Wild Rose

I'm looking forward to seeing the progress on this one..... Super

Howdy Guys. Muchas gracias - first off I'm the Chuck of Wild Rose Trading Co. And yes Jake that is a great definition - there is something about the juxtaposition of intricate and rustic (along with "aged") that makes this my favorite style of work to do. The knife is one one of my collaborations with Gib Guignard of CactusForge (we offer our goods under the nom de plume CactusRose). Linda and I are working on the sheath for it right now (well she is I just took a break ). Here's the "brother" to this jawbone knife including sheath:

Howdy Katana- I'm not sure about stronger, but Osage is one of the most resistant woods known. It was used extensively for fence posts and as you said is a premier bow wood. Thank you for the compliment.

This Frontier Pipe Hawk is a collaboration - Handforged 5160 blade by Mark Williams of Williams Forge Assembly and decoration by Chuck & Linda Burrows of Wild Rose Trading Co. The story behind the style of this hawk...... An Eastern Pipe Hawk that traveled West. This pipe hawk with it's curly maple handle and brass collar/cap was originally made in the style of a late eighteenth century eastern Longhunter. The maple was "stained" in the traditional manner with Aqua Fortis and finished with an oil varnish used by the gunmakers of the period. Upon reaching his elder years the Longhunter passed it on to his off spring who  traveled west up the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains to become a Mountain Man. Over the years the hawk was decorated in the style of the Northern Plains Indians with a buffalo rawhide hand grip sewn on with elk sinew that has beaded end wraps. The fully decked out drop is made of smoke tan buckskin and is decorated with early period pony beads in both a geometric and floral style. Additional decoration includes bone beads, cornaline d'aleppo trade beads, copper beads, fringe, hawk bells, and tin cone tinklers. Drops such as this were frequently used on fighting hawks of the West and the added weight of the drop actually brings the whole thing into a perfect neutral balance. Here it is in it's "Eastern" Phase

My first love is and always will be Frontier knives, sheaths, and hawks, but this sheath came to mind a while back and when I saw this knife I knew they were made for each other. This is also the third sheath I put together for the upcoming Custom Knife Sheath how-to video from Center Cross Instructional Videos. The rattler skin inlays are sewn in at 10 stitches per inch with Barbour's fine quality 2 oz Hemp Thread. The sheath is fully lined with calfskin so that no stitching is exposed. The main seam and belt loop are sewn at 6 SPI with Barbour's 5 cord Linen Thread. The knife, a Bullnose Skinner/Hunter with forge finish is by a new/young maker and friend - Chris Daigle, of Houston, TX - here's his description of this very nice skinner - "pattern forged of 1084 (oil quenched, triple tempered). OAL is 9 1/2" and the blade is 4". The guard is 416SS, the spacer is buffalo horn, and the handle is Osage."

Any good brand name - Fuiji, Nikon, Canon Sony, etc in the 2-3 Megapixel range with a macro setting is all you really need for web work - computer monitors are only at 96dpi maximum resolution (higher resolution cameras in the 4mgp and above are best if you want to make high quality prints over 6" x 8") . Take your pictures at the highest quality setting available and then crop and tweak in a GOOD imaging software - for the money ($79.99) ArcSoft Photostudio is an excellent imaging software. It is capable of doing 90% of what Adobe PhotoShop v7.0+ will do and is MUCH easier to learn (I have both programs so have done direct comparisons). Save your original image as is - i.e. straight from the camera - and then tweak a copy for the web - save at 72-96dpi at no less than 60% quality (for jpg) - image size is best at no larger than 600 pixels for the largest dimension and the file size should be less than 85K when possible (pretty easy to do at that res and image size unless it's a complicated photo). A good lighting setup is also essential, although a good tent set up out of doors will do you great to get started. here'as a recent pic taken with an older Sony 3mgp camera. In fact a good used digicam can often be had - just KNOW who you're buying from and get a return guarantee of some sort. You might want to check out the Photography Forum on The Knifenetwork for more info - http://knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=25 Hope this helps.

