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Geoff Keyes

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Everything posted by Geoff Keyes

  1. I would think long and hard before modifying my anvil. It was made that way for a reason, and it's easy (comparatively) to remove metal, it's much harder to put it back. You said that 1 inch was too tight and 7/8 was loose. A little loose is fine for most things in a hardy hole, but too tight can be a disaster. I suspect that many of the anvils that we see with the heels broken off are the result of someone hammering on a tool with a wedged shank. If 1 inch is too tight, take an angle grinder and grind 2 adjacent faces of a 1 inch bar so that you get a nice slip fit. Hard
  2. I had a pre-test blade (one that I made to test my process) that I bent 90 and it came back to within about 10 degrees of true. I then bent it 90 the other direction and it returned to within 10 degrees of true. I repeated that test over several years (90 each direction) until it failed during the 17th test. That was a 5160 blade. I know a maker who made a 5160 test blade and after 3 temper passes, buried the edge in wet sand and drew the spine to blue/white with a A/O torch 10 times. A group of us tried to break that blade for over an hour and finally gave up and went for beers. The
  3. The billet as surface ground. No cracks or delams. Even after grinding this is going to be a big beast.
  4. Just to keep this rolling, I remade the billet, differently of course. I ended up with a X shape in thick 1084 and "W" filling the corners. This thing is massive, which is part of the problem. I cut everything and surfaced it Then I tried to spot weld it, which was not as pretty, but I did manage to straighten it up a bit and then I put it back on the surface grinder and took off most of the welds. I didn't get a pic of that stage Then I got it in the can, which I also don't have pics of and took a nice long heat on it. The welding we
  5. In my experience, not letting the whiteout dry makes a sticky mess with whatever powder you're using and the other pieces in the can. I doesn't coat the can walls, so your billet sticks to the can, and it does coat the billet pieces, so you get poor welds on the perimeter. In the FiF episode (season 5, episode 25, if you want to see what happend) Ashe tried whiteout, didn't let it dry, and then tried to start his billet (time crunch issues). He began to realize that it wasn't going to work, dumped everything, and put a layer of paper shop towel over the whiteout, then stacked his can.
  6. The guy onh FiF who used a paper towel was Ashe Cravenock. You may have noticed a wide load and beard also on that episode (takes small bow). Geoff
  7. My computer was having trouble accessing the site for the last month or so, but the Admins go me sorted. Thanks, guys. I was using Bitdefender as an AV and it turned out to be the problem. I'm back now, did you miss me? Geoff
  8. I've been doing a bunch of Damascus and the forge is getting pretty raggedy. The last time I used Mizzou as the inner surface, over Kaowool. Is there a better material? G
  9. Sinister Plainness, I love that. Boot knife is what she asked for G
  10. I made this as a trade for some silver pieces for another knife, which is on the back burner for now. 1080 acid washed and stone tumbled, about 4 inches flat back grind, like a yari Black dyed walnut (also flat backed) and a blackened steel spacer The new owner wants as plain as possible, it was a real effort not to do some sort of embellishment. I hope she likes it.
  11. I find peening to be more trouble than it's worth. It's hard to get a really tight fit, and there is always the danger of splitting the handle. On a lot of my work, small pieces like this one especially, I rely on the epoxy to hold everything. Modern epoxies, particularly the 24 hour stuff is stronger than the handle material in nearly every case. This may sound stupid, but you don't need to thread all of the tang. If you worked carefully you could probably cut threads on what you have exposed. The only part that would have threads would be the 2 narrow edges, but considering how lit
  12. What are you using for tools? Practice is what helps. If you practice on wood, you'll be good at doing it......in wood This guy built a grinding jig with a angle grinder Draw filing, or a mix of draw and cross filing works to even things out This is a project that I was concerned about screwing up the bevels on. I did the heavy grinding on the 2x72, but all of the refinement was done with files It's not fast, but how much of a hurry are you in? My first teacher always said, make 50 of something, th
  13. I found this old thread, and RG talked about just that
  14. 2 man buck saw, or a crosscut saw. I found one in the basement when we moved in 15 years ago. Good steel for scrapers and such. We are in logging country and old tools like this are still pretty common, the woods around our house are full of cedar stumps with springboard cuts in them. This is the Serb I made, pretty silly, but the owner loves it G
  15. I have a project that surfaced in the disaster that is my bench. Part of it is a hemp cord wrap on a handle and scabbard. I'd like to soak the cord in something to reinforce it. I'm looking for recommendations, glue, varnish, some other thing? Thanks g
  16. Every so often you just have to make something for your self. This one came out of a "Serbian" cleaver project. The cleaver went off to it's new owner (and he's happy with it. I hated it.) I had no luck HT'ing this stuff, it just turned into a potato chip, so I left them as found (pretty hard) and cut them with an angle grinder and ground them carefully. I'm waiting on some parts, so I decided to finish up some quick stuff. Steel "?" 1095 at a guess Handle: Stabilized black locust burl Very light very sharp. G
  17. I run mine at about 1-2 psi, about 80% of the air choked off, and the needle valve open about 50%. That gives me plenty of "head room" on the burner. I can open up the air and add more gas, or I can choke the air back even farther and dial the gas back to a whisper. Forging in bright light is a problem, it takes away a lot of information you need. Many of us keep a bucket or something to use as a sun shade handy, if we need to do that. g
  18. First of all, the word is tongs, your spell checker may have misfired. Second, there is a lot of info here about shop built anvils. A piece of leaf spring won't do the job very well. Third, you don't need to do a wrapped and welded eye for an axe (unless you want to) You could start with a small sledge or ball pien hammer and forge a nice little axe out of that. You won't need to weld a bit into it since most tools like that are hardenable steel (1050 or 4140, often). If by charcoal you mean real, made from wood, lump charcoal, that works pretty well, though you will burn thr
  19. The answer is, it depends. Have a close look at blades you have, and see what those makers did. Kitchen knives (good ones, at least) have a near zero bevel. The grind is flat from wherever they start the bevel (near the spine) right to the edge. Those big chunky American made folders (you know who I mean) use a semi hollow saber grind and a big secondary bevel. A convex or apple seed edge puts a little bit of meat behind the edge for strength. It all depends on the expected use. The thing that I have discovered is that you can often get by with much less steel than you think. This is s
  20. Try running at dusk or after dark. That will give you a clearer picture of your temps and a notion of where your burner settings should be. G
  21. I use a carbide faced filing jig to set the plunges. The carbide ones are a bit more expensive, but the grinder belts won't touch them. I still end up having to go in and dress the plunges with a file, but the guide is invaluable. g
  22. There's hardly any point in finishing a RR spike. I mean, sure, it's better steel than humans had for several thousand years, but it's not a knife steel. Before you HT (with a proper steel) it doesn't matter all that much how much you over heat the steel grinding it, some normalize heats will fix it. After it's hard, if it turns blue, you heat treat is gone and you need to start over. Before HT you need to leave about the thickness of a nickel at the edge to allow yourself room to grind away decarburized material. Forge thick, grind thin. g
  23. An artifact is exactly the feel I was after, thanks! Geoff
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