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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on February 1

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  1. I actually had a long PM conversation with him. He didn't say so, but I suspect he was intimated by the loud voices here. I think I was able to point him toward some blacksmith groups in his area. g
  2. https://www.antique-swords.com/british-infantry.html
  3. Cool castings, where did you get them? With the pommel I would make the tang long enough to fit the cap over it and the end of the handle. Once you have the fit you want, drill a hole through the side of the pommel and pin through the end of the handle and the tang. Then seat the whole thing in epoxy and drive the pin through it. I would not try to capture it through the end, that will just mess up the casting. I would wet the skin and stitch it into place and let it dry. You might do some research into leather glues. The ray skin that is put on japanese blades was secured with what was probably a hide glue, or a rice paste glue. I would use a thin layer of something like Titebond, rather than white glue. I want to see pics when you are done. Geoff
  4. As for the discussion about "traditional" vs something else, we've had that talk in your previous post. The simple answer is yes, and no. Some questions and things to think about. Have you ever forged anything? Have you ever forge welded steel? Have you ever made a sword length piece? Have you ever made a katana? What kinds of tools do you have access to? You can't fold a billet of this type, if you do your core goes away. Forge welding makes scale. Even the best of us can expect to lose 25% or better to scale. What that means in practical terms is that for a 3lb finished piece, you need AT A MINIMUM about 4lbs of steel to start. Given the realities of the process, you probably should expect 50% losses. If your idea is that you would just start with a billet that is sort of sword shaped and weld that all up and then finish making the sword, I'm pretty sure that won't work. That's not the way it would have "traditionally" been done, and for good reason. The chances of getting a 3 foot long taco of steel to weld up are pretty much zero. There are any number of videos on Youtube on this, have you looked at them? Geoff
  5. I'm working on a BIG belduque. I forged it with a big long integral bolster. I've had three or four handles fitted up and they all looked weird. For a couple of months I've been looking at it and fiddling handles, but in the end I was trying to avoid what, down deep, I knew it needed. Today I put on my big girl panties and ground off about half of the bolster. As everyone here knows, it's much easier to grind metal off then to put it back on. I am so relieved! The shorter bolster looks much better. I got three of five pieces of handle (it's complicated) fitted, just the but cap and cap nut to go. I'll try to get some pics, but I'm so glad not have screwed everything up. It's good not to rush, sometimes. Geoff
  6. Or check out some Mike Bell's welded cable katana's https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=mike+bell+dragonfly+forge&docid=608023379825135126&mid=A21E25E935389E613BC4A21E25E935389E613BC4&view=detail&FORM=VIRE https://dragonflyforge.com/ Geoff
  7. If toughness and sharpness are the qualities you are looking for, 80crv2 or L6 would be the steels I would choose. If a hammon is on the list, W2 might be a the best choice. The idea of polishing a sword of L6 makes my hands ache. Geoff
  8. First of all, there is no "original Japanese fashion". Some makers used a 2 piece construction (hot dog bun or san mai), some used a 5 piece construction, many swords were single billet. It's a matter of style, time and place, and available materials, and probably other things as well. These folks make a sword entirely out of 9260 https://samuraiswords.store/9260-spring-steel/ Most (many, some, a few, pick your poison) Japanese swords were made with the edge steels being something like 1060. They were not looking for ultimate hardness in the edge, just a steel that was heat treated to be hard enough without being too brittle. You can get 5160 (which is a close relative to 9260) to weld to 1095, but it would not be my first choice. The heat treat will be persnickety. If you must, I would go with a 1060/1075 edge steel with a 1045 (or even 1018) core. I'm guessing that you don't have all that much experience with forging and forge welding. If I'm wrong, I ask your forbearance in advance. Welding up a billet like this, big enough to do what you want, is not a simple chore. Perhaps a couple of smaller projects to start might be a goods idea. OTOH, I won't tell you not to jump right in. Everyone brings their own skills to the table. Good Luck Geoff
  9. I doubt you'd do this more that once a generation. How do you suppose they remember the process?
  10. Here is the finished piece. I resized the skull crusher (actually made about three more) and went with a round pommel. All of the furniture is mild steel, acid etched, stone tumbled, and blued. I think it has the look I was after, like someone had seen a Kbar, but not really looked at it. Geoff
  11. If you are thinking about a generator, think about one that will produce 3 phase. This is something I only realized this year, but 3 phase out is something you can get, some surplus military generators run 110, 220 1 phase AND 220 and 440 3 phase outputs. When I designed my press I was talking to another maker about his press. He had 2, 5hp motors running 2 5 gpm pumps in parallel. While we were talking about that he mentioned that he wished he'd have gone to a phase converter rather than change tools from 3ph to 1ph. This got me thinking, and I discovered that the cost of a phase converter was about the same as the 2 motor, 2 pump system he had built. In the end I went with a converter powering a 15 hp 3ph motor driving 12 gpm. It's brute force, 30 tons, and it travels about 3 inches a second on a single stage pump (full speed through the stroke). One of that advantages is that I can buy 3ph equipment (lathes, surface grinders, mills and such) and I have plenty of power to run them all. I think today, since I have 220 v 1ph in my shop, I would go with a VFD rather than phase converter, particularly for the sub 5 hp applications. Geoff
  12. What are the finished weight and dimensions, please? Very nice work. Geoff
  13. This may be useful https://www.surpluscenter.com/Tech-Help/Hydraulics/Calculators/Cylinder-Force-Speed/
  14. Speed would be an issue with what I was seeing, but that might just be ram size and pump speed in the video. When I built my press I wanted speed and a large throat I don't know enough about mechanical advantage designs to comment, but I have never seen one used as a forging press. I know that knuckle presses are used in short throw/ high tonnage applications like coining presses, but again, that is the limit of my knowledge. I'll be interested to see where you take this, Geoff
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