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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Jerrod Miller

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Jerrod Miller last won the day on December 6 2017

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About Jerrod Miller

  • Birthday 03/25/1984

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    Jerrod Miller 25
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  • Location
    Spokane Washington
  • Interests
    Steel metallurgy, HEMA, forging (blades and otherwise).

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  1. Is this cast iron

    Can't tell from that picture. Take a ball bearing and a ruler; the rebound test will tell you if it is a good anvil or not.
  2. 5160-52100 differentially water quenched..

    I'm planning on building a shop (with living quarters) this summer, so if I had the hardcover I would certainly sell it and fund the shop! I'd even sell it for $3k and offer free shipping. But sadly, mine's paperback.
  3. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    Depends on how big of a block of 4140. The link you had shows a neat swage block, but I don't see any dovetails in it (male or female). Getting a dovetail milled into the mild might be a little more than the 4140 die, because it requires a special cutter where the die can be cut with a standard end mill. Typically I would figure $100-150/hour for a machine shop rate, and figure 1.5-2 hours (each die or base) for the 8" size mentioned above. This is purely a guess though. Also, find someone that does it on a hobby level and it will be cheaper, and it isn't very difficult to do (for someone with a milling machine and the proper tooling). You'd want to have the die cut prior to hardening though, so there is HT and post HT clean up to factor in as well.
  4. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    Yep; you buy it, it is yours. We store it for free as long as you are going to order parts from us, but when you are done ordering, or you just want to hang the pattern on your wall, we'll ship it to you (you pay for shipping, of course).
  5. Custom Anvil for Knifemakers

    The reason you won't find anyone selling new anvils like that is simple: you won't sell enough. It is hard enough to sell enough generic blacksmithing anvils to be worth while. Could they be made? Absolutely. Would it be easy? Sure. If you were to go with a cast anvil, that is a simple core to add. Converting an existing anvil to have the dovetail is a bit trickier. The Rhino anvils we cast are tool steel that you couldn't easily machine (wire EDM might be the best option, but who knows?). The Nimbas are 8640, and they could be machined pre-quench and temper (probably should do a normalize first). Personally, I think this is a prime example of where it would be best to get a length of 8x8 (or even round) mild, mill the dovetail slot, then add hardened dies (such as 4140 or similar ~52 HRC material). Proper wedges in the dovetail would make it quite solid, yet easy to change out (works for power hammers, right?). That being said, if anyone wants to place an order, just let me know and I'll get you in touch with a sales guy to give you a quote. Expect to pay $2,000-3,000 for a pattern (possibly more if you get a bit fancy), then $3.5 or so per pound for the anvil.
  6. 5160-52100 differentially water quenched..

    Nah, the book I used for reference only weighs a couple pounds (Amazon says 9.6 oz, and I don't have a scale in my office, but I'd say more like 2 pounds).
  7. Grinders, grinders, grinders....

    You realize that is just for the black base-plate, right? The actual grinder with motor is another listing for $730 (and doesn't include that $100 base plate).
  8. Suggested list of belts for new knife makers?

    Check out the Tools, Supplies and Materials sub-forum. Especially check this thread that asked the same question a month ago: Belts!!
  9. So, you want to make a knife. OR,

    If you are going to buy a new tank anyway, you may want to go with a compressed air tank. Harbor Freight sells them in 5 gallon and 11 gallon sizes.
  10. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    Cool, thanks Florian!
  11. 5160-52100 differentially water quenched..

    You are, and that chart is a fantastic aid to my rambling "explanation". I'll make a note in my post above to let people know they should skip the words and go straight to your chart. Though a bit of warning: It goes quicker, but not super quick. Damascus evens out carbon content pretty well for 2 reasons: 1) you spend quite a bit of time at very high temperatures, and 2) your layers get pretty thin so it doesn't have to move too far to get an even distribution. Case hardening something like a gear (or a blade blank for that matter) takes MUCH longer than you would think to get to an effective depth. Also, be aware that interstitial diffusion of C, as noted on that chart, is MUCH faster than substitutional diffusion. So grain growth is slower than carbon diffusion.
  12. 5160-52100 differentially water quenched..

    Would you accept "very slow"? If you look into Fick's Laws of Diffusion, you'll see why you don't really want to open that can of worms. Suffice it to say that there is no reason to soak beyond the time it takes to dissolve your carbides (a few seconds to a few minutes, depending on alloy), so don't do it. You also shouldn't heat more than you need to (note that forging and aggressive normalizations do count as "needs" for this context). I over simplified a bit earlier. To expand a little: Edit: I recommend skipping all this reading unless you are a little crazy (like me). Skip down to the next post where Wes found a chart that sums up this stuff pretty well. Atoms need a little energy to start moving around in the lattice. This is the activation energy. Depending on what atoms and what structure, this could be room temp or considerably higher. Once you pass that activation energy, things just happen quicker. This is why over heating is not good, because it makes things happen very quickly. If you were to hold . Interstitial (like carbon in steel) and substitutional (like Cr or Mn in Fe) diffusion are slightly different, as is moving of grain boundaries, which is a form of diffusion. On top of that, atomic stacking plays into it. So if you were to compare BCC at 15 degrees below critical and 5 degrees below critical, you would see a different constant once you look at BCC at 5 degrees below critical and FCC 5 degrees above critical (even though both steps are just 10 degrees). Generally (VERY generally), the diffusion equation looks like this: D1 = D0 * exp(-Q/(RT)) D1 is your diffusion coefficient, D0 is your material constant (non-temperature dependent, experimentally determined), exp means exponent (so D0*e^(-Q/RT) is what is meant, and e^1 is 2.718, in the same way Pi is 3.14), Q is the activation enthalpy, R is the universal gas constant (yes, even though we aren't dealing with gases), and T is the temperature. For example with units, here is C in BCC Fe: D0 = 2.0 mm^2/sec, Q = 84.1kJ/mol, R = 8.314 J/mol K (that is degrees Kelvin) You would look up D0 and Q for your given situation (e.g. C in BCC Fe). Which is what I did for the above example. If we wanted to look up C in FCC Fe, the numbers would be different. None of that is necessary to worry about with bladesmithing. It is all very much overkill. You should be able to do everything you need for normalizing and hardening by watching for decalescence and recalescence and counting off seconds in your head (or look at a watch/clock). I know you are sorry you asked. I forgive you. You didn't know better. Please let this be a lesson for the future.
  13. 5160-52100 differentially water quenched..

    Grain growth can happen at sub-critical temperatures, though it is pretty slow. Any time you induce stresses you get the opportunity to reduce grain size, and there is definitely stresses from the thermal expansion and contraction. It is all pretty minimal though. Mainly, sub critical stuff is just for stress relief and carbon diffusion (spheroidizing). Just remember, if your carbon can move, so can your grain boundaries. A sub-critical step like that could be helpful in reducing stresses from previous above critical step. In my opinion it is all overkill, but definitely is sound practice. All the soaks are a bit on the long side, but that isn't really a quality problem, just a time/energy issue.
  14. Antler handle hidden tang -- how?

    Great point; sorry I missed having that in my initial post!