Jump to content

Geoff Keyes

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    4,635
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    33

Geoff Keyes last won the day on May 19

Geoff Keyes had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

435 Excellent

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.5elementsforge.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duvall Wa

Recent Profile Visitors

5,777 profile views
  1. This is one of the hard aspects of what we do. You have to feel good about your skill, as it is right now. First, that is WAAAAAYYYYY better than my first 50 knives, so congrats. Second, where are you getting $120 in materials? The steel is a few $, the scales are whatever you paid for them, but even counting fuel and belts I'd guess $50-$70. What is your time really worth? Are you a guy who makes a few knives as a hobby, or are you a bladesmith? If this is hobby, don't charge for them, or charge what materials cost you and figure your time is your own. Some of the best art and craft in the world is done by "amateurs", they have the time to spend. If you are trying to be a pro maker, then you step right up and ask for a price that you feel is fair. For an early work, that is pretty good. If you'd like some tips on how to make it better, this is the right place. Geoff
  2. Interesting pieces. The photos are hard to see details in. Do you have better pics? I would have these checked out by a professional. Geoff
  3. I've never seen one with a wooden pommel, but I'm far from an expert. The shape seems right to me, so that might be a Navy variant? I would do as little as you can. I would not sharpen it if it's meant for display. You might go over it lightly with soapy water and a soft tooth brush. Then a light application of Neatsfoot oil to the leather. Cool piece and a great history. This is just my .02 Geoff
  4. Thanks. The ivory is the inner parts from a tusk that is pretty busted up. Some of it can't be worked at all, it's like chalk, but mostly it's like working bone, slow speeds and sharp belts are best. It's like silk in the hand. Geoff
  5. This has been hanging around, waiting for the right handle to come along Damascus OL 9 1/4" BL 5" Mastodon and black fiber liners Pretty simple G
  6. This is one that I did a few years ago. It was a big chunk of stabilized Sheoak. I've never seen a piece of Sheoak with rays and I just had to buy it
  7. Raw oak is full of tannins, so if the tool holder was not really dry, that might account for rusting. I don't use oak for handles because, mostly, it's not very interesting. Straight grain and not much figure. I have seen curly oak and tiger stripe, and those would be nice in small bits. Stabilized or well sealed it should not be a problem for handles. Geoff
  8. Of course they do, but 5 minutes time would have created a much better piece, in my opinion, without a large increase in the cost. We all make choices, and we all have budgets. I don't like this one, but that is just me and my eye. Geoff
  9. I'm still a little hesitant, but I'll give it a go. Things I like first. I like the overall shape, it's a good, bowie like profile. Fit on the handle and fittings are clean, the little silver spacers are a very nice touch. Things I have some issues with The guard could use some work, it's just a chunk of brass. A bit of taper to the ends would be more elegant and give it some movement. The choil (the area under the plunge cuts) is a little crude. The choil itself needs some rounding, but mostly I just don't like it. It seems out of place, like he had several ideas and never finished any of them. If you brought the bottom of the riccasso down another 1/4" (5-6 mm) and squared it off, I think that would flow better. The plunge cut we can see is a little washed out. I'm not really happy with my own plunges right now, so that jumps out at me. I can't tell if there is any distal taper, but that is something I would like to see. Last, the finish. That is pretty coarse, it looks like a filed surface. You say that it's done with hand tools (at least that is what I think you mean). You can't really file hardened steel, so that could be some other sort of process. If it were mine I would start at 220 grit sand paper, or even 150 grit, and, using a hard stick, sand out all of those marks. Once you get to a nice, clean 220 grit surface, getting an even better surface, 1000 grit or so, is pretty easy. In general I like it, it has most of the things we think of when we think "bowie knife". Does any of that help? I don't want to seem to be beating up on the new guy. Geoff
  10. Are you looking for critique for the maker, or for some other reason? I wouldn't want to tear into another makers work without his permission. Geoff
  11. http://www.nimbaanvils.com/ https://www.hollandanvil.com/shop g
  12. I cannot get this copper habaki to solder up. Maybe I'm just not holding my mouth right. Tips, good Juju, prayer? Help? Geoff
  13. I don't know that I've ever seen butane in large tanks in the US. http://www.differencebetween.net/science/difference-between-propane-and-butane/ g
  14. Seems a shame to destroy a perfectly good piece of kit. Nice casting though. Geoff
  15. So I'm asking the Conventional Wisdom. My neighbor has a tree service and sells fire wood on the side. This is in his "to split" pile. Is this worth salvaging? It looks like it curly. big leaf maple with some burly bits. It's about 3 ft across and 3 ft tall
×
×
  • Create New...