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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on June 29

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    Duvall Wa

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  1. What are the visual cues that make you think belduque? I've got a blade in the works that I would like to take that direction. Some I've seen have a swedged top edge, spanish notches are common. Pointy with a bit of swoop to the tip. Integral bolsters, often with file work. What have I missed?
  2. I met him at shows several times. He was a fine man and a fine maker. It is a loss for all of us. Geoff
  3. I would hate to step on another makers toes, have you tried contacting him and asking for what you need? Having said that Canoe Damascus: Damascus in this case is pattern welded steel. He put the pieces in a steel box with one long side open, and once he had the steel arraigned the way he wanted it, he welded the final side on and welded the whole thing in a press or powerhammer, creating a solid piece of steel from the pieces. 1080 15n20 Harley Davidson chain and band saw blade: These are the steels he used to make the billet Guard-nickel silver: Nickel silver, sometimes called german silver, is an alloy of copper and nickel. It's often used for guards and other furniture Handle-Iron wood with mosaic pins: Ironwood is one of several different woods that go by that name. All of them are dense and dark and often quite pretty with lots of active grain. Mosaic pins are tubes with small pins in epoxy inside, so that the end of the pin have a little pattern that shows. Some people make their own pins, others buy them. Without seeing the piece, that is what I can tell you. It sounds very nice. BTW, to post a pic, when you have the reply box open, at the bottom of the box is a light blue (for me, it might be different for you) bar that says "Drag files to attach here". Drag and drop your pic here Geoff
  4. I will have a look at at that later, but thank you. It does look like a hand stamp, it was double struck. I agree, I have lots of ball pien hammers to make into things, but this one is just so cool. I'm going to make a handle for it (osage?) and put it on my bench with the rest of the vintage stuff. I have a nice collection of pliers and nippers and things, all from the 30's and 40's with textured handles. I do love old iron, A thing like that hammer is kind of like shaking hands across the years, if you know what I mean. g
  5. The handled tools seem to have many uses. I think, in the day, you could order what you wanted for the tools themselves. This one is different because the hammer head is the nut that holds the rest of the tools This one has a huge (for the tool) nail puller and a couple of strange two flute tools. This one may be a marriage of several sets. This one is very cool I'm always on the lookout for these, so if you find one for say less than $25 (and $25 is all of the money), I would take it off your hands. Lets talk. Geoff
  6. A file guide has several uses. One is for creating the shoulders where the guard is going to seat. Second is to help locate the plunge cuts. With the carbide faces you can do both things on your belt grinder or with an angle grinder. Those are how I use mine, there may be other uses that I'm not aware of. Geoff
  7. Here is how I looked at it, because I thought about building my own as well. If you got carbide 3/16 x 1/2 x 3 from MSC that's about $40 for one. Buy the time you get done making the body flat and true and square, I think you're well beyond what Mr. Behnke charges, and we know his work. The one you've listed should work for a long time, so long as you're careful about how you treat it. It's just that the carbide one work way better and for a lot longer. BTW, Bill textures the top of his, where the carbides sit, which gives a place for the epoxy to live. If you buy the hardened one, you won't be able to do that. Good luck g
  8. I know. The octagonal shanks and the little relief cuts are quite elegant g
  9. First is my hoar.....I mean COLLECTION of multitools. I got 2 new ones yesterday. All but one of these have at least some of the bits with them. One is empty . The other is a hammer head I found in my basement. It's pretty small, but heavy. It says "C R Farley" on it. I have not been able to find that maker on the net, which is odd, since if it's marked, there usually is some record of the maker. It's got some nice detail on it, all it needs is a handle to become part of my vintage bench tool kit. Geoff
  10. The carbide guides let you use power tools, among other things. Even a ceramic belt won't touch them. Just don't drop them, that's how I broke mine. I just bought 2 new ones from Bill Behnke. I found that even hardened steel guides will start to wear unevenly even if you use safed files. I love my carbide guides, Geoff
  11. This is not really a collector site. Mostly we are makers of knives. You probably won't get much response to this Geoff
  12. Ask them what you should bring. I tell folks that there are no adult beverages in the shop, it being a dangerous place. I provide all of the materials and tools, but hard shoes, cotton clothes, ear plugs and safety glasses ought to be in your kit. Have a great time. learn stuff and tell us what you learned. Geoff
  13. I used these guys for a phase converter. Good price, good tech support, free delivery. The unit has worked without a hitch for 10 years. I don't know anything about this motor in specific,, but the company treated me fine. Geoff
  14. I ran across this on another site. Interesting stuff https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/07/08/frank-j-richtig/?fbclid=IwAR2ZVgQE25pEOmGpBcMyoK6AEcUlKXJHiFKwZrVFnrQVSaAMXuRUJi7ECnE G
  15. You might try this. Take one of them and build a stand for it. It doesn't need to be much, a length of wood to get it to the right height and a couple more to hold it in place. Try forging on that and see what you think. If you like it then you can build a better stand and save yourself the cost and time of welding up a pair of them. Most bladesmithing throughout history was done on anvils about the size of the end of one of those tines. You don't need much real estate to forge on. Most of the face of a large anvil goes unused throughout it's life. It's why you see anvils with a bad saddle back. Most smiths only use a palm sized space right over the sweet spot. The end of one of those tines is all sweet spot. As for heat treating. Do you know what the steel is? Can it be HT'ed at all? Even if it can be, heating that much steel and then quenching and tempering it are not trivial tasks, and it can be dangerous. A smithing pair in AK tried to HT a 40 block for a powerhammer die. They misjudged how much oil they were going to need. When they quenched the block it vaporized the oil and sent a fireball into the roof of the shop. They only just barely got out alive. They lost everything in the shop, including their dogs. When Fisher quenched anvils they used something like a 100000 gallon waterfall to do it. Good luck Geoff
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