Jerrod Miller

Here it is.

Same.

I didn't look at the other thread, so apologies if I put a similar answer that doesn't help clarify things. Warping comes from uneven stresses. The blade can be warp free, but still under stress, and in fact these stresses can be what is holding it straight. When you thermal cycle, you remove these stresses, and possibly add new ones. It is quite common to get warps from the first thermal cycle for these reasons. If you get some after the first ccle, I would think that you are likely introducing new stresses upon cooling from the previous cycle. This can be from putting the blade down on the anvil to cool (NOT recommended!), or even from a breeze that cools one side faster than the other. How are you cooling your blades during these cycles?

I absolutely love seeing posts like this (whether it be for tongs, blades, or anything else). With that attitude success is just a matter of time, and likely quicker than not.

We were just talking about this in the office. We have a couple orders (let's just say a few dozen anvils) to make now. Not bad for just his first article review and pre-orders.

Unfortunately I am not familiar with a condition C1 or CI, though CI is short for cast iron in my world. I know a few miscellaneous places to look, and couldn't find it there either. So my best guess is that is is specific to whoever painted it on there. Heavy section 4340 is hard to heat treat. Definitely best with oil. I've seen 100-110 F water used, too, but that leads to chances of cracking. Might have better luck just doing the face (the face isn't a heavy section). When I was working on making my anvil I trialed 4340, but didn't like how the face marred with errant hammer blows. I was fortunate enough to be able to be picky. If I didn't have the resources that I have, I would certainly be happy to stumble upon a big chunk of 4340.

I'd try it without the nut/washer flange piece, then try adjusting how far the MIG tip sits into the flare, from deep down in to out of the flare. Also try various pressures and flow rates throughout.

Alan has the book. Now that you have an anvil, beware: They can become an addiction. Just ask @Jeremy Blohm.

I'm guessing you aren't getting any bites on this for 3 reasons. 1) Cru Forge V just isn't very popular (in general and with with smiths on this forum). Not that people hate it, they just prefer other alloys. 2) Given that nobody likes it that much, you aren't offering a blazing deal. The rough math says your listed price is less than 10% off of the price from Alpha Knife Supply. 3) With those two things considered, most people here aren't looking to buy 65 pounds of steel at a time. Sure, some people are, but a majority here are not. Just tossing this out as a maybe. Who knows, someone may point out that I'm wrong or that there is another reason. But you certainly don't have to keep posting to bump it up. It has been on the front page of the "Tools, Supplies and Materials" sub-forum since you initially posted it.

5160 is too deep hardening for a clay induced hamon. You can differentially harden by edge quenching though. You need a steel that is much more shallow hardening. Something with low Mn and Cr. Also, 5160 should only be quenched in oil.

In addition to Charles' link: Everything burns with a different color. So there are a wide array of colors of flames that you may see coming off, depending on what contaminant is oxidizing (burning). It is even possible that you can see a crazy looking flame that isn't all that hot.

Daniel and Alan nailed it pretty well. The only other thing I will add is that, if you wanted to hardening it, you can temper it in complete darkness to the point it is just starting to show signs of glowing. That will be about 900 F. Do not let it slow cool from this temperature. You want to heat and cool through the blue brittle range as quickly as possible when you have martensite to temper.

Alan covered it nicely. I'll just add this: Given enough energy (thermal and mechanical while forge welding) you would start getting things to be quite homogeneous. Given enough time at the right temperature (cycling may be necessary), you could certainly undo all the good in any CPM alloy.

The wife and I honeymooned there 3 years ago. It was great. Everyone should try to go and see it.

In addition, I would think you would get a lot of welding flaws/inclusions. Ni works well in a forge weld, not sure how well many other things would work.