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Geoff Keyes

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Everything posted by Geoff Keyes

  1. Speed is the primary issue. For carbon steels there is a knee in the Time/Temperature diagram that happens at about 900 degrees F. If you can cool the steel below that point in the proper amount of time, the steel will convert to martensite and become hard. The T/T diagram is different for different steels, some need to be faster, some can be a bit slower. 1095 needs to get to the knee in about .3 seconds, 1080 needs to get there in about 3 seconds. Oils can be slow or fast depending on formulation, canola is not particularly fast, but works OK for most of the simple carbon steels, water is much faster (way too fast for steels like 5160), brine (salt water) is faster still and SuperQuench is faster still. Because RR spikes don't really have enough carbon to get hard (a whole other issue) you need SQ to get anything out of them. It makes things made out of them tough, but not hard when compared to a properly heat treated piece of 1080. That is a thumbnail of the information needed to understand making a blade hard. It is the central mystery in our craft. Geoff
  2. I found this on my FB feed. Do any of the folks here have an idea of what this might be? https://germannaarch.wordpress.com/2015/12/23/update-the-little-axe-from-salubria/?fbclid=IwAR3SSeJepX4KtB0SVx07ELgsnNweVYY3bXmIYN8ynyx8_Gmw1rgLaDAslok
  3. That is the most finished piece, it's got a guard fitted and my mark on it. I'd want to grind the mark out. $350? The guard is mild steel, the is air quenched L6. It's big brother is the one on the far right, it needs hand polishing and all of the fit up. I'd let it go for the same money. Geoff
  4. How about some pictures of where you are now. It will be easier to give advice on where to go next. Geoff
  5. Ah, the toggle ends. There are two places. There is the connection of the end of the spring to the toggle and at the other end, a connection to the tup, For the spring end we just took a heat on the longest spring and rolled it around the pin and then smoothed it with a die grinder. We didn't even HT the spring afterwards, just left it as forged. On the tup end the wrist pins are just pushed through the steel block, it's been steel on steel for all of that time. I think a pressed in bushing would be plenty. Hopefully the pics make clear what I'm saying. I figure that my hammer will out live me by a long time. If at some point an owner want to put bushing in, there is plenty of space to do so. We over built everything g
  6. Zeb, if you're talking about the connection from the eccentric to the tup, that was a real ratrod part of the build. We discovered that a 289 wrist pin was the right size, we even used the existing shell bearings. You could use a pillow block or even a bushing. That part of the system is hardly going to be under high speed or high stress. If you're talking about the tup in the guide, I used bronze strips, 4 of them inside the steel guide. They have not shown any wear over the 20 years the hammer has been in service, and, although they are designed to be adjusted, I've never had to. g
  7. The handle is spalted stabilized alder, sort of a one off thing by a local supplier. It's not a trad habaki, it's a solid chunk of NS milled out and fitted. g
  8. Geoff Keyes


    Does anyone have an opinion on this. I'm only in it $10, so you can't hurt my feelings. It appears to be brass or bronze. It's about 2.5" by 3/16th" Geoff
  9. I built my hammer for about 100 hours of fab (3 weeks of nights and weekends) and about $600 USD in cash. This was in 2000. It's been running almost without tweaks since the first day. I changed out the grade 5 bolts in the toggle for grade 8 (they stretched over a couple of years). I changed the the way the pedal worked (it pulled on one side, I changed it to pull down on two sides if the foot bar) and that's it. It's got hundreds of hours on it and I've gone through 1 belt. So the short answer is, no. Geoff
  10. I think cord, but there are lots of options.. The material is so thick that you could just roll the edges and leave it at that. g
  11. This is a proto for a customer. I did a kiridashi grind on this one, but there are lots of other options. What do folks think?
  12. Are there any marking on the spine, flowers or stars, perhaps? On a FB forum dealing with swords and the like, the thought is that it's 18th century, perhaps a broken, re-mount of a sword, and European. If it's the tip of a sword, that would be why there are no makers marks. A broken sword re-mounted on a bayonet handle? Maybe. g
  13. I am far from an expert, and since we are makers here (mostly) rather than collectors, knowledge may be a little thin. The mounting system is strange, and the marks on the blade makes me think India (?). Where are you, where did you find it, do you have any more info? g
  14. I'm trying to clear the decks a bit, so before I put most of these in a drawer, is there anyone out there looking for a big blade? I can finish any of these to your custom order. They are all carbon steel (no pattern weld), most of them are 1080, the two polished ones are L6. If you are looking for a project, contact me and we can talk about a blank for you to finish. Geoff
  15. Some pictures would be helpful
  16. It's very cool, I'd go for it at that price. If you mounted it on a block that filled the hole between the legs, that would help kill the ring. Some kind of a bridge anvil? g
  17. IMHO, if you straighten out the handle, it would have a better flow. g
  18. A hard surface forge is less efficient because the hard material is not an insulator, it a refractory. A forge like that works best if it's running long hours with high throughput. You are burning gas just to keep the bricks hot whether you are working or not. A ceramic wool is an insulator, it's holding the heat in the forge where it does you some good. In general, you burn less gas for the same work in wool forge than in the same sized brick forge. Another point I feel like I should make, curved surfaces in the burn chamber are more effective. A square box makes for "cold" corners. OTOH, I know you're in Namibia, and I don't know what the availability of ceramic wool blankets is. If you can't get the ceramic, then castable in a tube shape would be my next best advice. Geoff
  19. Last pic for now. I got nearly 7 inches pulled out of that little piece, just over 4 inches of blade back to where I will cut the shoulders. Not too bad. A bit of NS and some stag and I'll have a little B&T. Geoff
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