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Ted Bouck

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Everything posted by Ted Bouck

  1. Totally sweet thx for posting. I like your work and your site.
  2. This is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. I have not looked at the markets for katana's for ~10 years since I got an L-6 cutter from HC. Is the market so flooded that no one needs this? or has the down turn really reduced the value of these fine items that much??
  3. I have one and use it all the time. Great hammer. Ted
  4. Great piece Petr!! I wish I had the cash right now, but don't. Good luck! Ted
  5. Hi Chris, My brief description was trying to state rolling the wire by pushing down and forward with the jig, while wire is perpendicular to the jig. Just like Petr is suggesting. Though I have yet to visual the knife edge and groove correctly yet. Jeffs third pdf has designs similar to what I had previously seen for the rolling fixture. Sincerely, Ted
  6. Beaded wire is on my list to learn how to do. I have seen a couple different methods , but not tried any yet. The easiest is to imagine taking a piece of say 16 gage steel sheel and putting a 60 degree chamfer on one side. Do same on another piece. Now take those 2 pieces and fix together so the 2 chamfers are opposite so they create an inverted V shape. Use this tool to "roll" the beads onto the wire. Hope this helps, Thx for the pics, and I hope we all get better info than I just supplied!! Ted Bouck
  7. Totally sweet!! Thx guys for the tag team on the demo with pics!! Now I have another project on the list! Best Regards, Ted
  8. Very well done Jim!! Keep um comin, Ted
  9. How much is he asking? And can you be a little more specific about where in "Mid- Michigan"?? Thx, Ted
  10. OMG I want.... must be strong...... It's killing me that someone else will own this Jim, I hope she goes to a good home. One in which the noblest of uses is she put. ;0) Is this a single or double handed axe? Cheers! Ted
  11. I recommend Jim Austin for any and all Danish axes!! Do a search for my review of a battle dane axe I got from Jim on the "Show and Tell" forum. Respectfully submitted, Ted Bouck
  12. Greetings to everyone, I know many of you have been following Jim Austin's Viking Axe making tutorials under the History forum. I had the opportunity to purchase one of his Viking war axes, and this is a review of the Axe and the transaction. [To the moderator, if this review should be somewhere else, I apologize, and please move.] First go to my Flickr site for pictures of the axe: http://www.flickr.com/photos/eldesar See Dane axe set. Next a description of the axe - The Dane Axe has an edge length of 7.75" and is 8.375" from the BACK of the poll to the edge. From the
  13. Wonderful horn work Petr, and brilliant process to get silver rim added with out rivets!! Do you feel this process would work for a longer design? [length torward tip] Also, is the Ringerik dragon your own casting? Elegant & Simple = powerful. Regards, Ted
  14. Very interesting work Jim! A friend and I built 2 Type L axes a couple years ago using a "similar" idea that was posted by an Aussie at the time. The split main body idea was not used, just the piece that wrapped around to form the eye that was over welded to the "body" of the axe. No carbon edge or anything, just forge welded 1018 to 1018 and then some MIG clean up welds with lots of grinding, prior to chase work and braze fill to create the raven! See Cheers, Ted
  15. Hi Matthew, I just wanted to say thanks again to you and all the Master's on this forum for the inlay lessons. I completed some trials yesterday, see pics at my flickr site under the Inlay set, and it turned out ok. [The 2 visible grooves are bad trials, the four better grooves have brass and copper inlay, plus the 2 with copper just hammered in and left as a "Coating". I did the initial groove and then cross chiseled the dove into the groove using a wider, sharp graver. This worked good, but I am wondering since the cross chiseling lifts the groove during the cut that it might all be
  16. Jim, I believe the extra mass at the edge would provide not only extra power to the stroke, but as you say also keep the edge stronger. Ted
  17. Organic work as always Petr! Is it the picture, or does the blade have a soft curve [convex] from bolster to point? It looks that the poit drops slightly lower than hilt. Thx, Ted ps- The hasp plate on chest is a great idea too!!
  18. Ok, this is the Type L axe of awesomeness!! Jim, thanks for your continued tutorials. I need to start putting that "Dane Axe Training video" together!! [Meaning on how to use one in battle! :0)] Best Regards, Ted
  19. Kevin, I made the copper bowl, than had it silver plated and gifted to a Norse friend. I am working my way up to chasing a Lilla valla "style" bowl. see http://www.vikinganswerlady.com/drink.shtml for the Lilla vall bowl and further down for 2 of the Terslev hoard bowls. I chased in a raven on a bowl I made for myself, and on this newest one I did the punch work on the inside bottom, and around the top of circ. on outside of bowl. Using .040" thick, copper. Bob, Thx. The grill is a reproduction I did this summer of the Mastermyr Fire grid. I did the links with twists and ta
  20. Cool work. What thickness of CRS? 16 gage? Ted
  21. Thx Bob. Yes that is the key for the barrel lock. See for more pics. My wife and I do some Viking reenactment, among other things. Best Regards, Ted PS- I checked out your site, very nice. Very clean and the tutorials are great!
  22. Everyone on this forum is very helpful and super cool. I want to thank you all for your advice and inspiration. I don't do many knives yet, but still wanted to share some of my recent projects. I did all the ironwork on the norse rowing chest, and made the Rus Temple rings and Gotlandic Tweezers for my wife for xmas. The smaller of the 2 seaxs will be ground and then I will attempt my first inlay on the flat of a blade. Best Regards, Happy Holidays, Ted
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