Al are you starting out with hard pitch (technically rosin)? If soft cook it down SLOWLY, say an hour or so, and then let harden. if still too soft cook some more. I use a mix of 5 parts hard amber rosin, 1 part beeswax (hard yellow), and 1 part filler (usually saw dust or ground up charcoal). Some people use pure carnuba wax in place of the beeswax and that increases the metling/softening point. As to type of rosin: pine (colophony), pinon, fir, etc. I've used about five different kinds over the last 30 years or so and can't tell a spits worth of difference in the overall quality - main thing is it must be HARD but not brittle (the wax helps with the brittle). I normally use the Brewer's pitch available from James Townsend & sons - hard amber and clean - price $8.00 a pound - http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=373 Another source of good quality amber rosin is Bullrider's or violin bow rosin. BTW - Tai and I are good friends and I respect his opinon, but one of the main reasons he uses pinon is it is locally available for him. It is good, but again I find it not any better than any other readily available and well prepared rosin). In fact I would use it more, but unfortunately around my area of the southwest the pine beetle infestation has practically devastated the pinon pines here - besides the Vikings, Turks, and others who used pitch for hafting didn't have pinon pitch For a good reference on the various types of rosins see http://www.violins.on.ca/luthier/vargloss.html

Thanks guys - anybody who would like to link up with the NTM's site (which I am still working on - the new Gallery is almost finished) or for that matter has pictures they would like posted in the Galley please email me at wrtc@excite.com - I'm using that address so I don't get my business email swamped with extras stuff. Please use NTM Links Page Request as the subject For images please try to size NO LARGER than 640x480, jpg format, and file size no larger than 85kb. Or send me a URL from which I can down load the image. This is something I'm doing on the side so I can be slow at times so PLEASE be patient - between my knifemaking, leatherwork, and doing custom web sites I get swamped. I was also thinking of adding an NTM members page with links if your interested use NTM Members Link as the subject. This will be an adjunct to the NTM Map - send you Real Name, Your NT Name (if you have one - if not choose one ) and any link info you want to have posted - address, email, website, etc. BTW - Tai's been off lounging in the sun on the shores of the Gulf of California in Old Mexico - he should be back soon.... Super

Many states have enacted or are enacting new laws that will require you to use a "hands free" adapter for your cell phone while driving. I went to several communications stores and they all wanted around $50 for a quality headset with a boom microphone for my cell phone. Having a friend in the cell phone business, I talked with him and was able to come up with an alternative, from my local office supply store. These kits are compatible with ANY brand mobile phone and one size pretty much fits all. We tried them out on Erickson, Motorola, and Nokia phones and they worked perfectly. The price was really right (about $.15 each when bought in quantity). A photo is attached of my friend wearing this newest, most inexpensive, and user friendly "hands off" cell phone adapter. Take a look and you will see just how easy to use these are.

For what it's worth this is per Jerry Fisk on another forum - "Go with an air hammer. I have ran 4-5 types while researching which was best. Hands down it is the Sayha. Tom Clark sells it. $8300 delivered to your door."

Lin - check out this site - http://www.sanfranciscoknives.com/ You may want to also check out the book "Knifemakers of Old Sand Francisco" http://www.knifeworld.com/knifeworld/knifofoldsan.html MIchael Price and Will & Finck (you can see one of their dress "Bowies" here http://www.pbs.org/wgbh....2.html) were two of the premier makers of the mid 19th century.

Not exactly a tutorial but lots of info on How To here: http://www.americanlongrifles.com/american-longrifles-BBS-frame.htm And Here http://www.ckdforums.com/showthr....e+inlay Alan Eldridge, Fort Worth, Texas has an inlay kit for $50 bucks You can contact Alan via Gene at http://www.centercross.com/

Don- Osprey Guy on the ckdforums has a similar machine and use dental burrs - one place he recommended for new ones is http://www.lascodiamond.com/Dental/ You may want to check out his other posts or contact him direct - I know he wouldn't mind hearing from you - for other resources.

"What is Truth?" - Pontius Pilate......

Paul is right on - I've done a lot of refurbs on a lot of different grades of knives - el cheapo to high dollar - and if moisture can get to the tang it will. For solder try Tix - you can melt it with a hair dryer on high. An old fashioned sealer is pitch - evidence of it being used as a sealer has been found on many pieces including Viking swords.

Paul is right on - I've done a lot of refurbs on a lot of different grades of knives - el cehapo to hogh dollar - and if moisture can get to the tang it will. For solder try Tix - you can melt it with a hair dryer on high. An old fashioned sealer is pitch - evidence of it being used as a sealer has been found on many pieces including Viking swords.

The above makes a beautiful copper/red brown finish on iron/steel. Chlorine Bleach will etch steel without boiling just soak the steel in it or wrap a cloth soaked in bleach around the metal and put in a plastic bag for 15-30 minutes at a time. Scrub down with steel wool and then wash in boiling water with baking soda for 10 minutes to kill the reaction. This makes a very tough "French Gray" colored finish. (actually what you are doing is forming Ferric Chloride - chlorine + iron = ferric chloride)

For what it's worth - Moscow Hide and Fur are very good people to deal with - I buy from them frequently.

