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Everything posted by Protactical

  1. Hi, I would love to see the photos for this build again. I know you have built several other forges since, based on various pictureless threads . What is your current favorite?
  2. I have a small one like that it was designed for doing small knives and tools and uses an atmo burner. I can't say don't do it, the working area is fine, it is more a mater of your burner size and oxy mix. My guess is that the main advantage of following a recipee is that you don't have to figure out these issues for yourself.
  3. Can someone kindly tell me what kind of tape and where I can get it to make my own belts. I buy belts normally, but occasioanlly I get stuck, as I am now with my 1x42. I'm flush with 2" material and belts, but I don't like to burn those sharpening machine tools. I have a feeling that the answer will be some exotic tape I can't easily get right away, which is fine. If, however, there is a 95% OK tape I could use in the meantime... don't hold back. Thanks.
  4. Wow, that is one cheap drug dealer, returning their tanks for the refund. A few follow-ups and arrests might put an end to this problem.
  5. Hi Dan, did you see the thread over on Practical Machinist on restoring nines? There is a real marathon one there stretching over years. I know that you like to test out various solutions and will trypretty large projects so you might enjoy a concrete base as refered to in post 48. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showt...8005&page=3 I have three of these lathes and a Heavy 10.
  6. "they, by memory where using a bottle jack instead of the strut and star nut arrangement for adjusting the bottom roller. this might be something else worth considering? " Good point. That approach was rejected by the originator, from what I recall,.though I'm not sure why. Maybe just because getting a cylinder up and down one handed while wielding hot metal with the other is a stretch. Some of the guys who have used the thing might offer guidance.
  7. Two things about the height adjust, one is that if you are an internationally known smith with a well organized method of work and not perhaps the tendency to tackle a neck knife one day and break down ball bearing the next if you are smart enough not to hurt yourself and need to switch it up; etc... then you may never use the adjustible height feature. I think part of Chuck's rationale if I rememeber from his video was to be able to sit for less stressful operations, though it's a while since I saw the video... The other thing is that some of these anvils have a fuller hole in the off end, so you would need to whip it around on the engine lift just to get to that. Of course if you own a bunch of other anvils with fuller holes you are covered. I was also thinking that there are a bunch of mechanical hammers out there that use a post anvil construction for the lower jaw/anvil. As far as I can tell they don't go to the extreme of heat treating a thumping big piece of 4140 in super quench (though that is the part of the project that sounds like the most fun.) If anyone knows where I can get a piece of steel in the Toronto area, I wouldn't mind joining up to do a few heat treats for others. edit: I emailed Chuck he has 14 anvils left! I'd buy one if the shipping to Canada wasn't so steep. Maybe I can work out shipping one to Buffalo. Setting up to make them isn't that big a deal, but the cost of stuff like 50 gallons of quench and extra burners ads up. It's just one of those projects that gets you noticed in a residential neighbourhood.
  8. I bought Blade's Guide To Making Knives, thinking the forge stuff was in there. It's an excellent book with good articles all around, including an excellent one by Don on swords. I've been really slow getting around to a new welding forge so ideas are welcome.
  9. Thanks guys. I have a version of the vertical forge. I like atmospheric burners, but I may try Don's real version some day. Here is the quote I was looking for: "I realized that building the universal forge, one that was perfect for welding, forging, heat treating, and general forging was an impossible task, so in my shop I have many forges each built for each operation. They are all built off one basic design however and on this page I will lay out the design and construction of a basic forge." "My welding forge is a scaled up version of this unit. Look for more information and photos in Scott Hardy's soon to be released Knifemakers Directory."
  10. I've been searching and searching for a thread a year or so back on a new forge design Don has come up with that deals better with flux. I seem to remember the deal was that it was covered in a book he had contributed to. Anyone know the book, the thread, or barring all else, anyone have a nominee for the perfect welding forge, on the smaller side prefered.
  11. You might also have a look at historical japanese forges, since they are pretty low tech, and the sword tradition survived un-interupted. Tim's site has a link to a japanese belows/forge design. http://www.twinoaksforge.com/index.html
  12. I don't know enough about it, but it seems like an all around hardened anvil would not be a good thing. Isn't it partly the sadwich effect that provides the resiliance and also eliminates the posibility of fracturing it. As far as heat treating is concerned in Chuck's video he quenched it in super quench and then hosed it for about half an hour with a garden hose on pretty full. He used a hoist to handle the block, you need something that drops it fast but controls it, and you probably want to be off to the side when the thing pops. It is possible to make a hand grenade this way so really sweat the details on your sample and it's proper HT process.
  13. OK, appolagies first, i know i have created a number of pretty stupid threads about unrelated topic like corn burning heaters. It's just a measure of my respect for the general smarts of this group. Has anyone ever used the gas forge info they learned around here to make a BBQ? My old one is about the right size but falling appart, and news one can be quite a lot nicer with, SS, though pretty simple to fabricate overall. Anyone know of some interesting sites? My attempt to search BBQ just gets me to a lot of sites on Ribs recipees. Look everyone has to eat, and the right BBQ might do some interesting double duty tempering or something. Well maybe not, but I would settle for the food.
  14. Glad to hear all is well in Anvil land, I started to worry when I didn't hear back after Katrina. The video is awesome, If I could find the appropriate steel, I would give it a try just to freak out the neighbours, one needs a few projects like that just in case they get uppity.
  15. I seem to recall there was an earlier thread on this topic, Dan was interested? I couldn't find it. Anyway, the cover story in The Home Shop Machinist is a buildalong for a surface grinder. I haven't read it myself so I don't know much about it yet. Be warned, these articles tend to spread over several issues and they aren't cheap.
