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Nick Wheeler

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Everything posted by Nick Wheeler

  1. Hey Guys, I don't get to post too much here anymore, but I am still very much a dedicated fan of this site. Don is THE man that got me into clay hardening... and it was with a knife made that way that I was so honored to receive the George Peck award. Thank you for steering me down the path that was right for me Don. First two shots are by Eric at Point7, last three are by our very own Jim Cooper. I cannot tell you how elated I am with Jim's photos.... absolutely top drawer work. You are a wizard with your equipment my friend. The knife in the 2nd and 3rd shot was the George Peck knife. Thanks for looking
  2. That's frigg'n fantastic Michael! Great concept and killer execution. Love the hamon... is that a water quench? You're definitely taking it up my friend... MANY notches! -nick-
  3. Dan- I don't really have any good input, just hadn't talked to you in forever and wanted to say hey. I always got mixed results as well. I had a few that worked out as near to perfect as I could ask for, and many that the clay blew off way too easy (tried going into water and oil). It was much less of a problem going into oil... but I know your stubborn/crazy self would not consider such a thing I did like the very fine temp control for going into water. It's a loss less scarey putting a blade into water if you know you can soak it for a little while at a nice and low temp. Sometimes I wish I had never seen a hamon
  4. I'm going to be needing some new salt soon! Very cool additions Darren!!! -Nick-
  5. Oh sure Don... I follow your very strong lead and buy a 100# LG just in time to find out you are moving on to an air hammer. DAMN IT! For me, the hard part of justifying the purchase of an air hammer is the fact that it's such a small part of my bladesmithing. I've been to several full-time blacksmith shops and hot work is 80-95% of the total time involved in every project. I think hot work is something like 10-20% of the time I put into knives. Don't get me wrong... it's my favorite part!!! But most of my time is in finish work. Maybe if I get a raise at work I'll save up for an air hammer just so I don't feel left out -Nick-
  6. WOW, those are amazing!!!!! THANKS! What I would give to be able to walk through those mills and watch those men work. They'd probably think I'm nuts being so awed by something they drudge through day in and day out to provide for their families! Watching all those men pein that pin in the end of part one was nuts. Can you believe they can all be swinging 10-12 lb. hammers like that in such rythym??? WOW! It easy to see why industrial accidents helped the life expectancy be so low back then Also, did you notice they were all swinging "Japanese cutlers" hammers?
  7. Very cool Dick!!! Thanks for taking the time to share the idea AND the photos. The photos are worth a thousand words... or maybe a thousand bucks? This is really similar to the sanding plane JP Moss uses and even used to sell. Have you ever seen one of those? I built one but wasn't as precise as I should have been and it left a little to be desired. I love that you accounted for paper size. These look extremely handy and well thought out!
  8. I hate to even think about crossing over forums, but a good friend of mine that hangs out over at Bladeforums, Mike Fitzgerald (Fitzo) is a retired chemist and he is GREAT to talk to about this very sort of thing. I highly recommend you look him up, Mike may even be registered here as well
  9. Hey Folks- Looks like this one is sold, THANKS everybody!!! This one was ordered quite some time ago and the guy fell off the face of the earth. I've held onto it now for over a year and I'm thinking it's time to let it go to a good home 1,000 layer, tight ladder pattern in 1084/15N20 416 ss guard sambar stag handle with a single 416 ss pin hand-stitched 8/9 oz. vegetable tanned leather sheath Bill's custom case (ordered just for this knife) For what it's worth, this knife was featured in Knives 2007. $465 shipped first to email me at Merckman99@yahoo.com gets it THANKS! The pattern is very fine, but it is not faint or washed out as it seems to appear in my photos. I'm trying to get better! Thanks to Eric at Point7 for the first photo which is GREAT
  10. I started this one a LONG time ago, but it was a good thing as it gave me something for my table at the Reno show 8.25" blade of 320 layer random 1084/15N20 13.1875" oal 416 ss guard Ironwood handle leather sheath Thanks for look'n
  11. Guy- You're welcome! I know you CAN cut them with a band-saw, because Brent cut two of mine in half with an Ellis saw before he gave them to me. It should be noted that this is a $2,000 band-saw and not the $200 type most of us knifemakers have I cut them into chunks with an oxy/acet torch. I forged a bunch of it out and made a 12" camp/chopper out of it. It is VERY abrasion restistant and it cut like CRAZY. It was a beeyotch to hand-sand. It seemed to me to be right up there with L6 in toughness but that's just a generic comparison based on use and no labratory, official/repeatable testing. Let us know if you make anything out of it!!! -Nick-
  12. Guy- It's a drop spring off of a big rig. My exgirlfriend's brother is a wrench turner on big rigs and he gave me 3 of these. The three I have all came off of Navistar trucks and are all 6150. Brent showed me the manufacturers information and they were clearly listed as 6150 spring steel. I think they weigh about 60 lb! I hate to say it, but I know some hyster drivers at work that could turn their forks into something like that spring!!! -Nick-
