Jerrod Miller

Thanks for sharing that Dan, the whole video was very nice!

Not necessarily, but not enough info given (need better pictures) and certainly not what is typically referred to when "edge packing" is used. Classical "edge packing" is a myth. What OP is describing is apparently a mechanical refinement of carbides (size and more importantly placement). Not really enough evidence to say if the claims have merit, but I would also say it isn't out of the realm of possibility (though my gut feeling is that it is not very likely).

No worries. I went to their page and looked for anything called chain maker tongs, and even did a site search on their site (site: blacksmithsdepot.com chain tongs), and nothing came up with that name. I was kinda wondering if it is something that they no longer carry. I was thinking, based on my very limited knowledge of how chain is made, that they could be off-set bolt tongs. To add a link on the forum here (like I did earlier in this post) is actually pretty easy, once you know the trick. Copy the address you want linked, then in the post that you are typing there is an icon at the top of the "new post editing block" that looks like three links of a chain (how fitting here!). Click on that and you can paste the link into the pop-up box in the "URL" line. If you want it to show up as something slicker than the actual link, you can type in the lower box to have it say something else. So we can have https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/ or Blade Smiths Forum. They both link to the homepage of the forum.

This is actually possibly more problematic as you run the risk of temper embrittlement at the worst spot possible. Differential hardening is less likely to cause undue stresses, I would think. Every time Matt talks about metallurgy I cringe. But generally I like his videos, and I think I have seen them all. In this case he did bring up either not hardening or tempering back a mono-steel tang, so he did at least save himself a little there. He is apparently under the impression that weld failures don't happen and welding is easier than proper heat treat.

I just did and I couldn't find any with that name. Blacksmithsdepot.com tongs

The most common used is ferric chloride (which is technically a salt). You can get it from places that sell electronics components (like Radio Shack used to), as it is a circuit board etchant. You can also make your own by dissolving iron (or iron oxide) in hydrochloric/muriatic acid.

They really weren't great at drawing things in perspective. Though you can tell his pants and the opponent's shirt used to be pink/red. A few hundred years worth of ink fading going on. It is rather surprising how many sword techniques finish with something along the lines of "then move into wrestling to finish him". In this case he is indeed supposed to throw him (either a tackle or suplex), as described in the text accompanying the image. A good device for a strong man. When you bind with someone upon the sword. Act as if you wish to wind into his face and shove firmly with your cross upon his sword and raise high and allow your sword to fall over your head and fall to him below around both feet, as is pictured here. Thus, you throw him. In short: Blame the illustrator, not the instructor.

Looks like it didn't keep the Dagger section expanded. Gotta click that to see the historical images on dagger instruction.

Typically you would parry the arm, not the blade. https://wiktenauer.com/wiki/Nuremberg_Group

Wait to melt until you have your sand ready to go. Make your mold and pour into that. You can (and should) make some sand ingot molds for the left over metal, as well as some extra just in case you don't want to pour into your actual mold for any reason.

I would like to point out for those that don't know, these are the indentations from the Vicker's hardness test. This is a very small (localized) hardness check.

That is a fun phase diagram. Thanks for sharing.

Just a reminder that you are looking at melting aluminum, not smelting. Terminology in this case is important, as those are 2 surprisingly different things.

Some would also say that 60 HRC is way too hard for an anvil. The Atlas is listed as being made out of 1050, which is not going to get very deep hardening, which shouldn't be too big of an issue as long as you don't reface it. I'd even be surprised if it was really 1050 and 60 HRC. It is also valid to point out that things like this coming from China (and other such markets) tend to not maintain a consistently good quality. So while the first batch may look good, if you are considering buying one I would recommend looking for the most recent reviews to ensure the current quality is what you want.

If anything, and like Will I don't think anything is necessary, but another wire inlay on the back end of the handle might look pretty cool. But if you feel the buttcap is needed, silver or matching damascus.