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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on January 27

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    Duvall Wa

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  1. I have seen people making rings out of coins buy drilling or punching a hole in the middle and then inverting in a die. It works because silver alloys stretch pretty well. Has anyone ever tried it with a slab of damascus? I expect that it would have to be done hot, but since the pattern is innate to the material, you don't have to worry too much about screwing up the surface detail. I'm hoping that someone has tried it and can give us some tips, so I don't have to make the whole thing up myself. g
  2. Thanks, that's a big help. I'll go that route if KMG doesn't come through for me. Yeah, silver toggle. There is plenty of space in the NEMA box, so the size of the switch body, within reason, is not a problem. Geoff
  3. I feel sort of dumb, but the ON/OFF switch on my KMG VFD has failed. I assumed that it would be a simple thing to replace. 20A 250 VAC DPST 4 connector toggle. I can't find this beastie anywhere. Can anyone help me? Thanks Geoff
  4. Yep, I like that much better. Small things but big overall change. Geoff
  5. I don't like the stepped transition from the spine to the spacer. If the blade is much wider that sort of idea works pretty well, but not so much (for me) on a blade this size. Perhaps if you did a swept transition on the top as well as on the edge side. Otherwise, I like it. It might benefit from a butt cap with fiber spacers. Geoff
  6. This the blade with the found pattern. It's really hard to get a picture of it. I think this is part of an experimental billet from several years ago. The steels were 80crv2 and something else with a similar makeup. It's got 2 hours of etch at this point, and there is hardly any depth to it. It's more hada than damascus, Itame or O-Mokume. It does make me wish that I had done a differential HT, but it's way too thin at this point to retry. I've got the handle components pretty well squared away, so it should be done early next week. Geoff
  7. That is exactly what it is. The odd thing is, a couple of months ago I gave it a dip and didn't see anything after 10 seconds or so, so I put it back in the to-do but no hurry pile. Now that it's clean at 220, ooh look, pattern!. I've ditched the Scagle idea for something different, and I came up with a good butt cap idea, so I should have something to show soon. I also found a stick of 3/4 x 3/4 by 2' of damascus in the dust under the grinder, might do some twist billet soon. G
  8. I delivered a kitchen set that had been taking my time, and I picked a couple of pieces to finish up next. One is a hatchet tip clip point. I had gotten the handle about 80% (I decided to do a Scagle style stacked leather and crown antler) and I was looking at the blade. There were some surface lines and I could not figure out why I had moved it to the finish bench with those still in place. They would not come out by hand sanding, so I went back to the grinder. I was thinking that I would give it a try, and if they didn't come out, I'd pitch it and work on something else. Stubbornness is a bladesmith trait I think, I kept at it and finally got them out, and went back to sanding. Then I catch the light just right. There's pattern in the steel. The lines were the last of the weld lines. Now the blade is smaller (I had to take some off the edge) and pretty thin, but clean. Now I don't know if the Scagle look is right. I've ditched the simple guard I was going to use, but maybe the rest will work. Just another day in the shop. Geoff
  9. 5 inches of 1" round bar weighs about 1 lb. 5 inches of 2 inch round bar weighs 4.4 lbs. There are a bunch of online calculators for steel weight. I used this one. For hammers you really want something that can be hardened, 4140 is a common a choice. Drifts don't need to be hard, since they get hot enough to lose whatever temper you give them, but 4140 is a nice tough steel. Punches as well can be 4140, I end up dressing mine fairly frequently because, as I said, they get hot and bend and mushroom out. Geoff
  10. Ebony, or maybe blackwood. Black wood, anyway. g
  11. And they are stabilized to boot. 4 coats of tung oil rubbed with 0000 steel wool and buffed with carnauba/bees wax mix. g
  12. Things keep getting between me and the shop, but I finally got some things done. These need edges and a final once over, and then they are out the door. The steel is 1080, the handles are black locust burl. Even though these blocks are all from the same chunk of tree, there is a ton of variation in them. The petty is pin burl, the slicer is very flamed, the chef and the cleaver are twisty. Thanks for looking Geoff
  13. David Boye had cast dendritic steel blades made 30 odd years ago. They did take a fair bit of cleanup a I recall. Geoff
  14. I don't hunt, I'm not all that interested and my knees are about 25 years older than I am, but.... Around here, except for areas where the undergrowth has been groomed out, 50 yards is a long shot. There was a local tribal member who took his deer every year for a long time with a 22 pistol. He would figure out where they were bedded down, sneak into the spot and use a head shot at about 6 feet. I gather the game wardens frown on such things these days.
  15. You might have a look at this thread and see how that lines up with what you have. g
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