Glenn Moulton

Very nice Bruce!

Neat pic James.Was that a grist mill?

Cool! Bring your cutter. Glenn

http://www.ocmulgeeblacksmiths.org/symposium1008.shtml October 11th and 12th 2008 Located at Liberty Hill Forge 1016 Van Buren Road Barnesville GA. 30204 Demonstrator: Master Bladesmith Jim Batson This years featured demonstrator will be Dr. James Batson. Dr. Batson an ABS Mastersmith, past president of the ABS, past president of ABANA, founder of the Alabama Forge Council, published author and Bowie knife historian will lecture and demonstrate bowie knife design and history, as well as heat treating and knife steel metallurgy. Bring your knife and compete in the cutting competition. Knife must be attached to wrist with a thong. Prizes will be awarded to winner of cutting competition. * Bring examples of your work for show and tell * Participate in the Iron-in-the-Hat * Hands on bladesmith instruction * Tailgate tool sales and knifemaking supplies welcome * Bring your knives to sell * Anvil shoot * Cutting competition Contacts Dewayne Frost: 770-358-1426 0r 770-584-1805 (cell) email lbrtyhill@aol.com Buster Grubbs: 478-743-4244 or email srforge@bellsouth.net Accommodations Free on site primitive camping with primitive showers and fire wood Sun Inn 878 Hwy. 341 south Barnesville, GA 770-358-1700 toll free 866-978-6466 Country Hearth Inn 648 Hwy. 341 south Barnesville, GA. 770-358-0967 toll free 877-268-0967 High Falls State Park has full RV hook-ups located approx. nine miles from hammer-in Complimentary coffee and sweets Saturday morning and Saturday lunch Public welcome there is no registration fee I hope to see some of you guys there. Glenn

Well done Raymond!

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/msds.asp Contact Harris and see what they recommend.Ive used a lot of their products and they might help you.I'm thinking for something to give you the color you want will take a higher heat range to flow than the temper of the blade can withstand.

I found this a while back.The guy is etching brass but gives a good description of using the laser toner. etching with laser toner

Did the blade through harden?Hardened steel tends to etch darker than non hardened.Just curious if it was clayed and hardened underneath the coating.

Hi again Bruce.I guess there are many ways to skin a cat.The handle is pinned onto the frame and nearly finished before the tang is seated into it.I used epoxy and set one pin after it had cured.I guess they may have used hide glue or pitch in the day.You need just a slight amount of play in the tang to frame fit to make sure it aligns square against the guard and straight with the blade.I made a new filing jig with a wide platform and got away from the two pieces of flat bar I used to use.It makes a world of difference in getting things square.Hope this helps.

Thanks again guys, most specially you Don.You are the caliber most check their chambers with.I hope to continue to learn as everyone of you do.I spoke with the good doctor this evening and another thing that makes him special is I found he has traveled 1800 miles this week teaching.At 7PM he was in a room full of folks learning engraving.I found out that's why he had not seen the pic I sent him to hear his critique. Guy, I hope you can make the next one.Most likely it will be sheathes to carry the blades in.

Thanks guys.I am taking a liking to the style.Ive got to work on that dirk like "evil" look.Jim has a way to make his bowies and dirks yell the word evil. The curly maple was a gift from Randy Skidmore, a great friend he is.The wood was stabilized with nelsonite in the vacuum chamber.I really like how it works and finishes up. Bruce, sorry for the illusion.That plunge is the guard reflecting off the blade.The tang has the same bevels and cross section as the blade.Make sure you have the finish you want on the blade before fitting the guard.Any work there later will make a nice fit sloppy real quick.The tang is tapered in both directions from the shoulders to the end.The tang at the guard is rounded top and bottom.Mike the thickness of the tang at the thickest and thinnest areas.This will tell you the size bits to drill the top and bottom of your slot.Mike the width of the tang and subtract half the diameters of the drill bit sizes and that's where you drill your holes.A numbered drill set is most helpful.Select one a thousandths or two under. (Make sure your shoulders on the blade are square because the blade is tapered to the tip as well.)Once the holes are drilled a jewelers saw is used to cut out the slot. Use needle files and file the slot to fit.I like a bump on fit and have started soldering the guards on. The better the fit the less cleanup.

It uses infrared.They have become very popular with welding inspectors checking preheat temps prior to welding.Specially the over weight ones who find it hard to bend over and use the tried and proved tempstix.

I had the opportunity to spend a great weekend with Jim along with several more guys from our local group a while back.It was a very busy weekend as he was showing us framed handles, how to fit the guards and such.We all started out forging blades intending to finish them but I helped a late comer forge his first and finally got the one I started home and finished.Ive done another since and thought I'd show you guys.The later is the one I started at Jim's. Jim is a one of a kind guy.I thank Don for introducing us!

Cool Guy! I am happy to see you getting into the shop.

The yellow wire was added to a black wire to lengthen it. Ive also made a etching block from a carbon motor brush and felt for a pad since then.Cuts the corrosion you get on the wire.