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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on July 8

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    http://www.5elementsforge.com
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    Duvall Wa

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  1. I've been doing a bunch of Damascus and the forge is getting pretty raggedy. The last time I used Mizzou as the inner surface, over Kaowool. Is there a better material? G
  2. Sinister Plainness, I love that. Boot knife is what she asked for G
  3. I made this as a trade for some silver pieces for another knife, which is on the back burner for now. 1080 acid washed and stone tumbled, about 4 inches flat back grind, like a yari Black dyed walnut (also flat backed) and a blackened steel spacer The new owner wants as plain as possible, it was a real effort not to do some sort of embellishment. I hope she likes it.
  4. I find peening to be more trouble than it's worth. It's hard to get a really tight fit, and there is always the danger of splitting the handle. On a lot of my work, small pieces like this one especially, I rely on the epoxy to hold everything. Modern epoxies, particularly the 24 hour stuff is stronger than the handle material in nearly every case. This may sound stupid, but you don't need to thread all of the tang. If you worked carefully you could probably cut threads on what you have exposed. The only part that would have threads would be the 2 narrow edges, but considering how lit
  5. What are you using for tools? Practice is what helps. If you practice on wood, you'll be good at doing it......in wood This guy built a grinding jig with a angle grinder Draw filing, or a mix of draw and cross filing works to even things out This is a project that I was concerned about screwing up the bevels on. I did the heavy grinding on the 2x72, but all of the refinement was done with files It's not fast, but how much of a hurry are you in? My first teacher always said, make 50 of something, th
  6. I found this old thread, and RG talked about just that
  7. 2 man buck saw, or a crosscut saw. I found one in the basement when we moved in 15 years ago. Good steel for scrapers and such. We are in logging country and old tools like this are still pretty common, the woods around our house are full of cedar stumps with springboard cuts in them. This is the Serb I made, pretty silly, but the owner loves it G
  8. I have a project that surfaced in the disaster that is my bench. Part of it is a hemp cord wrap on a handle and scabbard. I'd like to soak the cord in something to reinforce it. I'm looking for recommendations, glue, varnish, some other thing? Thanks g
  9. Every so often you just have to make something for your self. This one came out of a "Serbian" cleaver project. The cleaver went off to it's new owner (and he's happy with it. I hated it.) I had no luck HT'ing this stuff, it just turned into a potato chip, so I left them as found (pretty hard) and cut them with an angle grinder and ground them carefully. I'm waiting on some parts, so I decided to finish up some quick stuff. Steel "?" 1095 at a guess Handle: Stabilized black locust burl Very light very sharp. G
  10. I run mine at about 1-2 psi, about 80% of the air choked off, and the needle valve open about 50%. That gives me plenty of "head room" on the burner. I can open up the air and add more gas, or I can choke the air back even farther and dial the gas back to a whisper. Forging in bright light is a problem, it takes away a lot of information you need. Many of us keep a bucket or something to use as a sun shade handy, if we need to do that. g
  11. First of all, the word is tongs, your spell checker may have misfired. Second, there is a lot of info here about shop built anvils. A piece of leaf spring won't do the job very well. Third, you don't need to do a wrapped and welded eye for an axe (unless you want to) You could start with a small sledge or ball pien hammer and forge a nice little axe out of that. You won't need to weld a bit into it since most tools like that are hardenable steel (1050 or 4140, often). If by charcoal you mean real, made from wood, lump charcoal, that works pretty well, though you will burn thr
  12. The answer is, it depends. Have a close look at blades you have, and see what those makers did. Kitchen knives (good ones, at least) have a near zero bevel. The grind is flat from wherever they start the bevel (near the spine) right to the edge. Those big chunky American made folders (you know who I mean) use a semi hollow saber grind and a big secondary bevel. A convex or apple seed edge puts a little bit of meat behind the edge for strength. It all depends on the expected use. The thing that I have discovered is that you can often get by with much less steel than you think. This is s
  13. Try running at dusk or after dark. That will give you a clearer picture of your temps and a notion of where your burner settings should be. G
  14. I use a carbide faced filing jig to set the plunges. The carbide ones are a bit more expensive, but the grinder belts won't touch them. I still end up having to go in and dress the plunges with a file, but the guide is invaluable. g
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