Jump to content

Geoff Keyes

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Geoff Keyes last won the day on January 19

Geoff Keyes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

500 Excellent

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Duvall Wa

Recent Profile Visitors

7,236 profile views
  1. I have an order for an Heirloom project, so I'm doing a bit of R&D that I wanted to share. I'm tooling up to make a mosaic damascus dagger. I haven't made any damascus of any kind in a year or so, so I'm a little rusty. I had a billet that I had intended to tile, I took that and added some 15n20 and 1084 filler pieces. This was the first weld. I then brought that down to 1/2" square by 45 inches long. Then I cut it into 9 pieces and stacked those and rewelded and brought that down to 1.25" x 6 I'm thinking that I
  2. BillyO, the clients husband saw a video of a Serbian farmer using a thing like this as a food prep tool. That one clearly had been cut from a saw. That's what he wanted, so that's what I made. I can't find the video, but I'm sure if you scout around, it's there. What do Zombies need a knife for? Geoff
  3. I have said publicly that I hate these things, and it's true, I hates 'em. But I'm also happy to make someone else happy (and make a couple of bucks) so here it is. The good camera needs a charge and the phone is at best adequate, but here you go. Cut from a crosscut saw 0.10 Steel (1095 at a guess) Stabilized maple burl handle 10 inch edge This is actually the second one, I tried to heat treat the first one (I got careless grinding and had a soft spot on the edge) and it turned into a potato chip. Everything I did made the problem worse. I just gave up and started o
  4. I'm not saying that this is what we should do, but I'm in love with this stuff
  5. I do the 1 cubic inch thing as a demo. It's a lot of fun. Geoff
  6. What is your preferred material? What is a good HT? Does it help to HT the flint? I made some, but I'm not happy with the results. Some are 1080, some are mystery steel that I have been assuming is 1095 (old hex stock plumbing tools). I let them cook in a hot fire (1800F+) and water quenched. Tempered in a pot of boiling water, just to prevent fractures. Some spark ok, the 1080 don't seem to spark at all. What am I doing wrong? Geoff
  7. Look at how thick and wide the blade is at that point. I don't think that if you hammered into a stump and stood on that it would break it. Second, I have made a 6 inch blade with a .250x .250 stick tang with sharp corners where it meets the ricasso. I tested it by bolting into a 3 foot long handle and taking 2 handed swings at the end grain of a log. I have unable to break it. That is partly a good HT, or maybe even mostly a good HT. I managed to bend one and break one, but I broke where the bolt pinched it, not a the shoulder. I have never seen a knife break at that spot. I'm sure t
  8. You can build a 2x4 frame and top it with plywood (or more 2x4's) and that will serve you better than an old table. If you have a free wall, you only need the 2 front legs, the wall side can be attached directly to the wall. If you don't have the tools, well, that's an excuse to buy some. A skill saw and a drill/driver are pretty much all you need. Geoff
  9. My suspicion is that knife and hawk throwing are a modern thing. Why would you throw a valuable and possibly irreplaceable tool, when a rock or a stick is much easier? Every culture in the world uses a throwing stick for hunting small game, and you can take down a giraffe with a bolo. Even a mild steel ax will cut wood, for a while. There are vids online of people cutting down trees with hafted stone axes, and copper and bronze ones My point is, if you want a throwing hawk, it doesn't need to be the same as the nice bag ax you might carry for a primitive kit. Geoff
  10. For throwers I leave them as forged. In fact, when I make throwing knives I make them out of mild steel (I think the last batch was T1, because it was available). If they get bent, you can beat them back straight with a log. Not chipping (and potentially hurting someone) seems much more important to me. I built a #50 mechanical power hammer in 2000. We used flat springs bent into a "U". We did the bending cold with a big press. When it came time to attach the tup, we heated and rolled the ends of the longest springs around the wrist pins. Since we didn't have a good way to heat tre
  11. Is that all carved from a single piece of wood? Very nice. Tuned like a Mandolin/Violin? Geoff
  12. Rather than scrap it, fill the existing holes and drill new ones. You could plug weld them, wrap the blade in a wet cloth and weld them up. Or you could hammer a copper plug into the holes and drill that out. You sometimes see a "repair" like that in Japanese swords. You can also drill a smaller hole through the handle material, using the bigger holes as is. Then fill the big holes with epoxy. With a little bit of fussing you could fill the holes with JB weld and grind it flush once it sets. The fact is, the pins give a bit of shear resistance should the knife get dropped, but most
  13. Hard to go wrong with Kevin as a teacher. Thanks Alan, you make me blush G
  14. That's a bit coarse, not too bad, but it could be better. Are you normalizing after forging (always) and after grinding (good practice)? You say you are using 5160. Actual, bought 5160 or leaf spring. Salvaged spring is prone to stress cracks that might have nothing to do with you or your process. That bright line on the left side is worrisome and the dark edges in the peak talks to me of an old crack.. Geoff
  • Create New...