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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on June 5

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    Duvall Wa

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  1. Geoff Keyes

    Out of the box for me

    The finale group was two regulation comp choppers, two kukri hybrids (big ones!) a longsword and a kopis. Of those, the longer blades seemed to have the advantage. Of course, the course will probably change, and one final is not a trend, There were no precision cuts in the first season (slicing a plastic straw from top to bottom, that sort of thing) and no stabbing targets. We shall see. Geoff
  2. Geoff Keyes

    Out of the box for me

    It's a process. In the first season, no one knew what was going on, and people showed up with everything from a chef's knife to long swords. The long blades seemed too long to me and for the most part, unsuited to the percussive cuts. The shorter blades, like the comp cutters, were too short to make single cuts in large objects, like 5 gallon bottles and buckets and, because the users couldn't stack their hands, not powerful enough for certain of the cuts. It actually was one of the comp cutters that gave me the idea for the chopping edge. Rather than take full swings at the ice block, burning arm muscle that he was going to need later, he took short, chippy cuts at the block. He might have given up a few seconds, but he saved his arm and his edge. I hope it get to compete, and I hope it does well. Once it ships, it's in someone else's hands, literally and figuratively . Geoff
  3. Geoff Keyes

    Out of the box for me

    I don't have the cardio chops, and cardio was a big part of it, I thought. There I'd be, gasping, on my knees at the second target. That is not a way to look on TV Geoff
  4. Geoff Keyes

    Out of the box for me

    I made contact with one of the competitors on the next season of FIF: Knife or Death, bomp, bomp, baaaaaaaa! I have forged up an "Unlimited Class Competition Chopper" (UCCC). It's sort of a hybrid Dha style with a short, axe-like reverse edge. I watched all of the episodes of Knife or Death (be advised, no one dies on the show, sad!), with my bladesmith eyes on. I made notes of which blades worked well and which ones didn't Here are some things I noticed. 1) Within broad limits, longer blades worked better. More reach, more edge length, more leverage. 2) Being able to go two handed as strength and cardio limits were reached was an advantage. 3) Some targets were cuts, some targets were chops. With that in mind I developed what I am calling an "Unlimited Class Competition Chopper" (UCCC) and this is my first take on the style. Dha style with a long handle. So long as there are no stabbing challenges on the course a point is just a weak spot with no utility. The full length edge is (will be, it's not quite there, which is good for my fingers) sharp, sharp enough to cut rope or flesh. The reverse edge is like an axe, a little steeper geometry, made to chop. By having two edges I hope to avoid loss of sharpness as the cutter proceeds through the course. The handle will be Ipe with threaded inserts and cap head allen screws and a wrist lanyard hole. I built this in L6, tempered back to about 56-58 Rc. It should be tough and it should hold up well. 25 inches OL BL 15 inches OL Just under 2 lbs This is headed off to the new user and (fingers X'd) show contestant, next week
  5. Geoff Keyes

    Seriously cool power hammer design

    I'd love to have a hammer that would do single strikes, though I suppose the press could do some of that. Just before he died I had a conversation with Grant Sarver about using a VFD to control a power hammer, all the way from single strikes to rpm control. We never had an opportunity to work out any details. I love the idea of the adapted steam hammer linkage. Geoff
  6. Geoff Keyes

    Eastern Fusion "Ancient" Dagger

    I like that a lot, everything seems well thought out and finely executed, including the stand. Geoff
  7. Geoff Keyes

    Time to build a power hammer WIP

    This is what I did The bottom piece is 12" round, about as tall as a bucket, the top piece is 8" round. There are welded ears with bolts, 3 each. The top piece bolts to the bottom, the bottom piece bolts to the base plate. Those have never come loose, though I check them every so often. Geoff
  8. Geoff Keyes

    Time to build a power hammer WIP

    The anvil on my shop built hammer is two pieces, stacked, It's not ideal, but it was what we could get. It has worked well since 2000. G
  9. Geoff Keyes

    Time to build a power hammer WIP

    It's not so much the weight of the frame, though more weight is good, a stiff frame is important. If the hammer is racking and torquing it is stealing energy from every strike, not to mention the damage it can do to the structure of the hammer (shearing bolts, tearing up welds). Stiffer is better, and a solid connection to the foundation is important. There was a wood framed powerhammer, I think it was the Little John, that came as a kit. You got the pieces that needed to be metal and the rest (the frame) was made from heavy timber. The general thinking is that the anvil:hammer needs to be at least 10:1. Nazel said 20:1. That means that a 50# tup needs at least 500# of anvil. And all of that needs to be bolted down. Geoff
  10. Geoff Keyes

    L6 and micarta

    I don't really know what to call this, bushcraft, packer, or what. Hand polished L6, razor sharp and super tough, canvas micarta, a couple of spacers and a blued mild steel guard. OL 13.5" BL 8.5" Mild steel guard, paper spacers and canvas micarta with a bit of texture. Thanks for looking Geoff
  11. Geoff Keyes

    Cracked Buffalo horn repair (it's bad).

    I would try the CA glue thing before I went the new handle route. After all, what's the worst thing that could happen. If it works, great. If it kinda works, then you learned something. If it doesn't work at all, or you hate it, then you're no worse off than you started, but you still learned something. Geoff
  12. Geoff Keyes

    It's been awhile...

    Nice! You could just grind a 1/4+ off and there you go g
  13. Geoff Keyes

    First knife, big mistake. Can this be fixed?

    Any place that sells welding supplies had small diameter brass rod. G
  14. Geoff Keyes

    First knife, big mistake. Can this be fixed?

    This is an easy fix, you've already thought of many of them. First, 1/4" pins are overkill for a blade like this, I'd go with 1/8". The great big pins you often see in knife handles are cutlers rivets, they have a big flat head and 1/8 " shanks. The corner pin idea is a good one, I also like to pin and peen my bolsters, so a couple of 1/8 " holes for the bolster are good. Or you could go with 2 1/8" holes along the centerline, draw a line that looks good to you and space them wherever they fit nicely. The holes you've already drilled will act as epoxy "rivets", take a round end dremel bit and relieve the tang between the holes just a bit and do the same to your slabs. Epoxy holds better if it has a little mass to it, so taking a bit of material out of the center will give it someplace to go. I don't do a lot of full tang blades, but that is just me. When I do, I generally remove material from the center of the tang by drilling big holes, or by milling a slot. It makes the weight and balance better, IMHO, and doesn't compromise the handle at all. Let us know how it turns out Geoff