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Geoff Keyes

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Everything posted by Geoff Keyes

  1. Geoff Keyes

    seeking advice on my burner

    Without seeing it, and given that I'm really a forced air guy, I'm betting that the orifice is too large, and/or, you don't have enough gas pressure. We see this a lot, someone will come and say "I built this and it's just like X, except that I changed all of these things. Why doesn't it work?" Venturi burners are a bit fussy, and tiny things can cause them to not function. It's a hard thing to do with scrounged pieces. Once you get it running it will be stable, but it's going to pretty hard to diagnose via the internet. It also looks to me that your injector is not dead straight into the throat, and that might cause issues. Perhaps one of the more experienced Venturi guy will weigh in. Geoff
  2. Geoff Keyes

    Good inexpensive wood rasp set?

    Good and inexpensive......hmmmmm.........you can have good or you can have inexpensive, but the two together, that is a unicorn. I like a "four-in-hand", but I had a cheap one that I had to throw away, none of the faces would cut. I have a cheap set of HF rasps and I think they are way to aggressive for the way I want to use them. They just gouge holes in things. My advice is to pay a little more to get a known brand rather than buy a bunch of cheap ones, struggle with them, thrown them away, and buy the better ones later on. Often paying a bit more for good quality is the cheapest route. g
  3. Geoff Keyes

    Axe question.

    Be sure to block up the ends of the forge, it will heat faster. You need an exit out each end (venturis are fussy about back pressure) so you need to balance flow through and access against holding the heat. A pile of fire brick works just fine. Breaking down big stock is a chore by hand. I try to think of ways to do that without using all of my strength for the day. Yes, I have a hammer and press, but I still think that way. Keep us informed as to your progress. g
  4. Geoff Keyes

    Help with Kris hilt design

    There is a ton of variation that I'm seeing. Many of them have a separate steel/iron guard/spacer, some of which seem to be held on by silver/copper/bronze "straps". There also seems to be a feature which might be a stylized garuda Geoff
  5. Geoff Keyes

    Help with Kris hilt design

    This is a form that has invaded my design head space, if that makes any sense. Does anyone here have images of Kris (as a generic term) with the hilt parts dismounted? You can see from this one that the blade and hilt are 2 pieces, held together with a pair of "straps". Any insight into the notches and such would also be helpful. Thanks Geoff
  6. Geoff Keyes

    Axe question.

    I realize the you already have steel, and perhaps the practice of welding the bit is part of why you are doing this, but..... Why not just start with a piece of hardenable steel 1 inch square? 5160, 1080, 4140, would all be good choices. You could also forge a nice thrower from a small sledge hammer, which saves you the trouble of forging an eye. As for your round stock. Slice a round and forge this Just some thoughts for you. Geoff
  7. Geoff Keyes

    New power hammer design/possible WIP

    You might also find some interesting design ideas here Geoff
  8. Geoff Keyes

    heat treating ulu's made from saw blades

    Did you do a trad single sided grind, that will amplify the tendency to warp. You could try grinding them after you HT them. You might also try binding several of them into a stack and HT'ing the whole thing, the extra mass may help, or you could clamp them between two pieces of mild and then doing the HT. g
  9. Geoff Keyes

    Forging a leg vise!!!

    Dayum! G
  10. Geoff Keyes

    New power hammer design/possible WIP

    I think this is called a cricket, this is a foot powered version
  11. Geoff Keyes

    New power hammer design/possible WIP

    They make for better drawing hammers because there is only one place in the stroke where the dies are parallel. It looks like the bottom one uses a piece of RR track as the helve. It always gives me a sad smile to see the JYH vid. Neither Jack or Grant are with us any more. Geoff
  12. Geoff Keyes

    I needs some grinder help

    Ebay has tons of motors, and so do these guys. You don't say what HP you're looking for. If there are motor shops in your area, places where they service and rebuilt motors, that might be a good place to start. You don't need an old motor, but you may have to change up the mounts. g
  13. Geoff Keyes

    I am VERY VERY pleased with this!!