  16. The only thing that could be improved about my KMG is if it had a better stand. Currently I have it on a mobile plywood cart I built for it. It takes up a lot of space, is pottentially combustible (easily solved), is not easy to move around, or outdoors, given the confines of my shop, and is not particularly elegant. Unlike some of the Burr King grinders that seem to have vertical stands, the KMG is a more horizontal design, making a simple tube stand a difficult fit. Has anyone come up with a better option than a bench mount, whether mobile or otherwise. I am thinking of a section of pipe set on the vertical with some cement in one end, and a set of casters, and only enough steel up high to mount the motor and grinder...
  17. I bought my first stick welder a few years back I spent a little over 100 dollars. It theoretically was good for 70 amps, which out of an AC machine is not much. It was none the less a good experience. The only negative is that AC stick is no picnic to learn by yourself as your first process. It was sufficient to do a bunch of little projects like building a few forges, and some racks and security window grills. I found having a welder useful enough that I graduated to a Miller Maxstar 150 DC TIG/stick. I was able to resell the AC stick for what I paid for it, to another beginer. I kinda wish I had kept it so I could use it for stuff like a stinger on sheetmetal. The M 150 is a serious, though still limited machine. Technically 150 amps gets you about 150 mills of single pass I talk to guys who use this machine for repairs on much heavier stock. I'm learning TIG, and am getting good results. Next step may be the Dynasty 220. Being a certified guy with a welder is a great thing, but in the do it yourself market it's important to be other things also. Most of these machines are not ideal for the home shop, and a lot of pro experience is not built on the back of doing stuff with your own dollars. Even if you can wack out perfect welds, as an amateur you are your own egineer and designer. An ability to make safe use of whatever results you can generate is more important than perfect welds without a sense of how the structure works. If you have that structural comon sense you can make do with an inferior weld without worry of getting in over your head.
  18. The actual Japanese hammers (while variable) are made from cut off sledges. The Japanese are great craftsmen not always tool snobs (though they know good tools). I have some tape of a top japanese smith, and surprisingly his whole outfit is very western, he stands his anvill is a double horn type, a fairly typical smith's fire and bellows, can't recall his hammer but nothing sexy enough to warrant as second look. Ball peen hammers are a design with nose weight. Experiment with various things. Even blocks of low carbon super quenched will work.
  19. I could get by without a wheel. But I learned to do a number of things like freehand grind gouges against wheel rotation right down through the edge, without fear of a catch. And relearning on a belt would just be redundant. Wheels can be ballance and trued with great accuracy, and they don't overcut precious steel. They can also be used with hard felt to buff edges, or as buffs generally. I could live without one now that I have my KMG, but I prefer having various grinders. I don't use them for any knife making tasks except chisel grinds. I suppose it is alaso the only thing in the shop with an 8" radius, which is worth something. I would not chose to have one if it had to be a permanent part of my belt grinder, just seems to get in the way of some body positions, and you have the constant possibility of some wheel explosions. They are so cheap as stand alone units I just don't see the point.
  20. Thanks Don, I didn't mean to sound bitter in post two, but sometimes a thread turns out to be irrelevant. By the number of hits there might be interest if one oculd sort it out. I have a reasonable diagram and might try to get on with it. Does anyone know of some useful clockwork movements? I'm bracing for silence.
  21. OK pull it, apparently I can't delete it. I jsut thought with all the fire wisdom it might not be misplaced.
  22. Good points about the C forges. I have been wondering what people liked about those, while shoehorning various pieces of bent stock into my vertical!
  23. In the thread on fuels there was some mention of using corn or pellets for forging. I'm currious about building a corn or pellet auger burner. Moreso for heating, but forging might also be possible. In the fuel thread they were just burning handfuls of the stuff in an open fire. Has anyone seen anything about making one's own corn or pellet burners? I haven't had much luck with online sources. There is so much advertising it does seem to clog up finding anything for the DIY. I did find a slightly interesting story about a guy who wanted to build his own, and succeeded, then went into industrial production for factory size units. I could probably figure it out from an existing stove, Unfortunately I don't have one to look at. I'm not planing on instaling this in my home, I have a brand new ultra high efficiency gas furnace. It sounds like interesting technology for heating a shop or possibly running a camp burner. I guess I could just fashion a miny grate capable of burning a small stack of fuel, and work out how much air is needed for the updraft, then figure out at what rate the fuel needs to be added. One thing about making one's own is it might be possible to power the auger and fan with clock type mechanisms, which would allow the unit to be used off the grid. Any interesting URLs?
  24. Dan is giving you the straight dope, but the fact remains that you are building a horizontal forge, I thnk, and he is describing how you would go about taking advantage of a vertical or double ended. In your case if you put a 20 inch blade into a 20 inch tube, past a mid mounted burner, you will either not be able to move it past the burner as Dan explained, or have to open a hole in the back and even then reach in with quite a long extention. So I would either pay up for the gas the two burner may require, or build a vertical or controlable short horizontal. The problem I have with the way my vertical works is that one can't just shove a small piece inside, and then leave it on a floor, cause the floor is inches down there. I am going to try a short horizontal for my next forge, unless I just decide to shorten my vertical. I really am not sure why they are so tall. I'm working with a venturi so that is different again. Try this link to see what you can do with a single burnner at 4 psi http://home.comcast.net/%7Ejeshern/welding.htm
  25. That's a bit off topic, allowing me to counter with this guy's ultimate knife project! Talk about a test bed for blades! http://bedair.org/Projects/chipper1.html
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