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Geoff Keyes

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Geoff Keyes last won the day on October 2

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    http://www.5elementsforge.com
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  1. I have made, or at least attempted to make, slip joint folders and the mountain man style exposed spring folders. I made a spring for a pair of needle nose pliers. I also use it for HT small damascus pieces for jewelry. It's not very efficient, a small Kaowool forge works better, I think. It heats faster and is more controllable. I built the 2 brick forge as an experiment. Geoff
  2. If you haven't read this, you probably should. We don't mind beginner questions, particularly when we can keep someone safe(er). Geoff
  3. The Japanese smiths using tamahagane folded it for a couple of reasons. The material is slaggy, folding it refines the material (like running through a rolling mill) and drives out slag. The tamahagne has wildly varying levels of carbon. The smith would use some high carbon and mix that with low carbon to get about .60 carbon at the end (1060-1075 in modern terms) They did both of these things by folding and welding the tamahagane. Because there isn't much difference between the high and low carbon areas, like an addition of nickel, there isn't much contrast, but there is pattern. This is what they call hada. In the polish the polisher makes decisions that either bring out the hada, or not. It has no effect on the strength of the steel, it's part of the aesthetic process. You could get hada by welding mild and 1095, it's very subtle and ghosty. Geoff
  4. I have to agree with everything Alan said. For the space you've got, one, 1.5" burner should be plenty. The bell should be reversed and exterior to the forge case. A leaf blower is too much air by 100 times. You need somewhere between 50 cfm and 100 cfm., like in a bathroom exhaust fan. The fan I use is 100 cfm and I usually have the intake blocked off about 80%. I've never had any luck building a 3/4 burner, 1 1/4" is the smallest I've ever built. Alex says that he built a 1", so there is that. The clear tubing for the gas supply is a HUGE SAFETY ISSUE , don't do it. It looks to me like you've built with a mix of blown and venturi ideas. You need to pick one side, fan driven or not, and go with that. This one won't work as is, IMHO. Geoff
  5. Another issue with the square box design is "cold" corners and hot spots. Curved surfaces promote swirl and a more even temperature. Do not overlook the advantages of blown burners. Venturi systems are techie cool, and, when built and tuned properly, work well and don't require electricity, but a blown system is dead simple and brute force. If you build it with some headroom, if you're not getting enough heat, add more air and fuel. Have a look at this thread I also want to say that you don't need a long forge or a big one (big volume) unless you have a specific need for it. My "everyday" forge has a 6 inch hot zone with two doors. I have forged a 32 inch sword blank in that forge. It would be difficult to heat treat a blade if that length in that forge, but that's why I have a long HT forge. In fact, I have four forges. A HT forge, my "everyday" forge, a welding forge, and a two brick forge I use for tiny projects, like springs.. Geoff
  6. The fire brick is what I call "thermal mass". It's not an insulator, it's a refractory ( it resists heat). For a forge like this to operate you need to heat up the brick to the working temperature and hold it there, all of which costs fuel. What most of us use is one of the spun ceramic fiber blanket insulators. Kaowool is one, but there are lots of others. It's a much more efficient design. About the only time I would suggest the design you've pictured is in an application where it's running for long, continuous shifts, where your startup and run costs are spread over 24 hours. For a hobby smith, a Ceramic blanket forge is a much better design, IMHO. Ask a question and 5 smiths will give you 7 answers Geoff
  7. Why do you want/need to soften the material? The heat treater won't care. That said, there is no way to anneal/normalize ferrous metals without heat, that I know of. Geoff
  8. Geoff, can't see a pm button; what would you consider a fair price for that distressed sword?

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. Geoff Keyes

      Geoff Keyes

      OK, the blade is in the mail.  Postage is 21.85.  Tracking # 9505 8159 1316 9330 2169 37

      Good luck and take pictures

    3. SteveShimanek

      SteveShimanek

      Thanks Geoff, money sent; I will send pics. Regards, Steve

    4. Geoff Keyes

      Geoff Keyes

      We received the payment, thanks

       

  9. This is Abi Yoyo (I'll leave it to you to find out who that is), shop built 50# This is Overkill 15hp 3ph 12 GPM about 30 tons There are some tool and fixtures in this thread that I made Geoff
  10. I built (and when I say "I", I mean friends and I) a 50# mechanical powerhammer and a 30 ton press, If you have fab skills, those tools are probably withing reach. Grinders too. The big "if" is, do you have fab skills? All of those tools are dangerous, high pressures, heavy weights moving at speed, small weights moving at bullet speed. Bad builds and marginal welding can kill you or others One of our members here in the 2010's had a bolt shear through on his hammer. It turned the hammer into scrap and shot a chunk of 2000 degree steel up his sleeve. The burns and other injuries put him out of the shop for more than a year. In some cases, building your own is something not to do. There is a tendency for new smiths to go all in, buying every tool imaginable, and often overpaying in the process. This leads to people like me getting tools on the rebound. My advice is to make some knives and add tools to your kit when you HAVE to, not when you WANT to. You're making small knives now, your kit seems appropriate for what you're doing. If your grinder isn't letting you keep up with production, then replace it. When I got started, all we had for grinders were rocks, and you had to make your own. There were few choices, and most of them were very expensive (from the point of view of a guy who hadn't sold a knife). Now there are a dozen or better makers, and more all of the time, so waiting might save you $. Do you really need a hammer? If I had known a bit more, I would have put my build dollars into a press. The hammer is a great tool, and I love mine, but for many things, the press is better. It certainly is the tool for making damascus. So, in the end, buy or build what works for you, for the work you're doing, and for the work you want to do. Don't try to emulate what I have in my shop just because it makes you all fluttery inside when you see heavy iron. Our Founder, Don Fogg, told me once that he had cut his tool kit down to what he could carry in a single bag (not counting anvil). If he needed a big tool, he had friends with those tools. Pace yourself, this is a marathon, not a sprint. Geoff
  11. Trenton's are considered "A" level anvils and Vulcan's are really second tier, "B" level. $3 a lb for a Vulcan seems like a top dollar amount, but where you are informs that. The difference between a 168 and a 200 is going to be hard to notice in any real sense. I know the allure of a perfect anvil, but if this were me, I'd spend the money elsewhere and keep looking for a bigger anvil, if that's what you want. Just my (somewhat informed) opinion. Geoff
  12. It's not that they will hear it, as much as feel it. The sound travels through the ground in the sub sonic range. It's a low frequency pulse. My hammer is 250 feet from the house and you can sort of hear the thump. It's "only" a 50#er, a big hammer makes a bigger thump. Geoff
  13. I got this sword blade as part of a trade of some kind. I just found it while cleaning. I don't really have time for it, so if there is someone who needs a project, make me an offer. Geoff
  14. A big one, I think it was 3ph. It was about as big around as a beer keg. It was like this one, but a 300# not a 150#
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