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Nick Wheeler

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Everything posted by Nick Wheeler

  1. I was looking at Niko's puukko, and remembered I had this pic on my memory stick. This is a 120 layer twist damascus puukko that I made to teach a student I had here in the shop (yea yea, the blind leading the blind, blah blah blah ) the steps that I would follow to go about making such a knife. I really enjoyed making it, as it brought up some challenges I had not encountered before. The bolster is 416 ss, and the handle is stabilized CA buckeye burl with ss and Kydex spacers and ss pins. Thanks for look'n -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  2. Niko- That is great! I will be honest and say I used to have no interest in puukkos. But a group of knife users contacted me (nearly 3 years ago) about making them some blade blanks with a Scandi flare to them. I also had a bladesmithing student that is Finnish, and that's where his main interest is at. Because of that, I started researching them, and have discovered they are another outlet for some beautiful styles, as well as whicked sharp with a zero edge grind. VERY cool! -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  3. Daryl- I think a damascus icon such as yourself is nearly REQUIRED to own a Nazel... but most of us little knife peons can only dream :notworthy: There's a fella near here with a 3B, and I sure would love to figure out how to talk him out of it. Plus it would be a good idea to have some money for it I suppose -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  4. Really good look'n knife Lin! Very clean and with nice lines. Get them professionally photographed as often as you can afford it (think of it as part of an advertising budget). There are a lot of makers really well known, and not as much because they are great, as much as because they had lots of pro photos taken that were published in the books and magazines. So when you ARE making really nice knives like this, they should have a photo that will get them published! Just my $0.02 Keep 'em coming Lin! -Nick-
  5. Just think for a moment about this statement that I REALLY WAS TOLD by a knifemaker of 20 some years when I first got started- - - "I sure don't get all these guys spouting off about heating the quench oil to 100-some-odd-degrees.... Just don't heat the blade up so dang hot! Geez some people are stupid!" I have to admit, that at the time, I didn't know enough to make ANY argument against what he said. Now my brain hurts a little thinking back on it. You can do water and 5160, but it's sure tricky. I messed with it for about 2 years, and got to where I was around an 80-90% success rate. But that 10-20% sure hurts. And 5160 will harden in just about anything... probably even mud It is neat to see how amazingly, screaming hard it gets in water. I have found that I can get it just as hard in Park #50, without the cracking. Just a thought -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  6. Absolutely smoke'n Don!!! Super fantabulous! -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  7. Sorry Jamie, I swore I responded. I think I'm guilty of previewing my posts, and then forgetting to hit the "add reply" button! I haven't contacted the emails that Brian gave me, as I'm kind of holding out to see what's up with this 1080V... it might just be the cat's pajamas. I think it would be awesome in damascus with 15N20, as well as spectacular all on it's own. Still don't have my grubby hands on it though, so I can't say for sure. As a side note, I remember Brian telling me they had a bunch of 6" and 7" round stock W2 at Tremblay. I think I'd be building a big-ass press, or trying to buy the 1500# steam hammer that a local lady has in her husband's old shop. I think my Carlisle would just squirm looking at it. -Nick-
  8. Mark, you might want to contact David Mirabile up in Alaska. He'll give you an ear-full. I think Grant Sarver (the designer of the hammer) is pretty much a mechanical master mind, as well as a very talented blacksmith... but I haven't heard anything real great about the hammer. There is a pic of Wade Colter using one in one of Goddard's books, and in one of our all night BS sessions in the "Pit" at Blade, I tried to talk to Wade about it, and the only thing that happened was about 8 guys telling me to go buy a "Tom Clark" 110 lb. air hammer. I'd like to take that advice, but I don't have an extra 10 G's laying around at the moment. Someday??? -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  9. Is the stuff you got from Ray clean? I was thinking about getting some from him. The last bunch of 5160 I got was NOT clean. It had inclusions in it that didn't show up until you got to the very final grinding stages, or sometimes not until a 320X hand-rubbed finish. This stuff was 3/4" thick X 4" wide, and came from a spring shop, not from any knife supply out-fit. So it really blows to get it all forged down from stock that heavy and then find inclusions. Thanks! -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  10. I just don't really get it. I'm a lot stronger than your average Joe walking down the street, and I can't imagine using a hammer that large with good control and repeatable/consistant hammering. :banghead: I'd bet a wooden nickel that your grandpa had both hands on it while striking. You can do some serious damage with a 4 lb. hammer so long as you have good control and hit it while it's hot -Nick-
  11. Hey folks- I have been getting a lot of email from folks who read on here about me having a source for W2. WELL! That source was Mr. Brian Jones at Tremblay Tool Steels. Very very sadly Brian was diagnosed in 2004 with Leukemia. He has been in and out of the hospital, part of which included a transplant. SO... he is not able to work and ship out steel for us. As much as I like me some good 'ol W2... I definitely put Brian's health way ahead of that. He is a great husband and father that always bent over backward for me, and my good thoughts are for his 100% recovery. I apologize to any that I may have mislead about the W2... surely not my intention. On a side note, I will be getting some 1080 with Vanadium in it shortly for some testing. If it works out, then I'll be able to share here NO! I am not going to be selling it... just trying it out for a friend. It's already been lab tested and chemically proven to be 1080 with Vanadium. Thanks guys!!! -Nick-
