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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on May 25

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    Duvall Wa

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  1. Speed is the primary issue. For carbon steels there is a knee in the Time/Temperature diagram that happens at about 900 degrees F. If you can cool the steel below that point in the proper amount of time, the steel will convert to martensite and become hard. The T/T diagram is different for different steels, some need to be faster, some can be a bit slower. 1095 needs to get to the knee in about .3 seconds, 1080 needs to get there in about 3 seconds. Oils can be slow or fast depending on formulation, canola is not particularly fast, but works OK for most of the simple carbon steels, water is much faster (way too fast for steels like 5160), brine (salt water) is faster still and SuperQuench is faster still. Because RR spikes don't really have enough carbon to get hard (a whole other issue) you need SQ to get anything out of them. It makes things made out of them tough, but not hard when compared to a properly heat treated piece of 1080. That is a thumbnail of the information needed to understand making a blade hard. It is the central mystery in our craft. Geoff
  2. I found this on my FB feed. Do any of the folks here have an idea of what this might be? https://germannaarch.wordpress.com/2015/12/23/update-the-little-axe-from-salubria/?fbclid=IwAR3SSeJepX4KtB0SVx07ELgsnNweVYY3bXmIYN8ynyx8_Gmw1rgLaDAslok
  3. That is the most finished piece, it's got a guard fitted and my mark on it. I'd want to grind the mark out. $350? The guard is mild steel, the is air quenched L6. It's big brother is the one on the far right, it needs hand polishing and all of the fit up. I'd let it go for the same money. Geoff
  4. How about some pictures of where you are now. It will be easier to give advice on where to go next. Geoff
  5. Ah, the toggle ends. There are two places. There is the connection of the end of the spring to the toggle and at the other end, a connection to the tup, For the spring end we just took a heat on the longest spring and rolled it around the pin and then smoothed it with a die grinder. We didn't even HT the spring afterwards, just left it as forged. On the tup end the wrist pins are just pushed through the steel block, it's been steel on steel for all of that time. I think a pressed in bushing would be plenty. Hopefully the pics make clear what I'm saying. I figure that my hammer will out live me by a long time. If at some point an owner want to put bushing in, there is plenty of space to do so. We over built everything g
  6. Zeb, if you're talking about the connection from the eccentric to the tup, that was a real ratrod part of the build. We discovered that a 289 wrist pin was the right size, we even used the existing shell bearings. You could use a pillow block or even a bushing. That part of the system is hardly going to be under high speed or high stress. If you're talking about the tup in the guide, I used bronze strips, 4 of them inside the steel guide. They have not shown any wear over the 20 years the hammer has been in service, and, although they are designed to be adjusted, I've never had to. g
  7. The handle is spalted stabilized alder, sort of a one off thing by a local supplier. It's not a trad habaki, it's a solid chunk of NS milled out and fitted. g
  8. Geoff Keyes


    Does anyone have an opinion on this. I'm only in it $10, so you can't hurt my feelings. It appears to be brass or bronze. It's about 2.5" by 3/16th" Geoff
  9. I built my hammer for about 100 hours of fab (3 weeks of nights and weekends) and about $600 USD in cash. This was in 2000. It's been running almost without tweaks since the first day. I changed out the grade 5 bolts in the toggle for grade 8 (they stretched over a couple of years). I changed the the way the pedal worked (it pulled on one side, I changed it to pull down on two sides if the foot bar) and that's it. It's got hundreds of hours on it and I've gone through 1 belt. So the short answer is, no. Geoff
  10. I think cord, but there are lots of options.. The material is so thick that you could just roll the edges and leave it at that. g
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