    Compared to what? I find an 80 to be much less good at moving steel than 60, and 36 is my goto for shaping. Each of the grit materials cut differently, even in the same grit, which is something else to think about g
  14. Geoff Keyes

    I am VERY VERY pleased with this!!

    It comes out to about $2 per belt plus shipping. Total for 24 belts is about $60. I spend a lot more for the ceramics g
  15. Geoff Keyes

    I am VERY VERY pleased with this!!

    Try these guys https://www.industrialabrasives.com/2-x-72-everlast-aluminum-oxide-sanding-belts-00151-p-468.html?zenid=jtuhpcfpk3fi79mqmj3suv36u6 They are not the best belts, (I buy high end ceramic 36-60 grits), but it's where I buy 100-400 grits. Notice the " buy 12, get 12". 24 belts for the price of 12, and I've neverhad a problem with shipping g
  16. Geoff Keyes

    ABS Journeyman test of production knives?

    I'm not sure I understand. What is it about such a knife do you think is a problem? g
  17. Geoff Keyes

    ABS Journeyman test of production knives?

    All of that is true, IMHO. I am an ABS JS, so I have some experience here. The test knives are meant to test the smiths ability to put a hard, durable, edge in a package with a soft, flexible spine, all in a package 10 inches long. I don't know about a mild steel test knife, it's hard to see how the edge would withstand the chopping and shaving parts of the test. I have seen a mild steel blade sharp enough to cut a rope, but just once. It would not cut a second time. I made all of my latter stage test knives (I broke quite a few before I really nailed the HT) without points, like big razors. It helps with the chop test and there aren't any parts of the test that require a point, so why do it? The presentation suite is meant to show your ability to work to a high standard. None of the testing is designed to tell you, as a maker. what or how to make knives in your shop. The hope is that you will continue to do work of a similar quality, but that is up to the individual maker and not the ABS. The ABS only cares about the test knives and the performance standards of those knives. You can get amazing results with fairly simple steels. I made test knives out of 5160, but switched to 1084 and got much better results. I don't think I ever found the edge of the performance envelope of either steel. Geoff
  18. Geoff Keyes

    Makers marks

    I'm thinking that as a resource for current makers and for collectors that a pinned catalog of known makers marks (with pics) would be useful. Anyone else. Geoff
  19. Geoff Keyes

    ABS Journeyman test of production knives?

    I have not. I think, in fact I'm sure, that the bend test would be the tough one for most production knives. Have you got one in mind? A 10 inch chef could do the rope, and maybe the bend, but the chop would eat up the edge. A production camp knife I would expect to fail the bend. I've got a coil of rope and a bending vice, let's do it. Geoff Only to be for ABS purposes. You could still run them through the test, it just wouldn't count. Geoff
  20. Geoff Keyes

    Doing some "production" work

    Well, it's more production than my usual style. I need some table stock for a Mountain Man show in a month or so. I'm going to make a bunch of small, rustic, rat tail knives. I should have enough stock left over to make a bunch of friction folders. I am not usually a fan of mystery steel, but in this case I know what this stuff is, it's 1095. The stock is old school plumbing tools, from the days when cast iron pipes were joined with lead, wax and oakum. I often make punches and other tools out of this stuff, but I wanted some small stock and this is a pretty easy way to get it on short notice. It's a bit chilly in the hot shop, and we have another big storm bearing down on us. I guess we should not have taunted winter. Each pic is one heat per piece of stock. The first pass was on the press, then the power hammer, which does a better job getting down to 1/4" thick and then a hand hammer. I'll do full tangs on these, and with what is left over, I'll make friction folders or some stick tang stuff. g
  21. Geoff Keyes

    Doing some "production" work

    Just an update. It's been cold an snowy (3 FEET of snowy) which makes everything harder, but I've managed to get a few hours in. All of the pieces cut to length, rat tails curled and ground and ready for HT tomorrow.
  22. Geoff Keyes

    Frame Handled Fighter (been some time since I posted)

    Very nice. That must have taken some thought to get all of that right. g
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