  12. Wow, that was a great answer from Mike! I read somewhere that unless you feel like you've just changed the oil AND greased up a big rig... you haven't properly lubed a Little Giant! I finally got my shop rearranged to fit my 50 into it. I'll prolly have the money to buy Mike's 100 by the time I get the 50 running! lol Thanks for the very informative post Mike! -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  13. LOVE IT!!! :35: -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  14. From the pics it looks like a really nice anvil, and that's a GREAT price. -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  15. Thanks for the input Mike, it is always appreciated -Nick- http://www.wheelerknives.com
  16. Very nice! Just a thought... do you know how cheap you can buy a 3/4 hp grinder? I'll tell 'ya, it's a LOT less than you could have sold that knife for!!! As long as you're happy with the deal though, that's cool. I'm impressed -Nick-
  17. Nice and clean Lin! Only problem there, is it's pronounce Pa-Duke I think that's what it is as well... or she-oak, or beef-wood, or.... -Nick-
  18. As per height, the old stand-by blacksmith rule of thumb is to have it where you can just drag your fisted knuckles over the face while standing next to it. But many blacksmiths in old photos are all hunched over their anvil. I decided to try mounting my new anvil higher, and I ended up putting it right around wrist height (if standing up straight, next to the anvil). This is very comfortable for me, and I feel I have better control as well. -Nick-
  19. Randal- I like your style man... no bs is getting harder to find these days (in an overly "PC" world) If I were in a position to tear up the shop floor, I would have READILY dug a 4 or 5 foot deep hole and made my anvil post that much taller. The silicone caulk does a really nice job to "glue it down" and dampen ringing. People usually come to my shop and think my anvils are dead because they don't ring like a bell. But I sure like that solid thud when you smack a hot blade on them. Finally somebody telling me I'm not crazy! (well, AS crazy ) BTW- FULL TIME makes a world of difference. I still don't smack that thing anywhere close to where a blacksmith or swordsmith does though. But enough to know you don't want to cut corners. Working for 4 years as a personal trainer was proof enough of how uncomfortable working conditions could end up as life-long health problems for people. Thanks guys -Nick-
  20. Joss- I made mine with scrap 4X4's I had to plane them all down for a uniform thickness. Then I stacked them in an alternating pattern, and pre-drilled each board. I then put it all together with Loc-tite carpenter's glue, and 3" deck screws. It's completely flat/level, and VERY sturdy. It weighs about 100 lb. as well. -Nick-
  21. I have heard a lot of comments from guys saying a big anvil is macho and "harder to forge on" because you can't get close to it. But with a square base, I can stand close enough to lean on the dang thing if I want to. The mass certainly has a positive effect on the efficiency of hammer blows. I am like Randal... I figured this was a tool that will last me from 27 up to a point I'm no longer able to forge... which hopefully will be a good while So I'd get the one I really wanted. Oh, and my Gladiator was sold as a second, so I got that discount. That's one of the big factors that convinced me to bump up to the 450 from the 260. It is functionally PERFECT, it just has two little bitty poc-marks in the face, they look just like stray hammer marks, and have ZERO affect on using it. Actually, there were two 450's sitting right next to each other at Russel's shop, and I thought one was a first and the other was a second. When he told me they were both offered as seconds, it took me about 1/100th of a second to say I'd take the one. Then my conscience got to me (about 1 minute later) and I asked, "Are you SURE that this one on the left is not a first???" "Yes, see this little mark right here." "Okay, it's mine, it's mine, it's mine!!!!!" Joss.... You know you want that Gladiator Here is my Centurion and Gladiator next to one another (right before the Centurion went home with my friend Mike). -Nick-
  22. Too big? Absolutely not!!! I'll forewarn you though, I have a policy of $100 for visitor inflicted stray hammer dings! So far, I have not had to collect... but then again, so far after explaining that, no one else has actually hammered on it You should come down after I get the "new" hammer running Joss. -Nick-
  23. Andy- You're plenty welcome! I was treated wonderfully by the Jaquas, and completely love my anvil. Not like I want to sound preachy, but I don't think you will feel you hit the middle of the road with any of their anvils. I had the Centurion, and only got the Gladiator because I wanted one with sharp edges and after finding out about Russell's health, I figured it was best to do it sooner than later. The Centurion comes with crisp edges as well, but Russell had actually radiused them for the guy I bought it from. The Centurion really is a bladesmith's deam anvil! I smile everytime I use/walk by my Gladiator, but I would be doing the same thing with any one of their 3 anvils. Even if you can't get one of their anvils Andy, I'd really recommend you set up a time to go stop at their forge/office. Russell's shop is GREAT! His Nazel 3b and Chambersburg 750 are the stuff our wildest dreams are made of! : Well, I'm not trying to sound like an ad for Nimba... I was just REALLY impressed with both the Jaquas and their anvils. Please tell them I said hi if you stop by. Thanks! -Nick-
  24. With the thick waste and stubby build of Russel's anvils... I'm confident his 120 Titan would handle whatever knife/hawk work you throw at it. If you're going to pull the trigger on one, you best do it soon... -Nick-
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