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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on May 19

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    Duvall Wa

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  1. I'm sure that Alan will comment, but I found a piece built much like this in a junk store in Western Washington. Two cheek pieces, a bit, and a steeled poll. Alan said that they stopped making them in this manner by about 1820. This site also has some pics that shows construction pretty well https://www.furtradetomahawks.com/belt-axes---13.html Geoff
  2. It looks to be in nice shape. Hopefully Alan will weigh in, he has "The Book". "Older blacksmiths' anvils are often stamped with a three-digit number indicating their total weight in hundredweight, quarter-hundredweight (28 lb, abbreviated qr), and pounds. Thus, an anvil stamped "1.1.8" will weigh 148 lb (112 lb + 28 lb + 8 lb)" which should mean that yours is 158lbs +/- For an anvil that is nearly 200 years old, she's nearly perfect. She's got a lot of life left in her. Geoff
  3. I built a 50# power hammer in 2000. We cold bent the springs to shape (300 ton press) and then took a heat on the longest springs ends and wrapped them around the wrist pins for the toggle. We left them as forged, no heat treat at all. The hammer has 100's of hours on it (if not more) and the spring ends have not moved at all I think you'd be fine, but that is just my .02 Geoff
  4. Color is not your best gauge of temperature. The color changes depending on ambient light conditions. In bright daylight a near molten piece of steel looks grey. If you have to go by color, do your heat treating in a dark shop, cherry red is what the books say, but again, depending on the light, you could be 400 degrees too hot. Testing with a magnet is better, you'll still be a little high, but not so much. Better yet would be a pyrometer. You can get a cheap digital online for around $50. Geoff
  5. This showed up on a FB group and no one seems to know the maker. This is a very sophisticated piece to not have a mark on it.
  6. I hope you don't mind but I've copied all of your pics to add to my collection of shop built anvils. I don't remember an earlier post, if you have pics of what you started with, I'll add those to the collection. Nice build, how is it working for you? Geoff
  7. There are 2 pinned topics that you should read through. Yes, I wrote them, but you should still read them. Many question are answered within. Geoff
  8. In short, no. The steel you can buy at your local big box store does not have enough carbon ( by modern standards) to hold a good edge, and heat treating it won't get you much of anything. If you are reluctant to buy steel, salvaged coil or leaf springs are your best bet. Oil quench (water will crack 5160, which is what most spring steel probably is) and temper at 375 - 400 degrees. You will also have better luck with hardwood charcoal, briquettes are compressed saw dust and a binder. The cost of heating with them is not really worth it. Good start though, welcome to the madness. Geoff
  9. From this piece . This is a Naginata Naoshi, or perhaps a Nagamaki (I'm still deciding, I might end up with 2 sets of mounts for it). I'm taking it off the bench for a while. It's a very shouty piece, and if it's on the bench I'm not able to work on anything else. So for the short term, this one is in time out. I have it in a foundation polish and shirasaya (of sorts). There is a ton of work left to do. The polish is many hours, plus furniture. I'm going to work on some smaller pieces that I can actually finish this year. This is for sale, either as is, or at a negotiated level of finish. Geoff
  10. I'll have a chat with Tom, I should have thought of that. The tang is unhardened steel, but it's still pretty tough, being 1060. G
  11. Same piece (I'll have some pics in a bit). It's a big, nasty, Naginata Naoshi, at least that's how I'm seeing the mounts right now. It may end up as Nagimaki, or perhaps I'll mount it both ways. In any case, it's clay quenched 1060 and even at 320 grit the hamon is nice. From here I was going to go 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 SC paper. What should I do after that? Cross polish with the 2000? I don't have any stones except an Arkansas hard stone, and no real experience with stones anyway. Acid wipe down hybrid? I need some help folks. Geoff
  12. I've got a piece that deserves a hand cut sig and I've never done one. What sort of tooling do I need? Geoff
  13. I am a FiF alum, and I would like to put in a word or two. 1) The judges are not looking for flaws to exploit, but they are going to test them and test them hard. An obvious problem that might get a person (like the tester) hurt is a good reason to fail a blade. In fact Jay Neilson has been hurt several times and is wearing body armor in the most recent seasons. 2) If they can't test 2 blades in the same manner, if for instance they have to make allowances for a blade that has bent or broken, then the tests aren't fair. I remember the claymore and I had a chance to look at the losing blade (that one was still on set when I shot my episode). The handle was a problem, too fat, too round. Doug hit flat because of a poor design choice. The winning blade performed much better, that is why it won. The historical blades we have to examine are the equivalent of an NFL highlight reel. You're not seeing the blades that broke, or bent The tests are brutal, way more brutal than you would put a blade through in any reasonable test. To some extent you have to build to the tests. A beautiful blade that snaps off in the first strike is useless. Geoff
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