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Everything posted by tsterling

  1. Hi Tedster, That looks pretty cool! I liked your Japanese mask as well. Don't you think it's time for a step-by-step tutorial on this technique? I do! Ted! Ted! Ted! Ted!... Tom
  2. Bitten! Now your transition to the Dark Side is complete... Tom
  3. Thanks, guys, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Scott and Kevin, glad I could be of service... Nate, I find 416 and 410 stainless cuts just fine, maybe a little harder than mild steel. I use it when I want a silver background, although CP and Grade 2 titanium is sneaking up on me (but not 6Al4V). The 300 series stainless steel isn't nearly as nice - a lot tougher, not so much harder, but resistant, and not as clean cutting. I'm an engraving wimp and I shy away from 303 and 304. The bad news is the 300 series is the stuff you want for rust resistance, as the 400 series will rust and is mor
  4. Here are two knife scales I just finished for William Henry Studios. This is their B30 model, and the scales are 416 stainless steel. I’ve placed two main inlays on them, a dragonfly and a butterfly, both in shibuichi (25% silver, 75% copper) and 24k gold. Photos are courtesy of William Henry Studios. The rest of the engraving is done in a Japanese metal carving technique called shishiaibori. The technique starts out with very deep external outlines (takes me three times around with three different gravers, wide to thin, to get deep enough and cutting heavily each time). The
  5. Awesome looking! I really like using the tang as a decorative element inside the basket twist. Tom
  6. You might want to rethink the date portion of your signature. Consider this: made in 2014, it goes up for sale in 2018 (for whatever reason), the prospective client begins to wonder why it has taken so long to sell, decides to move on to the next table because now there is (unfounded) doubt in his mind... This business is tough enough without shooting yourself in the foot. Tom
  7. That's a pretty one, George! Pleasing shape, good looks and craftmanship - I'd say you nailed it all around. In keeping with my policy of no good deed going unpunished, now you need to make another just like it... Tom
  8. Hi Guys, Glad you like the fish, even though some of you apparently don't eat sardines. Your generous feedback is very encouraging to me, and I owe all of you a great debt for helping me get here. It's been a fun ride, and I learned stuff as well. Only a few thousand more engraving and bladesmithing miles to go........... Tom
  9. Hi Guys, Thanks for the generous feedback. You all put a smile on my face this morning! I'm glad you're liking my little slice of craziness, it was just a fun thing to do... Tom
  10. Yes, you heard right - a dried sardine scalpel. What's it for? Well, for filleting sardines, of course. The reliquary box is 3 5/8 inches long, and made from bocote hardwood, 416 stainless steel, sterling silver, moose antler and dark cow horn, with a copper opener key. The knife is 3 1/2 inches long, with a 1 1/8 inch blade, and is made from 1075 carbon steel. The knife scales are of 25% shibuichi (a Japanese art alloy of 25% silver, 75% copper), with silver pins and double inlaid eyes of moose antler and dark cow horn. The knife and knife stand both store away inside the r
  11. Yeah, but now I'm too zoned out in my happy place to employ them...
  12. Love it! Direct hit - you sank my battleship... Tom
  13. Nice job, Clint. That works! Now how about a rawhide sheath to go with it? Here's a link to the best rawhide tutorial I know of: http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/19744#.Ur8GLnnYnKk For some pictures of nice rawhide sheaths Google John cohea rawhide sheath and also Daniel Winkler rawhide sheath or maybe Karen Shook rawhide sheath Tom
  14. Go for a really aged look, and add some thick silver wire staples (12 or 14 gauge), sort of like suturing the wound. I've used lots of simulated repairs in my work, and they've proven popular - gives that relic sort of look. Tom
  15. Thanks for the hints, Jim. I'll give them a try! Tom
  16. Hi Jim, OK, you've got me interested! A couple of questions - Is your drift in image 4 an old bur shaft? What does the point look like? I'm tired of buying tiny fragile drill bits... Also, lately I've been engraving the lines first, then sawing. Which way is best? I've finally seemed to make peace with 8/0 saw blades...But inquiring minds want to know. Thanks, Tom
  17. Awwww, he's so cute. You must be a proud daddy, Petr. And what does the munchkin have in his hands in the second image? Tom
  18. Very cool, Petr! Just what I've come to expect from you. But my favorite details are the copper hangers you've forged - really adds a unique look. And is that a flint striker in the end of the sheath or is Alan correct (either way, I like it)? Tom
  19. Nice one, Jake. Looking forward to the carving. Wish I could be there to watch the magic moment when you oil the wood. Tom
  20. You don't need anything fancy for holding something large like a knife blade. Above is a large wooden pitch block (I'm guessing about 12 inches square) with pitch built up on top. This one is used by Ford Hallam, who carves/chisels exceptional Japanese-style metalwork. This block might have hollows cut in it and lead poured in to increase it's weight if the block doesn't have enough mass to resist your chisel blows. You would do well to check out what he and other talented metalworkers do on: http://followingtheironbrush.org Do a search for pitch and pitch bowl on the forum, and you s
  21. Thanks for the hot bluing info, Tiaan.. I've been resisting going in that direction, but your results are so encouraging that I'm going to have to reconsider. Excellent carving info - thanks for the WIP, and I'm really looking forward to the next! When you do that one, let's see the tools as we'll;) Tom
  22. Thanks, guys! Tiaan, I was just admiring your little bark friction kozuka, very nicely done. Here's a link to a nice Youtube video about the cube twist that got me started: Tom
  23. Very well done, Tiaan! That's some of the best bark I've seen. It's also such a nice flat dark color - what patina method did you use? Now for your next one, let's add some vermin lurking under the bark. You guys in South Africa should have some real doozies to play with............ And please tell me you took some WIP pics as you made this? If so, let's see them... Tom
  24. Hi Cook, Thanks for the kind words. You can see sort of a step by step here: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/?p=2374 This one was a lot of fun, and a little bit of a headache. I did discover W1 doesn't like to be bent while cold - my first try at the cube twist went really well, but there was a tiny little unstraight place at the pommel end. It just needed the tiniest of bends, and after all, the steel had been heated quite hot for the twisting and should have been soft...snap! I suspect W1 does a little bit of air-hardening, so it was on to the second try..... Tom
  25. Thanks, guys! I'm stunned by your responses, and humbled by the number of really excellent bladesmiths who have chosen to comment on this tiny thing. I really appreciate the feedback! Thanks, Tom
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