gouges, veiners and chisels. Better wood will help. For complex designs like Celtic knots or Viking twisties, closer grained wood will help a lot. If terms like veiner, stop cut, cutting with the grain are foreign to you, then some real instruction is needed. Where are you located? I would be surprised if there is not a woodcarving group near you where you can get a little help. Failing that, here's a link to a free eBook on my website that might help. It's probably a bit advanced for your carving stage, but maybe it will provide a little insight: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=315 Hope this helps! Tom
  12. Simple Engraving for Knifemakers, try this link: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24166
  13. Sweet! Nice lines and colors. Tom
  14. Here's a tutorial on my website/blog I made about making small presentation boxes. Hope it helps... http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?page_id=882 And if you scroll down this page (http://www.bladegallery.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=721&cat=Sterling%2C+Tom) to the Sold area, you'll see lots of examples of my little presentation boxes. Not all of them have the hinge mechanism, some are even simpler. Good luck, Tom
  15. Well done, Tiaan. You've made major step ups in your skill levels! I'm really looking forward to seeing this guy finished. Tom
  16. Grind the tang farther down into the blade so you can put a decent handle on it (maybe elk or moose antler, carved as a fish club), and think up a great story about how it washed up onto Haida shores and was upcycled. Make a cool low count damascus habaki with gold inlay in NW style, think up some wild inlaid menuki. Not every old thing is worthy of being preserved untouched, especially if it was already "doctored" by an unskilled somebody else... Tom
  17. Here's the completion of the last part of the collab that is my part. It's a "Fusion of Cultures" thing, and is engraved in eighth inch copper, and is a bit under 3 inches long. You'll have to guess what it is for a little while... This thing goes to Geoff's playroom on Wednesday afternoon, so tag, he's It...
  18. Smoothed the nose, mouth/teeth and tongue with a small punch. I think we'll call that area done. Not too much more to go on the face, then on to the surprises...
  19. OK, I'll play... Here's the start of the collab with Geoff Keyes (5elementsforge.com). Geoff has hot forged it out of some very gnarly and ancient wrought iron. The top image is straight from the forge, and the shiny image is cleaned up with the design transferred, ready for carving. Here the major lines are all engraved. Between the blue arrows you can see some of the wrought iron problems - voids filled with slag and rust that tear when engraved (don't blame the smith, these are pre-Geoff). I also couldn't resist fiddling with one eye just to see how it will look. The other eye sculpted, as well as the eyebrow(?)... I spent the morning carving the nose, mouth and teeth - now ready for smoothing and sculpting with a punch tool. Compare the mouth area with the already finished eyes...it actually carves very nicely. I have a few surprises coming, some in the nature of a "Fusion of Cultures," so stay tuned...
  20. I have a concrete floor, and it doesn't help. The small stuff just falls into the nearest pile of detritus and disappears anyway. So, unless you're a clean freak, try the mats. At least when they become knee deep in crap, you can lift them up and shake it off...just sayin'
  21. Birchwood Casey Super Blue (gun bluing), available at any place that sells firearms. Paint on bare metal after good cleaning, neutralize with household ammonia when the bronze is as dark as you want. Lather, rinse, repeat... Good luck! Tom
  22. Really elegant, Jim! David Carlin once told me "a good carving tells a story and doesn't wear out over time." I've always tried to follow that advice in my own work, and I can pretty well see a volume the size of War and Peace in this. Well done! Don't wait so long to return to knife work next time... Tom
  23. The William Henry folks sent me the finished images today, so here they are!
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