You know it's cold when after walking a mile or so you wipe your nose and break off half of your mustache! (North Idaho 1986 -20F with a wind chill of about -35) You know it's cold when you get woken up to the sound of your buddy yelling "INCOMING" and then hear explosions outside. (1975 central BC. At -70F, that was the lowest our thermometer went so it could have been colder, the residual moisture in trees freezes, expands and explodes the trees - this is what I believe JL was talking about re: the minus 70)

Here is a link with some hawk construction info from the book "American Indian Tomahawks" by Harold Peterson Hawks Page And here is a link to the Trade Axe and Tomahwks Collector's Assn web site - lots of images of originals. Collectors site Hope this helps.

I know some of you know our work from other forums but I'm sure some of you don't so I'll explain a bit - Gib Guignard of CactusForge and me, Chuck of Wild Rose Trading Company, started doing collaboration pieces about a year ago and boy have we been having fun! We both love American Frontier style knives so you might say this was a match made in .... well wherever. For various reasons I don't forge right now (well maybe again someday ), but I love filework and aging blades (Gib leaves a forge finish on the spine and then I do the etch). Even more I love doing grips - Â so it was a great boon when Gib started sending me blades to work with and then sheath (leather is my livelihood and in some ways my passion) Anyway Gib sent me this one a while back (he'd already hafted it - I added the filework, tacks, and butt cap) and when I opened up the package and saw that scimitar blade, Mike Fink - the infamous keelboatman - just popped into my head. Mike was the inspiration for the term "half man, half alligator". Davy Crockett first called Mike that and the term eventually came to be used for that rough and ready breed - The Keelboatman of the Mississippi , Ohio, and Missouri Rivers. In 1822 he went up the river with the Ashley Fur Brigade and wintered on the Yellowstone River - the inspiration for the idea behind the sheath. For more info on Mike check out the following link: http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/DETOC/sw/fink6.html Now for the important stuff: Here's the specs: Blade: 10" - Hand forged 5160 - forge finish on spine, aged, and fileworked (OAL is 15 1/2") Crossguard: Mild steel Hand forged Grip: Sambar Stag - aged, file worked, decoed with hand cut iron nails and brass tacks topped off with a pewter butt cap. Sheath: A "white man" vegtan sheath with a swivel belt loop that's been repaired/gussied up Indian style - Painted rawhide and brass tack repair, partially beaded throat wrap with a pewter cross. Edged with tin cone, copper bead, and horsehair dangles.

The only disadvantage I know of to using straight pitch (no wax or filler) is it tends to get brittle in cold weather. I've had friends who have had to reset their blades after using in cold temps where as with a filler and wax or tallow the problem never cropped up at least in my experience.

OK That makes sense. Warmed this stuff loosens up, but when it sets it REALLY grips! I've used a hair dryer to loosen up a couple of grips that went wrong, which for antler or wood is a better go than water.

Al - It's basically pitch. Try this - it's what I use and it works great. Not sure about the disassembly though? 5 parts pitch 1 part beeswax (tallow can replace this-available from your butcher) 1 part filler (wood dust, ash, metal dust, etc) Melt them all together and mix well. I then pour it off into old yogurt containers and let cool. Remelt for use. Best/safest way I've found to melt it is in an old crockpot - when melted it's pretty flammable so an open flame is not a good idea. It sets quickly so you have to move right along. Pitch (sold as Brewer's Pitch) and Beeswax are both available at James Townsend and Sons www.jastown.com First link is to pitch - $8.00 a pound http://www.jastown.com/bulk/bp-293.htm Second link is beeswax - best I've ever used - $7.00 a pound http://www.jastown.com/lantern/bw-290.htm I've used it to haft knives and also using spears and arrows and it works! The only thing is it can soften if you leave the item in a window or car trunk out in the hot sun. A couple of thread on the Outpost that discuss it as well. http://www.ckdforums.com/showthr....umber=2 http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12161 http://www.ckdforums.com/showthr....s+Resin BTW - 3 parts beeswax to one or two parts Pitch makes the best leather stitching wax of all - your stitches lock nice and tight - but beware the more pitch the "stickier" it gets and you can even lock the threads before they are pulled tight and then you'll have to cut the threads and start over. Hope this helps. PS - Got an idea that if the inside of the grips or the tang were oiled and then the pitch was added the disassembly thing might work?????? [dunno]

Tom- For me it isn't really any thing "bad" - I just don't like working with it for one - the fumes, etc. and two all of my work is "historical" and I just prefer natural materials whenever possible. About as modern I get in so far as materials is epoxy now and again (although I prefer pitch based cutler's resin for hafting knives) and Danish oil which contains polymer dryers. Lots of folks use super glue or CA and swear by it so it's just a personal thing.