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Everything posted by tsterling

  1. Here's mine: http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/
  2. I highly recommend Ray Cover (just south of St Louis). I took his intermediate class a couple of years back, and he really jumped up my skills. He gives both multi-person classes and individual instruction. Well worth it! Not only is he an excellent engraver, but was a professional teacher and actually has good teaching skills! http://rcoverengraving.com Best of luck! Tom
  3. Here are 4 tutorials concerning making tiny scrapers for use in netsuke carving. The first three are by Clive Hallam, an internationally recognized netsuke carver. They will also help you smooth the relieved background areas on your handle. You can use the same techniques to make different shaped scrapers for difficult areas. http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1361 http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1494 http://followingtheironbrush.org/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1859 And a little different approach by me for use on metal, but also works on
  4. Hi Dave, I just figured out how to salvage your grind-through - enlarge the opening until you get back to solid metal, cut a thick copper piece to fit the football shaped opening, peen it over on both sides just like a rivet, then carve faces into the copper on both sides. Should look pretty cool. Then delete these posts and claim you intended that all along...
  5. Hi Marat and Martin, Thanks. I hope the tutorial is helpful to your knifemaking! Tom
  6. Most excellent, Jim! I especially like the little sheath/box thingy - gives it a particularly nice presentation. It's got everything that says elegant, subtle, and, well, just Kelso. Tom
  7. If it is not obviously fossil ivory to even the most casual of observers (meaning very brown or black areas), then you run the chance of confiscation, lots of hassle trying to get it back, and perhaps being pilfered before the onerous process is complete. And since it is walrus, you are dealing with marine stuff, not just mammoth ivory. Customs and Fish/Game seem to be "shoot first and ask questions later" about ivory shipments. If I really wanted this commission (and I would not), then I would contact Boone Trading Co and get some documented mammoth ivory instead. They are pretty good
  8. Slim, pointy and very pretty! I vote for for the texture. Tom
  9. I've done it before, and got some pretty interesting pattern. You will get an etched pattern with pattern welded single-type steel in the same manner as welded cable. The "melted" welds etch at a different rate than the clean, unwelded steel. Of course, your mileage might vary. As Alan said, it may depend on the composition of the bandsaw steel. Oh, and don't try this with the bimetal blades. I've heard they don't weld. One way to get the pattern to be more pronounced after etching is to cold blue (gun blue) the blade, followed by light sanding with really fine paper on a hard backin
  10. I use potassium permanganate. Here's a link to a tutorial: http://www.thecarvingpath.net/forum/index.php?/topic/800-potassium-permanganate-on-antler/
  11. Try asking your question: http://thearbalistguild.forumotion.com They have lots of information, lots of folks make their own crossbows, and lots of ideas (some good, some bad...) for "embellishment." Tom
  12. Spear. Too many knives make Geoff a dull boy... Google "Assegai," add a little steampunk, make a Serge-style copper bolster-ferrule-thingy and wow us all. Oh, and add a skull crusher doodad on the butt end. Baseball stitched rawhide wrap at the balance point. Call it a blade smith medicine lance. Tom
  13. Thanks, guys, I'm really stoked by your kind words to this thing! Owen, yes, the reliquary case is mainly to keep the damn thing from getting out, but it also keeps it quiet, since it keeps insisting it needs more cool fluff added. Tom
  14. Thanks, Mark, but I think I'm going to draw the line at making my own steel. That's just too far off the deep end, even for me... Tom
  15. Alan, you replied within 5 minutes of this post? Dude, we need to see about getting you a life... So, the concept. Well, I was between major projects, desperately needing a new one. I was out of airspeed and ideas, and I was beginning to panic, so I fell back on my old standby - sitting on the couch and going through my file of inspirational photos and memory lists. So, I wandered over to YouTube on my TV, searched for forging or blacksmith or somesuch, and in a very roundabout way I stumbled across this: [/url] The basic idea sprang from that, because the simple twist he demonst
  16. My latest major project, the Dragonslayer Reliquary (and The Project From Hell). I guess you can call it finished, but it turned into one of those projects where it became more abandoned than completed - it just kept insisting that I add another element, then another, then another and so forth... I seem to have a lot of those. Anyway, it's a fantasy integral poniard dagger, made from 1045 carbon steel, 15 inches overall length. The reliquary is fabricated from a brass rail from the bar in a famous hotel in Bellingham, WA, brass rod, boxwood, black walnut, desert ironwood, fossil ivory a
  17. Cool! Grampa's sawn-off straight razor Tom
  18. I sell a tutorial for a foolproof Celtic knotwork method for the princely sum of $10 for the advanced part, but the basic tutorial is absolutely free. Here's a link to the free part:http://www.handengravingforum.com/showthread.php?t=6047 Here's a link to an animated GIF of the basic method (the forum won't let me post the GIF directly) - http://www.sterlingsculptures.com/forumposts/celtic_plaitwork.gif This simple grid can be expanded in length or width, stretched or curved to fit just about anything. The advanced methods include Celtic cutwork and circles for some really elegant
  19. Now you're talking, Paul! Looking pretty good Tom
  20. Above is the beginning of a practice helmeted viking to go on the rear ends of the dagger handle, again penciled in over white permanent marker.  Above are the engraved lines to replicate the shape on the handle.  Unlike the dragon head which was quite angular, the viking head needs a nice smooth, rounded area carved with carbide burs.  In the above two images you can see my paper laser transfer and the viking head after engraving in the lines. Again, since this carving is 5/8 of an inch long, I've kept everything pretty basic and simple. Above an image through th
  21. While it is beyond the scope of this tutorial, I decided to give you a look at a little more advanced engraving and carving. This is one of the things that you can be working towards after learning the basics. I'm not using the simple hammer and chisel graver we used in the tutorial, I'm using my pneumatic Lindsay Airgraver and stereo microscope for all of this engraving. Of course, with diligence and careful work, hammer and chisel engraving can accomplish the same thing.  Above is an image of the forward end of the dagger handle and a scrap piece of the 1045 square steel bar. I'm g
  22. Here's a little more practical example of simple engraving on an actual knife. This is an integral misericorde/poniard kind of dagger thingy I'm working on, 15 inches overall length of forged square cross section 1045 steel bar, with hand filed finish on the pommel and blade.  As in the example above, I've engraved two lines on each face of the diamond cross section blade. The white stuff you see on the blade is white permanent marker. This stuff dulls the shine on steel, can be drawn on with a pencil, and helps me see my laser printer transfers better. I've used 4 laser printer tran
  23. You're welcome, Peter! And if, in your sword research you should run across how the ancients approached engraving, please let us know. Maybe old engraving tools are buried in the museum basements of Europe? And thanks to all of you for your kind words. I hope this thing works! Tom
  24. Oh, Ouch! Get well soon, Alan. And thanks for the lesson - at least maybe a little good will come from it... Tom
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