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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on April 20

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    http://www.5elementsforge.com
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    Duvall Wa

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  1. One thing I would do is to get rid of the brick and replace them with a coat of Mizzou or Satanite. Not having to heat the mass of the brick should improve your efficiency quite a bit. Happy to help you get things sorted g
  2. I've looked at the Vevor site and I don't see this forge, but the burner on their smallest forge looks different. It's got a collar with holes in it that is the air intake. The one you've shown does not. I don't see an air intake anywhere on yours, without it, it can't breathe properly. Just a thought, I looked at the pics again. There is a screw in the red collar. If you undo that does it slide down, exposing some holes? If it does, that is your air intake and adjustment. Slide it down to expose the holes and try again. Geoff
  3. That would be one big Scotsman. I see what you're seeing though. g
  4. I need some direction, I found this blade tucked in a corner while cleaning. I abandoned it, probably because of a wonky clip grind, now it's back. It's wide (close to 3 inches) but pretty thin, about 16" long. It doesn't really fall into any style I can think of. It's kind of like a Khyber, but no "T" back and the tang is in the wrong place. It doesn't really suggest a Dha or Dao to me, it kind of like a single Hudie, so I suppose I could make a second. Does anything else come to mind? A Bill or a Glaive perhaps, or a Falchion? If I can't find a historical idea to shoot for, I could just go full fantasy. A Dwarf pirate's boarding sword, short spear for hunting dragon spawn? G
  5. I have a BIL who works in a heavy fab shop. They buy them by the case. What they have found is that you can buy the expensive US made ones, and the goons who work in the shop kill them in about a year, OR, you can buy the cheap asian made ones, and the shop goons kill them in about a year. Mine last longer, but I don't use them 8hrs a day, every day. Geoff
  6. Turned damascus, copper, walrus ivory, Alaska garnet, ironwood stand. I'm calling it a Reliquary, a container for holy relics. The top pulls off to reveal a small space for the relics. For sale, if anyone has an interest, PM for price. Geoff
  7. I was at the OKCA in Eugene Oregon show this last weekend, and I bought a 20lb ingot of silicon bronze. I was thinking that I could cast it into some bars to make it easier to handle. Another smith suggested that melting and recasting might alter the alloy, but that it could be hammer forged. Any thoughts on how to proceed? I can saw it up, and I could make a cutter to use on the press. Could I cold forge it? Without knowing the alloy, where should I start in temperature to hot forge it? I have avoided getting into casting because I really don't need ANOTHER rabbit hole to fall into. Geoff
  8. I got two more finished, plus a piece of jewelry. I should have pics of that tomorrow, but here are the last two blades for OKCA,
  9. The OKCA show is coming up in Eugene Or. in just about 8 days. I've got a couple of new ones for the table. A 10" chef forged 1080, integral with black liners, jade micarta spacer and a stabilized Black Locust burl handle. And a slicer/petty (5160) with brass, black liners, red micarta and stabilized Mulberry burl. Thanks for looking G
  10. Try a modern nail for comparison. There are some interesting striations there. Although not completely on point, there is some interesting info here. While again, not on point, I got to visit the museum of the ship Arabia in KC. It was a paddle steamer that went down on the Missouri in 1853. They have pulled over 200 tons of artifacts from the wreck. Interesting to me (among many things) was the almost complete lack of blacksmithing tools. There were hundreds of feet of chain and rope, barrels and crates full of buttons, needles, NAILS, hafted tool heads, cloth, clothing, shoes, hats, dishware, and all manner of made goods. There also was a saw mill. My take away from this is that even in 1853, it was cheaper to ship East Coast ready made goods to places like Montana, than it was for locals to try and make this stuff themselves. I was not able to find anything in a quick search on West Coast steel making, but I wonder if nails weren't just shipped in from the East. By 1870 rail lines were set up all the way to the Pacific. Geoff
  11. Probably not, but it's worth bending a couple and seeing how they look. My Grandfather worked for a steel company in Ohio and they had a machine that made square cut nails. It had a 1860 patent date on it and the company kept a smith on staff to keep the old iron running. They made cut nails on it until the mid 1980's when the plant closed. I'm betting that they are mild steel. Maybe you could find a way to repurpose in the table build. Geoff
  12. I'm betting that the crudded up jet is the issue. As I said, you don't need it. You have to have water, no question. Geoff
  13. For a fan driven system you don't need a jet, volume not pressure is the most important thing. It may be that you ended up with some sort of hybrid, semi venturi effect. If it's not too much trouble, I would pull the jet and see if that doesn't fix the issue. My setup is just the line from the manifold (I run 3 different forges off a single manifold) to a needle valve, to the forge. I open the valve from the manifold, turn the fan on, hold a torch in front of the door, and crack the needle valve. When I shut down I close the valve to the manifold, let the fire go out, close the needle valve and shut down the fan. G
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