  13. Wow, you really stepped up on this knife, I really like it!!! -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  14. Turned out gorgeous Don, I love it!!! :You_Rock_Emoticon:
  15. Thanks fellas Yea, this is the Gladiator 450 lb. I looked at all 3, and the 120 lb. Titan would work awesome for knives! The thick waste of these puts a huge amount of their mass right under the work. Another nice thing, is the entire thing (as are ALL Nimba anvils) is hardened tool steel, so I can draw on the horn REALLY fast, as the horn has amazing rebound. This big one is not NEEDED for blade work, but when I went up to Russel's shop to buy a 260 lb. Centurion... They had this one with a couple tiny pock marks in the face (so sold as a second) for a couple hundred more than the Centurion. I nearly broke my arm writing the check. After having this anvil for like a year or so, I can honestly say I would have never regretted buying a Gladiator at full price. EVERY bit of the energy you put into the hammer blow, goes into the work, rather than being dissipated into nowhere. Oh as far as reference, I'm 5'11" and about 220-230 (yea yea, I need to add the treadmill back into my daily gym regimen ) I was really wishing I had my 50lb LG working yesterday when I was hammering on this! Thanks guys! -Nick-
  16. Thanks Giuseppe Nope... I'm way too anal about heat-treating to try to thermal cycle and harden the 3V in my forge. If I had a higher working temp salt, I would do it in my digitally controlled salt bath and try the interupted oil quench that Crucible suggests in their literature. So...this one will be done in a digitally controlled heat-treating oven. Probably air hardened (between "quench plates"). Oh... and I never cease to smile when I walk past (and hammer on) my anvil! It's a purchase I've never regretted Thanks! -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  17. I've been working on my orders, but took a 2 hour or so break tonight and fired up the forge for fun. 3V is not an ideal steel for forging... in fact, it's a PITA But Chuck Bybee ( http://www.alphaknifesupply.com ) sent me a piece of wide stock that nobody wanted for stock-removal. I cut a piece off of it that was 1-3/8" wide (0.267" thick) and it's almost 7" long (you can see the remainder in the final pic). This stuff does not move easily, and will just dent mild steel dies in the press... so I had to get out the big hammer! Most of my forging is done with 1, 2 and 3 lb. hammers... this one is 12lb! It will usually squish steel into junk in a minute, but with this stuff it seemed just right! Of course 12 lb. is NOTHING to lift at the gym, but when you put it on the end of a stick and have to aim it... it somehow gets really heavy I ended up with what will be about a 10" bladed by 1-3/4 or 2" wide camp knife. I know Bailey forges this stuff, I'm not sure who else does... but I can see why not too many guys do Here it is with the profile cleaned up and the flats surface ground to remove scale and establish parallel sides. I like to forge really close to shape, so there was between 0.010-0.040" removal to get to the final shape at the grinder. I dont' think the raise in the spine shows in the pic of the blade on the anvil, but you can see it in this shot (I think).
  18. Here's one I made for Randy Morgan 2 years ago, but just now got photographed. 9" 1084 blade, clay hardened and polished, 120 layer twist damascus/fluted fittings, and stabilized Redwood burl handle. I have the knife now for some touch up polishing, and am going to TRY to take a pic of the blade under a black surface to try and show the hamon. This knife was my ice-breaker with Don 2 years ago... I walked up and said, "Hi Don... what do you think of this???" *while nervously sweating* Thanks for looking -Nick-
  19. Here's another knife... this ones a 4.25" bladed hunter... 1000 layer ladder with 416 guard and sambar stag handle. Another really great photo by Eric at Point 7. Thanks -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  20. Hey Guys- This is going to be one of my 5- Js test knives this June. 10.5" 1084 blade (full hardened with 1200X finish) , fluted 416 fittings, and Ironwood handle. I paid the judges off and got Best Bowie/Fighter with it back at the BAKCA show in August. The great photo was taken by Eric of Point 7 at the ABS Reno show. Thanks for looking
  21. I clean the blade with acetone, then take it over to the shop sink and wash it up really well with hot water, liquid Ivory soap, and a soft-bristled tooth-brush. I keep a paper towel handy, and wipe it down without touching it at all. I think what you need to do though, is add some dish detergent to your etchant. I etch hamon with Vinegar, and COULD NOT get a good, consistant etch until I started adding a few drops of dish detergent (the liquid Ivory works great for this as well). I pre-heat the vinegar and then wipe it on with cotton balls until I get the effect I want. Good luck -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  22. Yep Ric, that dang "guard" fit up. I filed in a diamond shaped hole, and went for a super-tight fit. It definitely took some time! I didn't know about the pitch deal! Thanks again everyone!!! -Nick-
  23. Randal, I think I might hate you just a little bit Okay, I'm over it. That's an awesome piece dude... VERY VERY cool! :35: -Nick-
  24. Thanks guys I realized the grind looks kinda washed out at the bottom near the bolster in my pic... and I'm not sure why, because it doesn't look like that in hand. Anyway THANKS -Nick-
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