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  1. I am about to marry his great great great great granddaughter and am in the process of making one for her father (sanctioned by the clan). I am glad to see that you made the real sword and not the "braveheart" sword....they hate that movie. Mel Gibson was too small to be a Wallace.
  2. My latest update has been a little long in the tooth, but I got the edge bevels forged. I need to do some touch up work on them and the tang, but here are some updated pics. ~Note to self...be cognizant of heat transfer through gloves...ouch!~
  3. Awesome knife and video Murat. I really like the design and aesthetics of it.
  4. K, after a short day at the forge (and prior to the rain and ice starting), I have the sunobe mostly shaped...though I didn't get as much done this week as I would have liked, I did get some. Good thing its only a hobby and passion. The overall length at this stage is 33" (27 1/2 B X 5 1/2 T). One thing I have learned about this steel is that it is really prone to rust. Definitely will need at least a med-high to high polish + blade wax or coating to keep it in good shape after it is complete. I hope that it will hold up to testing after I've made it, b/c I am liking this steel so far
  5. That is actually my nephew's forge. It is a small forge, but does indeed have a pass through with a gate on the back of it. The whole forge is about 15" long x 8" in diameter. Get your fire right and hell doesn't even have heats like that. I have the next 3 days off and hope to have the edge bevels forged and ready for rough grinding by thursday.
  6. As promised...I began the forging on a katana using Cru Forge V steel. I've never worked with it before, but it seems to work a lot like 1086. It does tend to cool down rather quickly and is a little red hard, but nothing a little heat can't take care of (I cut a small piece off the end of the bar to test the forging temps on it). The steel came in 1.25" W x 1/4" T x 36" long flat stock, so I am upsetting it down the length a bit to accomadate for the thickness once the edge bevels are forged. Here are some pics of the progress so far...
  7. Gorgeous knife Toby!!! How does one go about constructing the feather pattern? <scratch that...just found your tutorial>
  8. Ok, so I'm going to stick with mono steel, as I actually plan on using it. I also found one that is aesthetically close to what I am ultimately looking for on David Goldberg's site (Gold Mountain Forge). http://www.goldmount.../sword013.html. His sword is a wakizashi, but I am thinking of making a short katana instead (26 1/2" nagasa, 11 1/2" tsuka, with ikubi-kissaki). I plan on kicking things off tomorrow, so wish me luck. (I know...pics or it didn't happen) ----------------------------- "By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second,
  9. I don't have grandios ideas of my being an expert by any means, but the thought bangin around in me cobwebs was to use high tech alloys and modern steels in the construction method to try and take advantage of the progression in modern metallurgical pursuits. Though not what I was particularly thinking...an example would be (san mai)...shingane (1040/45), hagane (L-6), kawagane (5160). The L-6 would give you the extreme resilience of a cutting edge while allowing traditional aesthetics, the 1040 would give you the softer core along the mune, and the 5160 would assist in flexability. Like I
  10. Thanks Jake, It came in today, so I'm gonna give it a go. As prompted by Dee, I'll take pics and upload some personal notes on the project throughout. I figure if I've asked the question to myself, surely others are as well. Wish me luck! Cheers!
  11. I have been researching the various construction techniques for katana and wanted to know what others think / prefer (name of technique and reasoning behind please) I am currently mulling over Kobuse and Han San Mai (Kobuse for ease of construction / Han San Mai for mutability and control of blade regions). One thought that keeps occurring to me is that in Kobuse construction, it would seem easier to introduce foreign particles into the weakest portion of the blade (the tip) during the sandwiching / welding process. I got my new shipment of steel in today. Thus being said, the bug
  12. Thanks for the information guys. I think I will weld some of it together with 1045 to offset a little (aka for fun). also thought about welding it with L-6 or 5160 and see what kind of blade becomes of it. Matt, thanks for the info. I was laboring under an excited misconception. Sam, I have the same kind of tan...I usually refer to it as flourescent (that's what I get for being a geek though)
  13. I have some Cru Forge V (CRU-WEAR) on order and was wondering if this type of steel is suitable for sword length blades (26+" in this particular case)? Here is the composition of it: carbon 1.05% Chromium 0.50% Vanadium 0.75% Manganese 0.75% Cheers!
  14. Tom, Beautiful work as always. You made a very big impression on me in the past. When I was 18 I came to see you at your shop in Springdale and you gave me a tour. You taught me the trick to twisting wire and explained to me about your knife making being a team effort between you and your wife. I thought that was so cool. Since our conversation I have followed your advise, moved to Tulsa, gotten a job as an IT manager and do my knifework strictly as a hobby (a paying one, but a hobby none the less). Thank you for taking the time to provide a young man with more fuel for a burni
  15. Great job Al. I'd proudly carry something like that into the field!
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