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Jerrod Miller

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Jerrod Miller last won the day on December 6

Jerrod Miller had the most liked content!

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About Jerrod Miller

  • Birthday 03/25/1984

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    Jerrod Miller 25
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    Spokane Washington
  • Interests
    The outdoors, books, movies, medeival stuff, and of course blades and fire.

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  1. Etching problems

    1080/1084 is the easiest to HT on your own, but generally you won't get a hamon. I would recommend doing a few knives without trying for a hamon, just to get that part down a bit more before trying to add something a little trickier. Definitely learn to watch for decalescence and recalescence (and toss the magnet). Also, what did you do to clean the blade prior to etching?
  2. Etching problems

    Also, just past non-magnetic is too cold, should be at least 75 F above.
  3. Some stainless questions

    I don't personally use any stainless in blacksmithing/bladesmithing applications (other than my anvil, which is a slightly modified version of 440C). They have zero appeal for me. That being said, I know there are a great many makers that love both 154CM and AEB-L.
  4. Some stainless questions

    440C is highly over-rated. The one and only times I will begrudgingly acknowledge that 440C is a reasonable choice for a blade are 1) Saltwater (e.g. diving) applications and 2) It is literally the only material available/it was free. Never buy 440C (excepting for saltwater applications, maybe). If a chef/cook can't handle washing and drying a knife right after using it in the kitchen (i.e. like with carbon steel) then they probably aren't ready for a handmade knife in the kitchen (no offense meant here, just that it is wise to treat all good kitchen knives that well). Also, a little knife rusting isn't going to ruin anything, other than maybe aesthetics a little. You may want to consider CPM 154CM if you want to go that route.
  5. It's all about the crucibles

    MAPP burns about 30% hotter than propane (and costs about 30% more). The reason a propane burner is recommended is because you can buy a bigger tank of propane (easier to buy one at least) and build/buy a bigger burner. Plumbing style soldering torches have a hot enough flame, just not generally a big enough flame.
  6. Burner Placement

    Vern just gave you one: it will reduce your efficiency. Don't do it if you want best results. If you want to play and don't care about having a slightly worse set-up, go for it.
  7. First blade, feelin' proud

    Practicing basic blacksmithing skills on cheap/mystery metal is also a very good thing. Use some RR spikes to make a leaf or 2 (or 10). Try some scroll work. Any forging practice will help develop skills that will be applicable to forging blades.
  8. First blade, feelin' proud

    Heat treating sexy steel.
  9. First blade, feelin' proud

    Probably this, but definitely there is a limitation to the metal. Get some good quality blade steel (even a chunk of leaf/coil spring). Stop by a local spring shop (there will be several in Chicago, a bunch in all of the Chicagoland area) and ask about cut-offs. They will probably sell you good blade size chunks (I've gotten over 3' from one before) of never-used spring steel for a couple bucks. They may let you have it for free. Show up with doughnuts and you're pretty much guaranteed to leave with what you need! They should be able to tell you exactly what alloy it is too (most likely 5160).
  10. Stainless San Mai

    It is difficult because the Cr content rapidly forms an oxide layer, thus making it difficult to stick the welds. Stainless is often (but not always) done in a canister for this reason.
  11. 201 stainless and 316 for san mai Damascus outer layer

    Never played with it, but I would be surprised if the 201 could be etched dark with normal processes due to its Cr and Ni content.
  12. Please be careful.

    That is the one that got me. Love it.
  13. chain/steel question

    Nah, I don't make chain. Just a hunch because it is strong enough to meet that spec and a bit cheaper.
  14. chain/steel question

    Personally, I would bet on 8620.
  15. O1/K460

    You're better off not having it. That alloy is in between 410 and 440A. I would say neither of those make a decent blade choice, and that would hold true for something in between. You would need to heat slowly to about 1875 and soak for a minimum of 15 minute, 30 would be better, then a slow oil quench. And even then you would get the most from the material which is not as good as O-1.