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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on January 10

Geoff Keyes had the most liked content!

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    http://www.5elementsforge.com
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    Duvall Wa

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  1. Cutlers anvil

    This is one of two anvils that Grant built Geoff
  2. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    Just out of curiosity, what do you think it would cost to have dovetails milled into a block of 4140. There is such a block, though it's usually out of stock, for $1000 https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/trunion-swage-block.html Geoff
  3. I'm impressed with care and thought you've put into this so far. I'm also impressed as all heck about the strength of the hide glue. Who would have thought? Can't wait to see more. Geoff
  4. Cutlers anvil

    I think that they were used for all sorts of specialty work and that much of the knowledge has been lost. I also think that you should send me all of these so that I can do an extensive research project about them, or just hoard them up and stand over them rubbing my scaly paws together and making grunting noises deep in my chest, the way you do. Geoff
  5. Antler handle hidden tang -- how?

    If you're going to drill all the way through, you can just put a piece of tape over one end, or build a cork for the end. A little dab of Vaseline on the end of the cork keeps it from being a permanent part of the handle. I don't like JB weld because anywhere it shows, it's really obvious. I use West Systems GFlex and like Accraglas, it takes dynamite to get a handle off. Geoff
  6. Antler handle hidden tang -- how?

    The pith, as others have said, is porous and weak. However, you can use this to your advantage. Soak the pith with superglue, a little at a time (it gets quite hot as it fires off and heat is an enemy of antler). Once the pith is pretty well bonded together, drill an oversized hole and bed the tang as Jerrod suggested. If you are going to thread the tang, which is my favorite construction, you don't need to have the threaded part exactly round, it can be pretty crude and still thread just fine. If you hit a thick spot, rather than force the die and break something, back off and file the spot down a bit. Once you can get a nut on, over a washer then you can attach the butt cap any way you like. I often turn a nut with a shank that goes through the cap, like this one. Geoff
  7. Anvil alternatives /Grinders

    Somebody ought to snap that up, 22.4 lbs. The chunk of A2 would work too. Geoff
  8. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    Amazing what a little practice can do for you. Only 2 gross a day, 6 days a week for 40 years and you too can turn out a blade in one heat. Geoff
  9. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    If anvils are hard to find, and sawyers anvils a great rarity, then a true cutlers anvil is like dragons teeth. Here is a picture of a cutlers anvil, there were lots of designs for different processes. This is a video of the last of the Sheffield knifemakers, you can see his anvil at about 3:50. geoff
  10. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    You just need something to hold the tool shank. I have seen a holder made from bricks of steel laid to leave a hole in the middle and welded together. If you have access to a press, or the time to do it with a hammer and punch, you could just punch a hole in a big block. Or drill an oversized hole in a big chunk and weld a piece of square tube in the hole. Weld that to a piece of heavy tube and there you go. You just need enough mass that you blows don't deform the holder. Geoff
  11. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    My intent was not for this to be the primary anvil, the solid post would fill that role. This is to give you the rest of the functionality of a london pattern, with some flexibility built in. Geoff
  12. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    Yes sir, that's the ticket. g
  13. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    2 pieces of angle iron with 2 "ears" bent down to take the horizontal orientation. G
  14. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    Jerrod, that is pretty much exactly what I had in mind! It's small enough that one person could manipulate it (which is a problem with my big swedge block, it's a two man and a small boy lift). In my mind the end opposite the horn would be a large sinking depression, since the other piece (the 12 to 18 inch block) would be the main forging surface. Seeing this in 3d makes me drool, I want one! Geoff
  15. Manufacturer mark on a PV

    Anyone know this mark. It's on a post vise
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